Starter Circuit
Note. The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
Scheme 2
- Remove the fuel pump relay from the fuse box.
- With the shift lever in N or P (A/T) or clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to "START" If the starter normally cranks the engine, starting system is OK. If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to next step. If it won't disengage from the ring gear when you release key, check for the following until you find the cause. Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction. Dirty pinion gear or damaged overrunning clutch.
- Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, battery negative cable connected to the body, engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try starting the engine again. If the starter cranks normally the engine, repairing the loose connection repaired the problem. The starting system is now OK. If the starter still does not crank the engine, go to next step.
- Disconnect the connector from the S-terminal of solenoid. Connect a jumper wire from the B-terminal of solenoid to the S-terminal of solenoid. If the starter cranks the engine, go to next step. If the starter still does not crank the engine, remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.
- Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit. Check the wire and connectors between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch, and between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter. Check the ignition switch (Refer to «IGNITION SYSTEM»(ref-380253-S10392308062010121800000) ). Check the transaxle range switch connector or ignition lock switch connector. Inspect the starter relay.
Scheme 3
- Disconnect the field coil wire from the M-terminal of solenoid switch.
- Connect a 12 V battery between S-terminal and the starter body.
- Connect the field coil wire to the M-terminal. CAUTION: This test must be performed quickly (in less than 10 seconds) to prevent the coil from burning.
- If the pinion moves out, the pull-in coil of solenoid is working properly. If the pinion does not move, replace the solenoid.
- Disconnect the field coil wire from the M-terminal.
- If the pinion has moved out, the hold-in coil of the solenoid is working properly. If the pinion moves in, replace the solenoid.
Scheme 4
- Place the starter motor in a vise equipped with soft jaws and connect a fully-charged 12-volt battery to starter motor as follows.
- Connect a test ammeter (100-ampere scale) and carbon pile rheostat as shown in the illustration.
- Connect a voltmeter (15-volt scale) across starter motor.
- Rotate carbon pile to the off position.
- Connect the battery cable from battery's negative post to the starter motor body.
- Adjust until battery voltage shown on the voltmeter reads 11 volts.
- Confirm that the maximum amperage is within the specifications and that the starter motor turns smoothly and freely. Current : 60A max Speed : 5000 RPM
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- Disconnect the battery negative cable.
- Remove the air cleaner assembly.
- Remove the shift cable and bracket. (M/T)
- Disconnect the starter cable (A) from the B terminal (B) on the solenoid (C), then disconnect the connector (D) from the S terminal (E).
- Remove the 2 bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter.
- Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Connect the battery negative cable to the battery.
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- Disconnect the M-terminal (A) on the magnet switch assembly (B).
- After loosening the 2 screws (A), detach the magnet switch assembly (B).
- Loosen the brush holder mounting screw (A) and through bolts (B).
- Remove the rear bracket (A) and brush holder assembly (B).
- Remove the yoke (A) and armature (B).
- Remove the, lever plate (A) and packing (B).
- Remove the overrunning clutch (A) and lever (B).
- Press the stop ring (A) using a socket (B).
- After removing the stopper (A) using stopper pliers (B).
- Remove the stopper (A), stop ring (B), overrunning clutch (C) and armature (D).
- Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. NOTE: Using a suitable pulling tool (A), pull the overrunning clutch stop ring (B) over the stopper (C).
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- Remove the starter.
- Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure.
- Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
- Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface with emery cloth or a lathe within the following specifications, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).
- Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator diameter Standard (New) : 29.3 ~ 29.4 mm (1.1535 ~ 1.1575 in)
- Measure the commutator (A) runout. If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator run out is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator runout Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.) max Service limit: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in.)
- Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C) between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or v-shaped (D). Commutator mica depth Standard (New) : 0.4 ~ 1.0 mm (0.0157 ~ 0.0394 in.) Limit : 0.2 mm (0.0079 in.)
- Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If an open circuit exists between any segments, replace the armature.
- Check with an ohmmeter that no continuity exists between the commutator (A) and armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and armature shaft (C). If continuity exists, replace the armature.
Starter Brush
Brushes that are worm out, or oil-soaked, should be replaced.
Scheme 28
Note. To seat new brushes, slip a strip of #500 or #600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly rotate the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
Scheme 29
- Check that there is no continuity between the (+) brush holder (A) and (-) brush holder (B). If there is no continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. NOTE: Use a pipe (C) of suitable size for the brushes not to get removed from the brush holder.
Scheme 30
- Slide the overrunning clutch along the shaft. Replace it if does not slide smoothly.
- Rotate the overrunning clutch both ways. Does it lock in one direction and rotate smoothly in reverse? If it does not lock in either direction of it locks in both directions, replace it.
- If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly. (the gear is not available separately). Check the condition of the flywheel or torque converter ring gear if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged.
Cleaning
- Do not immerse parts in cleaning solvent. Immersing the yoke assembly and/or armature will damage the insulation. Wipe these parts with a cloth only.
- Do not immerse the drive unit in cleaning solvent. The overrun clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and solvent will wash lubrication from the clutch.
- The drive unit may be cleaned with a brush moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a cloth.
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- Remove the fuse box cover.
- Remove the starter relay (A).
- Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between each terminal. CONTINUITY REFERENCE CHART Terminal Continuity 30 - 87 NO 85 - 86 YES
- Apply 12 V to terminal 85 and ground to terminal 86. Check for continuity between terminals 30 and 87.
- If there is no continuity, replace the starter relay.
- Install the starter relay.
- Install the fuse box cover.