Windshield Replacement
Note. Wear eye protection while cutting glass adhesive with a piano wire. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. Glass adhesive can be efficiently cut with a commercially available auto glass tool. See the tool manufacturer's instructions for details.
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- Remove these items: Cowl covers (see «COWL COVER REPLACEMENT»(ref-360090-S06290213512010042600000) ) Rearview mirror Without automatic dimming mirror (see «REARVIEW MIRROR REPLACEMENT»(ref-360116-S00262102402010042600000) ) With automatic dimming mirror (see «REARVIEW MIRROR REPLACEMENT»(ref-360116-S00262102402010042600000) ) A-pillar trims, both sides (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - PILLAR AREAS»(ref-360104-S20209505822010042600000) ) Roof moldings, both sides (see «HOOD HINGE COVER REPLACEMENT»(ref-360090-S04666890052010042600000) )
- Remove the windshield molding (A) from the upper edge of the windshield (B). If necessary, cut the windshield molding with a utility knife.
- If the old windshield will be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the windshield and the body with a grease pencil.
- Pull down the front area of the headliner (see «HEADLINER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(ref-360104-S06313682392010042600000) ). Take care not to bend the headliner excessively, or you may crease or break it. NOTE: Take care not to bend the headliner excessively, or you may crease or break it.
- Apply protective tape along the edge of the dashboard and the body. Make a hole with an awl through the rubber dam and the adhesive from inside the vehicle at a corner of the windshield. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
- With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the windshield (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body and the dashboard. Carefully cut through the rubber dam and the adhesive (C) around the entire windshield. Cutting positions
- Carefully remove the windshield with suction cups.
- Scrape smooth the old adhesive with a knife until there is a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire windshield opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. Remove the rubber dams from the body.
- Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened in isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the clean surface.
- If you are reinstalling the old windshield, scrape off the old adhesive, the upper clips, and the rubber dams from the windshield with a putty knife. Clean the bonding surfaces on the inside face and the edge of the windshield with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
- With automatic dimming rearview mirror: If the windshield will be replaced with a new one, attach the new rearview mirror harness cover base to the inside face of the windshield (see «REARVIEW MIRROR HARNESS COVER BASE REPLACEMENT»(ref-360117-S03421158412010042600000) ).
- Apply glass primer to the upper clips mounting areas on the windshield (B), and let it dry. Remove the adhesive backing and attach the rubber dam A and the upper clips (C) to the inside of the windshield as shown: Make sure the rubber dam and the upper clips line up with the alignment marks (D). With the printed dots (E) on the windshield as a guide, attach the rubber dam A to both bottom corners of the windshield. Make sure the index tabs (F) of the upper clips face the right side. Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied.
- Attach rubber dam B with adhesive tape to the inside surface of the windshield (A) as shown, using the edge of the black ceramic-coated area (C) as a guide: Make sure the rubber dam lines up with the alignment marks (D). Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied.
- Attach the windshield molding (A) with adhesive tape (B) to the upper edge of the windshield (C). Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied. NOTE: Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied.
- Attach the windshield upper seal (A) with adhesive tape to the inside surface of the windshield molding (B) as shown.
- Set the windshield in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (A) across the windshield and the body with a grease pencil at the four points shown. Make sure the pins (B) of both upper clips (C) contact with the edge of the body holes. Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied. Make sure the pins (C) of both upper clips (D) contact with the edge of the body holes. Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied.
- Remove the windshield.
- Apply a light coat of glass primer to the windshield (A) along the edge of the windshield molding (B) and the rubber dams (C) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Apply glass primer to the molding. Do not apply body primer to the windshield, and do not mix up the body and the glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, adhesive may not bond to the windshield properly, causing a leak after the windshield is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces.
- Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where the new adhesive will be applied. Let the body primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. Cover on the dashboard before applying the primer. Be careful not to mix up the body and the glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
- Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown.
- Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a continuous bead of the adhesive (A) around the windshield (B) along the edge of the windshield molding (C) and the rubber dams (D) as shown. NOTE: Apply adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
- Hold the windshield with suction cups over the opening, align it with the alignment marks made in step 16 , and set it down on adhesive. Lightly push on the windshield until its edges are fully seated on adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until adhesive is dry.
- Remove the excess adhesive with a putty knife or a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
- Wait at least an hour for the adhesive to dry, then spray water over the windshield and check for leaks. Mark leaking areas, and let the windshield dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after windshield installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
- Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).
Upper Rear Window Replacement
Note. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with a piano wire. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. Do not damage the upper rear window defogger grid lines and terminals.
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- Remove these items: Tailgate upper trim (see step 4 in «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - TAILGATE AREA»(ref-360104-S03516825412010042600000) ) Tailgate side trim (see step 3 in «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - TAILGATE AREA»(ref-360104-S03516825412010042600000) ) Tailgate middle trim (see step 2 in «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - TAILGATE AREA»(ref-360104-S03516825412010042600000) ) Tailgate spoiler trim (see «TAILGATE SPOILER TRIM REPLACEMENT»(ref-360090-S21156404772010042600000) ) Rear wiper motor (see «REAR WINDOW WIPER MOTOR REPLACEMENT»(ref-360118-S17968279032010042600000) )
- Remove the upper seal (A) from the edge of the upper rear window (B). If necessary, cut the upper seal with a utility knife.
- Disconnect the upper rear window defogger connectors (A).
- Remove the grommet (A), and disconnect the washer tube (B), the joint tubes (C, D) and the one way valve (E). Remove the washer nozzle nut (F), then remove the washer nozzle (G).
- Pull out the washer tube (A) from the washer tube clips (B) as shown.
- If the old upper rear window will be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the glass and the body with a grease pencil.
- Apply protective tape along the inside and outside edges of the body. Make a hole with an awl through the adhesive from inside the vehicle at a corner of the upper rear window. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
- With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the upper rear window (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body, and carefully cut through the adhesive (C) around the entire upper rear window. Cutting positions
- Carefully remove the upper rear window.
- Scrape smooth the old adhesive with a knife until there is a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire upper rear window opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. Remove the fasteners from the body.
- Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened in isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the surface.
- If you are installing the new upper rear window, install the rear wiper seal (A) to the upper rear window with its alignment mark (B) being aligned with the mark (C) on the upper rear window.
- If you are reinstalling the old window, scrape off all of old adhesive, the fasteners, and the rubber dams from the upper rear window with a putty knife. Clean the bonding surfaces on the inside face and the edge of the upper rear window with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
- Apply glass primer to the edge of the upper rear window (A) where the new upper seal (B) will be attached as shown. Attach the upper seal with adhesive tape to the lower edge of the upper rear window: Be careful not to touch the window where the adhesive will be applied. After installing the upper seal, cut the ends (C) of the upper seal as shown.
- Apply glass primer to the fasteners (A) mounting areas on the upper rear window (B), and let it dry. Attach the upper rubber dam (C), the side rubber dams (D), the lower rubber dam (E), and the fasteners with the adhesive tape to the inside face of the upper rear window as shown: Make sure the upper rubber dam, the side rubber dams, the lower rubber dams, and the fasteners line up with the alignment marks (F). If necessary, cut the excess rubber dams. Be careful not to touch the upper rear window where the adhesive will be applied.
- Apply glass primer to the washer tube mounting areas on the upper rear window (A), and let it dry. Attach the washer tube clips (B), the washer joint (C) and the sponge tape (D) with adhesive tape to the upper rear window: Be careful not to touch the upper rear window where the adhesive will be applied. Make sure the washer tube clips, the washer joint, and the sponge tape with the alignment marks, (E).
- Attach the fasteners (A, B) with the adhesive tape to the tailgate (C) as shown.
- Set the upper rear window (A) in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (B) across the upper rear window and the body with a grease pencil at the four points shown. Make sure the pins (C) of both fasteners (D) contact with the edge of the body holes. Be careful not to touch the upper rear window where the adhesive will be applied.
- Remove the upper rear window.
- Apply a light coat of glass primer to the upper rear window (A) along the edge of the rubber dams (B) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Apply the glass primer to the corner areas of the upper rear window using the printed dots (C) on the upper rear window as a guide. Do not apply body primer to the upper rear window, and do not mix up the body and the glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the upper rear window properly, causing a leak after the upper rear window is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces.
- Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where the new adhesive will be applied. Let the body primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any remaining old adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body primer applicators and the glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
- Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown.
- Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a continuous bead of the adhesive (A) to the upper rear window (B) along the edge of the rubber dams (C) as shown: Use the printed dots (D) as a guide when you apply the adhesive to the corners of the upper rear window. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
- Hold the upper rear window with suction cups over the opening, align it with the alignment marks you made in step 18 , and set it down on adhesive. Lightly push on the upper rear window until its edges are fully seated on adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until adhesive is dry.
- Remove the excess adhesive with a putty knife or a shop towel dampened in isopropyl alcohol.
- Wait at least an hour for the adhesive to dry, then spray water over the upper rear window and check for leaks. Mark the leaking areas, let the upper rear, window dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after upper rear window installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
- Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).
Lower Rear Window Replacement
Note. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with a piano wire. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. Do not damage the lower rear window defogger grid lines and terminals.
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- Remove these items: Tailgate lower trim panel (see step 6 in «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - TAILGATE AREA»(ref-360104-S03516825412010042600000) ) Tailgate spoiler trim (see «TAILGATE SPOILER TRIM REPLACEMENT»(ref-360090-S21156404772010042600000) )
- Disconnect the lower rear window defogger connectors (A).
- Apply protective tape along the inside and outside edges of the tailgate. Make holes with an awl through the upper adhesive from inside the vehicle from both sides of the lower rear window.
- From inside the vehicle, carefully cut through the adhesive (A) at the lower area of the lower rear window (B) with a utility knife (C).
- With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the lower rear window (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body, and carefully cut through the adhesive (C) in the upper area and the corners, but not the lower area. Cutting positions
- Detach the clips (A, B, C) that hold the lower rear window (D), then carefully remove the window.
- If necessary, remove the rear license trim (see «REAR LICENSE TRIM REPLACEMENT»(ref-360090-S38184410692010042600000) ).
- Scrape smooth the old adhesive with a knife until there is a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire lower rear window opening flange. NOTE: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper, bonding. Remove the fasteners from the tailgate.
- Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened in isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the surface.
- If you are reinstalling the old window, scrape off all of old adhesive, the fasteners, and the rubber dams from the rear window with a putty knife. Clean the bonding surfaces on the inside face and the edge of the rear window with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
- Apply glass primer to the clip mounting areas on the lower rear window (A), and let it dry. Attach the upper rubber dam (B), the side rubber dams (C), the clips (D), and the fasteners (E) with the adhesive tape to the inside face of the lower rear window as shown. Make sure the upper rubber dam, the side rubber dams, the clips, and the fasteners line up with the alignment marks (F). If necessary, cut the excess rubber dams. Make sure the index tabs (G) of the left and right clips face the left side. Be careful not to touch the lower rear window where the adhesive will be applied.
- Apply a light coat of glass primer to the lower rear window (A) along the edge of the rubber dams (B) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Apply the glass primer to the corner areas of the lower rear window using the printed dots (C) on the lower rear window as a guide. Do not apply body primer to the lower rear window, and do not mix up the body and the glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the lower rear window properly, causing a leak after the rear window is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces.
- Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where the new adhesive will be applied. Let the body primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any remaining old adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body primer applicators and the glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
- Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown.
- Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a continuous bead of the adhesive (A) around the lower rear window (B) along the edge of the rubber dams (C) as shown: Use the printed dots (D) as a guide when you apply the adhesive to the corners of the lower rear window. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
- Hold the lower rear window with suction cups over the opening, align the clips, and set it down on adhesive. Lightly push on the lower rear window until its edges are fully seated on adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until adhesive is dry.
- Remove the excess adhesive with a putty knife or a shop towel dampened in isopropyl alcohol.
- Wait at least an hour for the adhesive to dry, then spray water over the lower rear window and check for leaks. Mark the leaking areas, let the lower rear window dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after lower rear window installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
- Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).
Quarter Glass Replacement
Note. Wear eye protection when removing the glass with piano wire. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. Use a clip remover to remove the clips.
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- Remove the quarter pillar trim (see «QUARTER PILLAR TRIM»(ref-360104-S35820967012010042600000) ).
- Remove the front seal (A) from the front edge of the quarter glass (B). If necessary, cut the seal with a utility knife.
- Apply protective tape along the inside and outside edges of the body. From pillar side the vehicle, to cut the front clips (A) with a utility knife (B) of the quarter glass molding (C).
- From inside the vehicle, cut through the adhesive (A) of the quarter glass with a utility knife (B).
- While an assistant is holding the quarter glass (A), detach the clip with a clip remover from inside the vehicle, then carefully remove the quarter glass.
- Scrape smooth the old adhesive with a knife until there is a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire quarter glass opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. Remove the clips from the body.
- Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened in isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the surface.
- If you are reinstalling the old glass, scrape off all of the old adhesive with a putty knife and the damaged clips from the quarter glass. Clean the bonding surfaces on the inside face and the edge of the quarter glass with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
- Attach the new front seal (A) with adhesive tape to the inside face of the quarter glass (B) as shown. Before installing the front seal, apply primer to the inside face of the quarter glass.
- Apply a light coat of glass primer to the quarter glass (A) and the front seal (B) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Apply the glass primer to the rear corner, upper corner and lower corner areas of the quarter glass using the printed dots (C) on the quarter glass as a guide. Do not apply body primer to the quarter glass, and do not mix up the body and the glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, adhesive may not bond to the quarter glass properly, causing a leak after the quarter glass is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces.
- Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where the new adhesive will be applied. Let the body primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any remaining old adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body and the glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
- Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown.
- Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a continuous bead of the adhesive (A) around the quarter glass (B) and along the front seal (C) as shown: Use the printed dots (D) as a guide when you apply the adhesive to the corners of the lower rear window. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
- Hold the quarter glass (A) with suction cups (B) over the opening, align it with the clips (C), and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the quarter glass until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until adhesive is dry.
- Remove the excess adhesive with a putty knife or a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
- Wait at least an hour for the adhesive to dry, then spray water over the quarter glass and check for leaks. Mark the leaking areas, let the quarter glass dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after quarter glass installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
- Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).