Starting System: Component Locations Honda Fit GE

Special Tools Required

Alternator, Regulator, Battery & Starter tester OTC3131 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857

Note. Air temperature must be within 59-100°F (15-38°C) during this procedure. After this inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating. The battery must be in good condition, and fully charged.

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1. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery & starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown. NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.
2. Do the BATTERY TEST. Does the display indicate GOOD or LOW CHARGE? YES± The battery is OK. Go to step 3 . NO± If the tester indicates BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest. If the tester indicates CHARGE & RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.
3. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 on «GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION»(ref-320425-S37518858782009071400000) ).
4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(ref-320426-S32678800202009071400000) ).
6. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS STOP on the HDS.
7. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in N or P (A/T model) or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T model), turn the ignition switch to START (III). Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES± The starting system is OK. Go to step 15 . NO± Go to step 8 .
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
9. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES± Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 15 . NO± Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action: If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 10 . If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 12 . If the starter does not disengage from the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or torque converter ring gear (A/T model) when you release the key, replace the starter (see «Starter Removal and Installation»(ref-320443-S29408783452009071400000) ), or remove and disassemble it (see «Starter Overhaul»(ref-320443-S25744158812009071400000) ), and check for the following: Starter solenoid and switch malfunction Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch Damaged flywheel ring gear (M/T) Damaged torque converter ring gear (A/T)
10. Make sure the shift lever is in neutral (M/T model) or P or N (A/T model), and set the parking brake, then disconnect the S terminal connector (A) from the starter S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal. Does the starter crank the engine? YES± Go to step 11 . NO± Remove the starter, and repair or replace it as necessary (see «Starter Removal and Installation»(ref-320443-S29408783452009071400000) , and «Starter Overhaul»(ref-320443-S25744158812009071400000) ).
11. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit: NOTE: After the problem in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 15. Check the No. 44 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch. Check for an open or short in the GRN, BLK/WHT wires and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter. Check for an open or short in the ORN wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the clutch interlock switch (M/T model). Check for an open or short in the ORN, LT GRN or LT BLU wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the transmission range switch (A/T model). Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the clutch interlock switch and body ground (G401) (M/T model). Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and body ground (G101) (A/T model). Check for a faulty starter cut relay (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(ref-320445-S05016371762009071400000) ). Check for a faulty ignition switch (see «TEST»(ref-320446-S38896820812009071400000) ). Check for a faulty clutch interlock switch (see «Clutch Interlock Switch Test»(ref-320443-S39755978582009071400000) (M/T model)). Check for a faulty transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(ref-379915-S38670720072010121600000) (A/T model)).
12. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery & starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery.
13. Do the STARTING TEST. Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.0 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 200 A? YES± Go to step 14 . NO± Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for these problems: Drag in the starter armature Short in the armature winding Excessive drag in the engine Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in the starter brushes Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear Faulty over running clutch
14. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or the torque converter ring gear (A/T model) for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
15. Select ECM/PCM reset (see «HDS CLEAR COMMAND»(ref-320425-S21746987032009071400000) ) in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.

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1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch connector (A).
2. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table below. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch interlock switch. If OK, install the clutch interlock switch, and adjust the pedal height (see «CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH, AND CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH ADJUSTMENT»(ref-320433-S39955651782009071400000) ).

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1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch connector (A).
2. Loosen the locknut (B), then remove the clutch interlock switch (C).
3. Install the clutch interlock switch, and adjust the pedal height (see «CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH, AND CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH ADJUSTMENT»(ref-320433-S39955651782009071400000) ).

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1. Do the battery terminal disconnection procedure (see «BATTERY TERMINAL DISCONNECTION AND RECONNECTION»(ref-320444-S34791839562009071400000) ).
2. Remove the starter cable (A) and motor cable (B), then disconnect the connector (C).
3. Check the hold-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the armature housing (ground). There should be continuity. If there is continuity, go to step 4 . If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid (see «Starter Overhaul»(ref-320443-S25744158812009071400000) .
4. Check the pull-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and M terminal. There should be continuity. If there is continuity, the solenoid is OK. If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid (see «Starter Overhaul»(ref-320443-S25744158812009071400000) .
5. Install in the reverse order of removal.
6. Do the battery terminal reconnection procedure (see «BATTERY TERMINAL DISCONNECTION AND RECONNECTION»(ref-320444-S34791839562009071400000) ).

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1. Disconnect the wires from the M terminal.
2. Make the connections for this test using the thickest (gauge) wire possible (preferably the same gauge as used on the vehicle). NOTE: To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds.
3. Connect the battery as shown below. Make sure you disconnect the starter motor wire from the M terminal. If the starter pinion moves out, it is working properly.
4. Disconnect the battery from the M terminal. If the pinion does not retract, the hold-in coil of the solenoid is working properly.
5. Disconnect the battery from the starter body. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working properly.
6. Firmly clamp the starter in a vise.
7. Reconnect the wire to the M terminal.
8. Connect the starter to the battery as shown below, and confirm that the motor runs.
9. If the electric current meets the specification when the battery voltage is at 11.5 V, the starter is working properly. Specification Electric Current: 90 A or less

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1. Do the battery terminal disconnection procedure (see «BATTERY TERMINAL DISCONNECTION AND RECONNECTION»(ref-320444-S34791839562009071400000) ).
2. Remove the coolant reservoir.
3. Remove the intake manifold (see «REMOVAL»(ref-320435-S40073761662009071400000) ).
4. Remove the dipstick, then remove the dipstick tube (A).
5. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector (B).
6. Disconnect the starter cable (A) from the B terminal and disconnect the connector (B) from the S terminal.
7. Remove the two bolts securing the starter, then remove the starter from under the vehicle.

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1. Install the starter to the engine. Connect the starter cable (A) and connector (B). Make sure the crimped side of the starter cable terminal faces away from the starter when you connect it.
2. Install the dipstick tube (A) with a new O-ring (B).
3. Connect the oil pressure switch connector (C).
4. Install the coolant reservoir.
5. Install the intake manifold (see «INSTALLATION»(ref-320435-S39591627452009071400000) ).
6. Do the battery terminal reconnection procedure (see «BATTERY TERMINAL DISCONNECTION AND RECONNECTION»(ref-320444-S34791839562009071400000) ).
7. Start the engine to make sure the starter works properly.

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1. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(ref-320443-S29408783452009071400000) ).
2. Disassemble the starter as shown in the Exploded View.
3. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
4. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 5, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).
5. Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (New): 28.0 mm (1.10 in.) Service Limit: 27.0 mm (1.06 in.)
6. Measure the commutator (A) runout. If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Runout Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.001 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
7. Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C) between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or V-shaped (D). Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New): 0.50 ± 0.80 mm (0.020 ± 0.031 in.) Service Limit: 0.20 mm (0.008 in.)
8. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is an open circuit between any of the segments, replace the armature.
9. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
10. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and the armature shaft (C). If there is continuity, replace the armature.
11. Measure the brush length. If it is not within the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Length Standard (New): 14.0 ± 14.5 mm (0.55 ± 0.57 in.) Service Limit: 9.0 mm (0.35 in.)
12. Check for continuity between the brushes (A). If there is no continuity, replace the armature housing (B).
13. Check for continuity between each brush and the armature housing. If there is continuity, replace the armature housing.
14. Check for continuity between the (+) brush holder (A) and (-) brush holder (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly.
15. Insert the brush (A) into the brush holder, and bring the brush into contact with the commutator, then attach a spring scale (B) to the spring (C). Measure the spring tension at the moment the spring lifts off the brush. If it is not within the standard, replace the brush holder assembly. Spring Tension Standard (New): 13.7 ± 17.7 N (1.40 ± 1.80 kgf, 3.09 ± 3.97 lbf)
16. Slide the overrunning clutch (A) along the shaft. Replace it if it does not slide smoothly.
17. Hold the drive gear (B), and turn the overrunning clutch in the direction shown to make sure it turns freely. Also make sure the overrunning clutch locks in the opposite direction. If it does not lock in either direction or it locks in both directions, replace it.
18. If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. Check the condition of the flywheel ring gear if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged.
19. Check the planetary gears (A) and internal ring gear (B). Replace them if they are worn or damaged.
20. Pry back each brush spring with a screwdriver, then position the brush about halfway out of its holder, and release the spring to hold it there. NOTE: To seat new brushes, slip a strip of #500 or #600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly turn the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
21. Install the armature in the housing, and install the brush holder. Next, pry back each brush spring again, and push the brush down until it seats against the commutator, then release the spring against the end of the brush.
22. Install the starter end cover to retain the brush holder.
23. Do «STARTER PERFORMANCE TEST»(ref-320443-S25448096502009071400000)