Engine Block: Other Honda CR-V II рестайлинг

Rod Bearing Selection

1. Inspect each connecting rod for cracks and heat damage.

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1. 2. Each rod has a tolerance range from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.0009 in.), in 0.006 mm (0.0002 in.) increments, depending on the size of its big end bore. It's then stamped with a number or bar (1, 2, 3, or 4/I, II, III, or IIII) indicating the range. You may find any combination of numbers and bars in any engine. (Half the number or bar is stamped on the bearing cap, the other half on the rod.) If you can't read the code because of an accumulation of oil and varnish, do not scrub it with a wire brush or scraper. Clean it only with solvent or detergent. Normal Bore Size: 51.0 mm (2.01 in.)

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1. 3. The connecting rod journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft. Connecting Rod Journal Code Location (Letters or Bars)
2. 4. Use the big end bore codes and rod journal codes to select appropriate replacement bearings from the following table. NOTE: Color code is on the edge of the bearing. When using bearing halves of different colors, it does not matter which color is used in the top or bottom.

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1. Drain the engine oil (see «ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT»(ref-219366-S17358355312006021400000) ).
2. If the engine is still in the vehicle, remove the subframe. 1 Attach the chain hoist to the engine (see step 39 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-219363-S16801977912006021400000) ). 2 Disconnect the suspension lower arm ball joints (see step 10 on «KNUCKLE AND HUB REPLACEMENT»(ref-219387-S41826429172006021400000) ). 3 Remove the rear mount mounting bolts (see step 43 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-219363-S16801977912006021400000) ). 4 Remove the front mount mounting bolt (see step 44 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-219363-S16801977912006021400000) ). 5 Remove the ATF filter mounting bolt (A/T) (see step 35 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-219363-S16801977912006021400000) ). 6 Make the appropriate reference lines at positions A and B that line up with the center of the subframe mounting bolts (see step 45 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-219363-S16801977912006021400000) ). 7 Attach the special tool to the subframe, then attach the jack to the special tool (see step 46 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-219363-S16801977912006021400000) ) 8 Remove the front subframe mounting bolts, then remove the subframe (see step 48 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-219363-S16801977912006021400000) )
3. Remove the stiffener (M/T).
4. Remove the bolts/nuts securing the oil pan.
5. Drive an oil pan seal cutter between the oil pan and engine block.
6. Cut the oil pan seal by striking the side of the cutter to slide the cutter along the oil pan.
7. Remove the oil pan.

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1. Remove the engine assembly (see «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-219363-S16801977912006021400000) ).
2. Remove the transmission: Manual transmission (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(ref-219381-S31504803802006021400000) ) Automatic transmission (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(ref-219382-S05352755352006021400000) )
3. Remove the oil pan (see «OIL PAN REMOVAL»(ref-219365-S23951530132006021400000) ).
4. Remove the oil pump (see «OIL PUMP REMOVAL»(ref-219366-S22100575852006021400000) ).
5. Remove the cylinder head (see «CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL»(ref-219364-S13749836802006021400000) ).
6. Remove the baffle plates.
7. If you can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of each cylinder, remove it with a ridge reamer (A). Follow the reamer manufacturer's instructions. If the ridge is not removed, it may damage the pistons as they are pushed out.
8. Remove the 8 mm bolts in the criss-cross pattern shown.
9. Remove the bearing cap bolts. To prevent warpage, unscrew the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
10. Remove the lower block and bearings. Keep all bearings in order.
11. Remove the rod caps/bearings. Keep all caps/bearings in order.
12. Lift the crankshaft out of the engine, being careful not to damage the journals.
13. Remove the upper bearing halves from the connecting rods, and set them aside with their respective caps.
14. Use the wooden handle of a hammer (A) to drive out the pistons (B).
15. Reinstall the lower block and bearings on the engine in the proper order.
16. Reinstall the connecting rod bearings and caps after removing each piston/connecting rod assembly.
17. To avoid mix-up on reassembly, mark each piston/connecting rod assembly with its cylinder number. NOTE: The existing number on the connecting rod does not indicate its position in the engine, it indicates the rod bore size.

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1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(ref-219365-S27061285742006021400000) ).
2. Clean the crankshaft oil passages with pipe cleaners or a suitable brush.
3. Clean the keyway and threads.
4. Measure out-of round at the middle of each rod and main journal in two places. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Journal Out-of-Round Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.0002 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.)
5. Measure taper at the edges of each rod and main journal. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Journal Taper Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.0002 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.)

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1. 6. Place the cylinder block on the surface plate.
2. 7. Clean and install the bearings on the No. 1 and No. 5 journal of the engine block.
3. 8. Lower the crankshaft into the block.
4. 9. Measure runout on all main journals. Rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Crankshaft Total Runout Standard (New): 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.04 mm (0.0016 in.)

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1. Remove the crankshaft and pistons (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(ref-219365-S27061285742006021400000) ).
2. Check the piston for distortion or cracks.
3. Measure the piston diameter at a point 13 mm (0.5 in.) from the bottom of the skirt. There are two standard-size pistons (No Letter or A, and B). The letter is stamped on the top of the piston. Letters are also stamped on the block as cylinder bore sizes. Piston Diameter Standard (New): No Letter (or A): 86.980-86.990 mm (3.4244-3.4248 in.) B: 86.970-86.980 mm (3.4240-3.4244 in.) Service Limit: No Letter (or A): 86.930 mm (3.4224 in.) B: 86.920 mm (3.4220 in.) Oversize Piston Diameter 0.25: 87.230-87.240 mm (3.4342-3.4346 in.)
4. Measure wear and taper in direction X and Y at three levels in each cylinder as shown. If measurements in any cylinder are beyond the Oversize Bore Service Limit, replace the block. If the block is to be rebored, refer to step 7 after reboring. Cylinder Bore Size Standard (New): A or I: 87.010-87.020 mm (3.4256-3.4260 in.) B or II: 87.000-87.010 mm (3.4252-3.4256 in.) Service Limit: 87.070 mm (3.4279 in.) Oversize 0.25: 87.250-87.260 mm (3.4350-3.4354 in.) Reboring limit: 0.25 mm (0.01 in.) max. Bore Taper Limit: (Difference between first and third measurement) 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
5. Scored or scratched cylinder bores must be honed.
6. Check the top of the block for warpage. Measure along the edges and across the center as shown. Engine Block Warpage Standard (New): 0.07 mm (0.003 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)
7. Calculate the difference between the cylinder bore diameter and the piston diameter. If the clearance is near or exceeds the service limit, inspect the piston and engine block for excessive wear. Piston-to-Cylinder Clearance Standard (New): 0.020-0.040 mm (0.0008-0.0016 in.) Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)

Cylinder Bore Honing

Only a scored or scratched cylinder bore must be honed.

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1. Measure the cylinder bores (see «CYLINDER BORE HONING»(ref-219365-S20779252582006021400000) ). If the block is to be reused, hone the cylinders and remeasure the bores.
2. Hone the cylinder bores with honing oil and a fine (400 grit) stone in a 60 degree cross-hatch pattern (A). Use only a rigid hone with 400 grit or finer stone such as Sunnen, Ammco, or equivalent. Do not use stones that are worn or broken.
3. When honing is complete, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal particles. Wash the cylinder bores with hot soapy water, then dry and oil them immediately to prevent rusting. Never use solvent, it will only redistribute the grit on the cylinder walls.
4. If scoring or scratches are still present in the cylinder bores after honing to the service limit, rebore the engine block. Some light vertical scoring and scratching is acceptable if it is not deep enough to catch your fingernail and does not run the full length of the bore.

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1. Remove the piston from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(ref-219365-S27061285742006021400000) ).
2. Apply new engine oil to the piston pin snap rings (A), and turn them in the ring grooves until the end gaps are lined up with the cutouts in the piston pin bores (B). NOTE: Take care not to damage the ring grooves.
3. Remove both snap rings (A). Start at the cutout in the piston pin bore. Remove the snap rings carefully so they do not go flying or get lost. Wear eye protection.
4. Heat the piston and connecting rod assembly to about 158 °F (70 °C), then remove the piston pin.