ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM
Note. Anti-Lock brake system is standard or available on Continental, Cougar, Mark VII and Thunderbird models. For service and repair of this system see ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM article in the BRAKES Section.
The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) is designed to allow the vehicle to stop in the shortest possible distance while maintaining full steering control. ABS system consists of an Electronic Control Module (ECM), hydraulic accumulator, hydraulic actuation assembly, electric pump/motor, pressure warning switch, fluid level indicator sensor, solenoid valve block assembly, 4 wheel sensors and toothed sensor rings, ANTI-LOCK and BRAKE warning lights, relays and wiring harness.
BRAKE BOOSTER - BENDIX SINGLE DIAPHRAGM
The power brake booster uses intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure to provide its power. Vacuum power unit contains power piston assembly, which houses control valve, reaction mechanism and return spring. Control valve consists of air valve, floating control valve assembly and push rod. Reaction mechanism consists of reaction plate and levers. A vacuum check valve is mounted in front housing for connection to vacuum source.
BRAKE PRESSURE CONTROL VALVE - SABLE & TAURUS
On Sedan models, the Brake Pressure Control Valve operates in a similar manner as the load-sensing control valves used on many truck models. It is located at the rear, left side of the vehicle, attached to the underbody and connected to the rear suspension arm.
On Wagon models, front-to-rear brake proportioning is controlled by 2 Pressure Control Valves incorporated into the brake master cylinder.
DISC BRAKE - SINGLE PISTON
The disc brake assembly consists of a rotor, a single-piston caliper, 2 shoe and lining assemblies, a splash shield and an anchor plate. The cast iron rotor has cooling fins between the 2 braking surfaces. Brake linings are riveted to brake shoes and insulator gaskets are bonded to back of each brake shoe.
All models use a sliding caliper that slides on 2 locating pins. Locating pins attach caliper, combination anchor plate and spindle. Continental, Mark VII and Thunderbird Turbo have single-piston calipers at all 4 wheels.
DRUM BRAKE AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER
On duo-servo design brakes the adjuster uses movement of rear (secondary) shoe during reverse brake application to turn brake adjusting screw. Screw is rotated a small amount to maintain proper lining-to-drum clearance.
Non-servo design brakes use an incremental adjuster that adjusts during braking whenever a wear gap appears sufficient to actuate the adjuster wheel. Brake adjustment occurs during forward and rearward braking.
DRUM BRAKES - SINGLE ANCHOR AUTOMATIC ADJUSTING
Units consists of a backing plate, 2 brake shoes, return springs, hold-down spring assemblies, self-adjusting components, and a wheel cylinder. Duo Servo Automatic adjuster consists of a cable (with spring hook and anchor fitting), cable guide, adjusting lever, lever pivot and adjusting screw (star).
MASTER CYLINDER - BENDIX/DELCO-MORAINE
All master cylinders are dual-piston, single-bore assemblies. When brake pedal is depressed master cylinder primary piston moves forward. Under normal conditions, combination of hydraulic pressure and force of primary piston spring move secondary piston forward at same time.
When pistons have moved forward, primary cups cover by-pass holes, hydraulic pressure is built up and transmitted to front and rear brake assemblies.
Some master cylinders have a residual pressure valve installed under tube seat insert in drum brake outlet. This valve keeps a small amount of pressure in drum brake systems and prevents air from entering system.
Many master cylinders are equipped with fluid level sensor switches and integral proportioning valves. The proportioning valves are designed to provide better front-to-rear braking balance. Many master cylinders also have a built-in quick take-up feature which allows a large quantity of brake fluid to remain in wheel cylinders for quicker braking action.
BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING
Hydraulic system bleeding is necessary any time air has been introduced into system. Bleed brakes at all 4 wheels if master cylinder lines have been disconnected or master cylinder has run dry. Bleeding can be accomplished by using pressure bleeding equipment or by manually pumping brake pedal and using a clear bleeder hose.
SERVICING METERING VALVE
- On disc brake equipped vehicles, the metering section of combination valve must be held open before pressure bleeding.
- Hold metering valve open while pressure bleeding front brakes. To loosen front mounting bolt and install pressure bleeding tool on combination valve, valve stem should be fully extended or depressed.
Note. Never reintroduce brake fluid that has been drained from hydraulic brake system or that has been allowed to stand in an open container for an extended period of time. Also, do not use fluid that contains a petroleum base. Petroleum based fluids will cause swelling and distortion of rubber parts in hydraulic system.
BENCH BLEEDING MASTER CYLINDER
Note. Bleed tubes must have a residual pressure check valve installed to keep tubes from siphoning brake fluid.
- Clamp master cylinder in vise by mounting flange. Install tubes in outlet ports. Fill reservoirs with clean brake fluid so that bleed tubes are below brake fluid level. (Scheme 1)
- Slowly compress and release piston assemblies until bubbles cease to appear in brake fluid. Remove tubes and plug master cylinder outlets to keep fluid from draining.
Scheme 1
MANUAL BLEEDING
Note. Ensure that fluid level in master cylinder is adequate at all times during bleeding procedure.
- Fill master cylinder with clean brake fluid. Install bleeder hose to wheel assembly being serviced. Submerge other end of hose in clean glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid.
- Depress brake pedal slowly through its full travel and hold. Open bleed screw 3/4-1 turn. Close bleed screw. Release brake pedal. Repeat procedure until brake fluid shows no signs of air bubbles.
PRESSURE BLEEDING
- To prevent dirt from falling into reservoir, clean master cylinder and cover/diaphragm assembly, With pressure tank at least 1/3 full, connect to master cylinder using adapters.
- Install bleeder hose to wheel assembly being serviced. Submerge other end of hose in clean glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid.
- Open release valve on pressure bleeder. Open bleed screw 3/4-1 turn. Close bleed screw when brake fluid is clear and free of bubbles. Bleed remaining wheel assemblies in sequence and in same manner. Remove pressure bleeding tool.
BLEEDING PRESSURES
| Application | Psi (kg/cm 2 ) |
|---|---|
| All Models | 10-30 (.70-2.10) |
BLEEDING PRESSURES
BLEEDING SEQUENCE
If vehicle is equipped with power brakes, exhaust vacuum reserve from power unit by depressing brake pedal several times. Bleed master cylinder before bleeding wheel assemblies. Bleed wheel cylinders or calipers in the correct sequence.
| Application | Sequence |
|---|---|
| Escort, EXP, Lynx, Tempo & Topaz | RR, LF, LR, RF |
| All other models | RR, LR, RF, LF |
BLEEDING SEQUENCE
BRAKE BOOSTER PUSH ROD
Note. Some Ford boosters use factory adjusted or non-adjustable push rods. Do not attempt to adjust this type of push rod.
- Make push rod gauge according to specified dimensions. (Scheme 2)or (Scheme 3). Remove master cylinder from power unit without removing hydraulic lines and set aside.
- Start the engine and place the gauge over push rod. Adjust push rod nut to provide light tension of about 5 lbs. (2.3 kg) against gauge. Reinstall the master cylinder. (Scheme 4)
- With engine idling and master cylinder reservoir cover removed, observe fluid surface when brake pedal is applied rapidly. Movement of fluid surface in forward reservoir indicates properly adjusted push rod. If fluid surface movement did not occur, push rod is adjusted too long and procedure must be repeated to prevent brake drag.
Scheme 2
Scheme 3
Scheme 4
Adjustment Preparation
- Drive the vehicle on a hoist or an alignment machine. Ensure that the vehicle is at curb load level and the wheels are on a flat surface. Loosen the valve adjuster set-screw.
- With a piece of rubber or vacuum hose or plastic tubing 3/8" outside diameter x 1/4 inch inside diameter, cut a piece.64" +/-.1" (16.3 mm +/- 0.3 mm). Slice the tubing lengthwise. (Scheme 5)
- Place this length of tubing or hose on the valve operating rod. Make sure the adjuster sleeve is resting on the lower mounting bracket. Tighten the setscrew to specification. The dimension will position the valve for normal operation. Remove the tube or hose.
Note. The position of the upper nut on the valve operating rod should not change.
Scheme 5
Refer to the following procedures if further adjustment is required
Decrease Pressure At Rear Brakes
Make sure suspension is at curb height. Loosen the adjuster set-screw. For each 413 kPa (60 psi) pressure decrease, move adjuster sleeve up toward valve body on the operating rod 1 mm. Tighten setscrew in adjuster sleeve in correct position.
Increase Pressure At Rear Brakes
Make sure suspension is at curb height position. Loosen the adjuster setscrew. For each 413 kPa (60 psi) pressure increase, move adjuster sleeve down and away from the valve body on the operating rod 1 mm. Tighten setscrew in adjuster sleeve in required position.
Scheme 6
DRUM BRAKE SHOES
Note. This adjustment is made only after brake lining replacement or if brake applications are insufficient to actuate automatic adjuster.
- On all models except Escort, EXP, Tempo and Topaz with 7" brakes, use a measuring tool to determine drum diameter and proper shoe diameter. Hold automatic adjusting lever out of engagement while rotating adjusting screw. Adjust brake shoes to fit gauge. Rotate gauge around shoe to ensure proper fit.
- On Escort, EXP, Tempo and Topaz with 7" brakes, pivot adjuster quadrant until it meshes with knurled pin and is in 3rd or 4th notch of outboard end of quadrant. Install drum and wheel and adjust wheel bearings. See appropriate article in the SUSPENSION Section.
- On all models, complete adjustment by applying brakes several times while backing vehicle, with forward movement after each application. Use a minimum 50 lbs. (22 kg) pressure on non-power brakes and 25 lbs. (11 kg) on power brakes.
PARKING BRAKE - RWD MODELS
Release parking brake fully. Place transmission in "N" and raise vehicle on axle type hoist. Tighten adjusting nut against cable equalizer or cable adjusting rod until rear brakes drag. Loosen adjusting nut until brakes turn freely, without drag. If equipped, tighten lock nut to 84-120 INCH lbs. (10-14 N.m). Lower vehicle and check brake operation.
PARKING BRAKE - FWD MODELS
With engine running, pump brakes 3 times before adjusting parking brake. Place transmission in "N" and raise vehicle enough to rotate wheels. Place parking brake lever in 12th notch position. Tighten adjusting nut until 1" (25 mm) of threaded rod is exposed beyond nut. Return handle to "OFF" position and rotate rear wheels. A slight drag is desirable. If no drag is present or lever travels too far, repeat above procedure.
VACUUM PARKING BRAKE RELEASE
- Visually check operation of brake linkage as pedal is depressed and when manual release lever is activated. CAUTION: Air pressure should never be applied to vacuum system as diaphragm in vacuum motor may be damaged.
- Ensure a minimum of 10 in. Hg is available at all points where vacuum is applied. Start engine and let idle. Place transmission in "D" and observe that lever moves upward and parking brake releases. If it does not release, check for proper vacuum in system and replace components as necessary.
LATERAL RUNOUT
- With rotor mounted on lath, mount a dial indicator with indicator pointer contacting center of braking surface.
- Turn rotor one revolution, checking indicator reading as rotor moves. If runout is excessive, replace or resurface rotor as needed.
PARALLELISM
Measure rotor thickness at 4 or more points, at equal distances from edge of rotor. If rotor does not meet specifications, replace or resurface rotor as needed.
DRUM BRAKES
Note. When servicing brake parts, do not create dust by grinding or sanding linings or using compressed air. Use water dampened shop towel to remove dirt and dust from brake parts during disassembly.
Cleaning
Clean all parts except linings and drums with brake cleaning solvent. To remove brake fluid contamination, clean all parts except brake linings with denatured alcohol. Contaminated brake linings must be replaced.
Inspection
- Pull back wheel cylinder dust boots and check for evidence of leakage. If evidence of leakage is noted, cylinder should be disassembled, inspected and overhauled.
- Polish brake support plate ledges with fine emery cloth and inspect for grooves that could restrict shoe movement. If grooves exist after polishing, support plate must be replaced.
- Inspect lining wear pattern. If wear across width of lining is uneven, drums should be checked for distortion, shoes for correct positioning, and support plate for distortion.
- Inspect all springs for evidence of overheating and fractures. Self-adjusting cables should be inspected for kinks, fraying, or elongation of eyelet. Inspect adjuster screws for freedom of rotation, and adjuster lever for wear and distortion. Replace all defective brake parts.
Removal
- Disconnect battery and remove air cleaner. Disconnect manifold vacuum hose from booster check valve. Remove brake lines from primary and secondary outlet ports of master cylinder. Remove 2 nuts attaching master cylinder to brake booster assembly. Remove master cylinder.
- Under dash, remove stoplight switch wiring connector from switch. Remove hairpin retainer and outer nylon washer from pedal pin. Slide stoplight switch off brake pedal pin just far enough for outer arm to clear pin. Remove switch. Avoid damaging switch during removal.
- Remove booster-to-dash panel attaching nuts. On vehicles equipped with speed control, remove and set aside control amplifier which is mounted to lower outboard booster stud. Slide booster push rod, bushing, and inner nylon washer off brake pedal pin.
- Under hood, move booster forward until booster studs clear dash panel. Rotate front of booster inward (toward engine) and remove booster by raising up until clear.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure and bleed brakes. See BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING .
- Disconnect battery and remove air cleaner. Disconnect accelerator cable from throttle body. Remove screw that secures accelerator cable to accelerator shaft bracket, and remove cable from bracket.
- Remove 2 screws that secure accelerator shaft bracket to manifold, and rotate bracket toward engine. Remove RPO horn on all models except Cougar and Thunderbird. Disconnect 2 manifold injector connectors located near oil dipstick retaining bracket. CAUTION: The fuel system is under pressure and must be bled prior to disconnecting quick connect fittings.
- Disconnect 2 fuel hoses to fuel supply manifold assembly. Remove 3 bolts holding oil dipstick bracket to upper intake manifold. Remove dipstick and bracket. Remove windshield wiper motor.
- Remove vacuum hoses directly over brake booster at dash panel vacuum "T". Remove bolt holding clutch cable stand and move bracket to side rail at fender inner panel. If equipped with speed control, move speed control cable aside to clear booster.
- Disconnect manifold vacuum hose from booster check valve. Remove brake lines from primary and secondary outlet ports of master cylinder. Remove 2 nuts attaching master cylinder to brake booster assembly, and remove master cylinder.
- Under dash, remove stoplight switch wiring connector from switch. Remove hairpin retainer and outer nylon washer from pedal pin. Slide stoplight switch off brake pedal pin just far enough for outer arm to clear pin. Remove switch. Be careful not to damage switch during removal. Remove booster-to-dash panel attaching nuts.
- On vehicles equipped with speed control, remove and set aside control amplifier which is mounted to lower outboard booster stud. Slide booster push rod, bushing, and inner nylon washer off brake pedal pin.
- Under hood, move booster forward until booster studs clear dash panel. Rotate front of booster inward (toward engine) and remove booster by raising it up until clear.
To install, bleed brakes and reverse removal procedure. See BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING .
- Disconnect battery and remove master cylinder from booster. Set it aside without disturbing hydraulic lines. It is not necessary to disconnect brake lines, but use care to avoid kinking them. Disconnect manifold vacuum hose from booster check valve.
- Under dash, remove stoplight switch connector. Remove switch retaining pin. Slide stoplight switch off brake pedal pin just far enough for outer plate of stoplight switch to clear pin, then remove switch from pin. Avoid damaging switch during removal.
- Remove booster-to-dash panel attaching nuts. Slide booster push rod, nylon washers, and bushing off brake pedal pin. Remove booster assembly from dash panel by sliding push rod out through engine side of dash panel.
To install, reverse removal procedure.
- Disconnect battery and remove tubes from primary and secondary outlet ports of master cylinder. Remove 2 nuts attaching master cylinder to brake booster assembly and remove master cylinder.
- Under dash, remove stoplight switch connector from switch. Remove push rod retainer and outer nylon washer from pedal pin. Slide stoplight switch along brake pedal pin just far enough for outer hole to clear pin. Remove switch by sliding it upward. Avoid damaging switch during removal.
- Remove booster-to-dash panel attaching nuts. Slide booster push rod and push rod bushing off brake pedal pin. Inside engine compartment, disconnect manifold vacuum hose from booster check valve. Move booster forward until booster studs clear dash panel and remove booster.
To install, reverse removal procedure and bleed brakes. See BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING .
- Disconnect battery ground cable and remove brake tubes from primary and secondary outlet ports of master cylinder. Disconnect vacuum hose from booster. Disconnect warning light.
- Remove master cylinder attaching nuts and remove master cylinder.
- Under dash, remove stoplight switch connector and push rod retaining clip. Slide stoplight switch and push rod off brake pedal pin.
- Remove booster-to-firewall nuts and cowl intrusion bolt. Slide booster forward.
- Under hood, remove manifold vacuum fitting at cowl. Remove transmission shift cable and bracket. Remove booster.
To install, reverse removal procedure and bleed brakes. See BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING .
- Lift and support vehicle. Mark the 4 brake tubes and pressure control valve for installation reference. Disconnect the 4 brake tubes from pressure control valve assembly.
- To lower suspension arm, remove valve bracket-to-lower suspension arm attaching bolt. Remove the 2 valve bracket-to-underbody retaining screws. Remove the pressure control valve assembly.
Note. The service replacement valve, identified by a red plastic gauge clip, must not be removed until installed on the vehicle.
Scheme 7
- Make sure the rear suspension is in full rebound. Ensure the red plastic gauge clip is in place on the valve and the operating rod lower adjustment screw is loose. Position valve assembly to underbody. Install 2 retaining bolts.
- To lower suspension arm, position valve lower mounting bracket and install one retaining screw. Ensure the valve adjuster is resting on the lower bracket. Tighten set-screw to specification.
- Connect 4 brake tubes in the same position as removed. Bleed the rear brakes. Lower vehicle after removing the red plastic gauge clip.
Disconnect primary or secondary brake tube as required. From the master cylinder housing, loosen and remove the pressure control valve(s).
Scheme 8
Install the pressure control valve(s) in master cylinder housing port(s). Install the brake tube(s). Tighten control valve(s) and brake tubes to 10-18 Ft. Lbs. (14-24 N.m). Fill and bleed brake system.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
Procedure for removing caliper is the same as for shoe and lining. See DISC BRAKE SHOE & LINING under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Disconnect brake hose from caliper and plug openings. To install, reverse removal procedure. Refill and bleed air from system.
DISC BRAKE SHOE & LINING
Note. Replace shoes and linings on both sides of vehicle to maintain equal braking action.
- Remove enough brake fluid from master cylinder to prevent overflow when piston is pushed into caliper. Raise and support front of vehicle. Remove front wheels.
- Be careful not to pry directly against plastic caliper piston.
- Disconnect parking brake cable on rear caliper models. On Mark VII rear calipers, loosen caliper end retainer 1/2 turn only. Press piston into bore. NOTE: If caliper end retainer is loosened more than 1/2 turn, brake fluid may leak into parking brake mechanism chamber. If this happens, remove end retainer and clean parking brake mechanism chamber.
- On all models, remove caliper mounting bolts and lift caliper assembly from anchor plate and rotor. Support caliper assembly with wire to prevent damage to brake hose. Remove outer shoe. Remove inner shoe and anti-rattle clip or spring.
- Remove and discard locating pin insulators and plastic sleeves (if equipped). DO NOT reuse these parts.
Installation (Rear)
- On mark VII models, tighten caliper end retainer. Install new locating pin insulators and plastic sleeves. Lubricate insulators with silicone grease and ensure they straddle housing holes. On all models, install parking brake lever. Seat piston in caliper and install caliper into position.
- On Mark VII models, install anti-rattle spring on inner shoe anchor plate and install shoes in caliper. Pull caliper so outboard shoe is held against rotor. Hold inboard shoe against rotor and measure gap between caliper and inboard shoe. If gap is greater than.094" (2.4 mm), remove caliper and adjust caliper piston out.
- On Continental and Thunderbird models, install shoes and anti-rattle springs in proper position. (Scheme 9) On all models, ensure one of 2 round torque buttons on shoes are seated in piston hole. With locking compound on retaining bolts, install and tighten.
- Install wheels, lower vehicle and fill master cylinder with fluid. Pump pedal several times to seat shoes and check brake operation.
Scheme 9
Installation (Front)
Seat piston in caliper bore. Install inner shoe in caliper without bending shoe clips. Install correct outer shoe and seat clips. Install caliper over rotor. Install wheels, lower vehicle and fill master cylinder with fluid. Pump pedal several times to seat shoes and check brake operation.
- Raise and support front of vehicle and remove front wheel. Remove caliper assembly and support out of way to avoid damaging brake hose.
- On RWD models, remove grease cap from hub. Remove cotter key, nut lock, adjusting nut and thrust washer from spindle. Remove outer wheel bearing, pull hub and rotor assembly from spindle.
- On rotor can be pulled from hub after caliper is removed.
To install, reverse removal procedure and adjust wheel bearings. See appropriate article in the SUSPENSION section.
- Remove drum, releasing brake adjustment if necessary. Install clamp over wheel cylinder pistons. Remove shoe-to-anchor springs and unhook cable eye from anchor pin. Remove anchor pin plate.
- Remove hold-down springs, shoes, adjusting screw, pivot nut, socket and automatic adjuster. Remove parking brake link spring and retainer. Disconnect parking brake cable from lever. After removing secondary shoe, disassemble parking brake lever from shoe by removing retaining clip and spring washer.
- Assemble parking brake lever to secondary shoe and secure with spring washer and retaining clip. Lubricate brake shoe contact points. Position shoes on backing plate and install hold-down springs.
- Install parking brake link, spring and retainer. Back off parking brake adjustment and connect cable to brake lever. Install anchor pin plate. Place cable eye over anchor pin with crimped side toward drum.
- Install primary shoe anchor spring. Install cable guide on secondary shoe web with flanged hole fitted into hole in shoe web. Thread cable around anchor guide groove; NOT between guide and shoe web. Install secondary anchor spring. All parts should be flat on anchor pin.
- Lubricate threads of adjusting screw and turn screw into pivot nut to limit of threads. Back off 1/2 turn and place socket on screw end. Install assembly between shoe ends with adjusting screw toothed wheel nearest secondary shoe.
- Install cable hook in adjusting lever. Position hooked end of adjuster spring completely into large hole of primary shoe web. Connect loop end of spring to adjuster lever hole. Pull adjuster lever, cable and adjuster spring down and rearward, engaging pivot hook in large hole of secondary shoe web.
- Ensure shoes are seated and centered on backing plate and that automatic adjuster is operating. Install drums and adjust and bleed brakes. Check for proper brake operation before moving vehicle.
- Remove grease cap from hub. Remove cotter pin, nut lock and adjusting nut. Remove flat washer and outer bearing. Remove wheel, drum and hub assembly as a unit, being careful not to drag seal across spindle threads.
- Remove hold-down spring and pins. Lift brake shoe and adjuster assembly off backing plate. Remove parking brake cable from parking brake lever. On 7" brakes remove lower retracting spring, then remove lower primary shoe retracting spring by rotating shoe over adjusting quadrant and disconnecting spring. NOTE: If drum will not come off, insert a screwdriver through adjustment hole and apply side pressure to adjuster assembly pivot to release brake adjustment. On 8", 8.85" and 9.84" brakes it will be necessary to remove brake line-to-axle retention bracket to gain access to adjuster hole.
- On 7" brakes remove secondary shoe-to-parking brake strut retracting spring by pivoting strut downward until it disengages from secondary shoe. On 8", 8.85" and 9.84" brakes, remove retracting springs from lower brake shoe attachment and upper shoe-to-adjuster lever.
- On 7" brakes, disassemble adjuster by pulling quadrant away from knurled pin and rotating. Remove spring and slide quadrant out of slot. On all models, remove parking brake lever horseshoe retaining clip and spring washer. Lift lever off pin on brake shoe.
- Apply a light coating of high temperature grease to contact points of brake shoes and backing plate and adjusting screw threads. On 7" brakes, install adjuster quadrant until it meshes with knurled pin in 3rd or 4th notch of outboard end of quadrant.
- On 8", 8.85" and 9.84" brakes, install stainless steel washer over socket end of adjusting screw and install socket. Turn adjusting screw into adjusting pivot nut to limit of threads and back off 1/2 turn. On all models, assemble parking brake lever to secondary shoe. Install spring washer and new horseshoe clip. Crimp clip until lever is securely fastened.
- On 8", 8.85" and 9.84" brakes, install parking brake cable to parking brake lever. On 7" brakes, install secondary shoe to parking brake strut retracting spring by attaching to slots in each part and pivoting strut to tension spring. Ensure spring end with hook parallel to centerline of coils is installed in hole in shoe web. Installed spring should be flat against shoe and parallel to strut.
- On all models, attach lower shoe retracting spring to brake shoes. On 7" brakes, install primary shoe to adjuster strut retracting spring. On all models, expand shoe assembly and install over anchor plate and wheel cylinder. On 7" brakes, install parking brake cable to parking brake lever. On all models, install hold-down pins and spring assembly.
- On 8", 8.85" and 9.84" brakes, install adjuster screw between primary shoe slot and slot in secondary shoe and parking brake lever with socket end of screw assembly in secondary shoe. Ensure letter on socket faces up. Assemble adjusting lever in groove located in parking brake lever pin.
- On 8", 8.85" and 9.84" brakes, attach upper retracting spring to leading shoe slot. Stretch other end of spring into notch on adjuster lever. Adjuster lever should contact star wheel after installing spring. On all models, install drum, wheel, outer bearing, keyed washer and hub nut. Adjust wheel bearing. See appropriate article in the SUSPENSION Section.
Scheme 10
- On power brake systems, disconnect brake fluid level indicator and brake warning switch leads (if equipped). Disconnect hydraulic brake lines. Remove master cylinder attaching nuts and remove master cylinder.
- On manual brake systems, disconnect negative battery cable and warning switch lead (if equipped). Disconnect hydraulic brake lines. Remove push rod at brake pedal and remove stoplight switch (if equipped). Remove master cylinder attaching nuts and remove master cylinder.
- Bleed master cylinder. To complete installation, reverse remainder of removal procedure. Bleed hydraulic brake system.
- Check master cylinder compensating ports. Remove master cylinder cover and observe brake fluid. A slight surge or small spurt should appear in one or both reservoirs upon brake application. If no spurt appears, push rod may be improperly adjusted.
- Adjust push rod at brake pedal, on manual brakes. Push rod should have a slight amount of play when brake pedal is released. On power brakes, see «BRAKE BOOSTER PUSH ROD»(/ford/tempo/i-1983-1994/remont/mechanical-hydraulic/#disc-drum__brake-booster-push-rod) under ADJUSTMENTS.
Disassembly
With caliper assembly removed from vehicle, pad interior of caliper with shop cloths. Apply compressed air to caliper inlet port to remove piston. If piston is seized, lightly tap around piston while applying air pressure. Remove dust boot from caliper. Using a plastic or wooden tool to prevent scratching caliper bore, remove piston seal from caliper groove.
Cleaning & Inspection
Clean all parts with denatured alcohol or clean brake fluid and dry with compressed air. Clean out and dry all grooves and passages with compressed air. Inspect piston and caliper bore for wear, pitting, scoring, nicks or corrosion. Replace components as necessary.
Reassembly
Apply a film of clean brake fluid to new piston seal and dust boot and install into caliper bore. Coat piston with clean brake fluid and install into caliper bore. Seat dust boot in piston groove. Spread dust boot over piston.
- Mount caliper in vise. Using Piston Turning Tool (T75P-2588-B), rotate piston counterclockwise and remove piston from caliper. Remove and discard piston dust boot seal and piston seal from caliper bore. Using snap ring pliers, remove snap ring retaining push rod assembly from caliper. CAUTION: Snap ring and spring cover are under spring load. Care should be taken when removing snap ring.
- Remove spring cover, spring washer, key plate and pull out push rod and strut pin. Remove and discard "O" ring seal from push rod. Remove parking brake lever return spring. Unscrew parking brake lever stop bolt and pull parking brake lever out of caliper housing.
Clean all metal parts with isopropyl alcohol. Use clean dry compressed air to clean out grooves and passages. Ensure caliper bore and component parts are completely free of any foreign material. Inspect caliper bores for damage or excessive wear. If piston is pitted, scored or plating is worn off, replace piston assembly.
- Lightly grease parking brake lever bore and lever shaft seal with Silicone Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A). Press parking brake lever shaft seal into caliper bore. Grease parking brake shaft recess and parking brake lever shaft. Insert shaft into bore in caliper housing.
- Screw lever stop bolt into caliper housing. Tighten to 54-84 INCH lbs. (6-9.5 N.m). Attach parking brake lever return spring to stop bolt and insert free end into parking brake lever slot. Install new "O" ring in groove of push rod. Grease recess at push rod end with Silicone Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A).
- Position strut pin into caliper housing on recess of parking brake lever shaft. Insert push rod into push rod bore of caliper housing. Ensure pin is positioned correctly between shaft recess and recess at end of pushrod.
- Place key plate over push rod so locating recess fits into drilled locating hole in caliper housing. Install flat washer, push rod, spring and spring cover in order. Insert outer spacer and inner spacer into piston bore.
- Place snap ring inside of inner spacer. Position spring compressor and screw crossblock on pushrod. see scheme 12 Lightly compress spring until snap ring clicks into position, DO NOT over compress spring.
- Lubricating new piston seal with brake fluid and install in groove in piston bore. Coat piston and piston dust boot with clean brake fluid and install into piston bore.
- Spread dust boot over piston and seat in piston groove. Using Piston Turning Tool (T75P-2588-B), rotate piston clockwise until piston is fully seated. Ensure one slot in piston face is positioned so it will engage with alignment protrusion on brake pad shoe. Install caliper assembly.
Scheme 11
Scheme 12
- With caliper removed, remove parking brake cable bracket and caliper end retainer. Lift out operating shaft, thrust bearing and balls. Using magnet or tweezers, remove thrust screw anti-rotation pin.
- Remove thrust screw by rotating counterclockwise with a 1/4 " Allen wrench. Remove piston adjuster assembly by installing Piston Turning Tool (T75P-2588-B) through back of caliper housing and push piston out. CAUTION: Use care not to damage polished surface in thrust screw bore, do not press or attempt to move adjuster can, it is a press fit in piston.
- Remove and discard piston seal, boot, thrust screw "C" ring seal, end retainer "O" ring seal, end retainer lip seal and pin insulators.
- Clean all metal parts with isopropyl alcohol. Use clean dry compressed air to clean out and dry grooves and passages. Ensure caliper bore and component parts are free of any foreign material.
- Inspect caliper bores for damage. Thrust screw bore must be smooth and free of pits. If piston is pitted, scored or chrome plating is worn off, replace piston adjuster assembly.
- The adjuster can must be bottomed in piston to be properly seated and provide consistent brake function. If adjuster can is loose in piston, appears high in piston, is damaged or if brake adjustment is regularly too tight, too loose, or non-functioning, replace piston adjuster assembly. NOTE: Do not attempt to service adjuster at anytime. When service is necessary, replace piston adjuster assembly.
- Check adjuster operation by first assembling thrust screw into piston adjuster assembly, pulling 2 pieces apart by hand approximately 1/4" (6.35 mm), and then releasing them.
- When pulling apart piston adjuster assembly and thrust screw, brass drive ring must remain stationary causing nut to rotate. When releasing piston adjuster assembly and thrust screw, nut must remain stationary with brass drive ring rotating. If components do not function properly, replace piston adjuster assembly.
- Inspect all parts for damage and replace if necessary. Lightly sand or wire brush any rust or corrosion from caliper housing insulator bores.
- Apply a coat of clean brake fluid to new caliper piston seal and install in cylinder bore. Ensure seal is not twisted and is seated fully in the groove. Install new dust boot by seating the flange squarely in outer groove of caliper bore.
- Coat piston adjuster assembly with clean brake fluid, and install in cylinder bore. Spread dust boot over piston and seat in piston groove. Mount caliper in a vise. Fill piston adjuster assembly with clean brake fluid to bottom edge of thrust screw bore.
- Coat a new thrust screw "O" ring seal with clean brake fluid and install in groove in thrust screw. Using 1/4" Allen wrench, install thrust screw by turning into piston adjuster assembly until top surface of thrust screw is flush with bottom of threads bore. Use care to avoid cutting "O" ring seal.
- Index thrust screw, so that notches on thrust screw and caliper housing are aligned. Install anti-rotation pin. NOTE: Thrust screw and operating shaft are not interchangeable from side-to-side because of ramp direction in ball packets. Pocket surface of operating shaft and thrust screw are stamped with proper letter (R or L), indicating part usage.
- Place a ball in each of three pockets of thrust screw, and apply a liberal amount of Silicone Dielectric Grease (D7AZ-19A331-A), on all components in parking brake mechanism.
- Install operating shaft on balls. Install thrust bearing on operating shaft. Install new lip seal and "O" ring on end retainer. Coat "O" ring seal and lip seal with a light film of silicone grease. Install end retainer in caliper.
- Hold operating shaft firmly seated against internal mechanism while installing end retainer to prevent mislocation of balls. If lip seal is pushed out of position, reseat seal. Tighten end retainer to 75-95 ft. lbs. (101-103 N.m).
- Install parking brake lever on keyed spline so lever arm points down and rearward, allowing parking brake cable to pass freely under axle. Tighten lever retaining screw to 16-22 ft. lbs. (22-29 N.m). Ensure parking brake lever rotates freely after tightening.
- Arrange caliper in a vise and bottom piston with Piston Turning Tool (T75P-2588-B). Install new pin insulator in caliper housing. Ensure both insulator flanges straddle housing holes. Install caliper on vehicle.
- Clean outside of master cylinder. Remove caps or cover/diaphragm assembly. Remove brake fluid level indicator (if equipped). Pump and drain all brake fluid from master cylinder. Clamp master cylinder in vise by mounting flange. Remove plastic reservoir and grommets on 2-piece master cylinders.
- Discard reservoir assembly used on Ford Motor Co. diagonal split master cylinder. Remove fluid control valve using a 12 mm socket on Ford Motor Co. diagonal split master cylinder. (Scheme 14)
- Press primary and secondary piston inward until fully bottomed. Remove stop screw on Corvette master cylinder.
- Press primary piston inward and remove stop bolt (if equipped). Press primary piston inward and remove snap ring. Remove primary piston assembly. Apply compressed air to furthest back bleeder screw hole and remove secondary piston assembly.
Scheme 13
- Wash master cylinder body, bore and piston assemblies with denatured or isopropyl alcohol. Inspect piston assemblies and return springs. Replace pistons if they are scored galled, worn, cracked or broken. Replace springs if they are broken, bent, collapsed, distorted or fatigued.
- Inspect tube seat inserts in outlet ports. Replace if they are cracked, scored, loose, cocked or worn. If removal kits are not available, replace by using spiral easy-out.
- Remove check valve and spring from drum brake outlet (if equipped). Inspect cylinder bore for scoring, corrosion or wear. Aluminum master cylinders are anodized. Wear on the anodized surface, as evidenced by lighter areas, is normal.
- Use crocus cloth to polish out light corrosion on cast iron master cylinders. Replace master cylinder if bore does not clean up using crocus cloth. Aluminum master cylinders may not be polished and must be replaced.
- Inspect compensator and by-pass ports at bottom of reservoir. If they are plugged or dirty, clean them using brake cleaning solvent and compressed air only.
| CAUTION | Do not install check valve in disc brake outlet, as this will cause disc brakes to lock up. |
Scheme 14
- Install check valve and spring in drum brake outlet (if removed). Using a spare tubing nut, press tube seat insert into place (if removed). Turn nut until tube seat insert bottoms. Remove nut and inspect outlet for burrs or shavings.
- Coat bore of cylinder and piston assemblies with clean brake fluid. Install secondary and primary piston assemblies into bore. Press primary piston inward and install snap ring. Press primary piston inward and install stop bolt (if equipped). Install push rod (if equipped).
- Install fluid control valve using a 12 mm socket on Ford Motor Co. diagonal split master cylinder.
- Install proportioning valves, failure warning switch and switch piston assembly on General Motors diagonal split master cylinder.
- On 2-piece master cylinders, lubricate grommets with clean brake fluid and install in master cylinder making sure that they are properly seated. Place reservoir on hard surface and install plastic reservoir with a rocking motion.
- Fill reservoir with clean brake fluid and bleed master cylinder.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
| Application | Ft. Lbs. (N.m) | |
|---|---|---|
| Brake Booster-to-Dash | 12-26 (16-35) | |
| Brake Line-to-Master Cylinder | 10-18 (14-24) | |
| Brake Booster Cowl Intrusion Bolt | 13-25 (18-34) | |
| Brake Hose-to-Caliper | ||
| FWD Models | 35 (47) | |
| RWD Models | 25 (34) | |
| Brake Hose-to-Tube | ||
| RWD Models | 14 (19) | |
| Caliper Locating Pins | ||
| FWD Models | 22 (29) | |
| RWD Models | 50 (68) | |
| Master Cylinder-to-Brake Booster | 13-25 (18-34) | |
| Master Cylinder-to-Firewall | 13-25 (18-34) | |
| Splash Shield Nuts | ||
| RWD Models | 12 (16) | |
| Wheel Lug Nuts | ||
| FWD Models | 80-105 (109-143) | |
| RWD Models | 93 (126) | |
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DISC BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS
| Application | In. (mm) | |
|---|---|---|
| Continental | ||
| Disc Diameter | 10.16 (258.1) | |
| Lateral Runout | .002 (.05) | |
| Parallelism | .0004 (.010) | |
| Original Thickness | 1.02 (26.0) | |
| Discard Thickness | .974 (24.75) | |
| Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis & Town Car | ||
| Disc Diameter | 11.08 (281.4) | |
| Lateral Runout | .003 (.08) | |
| Parallelism | .0005 (.013) | |
| Original Thickness | 1.03 (26.2) | |
| Discard Thickness | .972 (24.70) | |
| EXP & Lynx | ||
| Disc Diameter | 9.25 (235.0) | |
| Lateral Runout | .002 (.05) | |
| Parallelism | .0004 (.010) | |
| Original Thickness | .945 (24.0) | |
| Discard Thickness | .882 (22.4) | |
| Escort, Tempo & Topaz | ||
| Disc Diameter | 9.25 (235.0) | |
| Lateral Runout | .003 (.08) | |
| Parallelism | .0005 (.013) | |
| Original Thickness | .945 (24.0) | |
| Discard Thickness | .882 (22.4) | |
| Mark VII, Mustang (5.0L) & Thunderbird (2.3L Turbo) | ||
| Disc Diameter | 10.91 (277.1) | |
| Lateral Runout | .003 (.08) | |
| Parallelism | .0005 (.013) | |
| Original Thickness | 1.03 (26.2) | |
| Discard Thickness | .972 (24.7) | |
| Sable & Taurus | ||
| Disc Diameter | 10.16 (258.0) | |
| Lateral Runout | .003 (.08) | |
| Parallelism | .0005 (.013) | |
| Original Thickness | .945 (24.0) | |
| Discard Thickness | .896 (22.75) | |
| All Others | ||
| Disc Diameter | 10.08 (256.0) | |
| Lateral Runout | .003 (.08) | |
| Parallelism | (1) .0005 (.013) | |
| Original Thickness | .870 (22.1) | |
| Discard Thickness | .810 (20.6) | |
| (1) LTD and Marquis models parallelism specification is .0003" (.008 mm). | ||
| (1) | LTD and Marquis models parallelism specification is .0003" (.008 mm). |
DISC BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS - FRONT
| Application | In. (mm) | |
|---|---|---|
| Continental & Mark VII | ||
| Disc Diameter | 10.66 (270.8) | |
| Lateral Runout | .004 (.10) | |
| Parallelism | .0005 (.013) | |
| Original Thickness | .945 (24.0) | |
| Discard Thickness | .895 (22.7) | |
| Thunderbird (2.3L Turbo) | ||
| Disc Diameter | 10.16 (258.0) | |
| Lateral Runout | .003 (.08) | |
| Parallelism | .0005 (.013) | |
| Original Thickness | .945 (24.0) | |
| Discard Thickness | .895 (22.7) | |
DISC BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS - REAR
DRUM BRAKE SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS
| Application | In. (mm) | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Escort | |||
| Drum Diameter | 7.00 (180.0) | ||
| Drum Width | 1.26 (32.0) | ||
| Max. Drum Refinish Diam. | 7.06 (181.5) | ||
| Wheel Cyl. Diameter | .811 (20.59) | ||
| Master Cyl. Diameter | .827 (21.01) | ||
| Escort EXP, Tempo, Topaz | |||
| Drum Diameter | 8.00 (203.2) | ||
| Drum Width | 1.34 (34.0) | ||
| Max. Drum Refinish Diam. | 8.06 (204.7) | ||
| Wheel Cyl. Diameter | .875 (22.23) | ||
| Master Cyl. Diameter | .827 (21.01) | ||
| Sable, Taurus | |||
| Sedan | |||
| Drum Diameter | 8.85 (225.0) | ||
| Drum Width | 1.49 (38.0) | ||
| Max. Drum Refinish Diam. | 8.92 (226.5) | ||
| Wheel Cyl. Diameter | 1.000 (25.4) | ||
| Master Cyl. Diameter | .875 (22.23) | ||
| Wagon | |||
| Drum Diameter | 9.84 (250.0) | ||
| Drum Width | 1.77 (45.0) | ||
| Max. Drum Refinish Diam. | 9.90 (251.5) | ||
| Wheel Cyl. Diameter | 1.0 (25.4) | ||
| Master Cyl. Diameter | .875 (22.23) | ||
| Cougar, Thunderbird, Mustang | |||
| Standard | |||
| Drum Diameter | 9.00 (229.0) | ||
| Drum Width | 1.75 (44.5) | ||
| Max. Drum Refinish Diam. | 9.06 (230.1) | ||
| Wheel Cyl. Diameter | .750 (19.05) | ||
| Master Cyl. Diameter | .827 (21.01) | ||
| Heavy Duty (1) | |||
| Drum Diameter | 10.00 (254.0) | ||
| Drum Width | 1.75 (44.5) | ||
| Max. Drum Refinish Diam. | 10.06 (255.5) | ||
| Wheel Cyl. Diameter | .750 (19.05) | ||
| Master Cyl. Diameter | .827 (21.01) | ||
| Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis, Town Car | |||
| Standard | |||
| Drum Diameter | 10.00 (254.0) | ||
| Drum Width | 2.50 (63.5) | ||
| Max. Drum Refinish Diam. | 10.06 (255.5) | ||
| Wheel Cyl. Diameter | .938 (23.8) | ||
| Master Cyl. Diameter | 1.00 (25.40) | ||
| Heavy Duty (1) | |||
| Drum Diameter | 11.03 (280.2) | ||
| Drum Width | 2.25 (57.2) | ||
| Max. Drum Refinish Diam. | 11.09 (281.7) | ||
| Wheel Cyl. Diameter | .938 (23.8) | ||
| Master Cyl. Diameter | 1.00 (25.40) | ||
| (1) Heavy duty models are station wagons, police, taxi and trailer tow. | |||
| (1) | Heavy duty models are station wagons, police, taxi and trailer tow. |
DRUM BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS