Disc & Drum Ford Cab & Chassis Ranger

BENDIX SINGLE DIAPHRAGM BOOSTER

This unit uses engine manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure to assist braking. The vacuum power chamber consists of a front and rear shell, diaphragm, diaphragm plate, push rod, and vacuum diaphragm return spring.

A mechanically actuated power brake unit check valve, integral with the vacuum power diaphragm, controls the degree of brake application and release in accordance with foot pressure applied to check valve operating rod through brake pedal linkage.

BENDIX TANDEM DIAPHRAGM BOOSTER

The power brake unit uses engine manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure to provide power-assisted brake application.

Vacuum power chamber includes front and rear shell, center plate, tandem front and rear diaphragms (with plate assembly), hydraulic push rod and vacuum diaphragm, and diaphragm return spring. A mechanically actuated control valve is integral with diaphragms.

BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM PUMP (DIESEL)

Vacuum is supplied to brake booster on diesel engine models by belt driven vacuum pump mounted on right front of engine. A low-vacuum switch actuates the brake warning light when vacuum is below a specified level.

The switch senses vacuum through a fitting in the intake manifold that intercepts the vacuum flow from the pump. Brake warning light will illuminate until vacuum builds to proper level.

Vacuum pump is not serviceable and must be replaced if found defective.

BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING

Brake system bleeding is necessary any time air has been introduced into brake system. Bleed brakes at all four wheels if master cylinder lines have been disconnected or master cylinder has run dry.

Bleeding may be done either by using pressure bleeding equipment or by manually pumping brake pedal and using bleeder tubes. After bleeding, pressure differential control valve must be centered.

BRAKE WARNING LIGHT SYSTEM

Note. On models equipped with diesel engine, brake warning light will illuminate until proper vacuum level is built up by vacuum pump.

When the parking brake is disengaged, the brake warning light should only illuminate when the ignition switch is in the START position or when front and rear brake system pressure is not equal. When both brake systems are functioning properly, the equal pressure in the pressure differential control valve will keep the valve centered during brake pedal application.

Pressure differential control valve is not serviceable. If valve is defective, it must be replaced as a unit.

DISC BRAKE CALIPERS

All 250 Series (over 6900 GVW) and 350 Series use a dual piston caliper. All other models use a single piston caliper. On all models, caliper is secured to anchor plate by a retaining key and spring. Ventilated rotor is cast with wheel hub. As brake pedal is depressed, fluid from master cylinder passes through the metering valve and into caliper cylinder.

DUAL PISTON MASTER CYLINDER

Ford tandem dual piston master cylinder is a single casting with front and rear piston and a separate reservoir with an outlet for each piston.

Rear piston is operated by a push rod connected to brake pedal. Front, or floating, piston is operated by rear piston.

In a combination drum and disc system, reservoir which feeds disc brakes is larger, to correspond with larger size of disc brake caliper cylinders. Master cylinder outlet which feeds drum brake has a residual valve under tube seat. Disc brake outlet has no valve, since disc brakes must not have any residual pressure.

SINGLE ANCHOR DRUM BRAKES

The single anchor dual servo brake assembly consists of a support plate, 2 brake shoes, return springs, automatic adjuster components, and a wheel cylinder.

The automatic adjuster consists of a cable (with hood and anchor fitting), a cable guide, adjusting lever, adjusting screw, pivot nut, socket and spring.

The adjuster uses movement of the secondary shoe during reverse brake application to turn brake adjusting screw and maintain proper lining-to-drum clearance.

MASTER CYLINDER BLEEDING

Note. Master cylinder can be bled on vehicle or by using bench bleeding method.

On Vehicle Bleeding

1. Loosen one line nut on master cylinder. Wrap shop cloth around tubing below fitting to absorb escaping brake fluid. Depress brake pedal to floor by hand and hold. Tighten fitting.
2. Release brake pedal. Do not release pedal until fitting is tightened or air will re-enter master cylinder. Repeat procedure until air no longer escapes from master cylinder. Repeat process for other line and ensure that brake pedal is firm.

Bench Bleeding

Note. Bleed tubes must have a residual pressure check valve installed to keep tubes from siphoning brake fluid.

1. Clamp master cylinder in vise by mounting flange. Install bleed tubes in outlet ports. Fill reservoir with clean brake fluid so that bleed tubes are below brake fluid level. (Scheme 1)
2. Slowly compress and release piston assemblies until bubbles cease to appear in brake fluid. Remove tubes and plug master cylinder outlets to keep fluid from draining.

Scheme 1

MANUAL BLEEDING

Note. DO NOT allow master cylinder to run dry during bleeding. NEVER reuse brake fluid that has drained from brake system. When bleeding disc brakes, air may tend to cling to caliper walls. Lightly tap caliper while bleeding to aid in removal of air.

1. Attach bleeder hose to right rear wheel cylinder and submerge end of hose in container partially filled with clean brake fluid. Loosen fitting about 3/4 turn and slowly depress brake pedal fully. Close bleeder and release brake pedal. Repeat until fluid is free of air bubbles.
2. Repeat process for left rear wheel cylinder, right front caliper and left front caliper in that order. After completing bleeding procedure, center pressure differential valve by depressing brake pedal fully.

PRESSURE BLEEDING

Note. NEVER reuse brake fluid that has drained from brake system. Ensure bleeder tank has sufficient fluid to complete bleeding procedure. DO NOT exceed 50 psi of pressure in tank.

1. On power brake equipped vehicles, release vacuum from booster by depressing brake pedal several times. Clean master cylinder cap and surrounding area. Remove cap. With pressure tank at least 1/2 full, connect to master cylinder with adapters. Attach bleeder hose to right rear wheel cylinder.
2. Place other end of hose in clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid so end of hose is submerged in fluid. Open release valve on pressure bleeder. Follow equipment manufacturers pressure instructions unless noted below.
3. Unscrew bleeder valve 3/4-1 turn noting fluid flow. When fluid flowing from cylinder to jar is free of bubbles, close bleeder valve securely. Bleed left rear, right front and left front in that order and in the same manner. Center pressure differential valve by depressing brake pedal fully.

PRESSURE BLEEDER SETTINGS

BLEEDING SEQUENCE

BLEEDING SEQUENCE

BRAKE PEDAL

Brake pedal adjustments are not required. Brake pedal free-travel will not be correct if power brake booster push rod clearance is not correct. Adjust as necessary.

Note. Pedal free-travel will not be correct if power brake booster push rod clearance is not correct. See POWER BRAKE BOOSTER PUSH ROD under ADJUSTMENTS

Scheme 2

Scheme 3

1. Adjustment is made with brake drums at room temperature and parking brakes correctly adjusted. Measure inside diameter of brake drum with brake shoe adjustment gauge. (Scheme 2)
2. Reverse tool and apply to brake shoes on a line parallel to ground, and through center of axle. Hold automatic adjuster lever away from adjusting screw and turn screw until outside diameter of shoes contacts gauge. (Scheme 3)
3. Install brake drum and wheel assembly. Complete adjustment by applying brakes several times while driving vehicle in reverse. Check brake operation by making several stops while driving forward.

CENTERING PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL CONTROL VALVE

1. After repairs or bleeding of either primary or secondary brake system, the brake warning light will usually remain on because the pressure differential control valve is in an off-center position.
2. Ensure brake fluid level in master cylinder is within 1/4 inch of top of reservoir. Turn ignition switch to the ACC or ON position. Depress brake pedal and valve piston will center itself causing warning light to go out.

DISC PADS

Pad wear is automatically compensated for by piston sliding outward in cylinder bore; therefore, no disc pad adjustment is required. Replace pads if lining thickness is 1/32" (.79 mm) or less. Always replace both sets of brake pads. Never service one wheel only.

PARKING BRAKE

Note. If front brake cable tension limiting device is replaced, initial adjustment procedures must be performed before adjusting cable. If tensioner is not replaced, initial adjustment is not required.

Initial Adjustment (Foot Pedal Actuated)

Depress parking brake pedal. Grip tension limiter bracket to prevent it from spinning. Tighten equalizer nut 2 1/2" up the rod. Check to make sure the cinch strap has slipped so that less than 1 3/8" remains exposed.

Final Adjustment

1. Adjust service brakes before adjusting parking brake cable. Ensure brake drums are cold.
2. Position parking brake pedal to the fully depressed position. Grip tension limiter housing to prevent it from spinning. Tighten equalizer nut 6 full turns past its original position.
3. Check cable tension at rear of equalizer assembly using Cable Tension Gauge (021-00018). Bronco II and Ranger tension should be 400-600 lbs. (182-272 kg) and 350 lbs. (159 kg) for all others. If tension is low, repeat step 2).
4. Release pedal and check rear wheel drag. If drag is noted on all models, except Bronco II and Ranger, remove drums and check for clearance between parking brake lever and cam plate.
5. Clearance should be .015" (.38 mm) with brakes fully released. If clearance is incorrect, readjust parking brake cable.

Initial Adjustment (E350 W/Orscheln Lever Actuated)

1. Adjust service brakes before adjusting parking brake cables. Turn parking brake handle adjustment knob fully clockwise and apply parking brake.
2. Grip tension limiter housing to prevent it from spinning. Tighten equalizer nut 2 1/2" up the rod. Check to make sure the cinch strap has slipped so that less than 1 3/8" remains exposed.
3. Release parking brake lever. Turn adjustment knob counterclockwise. Install Cable Tension Gauge (021-00018) on cable, 2 1/2" behind equalizer. Apply parking brake, cable tension should be a minimum of 350 lbs. (159 kg). If tension is incorrect, repeat procedure.

1. Adjust service brakes and ensure brake drums are cold. Apply parking brake. Grip tension limiter housing to prevent it from spinning. Tighten equalizer nut until front cable tension measures 350 lbs. (159 kg).
2. Release and reapply parking brake. Check that front cable tension is at least 310 lbs. (141 kg). Release pedal and check rear wheel drag.
3. If drag is noted, remove drums and check for clearance between parking brake lever and cam plate. Clearance should be .015" (.38 mm) with brakes fully released. If clearance is incorrect, readjust parking brake cable.

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER PUSH ROD

Check distance from outer end of push rod to front face of unit using a locally manufactured gauge. (Scheme 4) Turn push rod screw in or out until length is.980"-.995" (24.9-25.3 mm).

Scheme 4

VACUUM PUMP DRIVE BELT TENSION (DIESEL)

Loosen vacuum pump adjustment bolt and pivot bolt. Insert 3/8 inch drive breaker bar or ratchet in adjustment plate slot. Lift up on assembly until belt tension reaches specification. See VACUUM PUMP BELT TENSION SPECIFICATIONS table. Tighten adjustment bolt and pivot bolt to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 N.m) on 2.2L engine or 11-18 ft. lbs. (15-25 N.m) on 6.9L engine.

VACUUM PUMP BELT TENSION SPECIFICATIONS (DIESEL)

WHEEL BEARINGS (2WD)

Tighten nut to 22-25 ft. lbs. (30-33 N.m) while turning rotor. Back off adjusting nut 1/8 turn. Install retainer and cotter pin without loosening nut any more. Bearing end play should be .001-.010" (.025-.254 mm).

WHEEL BEARINGS (4WD BRONCO II & RANGER)

1. Raise the vehicle and support with safety stands. Remove wheel lug nuts and remove the wheel and tire. Remove retainer washers from the lug studs and remove the manual locking hub from the spindle.
2. Remove the axle shaft spacer, needle thrust bearing and the bearing spacer. Remove the outer wheel bearing lock nut from the spindle using Four-Prong Spindle Nut Spanner Wrench (T83T-1197-A). Ensure the tabs on the wrench engage the slots in the lock nut.
3. Remove the lock nut washer from the spindle. Loosen the inner wheel bearing lock nut using spanner wrench. Ensure that the tabs of the wrench engage the slots in the lock nut and that the slot in the wrench is over the pin on the lock nut.
4. Tighten the inner lock nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 N.m) to seat the bearings. Spin the rotor and back-off the inner lock nut 1/4 turn. Install the lock washer on the spindle. It may be necessary to turn the inner lock nut so the pin on the lock nut aligns with the closest hole in the lock washer.
5. Install the outer wheel bearing lock nut using spanner wrench. Tighten lock nut to 150 ft. lbs (203 N.m). Install the bearing thrust spacer, needle bearing and axle shaft spacer.
6. Clip the snap ring onto the end of the spindle. Install the manual hub over the spindle. Install the retainer washers. Install the tire and wheel and tighten lug nuts to 85-115 ft. lbs. (115-155 N.m).
7. Check the end play of the wheel and tire on the spindle. End play should be 0.001-0.003" (0.02-0.08 mm). (Scheme 5) Install locking hub assembly.

Scheme 5

WHEEL BEARINGS (4WD BRONCO & F-150)

1. Raise and support vehicle on safety stands. Remove hub lock assembly from spindle. See LOCKING HUBS under «REMOVAL & INSTALLATION»(/ford/cab-chassis-ranger/1985-1986/remont/mechanical-hydraulic/#disc-drum__removal-installation) in this article.
2. Using Spanner Socket (T59T-1197-B), and a torque wrench, tighten the bearing inner adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 N.m). while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearing.
3. Back-off adjusting nut approximately 45°. Assemble lock washer by turning inner lock nut to nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock, install the outer lock nut and tighten to 150 ft. lbs. (203 N.m).
4. Final end play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.00-0.006" (0.00-0.15 mm). Install automatic locking hub. Remove safety stands and lower vehicle. (Scheme 7)

Scheme 6

LATERAL RUNOUT

1. Tighten spindle nut to eliminate bearing end play. Ensure that rotor can be turned. Install and tighten lug nuts. Attach dial indicator on suspension, with indicator tip on face of rotor.
2. Set dial indicator to zero, slowly turn rotor, and note high and low readings on dial. Runout must not exceed specifications.
3. Resurface or replace rotor as required. A maximum of .020" (.51 mm) material may be taken off each side of braking surface. Cuts must be of equal depth on both sides of rotor.

PARALLELISM

Using a micrometer, measure rotor thickness at 12 points approximately 30° apart, and at 1" (25 mm) from outer edge of rotor. Runout must not exceed specifications. Resurface or replace rotor as required

Scheme 7

1. Block wheels and apply parking brake. Disconnect low vacuum switch (if equipped). Place automatic transmission in Park or manual transmission in Neutral. Start and run engine at idle. Disconnect vacuum pump hose from brake booster and install vacuum gauge. (Scheme 7)
2. Minimum vacuum gauge reading should be 21 in. Hg at sea level, within 30 seconds. For higher altitudes, compensate vacuum reading according to graph. (Scheme 7) If vacuum reading is correct, go to step 4).
3. If vacuum reading is low or fluctuating, check gauge and connections for leaks. If pump is belt driven, check belt tension and pulley fit to shaft. Check idle speed. Recheck vacuum pump. If vacuum reading is still low, replace vacuum pump. If vacuum pump is now okay, go to next step.
4. Reconnect vacuum hose with a "T" fitting and vacuum gauge located near pump inlet. (Scheme 8) With engine idling, vacuum may be 3 in. Hg less than that measured in step 1).
5. If vacuum reading is correct, remaining problems are not in vacuum system. If vacuum reading is lower than specified, check hoses for leaks and repair as necessary. If vacuum reading is still low, check vacuum accessories for leaks. Repair or replace as necessary.

Scheme 8

Note. On models equipped with diesel engine, brake warning light will illuminate until proper vacuum level is built up by vacuum pump. Ensure vacuum level is reached before testing brake warning light system.

1. When the parking brake is disengaged, the brake warning light should only illuminate when the ignition switch is in the START position or when front and rear brake system pressure is not equal. When both brake systems are functioning properly, the equal pressure in the pressure differential control valve will keep the valve centered during brake pedal application.
2. Turn ignition switch to ACC or ON position. If brake warning light remains on, there may be a shorted or broken parking brake or pressure differential switch, grounded switch wires, or an un-centered pressure differential control valve. See «CENTERING PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL CONTROL VALVE»(/ford/cab-chassis-ranger/1985-1986/remont/mechanical-hydraulic/#disc-drum__centering-pressure-differential-control-valve) under ADJUSTMENTS. If warning light remains on after centering valve, check for grounded switch connector or wire and repair as necessary.
3. Turn ignition switch to START position. If warning light does not light, check light and wiring and repair as necessary. If warning light does not illuminate when pressure is unequal between both brake systems, check for burned out bulb, inoperative switch or open in switch to light wiring. Repair as necessary.

Removal

1. Disconnect stop light switch to prevent discharging battery. Support master cylinder. Remove clutch master cylinder, if used. Remove nuts securing master cylinder.
2. Loosen clamp that secures vacuum hose to power brake unit check valve and remove hose. Remove check valve. Pull master cylinder off power brake unit, far enough away to allow removal of power brake unit.
3. From inside cab, remove pin, spacers, and bushing securing push rod and stop light switch to brake pedal. Remove nuts securing power brake unit and remove.

Installation

1. Prior to installing power brake unit ensure that booster rubber reaction disc is properly installed. (Scheme 9) If the master cylinder push rod is removed or accidentally pulled out, a dislodged disc may cause excessive pedal travel.
2. The reaction disc is Black compared to the Silver-colored valve plunger that will be exposed if push rod and seat are removed. To install power brake unit, reverse removal procedure. Start engine and check brake operation.

Note. Booster must be replaced if reaction disc cannot be properly installed and aligned, or if it cannot be located within the unit itself.

Scheme 9

Note. Power brake unit can be removed without disconnecting brake lines at master cylinder.

1. Disconnect vacuum line from check valve or power unit. Remove nuts securing master cylinder to power unit. Pull master cylinder forward away from unit.
2. Disconnect stop lamp switch from push rod on brake pedal. Disconnect push rod from brake pedal.
3. On all models, remove power brake unit mounting bolts. Remove unit from vehicle.

To install, reverse removal procedures. Before attaching master cylinder, check push rod for correct length.

DISC BRAKE CALIPER & PADS (SINGLE PISTON CALIPER)

Note. Always replace both sets of brake pads together. Never service one wheel only.

1. To prevent master cylinder overflow when caliper is depressed, remove a small amount of brake fluid from master cylinder. Raise vehicle and support with safety stands.
2. Remove front wheel assembly. Place a large "C" clamp on caliper. Tighten clamp to bottom piston in cylinder bore. Remove clamp.
3. On Bronco II and Ranger, remove dirt from around caliper pin tabs. Tap upper caliper pin toward inboard side of vehicle, until pin tabs touch spindle face.
4. Insert a screwdriver into slot provided behind pin tabs on inboard side of pin. Using pliers, compress end of pin while prying with screwdriver until tabs slip into spindle groove.
5. Place a 7/16" punch on end of pin and drive caliper pin out of caliper slide groove. Repeat procedure for lower pin. Remove caliper from rotor. Remove outer brake pad. Compress anti-rattle clip and remove inner brake pad.
6. On Bronco, E & F150 and E & F250, remove key retaining screw. Using a brass rod, and light hammer, drive out caliper support spring.
7. Remove caliper from spindle by pushing it downward against spindle and rotating upper end upward and out of spindle. Support caliper out of the way or disconnect brake hose to remove caliper.
8. Remove outer disc pad from caliper. It may be necessary to tap pad to loosen pad flange from caliper. Remove inner disc pad from spindle assembly. Remove pad anti-rattle clip from lower end of pad.

1. On Bronco II and Ranger, reverse removal procedure. Ensure that outer shoe torque buttons are solidly seated in caliper cut-outs. Install caliper pin until retention tabs on side of pin contact spindle face.
2. Do not allow tabs of caliper pin to be tapped in too far into spindle groove. If this happens, it will be necessary to tap the other end of pin until tabs snap into place. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Bleed brake system if brake hose was disconnected.
3. On Bronco, E & F150 and E & F250, Install new anti-rattle clip on lower end of inner pad. Place lower end of pad in spindle, with clip against pad, and clip loop away from rotor. Slide upper end of pad into position. Be sure clip is still in position.
4. With piston fully bottomed in cylinder bore, position outer pad on caliper and press pad tabs into place. If pad cannot be pressed into place by hand, use a large "C" clamp. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Bleed brake system if brake hose was disconnected. Apply brakes until a firm pedal is obtained.

DISC PADS & CALIPER (DUAL PISTON CALIPER)

Note. Always replace both sets of brake pads together. Never service one wheel only.

1. To prevent master cylinder overflow when caliper is depressed, remove a small amount of brake fluid from master cylinder. Raise vehicle and support with safety stands. Remove front wheel assembly. Remove key retaining screw.
2. Using a brass rod, and light hammer, drive out key and spring. Remove caliper by rotating key and spring end out and away from rotor.
3. Slide opposite end of caliper clear of slide in the support and off the rotor. Do not allow caliper to hang from brake line. Disconnect brake hose to remove caliper. Remove caliper disc pad anti-rattle spring. Remove inner and outer disc pads.

1. Make sure caliper pistons are fully bottomed in caliper. Install disc pads and anti-rattle spring. Place caliper rail into the slide on support and rotate caliper onto rotor.
2. Place key and spring into position and start inserting between caliper and support. Check that spring is between key and caliper, and that spring tangs overlap ends of key. Use a screwdriver if necessary to hold caliper up against support.
3. Drive key and spring into position aligning correct notch with existing hole in support. Install key retaining screw and tighten to 14-22 ft. lbs. (19-30 N.m). Check brake fluid level in master cylinder and fill as necessary. Bleed brake system if brake hose was disconnected. Apply brakes until firm pedal is obtained.

Removal & Installation

Raise vehicle and support with safety stands. Remove wheel and caliper assemblies. Remove dust cap, cotter pin, nut, washer, and outer bearing. Carefully remove hub and rotor assembly. Remove inner bearing and seal. To install, reverse removal procedure. Adjust front wheel bearings. See appropiate WHEEL BEARINGS article under ADJUSTMENTS .

1. Raise vehicle and support with safety stands. Remove wheel assembly and caliper. Remove retainer washers from lug nut studs. Remove locking hub assembly from spindle. (Scheme 10) Remove snap ring from end of spindle shaft.
2. Remove axle shaft spacer, needle bearing, and bearing spacer. Being careful not to damage plastic moving cam, pull cam assembly off wheel bearing adjustment nut. Remove thrust washer and thrust (needle) bearing from adjustment nut.
3. Look into spindle keyway, under adjustment nut hole, and remove any portion of locking key that has separated from cam assembly. If this condition exists, replace entire cam assembly.
4. Remove adjustment nut using Socket (T7OT-4252-B). Remove hub and disc assembly, outer wheel bearing will slide out as hub is being removed. Remove grease seal and inner wheel bearing.
5. Inspect needle and wheel bearings for wear or damage. Inspect bearing cups for pits or cracks. Replace worn parts. If necessary, remove bearing cups with drift.

Scheme 10

1. Pack needle and wheel bearings. Install inner wheel bearing and grease seal. Install hub and disc assembly on spindle. Install outer wheel bearing and adjustment nut.
2. Spin rotor and tighten adjustment nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 N.m). Back off nut 1/4 turn. Retighten adjustment nut to 16 INCH lbs. (1.8 N.m). Carefully align closest hole in adjustment nut with center of spindle keyway. NOTE: Extreme care must be taken when aligning nut with center of spindle keyway to prevent damage to cam assembly locking key.
3. Install thrust (needle) bearing and thrust washer. Install cam assembly onto lock nut by lining up key in cam with spindle keyway. Install bearing spacer, needle bearing, and axle shaft spacer.
4. Install snap ring. End play should be .001"-.003" (.025-.076 mm). Install locking hub assembly over spindle by lining up 3 lugs on hub with cut-outs in cam assembly. Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.

1. Raise vehicle and support with safety stands. Remove wheel assembly and caliper. Remove 5 cap screws using Torx "R" bit TX25. Remove cover. Do not drop ball bearing, bearing race, or retainer. (Scheme 11)
2. Remove rubber seal. Remove seal bridge retainer from retainer ring. Remove retainer ring by closing ends with needle nose pliers and at same time pulling hub lock away from wheel hub.
3. Remove "C" washer from stub shaft groove. Remove splined spacer from shaft. Remove wheel bearing lock nuts and lock washers. To complete removal, see removal steps 3) through 5) of 4WD model manual locking hubs.

Scheme 11

1. Install hub assembly. Wheel bearing lock nut and lock washer installation is the same as with manual locking hubs. Tighten outer wheel bearing lock nut to 150 ft. lbs. (203 N.m).
2. Install splined spacer and "C" washer on stub shaft. Start hub lock assembly into hub. Ensure that large tangs line up with lock washers. Ensure that outside and inside diameter splines line up with hub and stub shaft splines.
3. Install retainer ring by closing ends with needle nose pliers and at same time pushing hub lock into wheel hub. Install seal bridge retainer with narrow end first.
4. Install rubber seal over hub lock. Install cover, making sure that ball bearing, bearing race, and retainer are in place. Alternately tighten cap screws to 45 INCH lbs. (5 N.m). Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.

1. Raise vehicle and support with safety stands. Remove wheel assembly and caliper. Remove retainer washers from lug nut studs. Remove locking hub assembly from spindle. (Scheme 12)
2. Remove snap ring from end of spindle shaft. Remove axle shaft spacer, needle bearing, and bearing spacer. Remove wheel bearing outer lock nut using Front Wheel Bearing Spanner (T38T-1197-A).
3. Remove lock nut washer. Remove wheel bearing inner lock nut using spanner. Remove hub and disc assembly, outer wheel bearing will slide out as hub is being removed.
4. Remove grease seal and inner wheel bearing. Inspect needle and wheel bearings for wear or damage. Inspect bearing cups for pits or cracks. Replace worn parts. If necessary, remove bearing cups with drift.

1. Pack needle and wheel bearings. Install inner wheel bearing and grease seal. Install hub and disc assembly on spindle. Install outer bearing and inner lock nut. Tighten lock nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 N.m).
2. Spin rotor and back off inner lock nut 1/4 turn. Install lock washer. It may be necessary to turn inner lock nut slightly so that pin on lock nut aligns with closest hole on lock washer.
3. Install outer lock nut and tighten to 150 ft. lbs. (203 N.m). Install bearing spacer, needle bearing, and axle shaft spacer. Install snap ring. End play should be .001"-.003" (.025-.076 mm). Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.

Scheme 12

1. Raise vehicle and support with safety stands. Remove wheel assembly and caliper. Remove cap by removing 6 socket head cap screws from cap assembly and slip apart.
2. Remove snap ring from end of axle shaft. Remove lock ring from groove of wheel hub. Slide hub assembly out of wheel hub. If necessary, use a puller to remove hub assembly.
3. Remove wheel bearing lock nut, lock ring, and adjustment nut using Front Wheel Bearing Spanner (T59T-1197-B) for F100, F250 and Bronco; or (T78T-1197-A) for F250 (Over 6900 GVW) and F350.
4. Remove hub and disc assembly, outer wheel bearing will slide out as hub is being removed. Remove spindle retaining nuts, then carefully remove spindle from knuckle and axle shaft.
5. Remove grease seal and inner wheel bearing. Inspect needle and wheel bearings for wear or damage. Inspect bearing cups for pits or cracks. Replace worn parts. If necessary, remove bearing cups with drift.

1. Pack needle bearings and spindle face that mates with spindle seal. Install spindle over axle shaft and onto knuckle. Tighten retaining nuts to 50-60 ft. lbs. (68-81 N.m) on F350. On Bronco, F150 and F250, tighten retaining nuts to 20-30 ft. lbs. (27-41 N.m).
2. Pack wheel bearings. Install inner bearing and grease seal. Install hub and disc assembly on spindle. Install outer bearing and inner lock nut. Tighten bearing inner lock nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 N.m) while rotating wheel back and forth.
3. On Bronco, F150 and F250 with Dana Model 44 front axle, back off inner lock nut 45°. Install lock washer by turning inner lock nut to nearest hole in lock washer.
4. Install outer lock nut and tighten to 150 (203 N.m). Wheel spindle end play should be 0.00"-.006" (0.0-15 mm). Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.
5. On F250 and F350 with Dana Model 50 front axle, back off inner lock nut and retighten to 31-39 ft. lbs. (42-53 N.m). While rotating hub, back off lock nut 135° to 150°.
6. Install lock washer and outer lock nut. Tighten outer lock nut to 65 ft. lbs. (88 N.m). Bend one ear of lock washer over inner lock nut and other ear over outer lock nut. Wheel spindle end play should be .001"-.009" (.025-.23 mm). Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.

1. Remove wheel assembly and brake drum. Remove parking brake assembly retaining nut from backing plate. Remove parking brake assembly. Remove adjusting cable assembly from anchor pin, cable guide, and adjusting lever.
2. Remove brake shoe return springs, hold down springs, and brake shoes. (Scheme 13) Remove and disassemble adjusting screw assembly.

To install, reverse removal procedure. Before installing brake shoes, apply a thin coat of multipurpose grease to contact points of brake assembly.

Scheme 13

1. Remove wheel assembly and drum. Place a clamp over ends of wheel cylinder. Disengage adjusting lever from adjusting screw by pulling backwards on lever.
2. Move outboard side of adjusting screw up, and back off pivot nut as far as possible. Pull adjusting lever, cable, and automatic adjuster spring down, and toward rear to unhook pivot hook from large hole in secondary shoe. Do not pry pivot hook from hole.
3. Remove automatic adjuster spring and adjusting lever. Remove shoe to anchor springs, cable anchor, and anchor pin plate. (Scheme 14)
4. Remove cable guide, shoe hold-down springs, shoes adjusting screw, pivot nut, and socket. Remove parking brake spring and link. Note color and position of springs for reassembly.
5. Disconnect parking brake cable from lever. Remove secondary shoe and disassemble parking brake lever from shoe by removing retaining clip and spring washer.

To install, reverse removal procedure. Make sure adjusting cable is in groove of cable guide. Check that cable does not bind on anchor pin, and adjusting screw is mounted on correct side. If adjuster screw is mounted on wrong side, adjuster will operate incorrectly.

Scheme 14

1. Raise vehicle and support with safety stands. Remove wheel assembly and brake drum. Remove support plate mounting nuts through hole provided in axle shaft flange.
2. Using a slide hammer, carefully remove axle shaft. Using slide hammer and Bearing Race Puller (T77F-1102-A), remove outer bearing race. Remove support plate and hang out of the way.
3. Drill a 1/2" (12.7 mm) hole in inner bearing retainer to a depth of 3/8" (9.5 mm) the thickness of retainer ring. Do not drill axle shaft. Chisel off retainer ring.
4. Install outer bearing race on axle shaft. Place axle shaft on Bearing Remover (T75L-1165-A, B and C). Assemble bearing remover halves and tighten nuts. Press bearing and seal off shaft.

1. Install retainer plate, if removed. Lubricate seal and bearing and position on axle shaft. Using Bearing Installer (T75L-1165-B) and Plate and Adapter (T75L-1165-DA), press bearing and seal onto shaft.
2. Position new inner bearing retainer on shaft. Press retainer firmly against bearing. Apply multipurpose grease to outer diameter of cup and seal. Install support plate and attaching bolts.
3. Ensure that outer seal is installed on bearing. Carefully slide axle shaft into housing. Start axle shaft splines into side gear, and push in on shaft until bearing bottoms in housing. Install retainer plate. Tighten nuts to 20-40 ft. lbs. (27-54 N.m). Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.

1. Raise vehicle and support with safety stands. Remove wheel assembly and brake drum. Loosen differential cover plate and drain lubricant from axle. Remove cover plate and discard gasket.
2. Remove differential pinion shaft lock bolt (lock pin) and discard. Remove differential pinion shaft. Push flanged end of axle toward center of vehicle and remove "C" clip from end of shaft. Do not lose or damage "O" ring (if used) under "C" clip.
3. Pull axle shaft from axle tube, being careful not to damage oil seal. When removing axle shaft, do not rotate differential side gears. Rotating side gears causes pinion gears and thrust washers to fall out.
4. On E/F250 with Model 60 rear axle, remove oil seal from axle tube. Pull bearing from axle tube using Puller (T81P-1104-C), Adapters (T81P-1104-B Coarse Thread or D81T-1104-A Fine Thread), and Wheel Bearing Remover (T81T-1225-A).
5. On Bronco II and Ranger, insert Slide Hammer (T50T-100-A) and Axle Bearing Remover (T85L-1225-AH) behind bearing. On all other models (8.8" ring gear), insert Slide Hammer (T50T-100-A) and Seal Remover (T83T-1225-A) behind bearing. Remove seal and bearing.

1. On Bronco II and Ranger, lubricate bearing with axle lubricant and install bearing using Wheel Bearing Replacer (T78P-1225-A). Lubricate lips of seal with multi-purpose grease. Install seal with Seal Replacer (T78P-1177-A).
2. On all models with 8.8" ring gear, lubricate bearing with axle lubricant and install bearing using Wheel Bearing Replacer (T83T-1225-B). Lubricate lips of seal with multi-purpose grease. Install seal with Seal Replacer (T83T-1175-A).
3. On E/F250 with Model 60 rear axle, ensure that bearing bore is free of nicks and burrs. If necessary, wipe bore with emery cloth to obtain a smooth surface. Coat bearing with differential lube.
4. Press bearing into bore using Puller (T81P-1104-C), Adapters (T81P-1104-B or D81T-1104-A), Step Plate (D80L-630-1), and Rear Axle Bearing Replacer (T80T-4000-X). Ensure that bearing is not cocked.
5. Using Rear Oil Seal Installer ((T80T-4000-Y) and Handle (T80T-4000-X), drive oil seal into bore. Lubricate lips of seal with multipurpose, lithium base grease.
6. On all models, install axle shaft. Make sure that splinted shaft engages side gears. Push flanged end of axle shaft toward center of axle and install "C" clip. Pull axle shaft outward until "C" clips locks into side gear.
7. Install pinion shaft, making sure that hole in shaft is lined up with hole in case. Ensure that pinion thrust washers are in position. Ensure that threads in case and lock screw are free of dirt and oil.
8. Install new lock bolt (lock pin). Tighten lock bolt to 20-25 ft. lbs. (27-34 N.m). Add RTV or silicone sealer to cover plate and install. Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.

1. Set parking brake and loosen axle shaft attaching bolts. Raise vehicle and support with safety stands. Release parking brakes. Remove axle shaft attaching bolts and lock washers. (Scheme 15) Discard bolts and washers.
2. Remove axle shaft and gasket. Discard gasket. Pry out locking wedge. Using a wheel dolly, raise wheel to remove all weight from bearings. Remove bearing adjustment nut and outer bearing. Remove wheel assembly from axle.
3. Remove inner bearing and seal out of hub with brass drift. Avoid damage to bearing cage. Clean and inspect bearings and races. If bearings need replacement, remove bearing outer races from hub with a brass drift.

1. If bearings are replaced, press new bearing outer races into hub with Bearing Race Replacer (T75T-1225-A and T75T-1225-B). Make sure bearing race is seated correctly. A feeler gauge .0015" (.038 mm) thick should not fit between hub and bearing race.
2. Pack bearings with multipurpose, lithium base grease. Place inner bearing in hub and install new seal with bearing race replacer. Tape over threads on end of spindle. Slide hub assembly over spindle, using care to avoid damaging seal lips.
3. Remove tape and install outer bearing and adjustment nut. Using Hex Lock Nut Wrench (T70T-4252-D) or Octal Lock Nut Wrench (T70T-4252-E), tighten adjustment nut to 120-140 ft. lbs. (163-190 N.m) while rotating wheel.
4. Back off adjustment nut until hub bearing end play is .001-.010" (.03-.25 mm). This should require 1/8 to 3/8 turn of adjustment nut. If end play is correct, place locking wedge into keyway in spindle and pound wedge into nylon retainer ring. NOTE: Locking wedge must cut new groove in nylon retainer. Nut and wedge must be replaced if nut cannot be positioned within correct end play range so that new groove is cut in nylon retainer.
5. Install axle shaft with new flange gasket, lock washers, and new axle shaft retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 N.m). Adjust brakes if necessary.

Scheme 15

Scheme 16

1. Raise and support vehicle. To remove locking hub assembly, first separate locking hub cap assembly from body assembly. Using Torx-R Bit (TX25), detach 5 cap screws from cap assembly, then remove locking hub cap and bearing components. CAUTION: Do not drop ball bearing, race, spring retainer or spring during disassembly.
2. Remove rubber sealing ring. Remove seal bridge retainer (small metal stamping) from spring retainer ring space. Detach lock ring retainer by closing ends with needle-nose pliers while pulling locking hub body assembly from wheel hub.
3. If wheel hub and spindle are to be removed, detach "C" washer from stub shaft groove. Remove splined spacer from shaft. Remove wheel bearing lock nuts and lock washer. Disassemble, clean and inspect locking hub assembly components.
4. Detach snap ring and flat washer from inner end of locking hub assembly. Pull hub sleeve and attached parts out of drag sleeve, then cock drag sleeve to unlock tangs of brake band. Remove drag sleeve assembly. CAUTION: Do not remove brake band from drag sleeve.
5. Wash drag sleeve/brake band assembly in clean solvent and thoroughly blow dry. Lubricate brake band/drag sleeve assembly with lubricant meeting specification ESL-M1C93A (Darmex Spec. DX-123-LT). Work lubricant over spring and area of drag sleeve under spring.
6. Dip locking hub body assembly (except cap assembly and brake band/drag sleeve assembly) in Dexron II ATF and permit to drip dry for a few minutes before proceeding with assembly.

Inspection

Wash locking hub cap bearing, race and retainer in clean solvent, then inspect for excessive wear or damage. Replace components as needed. Thoroughly blow dry parts with compressed air. Do not spin bearings with air or damage can result. Repack bearing with lithium grease, then properly position bearing assembly in race. (Scheme 17)

Scheme 17

1. To install locking hub components, first assemble 1 of 2 brake band tangs on each side of outer cage (plastic), which is located in window of inner cage (steel). It is necessary to cock these parts to engage tangs in this position as the drag sleeve is positioned against cam follower face. Install washer and snap ring.
2. If removed, install wheel bearing inner adjusting nut and lock washer. Tighten outer lock nut to 150 ft. lbs. (203 N.m). Install splined spacer and "C" washer onto axle shaft. NOTE: Remove excess grease from hub lock and hub splines before installation.
3. Start locking hub assembly into hub. Ensure large tangs are lined up with lock washer and outside diameter and inside diameter splines are in line with hub and axle shaft splines.
4. Install retainer ring by closing ring ends with needle-nose pliers and, at the same time, push locking hub assembly into hub. Install seal bridge retainer (narrow end first).
5. Install rubber seal over locking hub. Install locking hub cap assembly. Ensure ball bearing, race, spring and retainer are in proper position. Tighten Torx-R bit screws to 40-50 INCH lbs. (4.5-5.6 N.m) following tightening sequence (tighten 1, skip 1, etc.) until complete.

1. To remove locking hub, first separate locking hub cap assembly from hub body assembly by removing 6 Allen head cap screws from cap assembly, then slip components apart. Detach snap ring (retainer ring) from end of axle shaft.
2. Remove lock ring (seated in groove of wheel hub). (Scheme 18) Slide hub body assembly out of wheel hub. If necessary, use a puller to remove hub body assembly.

Scheme 18

Note. Do not pack grease into locking hub cap. To much grease can cause excessive dialing effort.

To install locking hub assembly components, reverse removal procedure. Install locking hub cap assembly and tighten cap screws to 35-55 INCH lbs. (4.0-6.2 N.m).

1. Disconnect wires from stop light switch. Remove retaining pin, spacers, and bushing securing master cylinder push rod to brake pedal. Remove stop light switch.
2. Remove nuts securing master cylinder to firewall. Disconnect brake lines. Remove bolts and studs securing master cylinder to firewall and remove master cylinder. Remove boot and master cylinder push rod.

To install, reverse removal procedure. Center pressure differential valve and bleed system. See BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING section in this article.

Depress brake pedal to expel vacuum from brake booster. Disconnect brake lines at master cylinder. Remove clutch master cylinder, if used. Remove nuts retaining master cylinder to brake booster. Remove master cylinder.

To install, reverse removal procedure. Center pressure differential valve and bleed system. See BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING section in this article.

Remove wheel assembly, drum, and brake shoes. Remove cylinder connecting links and disconnect hydraulic brake line from cylinder. Remove brake cylinder retaining bolts. Remove cylinder from backing plate. To install, reverse removal procedure. Adjust brakes and bleed hydraulic system.

BENDIX POWER BRAKE BOOSTER

The power brake unit is serviced as an assembly and must be replaced if it is found to be defective. On single diaphragm booster, the unit must also be replaced if the rubber reaction disc (Black) cannot be properly aligned, installed or if it cannot be located within the unit. see scheme 19

Scheme 19

Scheme 20

Scheme 21

1. Remove caliper. Remove plug from inlet port (if used) and drain fluid from cylinders. Place a block of wood between caliper and cylinders. (Scheme 21) Apply low air pressure to brake hose inlet. Air pressure will force out piston(s).
2. If a piston is jammed or cocked and will not easily come out, tap end of piston sharply with a brass hammer to straighten. Do not pry piston from bore.
3. Reapply low air pressure to remove cocked piston. Remove seal and boot from grooves. Discard seals and boots.

Cleaning & Inspection

1. Clean rust and corrosion from caliper machined surfaces with a wire brush, being careful not to get wire brush in cylinder bores. Clean all components with denatured alcohol and dry with compressed air.
2. Inspect cylinder bore, seal grooves, and boot grooves for wear or damage. If bores are scored, corroded or worn, replace caliper. Replace anti-rattle clip, caliper support spring and key.

Reassembly (Single Piston)

1. Lubricate piston seal with clean brake fluid and install in cylinder bore groove. Lubricate cylinder with clean brake fluid. Coat piston and outside beads of dust boot with clean brake fluid.
2. Push piston through boot until boot is around bottom (closed end) of piston. Position piston and boot directly over cylinder bore. Work bead of dust boot into groove near top of cylinder bore.
3. With bead seated in groove, press straight down on piston until it bottoms in cylinder bore. Care must be taken not to cock or jam piston in cylinder. If necessary use a "C" clamp and a block of wood to bottom piston in cylinder.

Scheme 22

Scheme 23

Reassembly (Dual Piston)

1. Lubricate new piston seals with clean brake fluid and install seals in grooves in cylinders. (Scheme 24) Lubricate cylinders with clean brake fluid.
2. Lubricate retaining lips of boots with clean brake fluid and install in grooves in cylinders. Coat pistons with clean brake fluid. Insert into cylinders by hand until they are beyond piston seals.
3. Position a wood block over one piston and press into cylinder, taking care not to cock piston. Install other piston in same manner.

Scheme 24

Disassembly

1. Clean outside of master cylinder, remove filler cap and diaphragm. Drain any remaining fluid from cylinder. Depress primary piston and remove snap ring from end of master cylinder bore.
2. Remove primary piston assembly from cylinder bore. Apply air pressure to forward outlet port of cylinder and carefully blow secondary piston assembly out of bore.

Clean all parts with isopropyl alcohol, and blow dry with compressed air. Ensure that all ports and vents are open and free of foreign matter. Inspect master cylinder bore and all parts for excessive wear or damage. If bore is damaged, replace master cylinder.

Reassembly

1. Lubricate all components including cylinder bore with clean brake fluid. Carefully insert secondary and primary piston assemblies into master cylinder bore. Depress primary piston and install snap ring in groove.
2. On vehicles with manual brakes, install push rod retainer onto push rod and install into primary piston. Ensure that retainer is properly seated and holding push rod securely.

Bleeding

1. Support master cylinder in a vise and fill both reservoirs with fluid. Install plugs in brake outlet ports. Loosen plug in rear outlet port and depress primary piston slowly to force air out of cylinder. Tighten plug while piston is depressed to prevent air from entering cylinder.
2. Repeat procedure until no air is evident. Proceed to front outlet port when rear is bled, ensuring that rear plug is tight. Piston travel will be greatly restricted when all air is expelled. Remove plugs, install cover and diaphragm.

Scheme 25

With the wheel cylinder removed from vehicle, remove rubber boots from ends of cylinders. Remove piston return spring, cylinder cups, and piston from cylinder. Remove bleeder screw and inspect cylinder bore for damage.

If bore of cylinder is lightly pitted or scratched, hone or replace as necessary. Soak all parts in brake fluid or assembly lube, and reverse disassembly procedures. Clamp brake cylinder pistons against ends of cylinder.

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

DISC BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS

DISC BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS

DRUM BRAKE SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS

DRUM BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS

See also:
• POWER BRAKE BOOSTER PUSH ROD
• VACUUM PUMP BELT TENSION SPECIFICATIONS
• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
• CENTERING PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL CONTROL VALVE