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Starting System: Component Locations Honda Pilot II

Starter 28 illustrations ~2317 words

Special Tools Required

Alternator, Regulator, Battery & Starter Tester OTC3131

*Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857

Note. Air temperature must be between 59 and 100°F (15 and 38°C) during this procedure. After the inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from functioning. The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

Scheme 4

Scheme 4: Special Tools Required

Scheme 5

Scheme 5
  1. Remove the air intake duct (see step 1 on «FRONT BULKHEAD COVER REPLACEMENT»(ref-333593-S12466888562009072100000) ).
  2. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery & starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown below. NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.
  3. Do the BATTERY TEST. Does the display indicates GOOD or GOOD, LOW CHARGE? YES - The battery is OK. Go to step 4 . NO - If the display indicate BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest. If the display indicate CHARGE & RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.
  4. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 on «GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION»(ref-333557-S00859668402009072100000) ).
  5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
  6. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the PCM. If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(ref-333558-S02093989162009072100000) ).
  7. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION with the HDS.
  8. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in N or P, turn the ignition switch to START (III) to crank the engine. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 15 . NO - Go to step 9 .
  9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
  10. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 15 . NO - Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action: • If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 11 . If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 13 . If the starter does not disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following: Starter solenoid and switch malfunction Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch Damaged torque converter ring gear
  11. Make sure the shift lever is in N or P, then disconnect the connector (A) from the starter S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal.
  12. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit: NOTE: After the open circuit or high resistance in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 15 . A blown STS (7.5 A) fuse in the auxiliary under dash fuse holder located below the under-dash fuse/relay box. A blown ST RLD (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the WHT wire and connectors between the under-hood fuse/relay box, starter cut relay 1 and the ignition switch. Check for an open or short in the GRN wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the PCM. Check for an open or short in the BRN wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2. Check for an open or short in the WHT wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between the starter cut relay 2 and the starter. Check for an open or short in the YEL wire, LT BLU wire, and connectors between the ignition switch and the PCM. Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the PCM, the starter cut relay 1, and the starter cut relay 2. Check for an open or short in the BLU/WHT wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2. Check for an open or short in the BLU wire, BLU/WHT wire, and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the transmission range switch. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and body ground (G101). Check for a faulty ignition switch (see «TEST»(ref-333610-S38084934182009072100000) ). Check for a faulty transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(ref-333568-S26896797272009072100000) ). Check for a faulty starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2 (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(ref-333609-S14631099402009072100000) ).
  13. Do the STARTING TEST with the alternator, regulator, battery & starter tester. NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing. Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.0 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 375 A ? YES - Go to step 14 . NO - Replace the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(ref-333545-S40971130632009072100000) ), or remove and disassemble it (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(ref-333545-S08017927392009072100000) ), and check for these problems: • Drag in the starter armature Shorted armature winding Excessive drag in the engine Open circuit in the starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in the starter brushes Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear Faulty overrunning clutch
  14. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(ref-333545-S40971130632009072100000) ), and inspect its drive gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
  15. Select PCM reset in the PGM-FI INSPECTION to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.

Scheme 6

Scheme 6: Starter Solenoid Test
  1. Remove the air intake duct (see step 1 on «FRONT BULKHEAD COVER REPLACEMENT»(ref-333593-S12466888562009072100000) ).
  2. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(ref-333608-S42868124562009072100000) ).
  3. Remove the battery base (see step 9 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-333550-S08423022402009072100000) ).
  4. Remove the harness clamp (A), then disconnect the positive starter cable (B), the motor wire (C), and the S terminal connector (D) from the starter.
  5. Check the hold-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the armature housing (ground). There should be continuity. If there is continuity/go to step 6. If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid.
  6. Check the pull-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the M terminal. There should be continuity. If there is continuity/the solenoid is OK. If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid.
  7. Install the wire and the connector in the reverse order of removal.
  8. Install the battery base (see step 56 on «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(ref-333550-S05584759992009072100000) ).
  9. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(ref-333608-S42868124562009072100000) ).
  10. Install the air intake duct (see «FRONT BULKHEAD COVER REPLACEMENT»(ref-333593-S12466888562009072100000) ).

Scheme 7

Scheme 7: Starter Performance Test

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Scheme 10

Scheme 10
  1. Remove the starter. (see «Removal»(ref-333545-S09609249892009072100000) ).
  2. Clamp the starter firmly in a vise.
  3. Disconnect the motor wire from the M terminal.
  4. Make the connections for this test using the thickest (gauge) wire possible (preferably the same gauge as used on the vehicle). NOTE: To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds.
  5. Connect the battery as shown below. Make sure you disconnect the starter motor wire from the M terminal. If the starter pinion moves out, it is working properly.
  6. Disconnect the battery from the M terminal. If the pinion does not retract, the hold-in coil of the solenoid is working properly.
  7. Disconnect the battery from the starter body as shown below. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working properly.
  8. Reconnect the motor wire to the M terminal.
  9. Connect the starter to the battery as shown below, and confirm that the motor runs.
  10. If the electric current meets the specification when the battery voltage is at 11.5 V, the starter is working properly. Specification Electric Current: 90 A

Scheme 11

Scheme 11: Removal
  1. Remove the air intake duct (see step 1 on «FRONT BULKHEAD COVER REPLACEMENT»(ref-333593-S12466888562009072100000) ).
  2. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(ref-333608-S42868124562009072100000) ).
  3. Remove the battery base (see step 9 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-333550-S08423022402009072100000) ).
  4. Remove the harness clamp (A), then disconnect the positive starter cable (B) and the S terminal connector (C) from the starter.
  5. Remove the lower radiator hose bracket (D) and the dipstick (E).
  6. Remove the two bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter.

Scheme 12

Scheme 12: Installation
  1. Install the starter using a new gasket, then install the lower radiator hose bracket (A) and the dipstick (B). NOTE: Always use a new gasket. (Scheme 13): Identifying Lower Radiator Hose Bracket & Dipstick With Torque Specifications
  2. Install the lower radiator hose bracket (B) and the dipstick.(C)
  3. Connect the positive starter cable (D) and the S terminal connector (E) to the starter, then install the harness clamp (F). Make sure the crimped side of the ring terminal faces away from the starter when you connect it.
  4. Install the battery base (see step 56 on «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(ref-333550-S05584759992009072100000) ).
  5. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(ref-333608-S42868124562009072100000) ).
  6. Install the air intake duct (see «FRONT BULKHEAD COVER REPLACEMENT»(ref-333593-S12466888562009072100000) ).
  7. Start the engine to make sure the starter works properly.

Scheme 13

Scheme 13: Starter Overhaul

Brush Holder Removal

Note. Disassemble the starter as shown in the Exploded View.

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Scheme 31

Scheme 31
  1. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(ref-333545-S40971130632009072100000) ).
  2. Disconnect the motor wire from the M terminal (see «STARTER SOLENOID TEST»(ref-333545-S20625543902009072100000) ), and remove the end cover.
  3. Pry back each brush spring with a screwdriver, then position the brush on the brush holder about halfway out of its holder. Release the spring to hold it in place. (Scheme 15): Identifying Screw Driver and Brush Spring
  4. Remove the brush holder assembly (A). Armature Inspection and Test
  5. Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure in the Exploded View.
  6. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
  7. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 8, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).
  8. Check the commutator diameter with digital caliper or dial type caliper. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (New): 28.9-29.0 mm (1.38-1.142 in) Service Limit: 28.0 mm (1.102 in)
  9. Measure the commutator (A) runout. If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Runout Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.0008 in) max. Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in)
  10. Use the digital or dial caliper to check the mica depth (A). If the mica is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New): 0.50-0.90 mm (0.00197-0.0354 in) Service Limit: 0.20 mm (0.0079 in) (Scheme 20): Cutting Away All Mica Between Commutator Segments
  11. Use an ohmeter to check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is an open circuit between any segments, replace the armature.
  12. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature. (Scheme 22): Identifying Armature and Hacksaw blade
  13. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and the armature shaft (C). If there is continuity, replace the armature.
  14. Slide the overrunning clutch (A) along the shaft. Replace it if it does not slide smoothly.
  15. Hold the overrunning clutch (A), and turn the drive gear (B) in the direction shown to make sure it turns freely. Also make sure the drive gear locks in the opposite direction. If it does not lock, replace the overrunning clutch assembly.
  16. If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. Check the condition of the torque converter ring gear. Replace it if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged.
  17. Measure the brush length. If it is shorter than the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly Brush Length Standard (New): 15.0-16.0 mm (0.591-0.630 in) Service Limit: 9.0 mm (0.354 in)
  18. Check for continuity between the (+) brush holders (A) and the (-) brush holders (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly.
  19. Insert the brush (A) into the brush holder, and bring the brush into contact with the commutator, then attach a spring scale (B) to the spring (C). Measure the spring tension at the moment the spring lifts off the brush. If it is not within the standard, replace the brush holder assembly. Standard (New): 22.6-27.26 N (2.27-2.78 kgf, 5.00-6.13 lbf)
  20. Check the planetary gears (A) and internal ring gear (B). Replace them if they are worn or damaged.
  21. Install the armature housing (A) and the armature (B) by aligning the slotted point (C) to the projection (D).
  22. Pry back each brush spring with a screwdriver, then position the brush on the brush holder about halfway out of its holder. Release the spring to hold it in place. NOTE: To seat the new brushes. Slip a strip of #500 or #600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly turn the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
  23. Install the brush holder assembly. Next pry back each brush spring again, and push each brush down until it seats against the commutator, then release the spring against the end of the brush.
  24. Install the end cover to retain the brush holder.
  25. Install the starter (see «Installation»(ref-333545-S02250048922009072100000) )