Glass: Removal & Installation — Honda Insight ZE2 рестайлинг (2011-2014)

Windshield Replacement

Note. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with a piano wire. Use seat covers to avoid damaging the seats. Glass adhesive can be efficiently cut with a commercially available auto glass tool. See the tool manufacturer's instructions for details.

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Scheme 30: Windshield Replacement

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Remove these items: Hood hinge cover (see «COWL COVER REPLACEMENT»(ref-513174-S22314343132012110700000) ) Rearview mirror (see «REARVIEW MIRROR REPLACEMENT»(ref-513205-S14738049352012110700000) ) A-pillar trims, both sides (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - PILLAR AREAS»(ref-513199-S03416100202012110700000) ) Roof moldings, both sides (see «ROOF MOLDING REPLACEMENT»(ref-513174-S40381082082012110700000) )
Remove the windshield molding (A) from the edge of the windshield (B), If necessary, cut the windshield molding with a utility knife.
If the old windshield will be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the windshield and the body with a grease pencil.
Pull down the front area of the headliner (see «HEADLINER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(ref-513199-S29276019462012110700000) ). Take care not to bend the headliner excessively, or you may crease or break it.
Apply protective tape along the edge of the dashboard and the body. Make a hole with an awl through the rubber dam and the adhesive from Inside the vehicle at a corner of the windshield. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the windshield (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body and dashboard. Carefully cut through the rubber dam and the adhesive (C) around the entire windshield. Cutting positions
Carefully remove the windshield.
Scrape smooth the old adhesive with a knife until there is a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire windshield opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. Remove the rubber dams and the upper clips from the body.
Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened in isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the clean surface.
If you are reinstalling the old windshield, scrape off all of the old adhesive, the upper clips and the rubber dams from the windshield with a putty knife. Clean the bonding surfaces on the inside face and the edge of the windshield with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
Apply glass primer to the upper clips mounting areas on the windshield (B), and let it dry. Remove the adhesive backing and attach the rubber dams A, rubber dam (D), rubber dams C and the upper clips (E) to the inside of the windshield as shown: Make sure the rubber dams and the upper clips line up with the alignment marks (F). Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied.
Attach a new windshield molding (A) with adhesive tape (B) to the edge of the windshield (C): Make sure each corner of the molding lines up with the ones of the windshield. Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied.
Set the windshield (A) in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (B) across the windshield and the body with a grease pencil at the four points shown. Make sure the upper clips (C) contact with the edge of the body holes. Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied.
Remove the windshield.
Apply a light coat of glass primer to the windshield (A) along the edge of the windshield molding (B) and the rubber dams (C) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: With the printed dots (D) on the windshield as a guide, apply glass primer to the bottom (E) of the windshield. Apply glass primer to the molding. Do not apply body primer to the windshield, and do not mix up the body primer applicators and the glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the windshield properly, causing a leak after the windshield is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surface.
Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where the new adhesive will be applied. Let the body primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body primer applicators and the glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. Cover the dashboard before applying the primer.
Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown.
Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a continuous bead of adhesive (A) around the windshield (B) along the edge of the rubber dams (C) and the windshield molding (D) as shown: NOTE: Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner. Apply glass primer to the bottom (E) of the windshield. Apply glass primer to the molding.
Hold the windshield with suction cups over the opening, align it with the alignment marks made in step 13 , and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the windshield until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until the adhesive is dry.
Remove the excess adhesive with a putty knife or a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
Wait at least an hour for the adhesive to dry, then spray water over the windshield and check for leaks. Mark leaking areas, and let the windshield dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after windshield installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).

Upper Rear Window Replacement

Special Tools Required

KTC Trim Tool Set SOJATP2014*

*Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program, 888-424-6857

Note. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with piano wire. Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. Glass adhesive can be efficiently cut with a commercially available auto glass tool. See the tool manufacturer's instructions for details. Do not damage the upper rear window defogger grid lines and the terminals. Use glass adhesive set P/N 08C73-X0230N Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when removing components.

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Scheme 40: Upper Rear Window Replacement

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Remove these items: Hatch side trims, both sides (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - HATCH AREAS»(ref-513199-S22635466722012110700000) ) Hatch spoiler (see «HATCH SPOILER REPLACEMENT»(ref-513174-S36307689412012110700000) ) Rear window wiper motor (see «INSTALLATION»(ref-513201-S14561094042012110700000) )
Remove the upper seal (A) from the edge of the upper rear window. If necessary, cut the upper seal with a utility knife.
Remove the antenna terminal cover (A). Carefully insert the appropriate trim tool. Use the trim tool (B) to gently pry the cover up partially to detach the hooks (C, D), then rotate the cover, and detach the hook (E).
Disconnect the hatch ground connector (A) and the upper rear window defogger connectors (B).
Pull the upper rear window molding (A), then remove it.
If the old upper rear window will be reinstalled, make alignment marks (A) across the glass and the body with a grease pencil.
Apply protective tape along the inside and the outside edges of the hatch. Make a hole with an awl through the adhesive from inside the vehicle at a corner area of the upper rear window. Push the piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the upper rear window (B) as possible to prevent damage to the hatch, and carefully cut through the adhesive (C) around the entire upper rear window. Cutting positions
Carefully remove the upper rear window.
Scrape smooth the old adhesive with a knife until there is a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire upper rear window opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. Remove the fasteners from the hatch.
Clean the hatch bonding surface with a sponge dampened in isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease and water from getting on the surface.
If you are reinstalling the old upper rear window, scrape off all of the old adhesive, the fasteners and the rubber dams from the upper rear window. Clean the bonding surface on the inside face and the edge of the upper rear window with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
Attach a new upper seal (A) with adhesive tape along the upper edge of the upper rear window (B): Before installing the upper seal, apply primer to the area where its adhesive tape will be stuck in inside face of the upper rear window. Be sure the upper seal with the alignment marks (C) on the upper edge of the upper rear window.
Attach a new rubber dam A, B, C and the fasteners (D, E) with the adhesive tape to the inside face of the upper rear window (F) as shown: Before installing the rubber dams and the fasteners, apply primer to the area where the adhesive tape will be stuck to the inside face of the upper rear window. Make sure the rubber dams and the fasteners align with the alignment marks (G). Be careful not to touch the upper rear window where adhesive will be applied.
Attach the fasteners (A, B) to the hatch as shown.
Set the upper rear window (A) in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (B) across the upper rear window and the body with a grease pencil at the four points shown. Make sure the fasteners (C) contact with the edge of body hole. Be careful not to touch the upper rear window where the adhesive will be applied.
Remove the upper rear window.
Apply a light coat of glass primer to the upper rear window (A) along the edge of the rubber dams (B) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Apply the glass primer to both corner areas of the upper rear window using the printed dots (C) on the upper rear window as a guide. Do not apply body primer to the upper rear window, and do not mix up the body primer applicators and the glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the upper rear window properly, causing a leak after the upper rear window is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces.
Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where new adhesive will be applied. Let the primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body primer applicators and the glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown.
Pack adhesive into the cartridge without air pockets to ensure continuous delivery. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a continuous bead of adhesive (A) to the upper rear window (B) along the edge of the rubber dams (C) as shown: Use the printed dots (D) on the upper rear window as a guide, apply the adhesive to both side areas of the upper rear window. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
Hold the upper rear window with suction cups over the opening, align it with the alignment marks you made in step 16 , and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the upper rear window until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until the adhesive is dry.
Remove the excess adhesive with a putty knife or a shop towel dampened in isopropyl alcohol.
Wait at least an hour for the adhesive to dry, then spray water over the upper rear window and check for leaks. Mark the leaking areas, let the upper rear window dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after the upper rear window installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).

Lower Rear Window Replacement

Note. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with piano wire. Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surface. Glass adhesive can be efficiently cut with a commercially available auto glass tool. See the tool manufacturer's instructions for details. Do not damage the lower rear window defogger grid lines and terminals. Use glass adhesive set P/N 08C73-X0230N

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Scheme 55: Lower Rear Window Replacement

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Remove these items: Hatch lower trim panel (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - HATCH AREAS»(ref-513199-S22635466722012110700000) ) Hatch spoiler (see «HATCH SPOILER REPLACEMENT»(ref-513174-S36307689412012110700000) ) Rear license trim (see «REAR LICENSE TRIM REPLACEMENT»(ref-513174-S11600285882012110700000) )
Remove the rubber dam B from the edge of the lower rear window (A). If necessary, cut off the rubber dam with a utility knife.
Disconnect the lower rear window defogger connectors (A).
Apply protective tape along the inside and outside edges of the hatch. Make holes with an awl through the upper and lower adhesive from inside the vehicle at 300 mm (11.81 in) from both sides of the lower rear window.
Pass the piano wire (A) through the lower side of the adhesive (B) Push the piano wire through the hole from outside the vehicle. Push the piano wire between the clip bases (C) and the adhesive in three places. Push the piano wire out through the hole from inside the vehicle, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
Hold a piece of wood, and with a helper on the other side, pull back the piano wire (A) to carefully cut through the adhesive.
Pass the piano wire (A) through the upper side of the adhesive (B). Push the piano wire through the hole from outside the vehicle. Push the piano wire between the fastener (C) and the adhesive (D) in three places. Push the piano wire out through the hole from inside the vehicle, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
Hold a piece of wood, and with a helper on the other side, pull back the piano wire (A) to carefully cut through the entire lower rear window adhesive.
Detach the clips that hold the lower rear window (A), then carefully remove the lower rear window.
Remove the seal from the upper edge of the lower rear window.
Scrape smooth the old adhesive with a putty knife until there is a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire lower rear window opening flange. NOTE: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding.
Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened in isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the surface.
If the clips (A) and the fastener (B) are damaged or stress-whitened, replace them with new ones.
If the old window will be reinstalled, scrape off all of the old adhesive, the clips and the rubber dams from the lower rear window with a putty knife. Clean the bonding surfaces on the inside face and the edge of the lower rear window with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
Remove the adhesive backing, and attach the rubber dam A, the fastener (B) and the clips (C) to the inside face of the window (D) as shown: Make sure the rubber dam, the fastener and the clips line up with the alignment marks (E). Be careful not to touch the lower rear window where adhesive will be applied.
Attach the lower rubber dam B with adhesive tape to the upper edge of the lower rear window (A). Be careful not to touch the lower rear window where adhesive will be applied.
Apply a light coat of glass primer around the edge of to the lower rear window (A) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Apply glass primer to the bottom (B) of the lower rear window using the printed dots (C) on the lower rear window as a guide. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the lower rear window properly, causing a leak after the lower rear window is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surface.
Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where new adhesive will be applied. Let the body primer dry for at least 10 minutes. Do not apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body primer applicators and the glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown.
Pack adhesive into the cartridge without air pockets to ensure continuous delivery. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a continuous bead of adhesive (A) to the lower rear window (B) along the edge of the rubber dams (C) as shown: Use the printed dots (D) on the lower rear window as a guide, apply the adhesive to both side areas of the lower rear window. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
Hold the lower rear window with suction cups over the opening, align the clip, and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the lower rear window until its clips snap into place securely and its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until the adhesive is dry.
Remove the excess adhesive with a putty knife or a shop towel dampened in isopropyl alcohol.
Wait at least an hour for the adhesive to dry, then spray water over the lower rear window and check for leaks. Mark the leaking areas, let the lower rear window dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after the lower rear window installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).

Antenna Terminal Base Replacement