Engine System-General Information: Diagnosis Ford Econoline E250

Compression Test - Compression Gauge Check

1. Make sure the oil in the crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at the correct level and that the battery is correctly charged. Operate the vehicle until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then remove all the spark plugs.
2. Set the throttle plates in the wide-open position.
3. Install a compression gauge such as the Compression Tester in the No. 1 cylinder.
4. Install an auxiliary starter switch in the starting circuit. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, and using the auxiliary starter switch, crank the engine a minimum of five compression strokes and record the highest reading. Note the approximate number of compression strokes required to obtain the highest reading.
5. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes.

Compression Test - Test Results

The indicated compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is at least 75 percent of the highest reading. Refer to the Compression Pressure Limit Chart.

TABLE COMPRESSION PRESSURE LIMIT CHART

COMPRESSION PRESSURE LIMIT

If one or more cylinders reads low, squirt approximately one tablespoon of engine oil on top of the pistons in the low-reading cylinders. Repeat the compression pressure check on these cylinders.

Compression Test - Interpreting Compression Readings

1. If compression improves considerably, piston rings are faulty.
2. If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or seating incorrectly.
3. If two adjacent cylinders indicate low compression pressures and squirting oil on each piston does not increase compression, the head gasket may be leaking between cylinders. Engine oil or coolant in cylinders could result from this condition. Use the Compression Pressure Limit Chart when checking cylinder compression so that the lowest reading is within 75 percent of the highest reading.

Oil Consumption Test

The following diagnostic procedure is used to determine the source of excessive internal oil consumption.

1. Define excessive oil consumption, such as the number of miles driven per liter (quart) of oil used. Also determine customer's driving habits, such as sustained high speed operation, towing, extended idle and other considerations.
2. Verify that the engine has no external oil leak as described under «Engine Oil Leaks»(ref-210133-S37672440892005121300000) .
3. Verify that the engine has the correct oil level dipstick.
4. Verify that the engine is not being run in an overfilled condition. Check the oil level at least five minutes after a hot shutdown with the vehicle parked on a level surface. In no case should the level be above MAX or the letter F in FULL. If significantly overfilled, carry out Steps 6 a through 6 d .
5. Verify the spark plugs are not oil saturated. If the spark plugs are oil saturated and compression is good it can be assumed the valve seals or valve guides are at fault.
6. Carry out an oil consumption test: Drain the engine oil, remove the oil bypass filter and refill with one liter (quart) less than the recommended amount. Run the engine for three minutes (10 minutes if cold), and allow the oil to drain back for at least five minutes with the vehicle on a level surface. Remove oil level dipstick and wipe clean. (Do not wipe with anything contaminated with silicone compounds.) Reinstall the oil level dipstick, being sure to seat it firmly in the oil level indicator tube. Remove the oil level dipstick and draw a mark on the back (unmarked) surface at the indicated oil level. This level should be about the same as the MIN or ADD mark on the face of the oil level dipstick. Add one liter (quart) of oil. Restart the engine and allow to idle for at least two minutes. Shut off the engine and allow the oil to drain back for at least five minutes. Mark the oil level dipstick, using the procedure above. Record the vehicle mileage. Instruct the customer to drive the vehicle as usual and perform the following: Check the oil level regularly at intervals of 160 to 240 km (100-150 miles). Return to the service point when the oil level drops below the lower (MIN or ADD) mark on the oil level dipstick. Add only full liters (quarts) of the same oil in an emergency. Note the mileage at which the oil is added. Check the oil level under the same conditions and at the same location as in Steps 6 c and 6 d . Measure the distance from the oil level to the UPPER mark on the oil level dipstick and record. Measure the distance between the two scribe marks and record. Divide the first measurement by the second. Divide the distance driven during the oil test by the result. This quantity is the approximate oil consumption rate in kilometers per liter or in miles per quart. If the oil consumption rate is unacceptable, go to Step 7.
7. Check the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. Make sure the system is not plugged.
8. Check for plugged oil drain-back holes in the cylinder heads and cylinder block.
9. If the condition still exists after performing the above steps, go to Step 10.
10. Perform a cylinder compression test or perform a cylinder leak detection test with Engine Cylinder Leak Detection/Air Pressurization Kit. This can help determine the source of oil consumption such as valves, piston rings or other areas.
11. Check valve guides for excessive guide clearance. Install new all valve stem seals after verifying valve guide clearance.
12. Worn or damaged internal engine components can cause excessive oil consumption. Small deposits of oil on the tips of spark plugs can be a clue to internal oil consumption. If internal oil consumption still persists, proceed as follows: Remove the engine from the vehicle and place it on an engine work stand. Remove the intake manifold, cylinder heads, oil pan and oil pump. Check piston ring clearance, ring gap and ring orientation. Repair as necessary. Check for excessive bearing clearance. Repair as necessary.
13. Repeat the oil consumption test (Step 6 ) to confirm that the oil consumption concern has been resolved.

Intake Manifold Vacuum Test

Bring the engine to normal operating temperature. Connect the Vacuum/Pressure Tester to the intake manifold. Run the engine at the specified idle speed.

The vacuum gauge should read between 51-74 kPa (15-22 in-Hg) depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed. Subtract 4.0193 kPa (1 in-Hg) from the specified reading for every 304.8 m (1,000 feet) of elevation above sea level.

The reading should be steady. If necessary, adjust the gauge damper control (where used) if the needle is fluttering rapidly. Adjust the damper until the needle moves easily without excessive flutter.

Intake Manifold Vacuum Test - Interpreting Vacuum Gauge Readings

A careful study of the vacuum gauge reading while the engine is idling will help pinpoint trouble areas. Always conduct other appropriate tests before arriving at a final diagnostic decision. Vacuum gauge readings, although helpful, must be interpreted carefully.

Most vacuum gauges have a normal band indicated on the gauge face.

The following are potential gauge readings. Some are normal; others should be investigated further.

Scheme 6

1. NORMAL READING: Needle between 51-74 kPa (15-22 in-Hg) and holding steady.
2. NORMAL READING DURING RAPID ACCELERATION AND DECELERATION: When the engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), the needle will drop to a low reading (not to zero). When the throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.
3. NORMAL FOR HIGH-LIFT CAMSHAFT WITH LARGE OVERLAP: The needle will register as low as 51 kPa (15 in-Hg) but will be relatively steady. Some oscillation is normal.
4. WORN RINGS OR DILUTED OIL: When the engine is accelerated (dotted needle), the needle drops to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). Upon deceleration, the needle runs slightly above 74 kPa (22 in-Hg).
5. STICKING VALVES: When the needle (dotted) remains steady at a normal vacuum but occasionally flicks (sharp, fast movement) down and back about 13 kPa (4 in-Hg), one or more valves may be sticking.
6. BURNED OR WARPED VALVES: A regular, evenly-spaced, downscale flicking of the needle indicates one or more burned or warped valves. Insufficient hydraulic lash adjuster or hydraulic lash adjuster (HLA) clearance will also cause this reaction.
7. POOR VALVE SEATING: A small but regular downscale flicking can mean one or more valves are not seating.
8. WORN VALVE GUIDES: When the needle oscillates over about a 13 kPa (4 in-Hg) range at idle speed, the valve guides could be worn. As engine speed increases, the needle will become steady if guides are responsible.
9. WEAK VALVE SPRINGS: When the needle oscillation becomes more violent as engine RPM is increased, weak valve springs are indicated. The reading at idle could be relatively steady.
10. LATE VALVE TIMING: A steady but low reading could be caused by late valve timing.
11. IGNITION TIMING RETARDING: Retarded ignition timing will produce a steady but somewhat low reading.
12. INSUFFICIENT SPARK PLUG GAP: When spark plugs are gapped too close, a regular, small pulsation of the needle can occur.
13. INTAKE LEAK: A low, steady reading can be caused by an intake manifold or throttle body gasket leak.
14. BLOWN HEAD GASKET: A regular drop of fair magnitude can be caused by a blown head gasket or warped cylinder head-to-cylinder block surface.
15. RESTRICTED EXHAUST SYSTEM: When the engine is first started and is idled, the reading may be normal, but as the engine RPM is increased, the back pressure caused by a clogged muffler, kinked tail pipe or other concerns will cause the needle to slowly drop to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). The needle then may slowly rise. Excessive exhaust clogging will cause the needle to drop to a low point even if the engine is only idling.
16. When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the cause. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause concerns such as rough idle, missing on acceleration or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit such as the power brake booster, the unit will not function correctly. Always fix vacuum leaks.

Oil Pressure Test

1. Disconnect and remove the oil pressure sensor from the engine.
2. Connect the Oil Pressure Gauge to the oil pressure sender oil galley port.
3. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached.
4. Run the engine at the specified RPM and record the gauge reading.
5. The oil pressure should be within specifications; Refer to the appropriate ENGINE MECHANICAL article.
6. If the pressure is not within specification, check the following possible sources: Insufficient oil Oil leakage Worn or damaged oil pump Oil pump screen cover and tube Excessive main bearing clearance Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance

Piston Inspection

SPECIAL TOOL(S)

Scheme 7

Scheme 8

Scheme 9

1. Clean and inspect the (1) ring lands, (2) skirts, (3) pin bosses, and the (4) tops of the pistons. If wear marks, scores or glazing is found on the piston skirt, check for a bent or twisted connecting rod.
2. Use the Piston Ring Groove Scraper to clean the piston ring grooves. Make sure the oil ring holes are clean.

Piston - Pin to Bore Diameter

1. Measure the piston pin bore diameter in two directions on each side. Verify the diameter is within specification. If out of specification, install new components as necessary. Refer to the appropriate ENGINE MECHANICAL article for the procedure.

Scheme 10

1. Measure the piston diameter 90 degrees from the piston pin and 42 mm down from the top of the piston at the point indicated. Refer to the appropriate ENGINE MECHANICAL article for the procedure. If out of specification, install new components as necessary. Refer to the appropriate ENGINE MECHANICAL article for the procedure.

Exhaust Manifold - Inspection

Special Tool(s)

Scheme 11

Scheme 12

1. Place a straight edge across the exhaust manifold flanges and check for warping with a feeler gauge.

Scheme 13

1. Inspect bearings for the following defects. Possible causes are shown: Cratering - fatigue failure. Spot polishing - incorrect seating. Imbedded dirt engine oil. Scratching - dirty engine oil. Base exposed - poor lubrication. Both edges worn - journal damaged. One edge worn - journal tapered or bearing not seated.