3.7l Engine - Overhaul Dodge Pickup R1500

DESCRIPTION

The 3.7 liter (226 CID) six-cylinder engine is an 90° single overhead camshaft engine. (Scheme 1) The cast iron cylinder block is made up of two different components; the first component is the cylinder bore and upper block, the second component is the bed-plate that comprises the lower portion of the cylinder block and houses the lower half of the crankshaft main bearings. The cylinders are numbered from front to rear with the left bank being numbered 1,3, and 5 and the right bank being numbered 2, 4, and 6. The firing order is 1--6--5--4--3--2. The engine serial number is located at the right front side of the engine block

Scheme 1

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION

Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by routine maintenance.

These malfunctions may be classified as either performance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or mechanical (e.g., a strange noise).

(Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE and (Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL for possible causes and corrections of malfunctions.

Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be necessary for specific engine malfunctions that cannot be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts. Information concerning additional tests and diagnosis is provided within the following diagnosis

1. Cylinder Compression Pressure Test. (Refer to «DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul__diagnosis-and-testing-cylinder-compression) ).
2. Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test. (Refer to «DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul__diagnosis-and-testing-cylinder-combustion) ).
3. Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis. (Refer to «DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul__diagnosis-and-testing-cylinder-head) ).
4. Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis. (Refer to «INTAKE MANIFOLD»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).

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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE

The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.

Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
2. Remove the spark plugs.
3. Disable the fuel system.
4. Remove the ASD relay.
5. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
6. Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders.
7. (Refer to «SPECIFICATIONS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) for the correct engine compression pressures.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect

1. Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
2. Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
3. Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.

1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiator cap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
3. Remove the spark plugs.
4. Remove the oil filler cap.
5. Remove the air cleaner hose.
6. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
7. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compression, While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.

All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.

FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the cylinder.

Refer to Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Diagnosis Chart. (Scheme 7)

Scheme 7

STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS

Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of

1. Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
2. Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or equivalent.
3. Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS

There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results. Do not use form-in-place gasket material unless specified. Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.

There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. MOPAR® Engine RTV GEN II, MOPAR® ATF-RTV, and MOPAR® Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not be used in place of the other.

MOPAR® ENGINE RTV GEN II

MOPAR® Engine RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® ATF RTV

MOPAR® ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® GASKET MAKER

MOPAR® Gasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.

MOPAR® GASKET SEALANT

MOPAR® Gasket Sealant is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material is recommended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts under all temperatures. This material is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This material also will prevent corrosion. MOPAR® Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER APPLICATION

Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket requires care but it's easier than using precut gaskets.

Gasket Maker material should be applied sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant to one gasket surface. Be certain the material surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material can easily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.

MOPAR® Engine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket material should be applied in a continuous bead approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a 3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a shop towel. Components should be torqued in place while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.

MOPAR® Gasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE GASKET SURFACE PREPARATION

To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface preparation must be performed, especially with the use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer steel cylinder head gaskets.

Never use the following to clean gasket surfaces

Scheme 8

1. Metal scraper
2. Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block and head
3. High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a wire brush. (Scheme 8)

Note. Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require a scratch free sealing surface.

Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces

1. Solvent or a commercially available gasket remover
2. Plastic or wood scraper. (Scheme 8)
3. Drill motor with 3M Roloc TM Bristle Disc (white or yellow) (Scheme 8)

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Remove hood. Mark hood hinge location for reinstallation.
3. Remove air cleaner assembly.
4. Remove radiator core support bracket.
5. Remove fan shroud with viscous fan assembly.
6. Remove drive belt.
7. Remove A/C compressor and secure away from engine.
8. Remove generator and secure away from engine. NOTE: DO NOT remove the phenolic pulley from the P/S pump. It is not required for P/S pump removal.
9. Remove power steering pump with lines attached and secure away from engine.
10. Drain cooling system.
11. Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine.
12. Disconnect heater hoses from heater core and remove hose assembly.
13. Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
14. Remove upper radiator hose from engine.
15. Remove lower radiator hose from engine.
16. Remove radiator/cooling module assembly.
17. Disconnect the engine to body ground straps at the left side of cowl.
18. Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the following points: Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor Fuel Injectors Throttle Position (TPS) Switch Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor Engine Oil Pressure Switch Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Coil Over Plugs Crankshaft Position Sensor
19. Remove coil over plugs.
20. Release fuel rail pressure.
21. Remove fuel rail and secure away from engine. NOTE: It is not necessary to release the quick connect fitting from the fuel supply line for engine removal.
22. Remove the PCV hose.
23. Remove the breather hoses.
24. Remove the vacuum hose for the power brake booster.
25. Disconnect knock sensors.
26. Remove engine oil dipstick tube.
27. Remove intake manifold.
28. Install engine lifting fixture, Special Tool 8247, using original fasteners from the removed intake manifold, and fuel rail. Torque to factory specifications. Refer to «SPECIFICATIONS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) . NOTE: Recheck bolt torque for engine lift plate before removing engine.
29. Secure the left and right engine wiring harnesses away from engine.
30. Raise vehicle.
31. Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
32. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor.
33. Disconnect the engine block heater power cable, if equipped.
34. Disconnect the front propeller shaft at the front differential and secure out of way. NOTE: It is necessary to disconnect the front propeller shaft for access to the starter and left side exhaust flange.
35. Remove the starter.
36. Remove the ground straps from the left and right side of the block.
37. Disconnect the right and left exhaust pipes at the manifolds and from the crossover, and remove from the vehicle. NOTE: The exhaust clamps at the manifolds cannot be reused. New clamps must be used or leaks may occur.
38. Remove the structural cover.
39. Remove torque convertor bolts, and mark location for reassembly.
40. Remove transmission bellhousing to engine bolts.
41. Remove left and right engine mount thru bolts.
42. Lower the vehicle.
43. Support the transmission with a suitable jack.
44. Connect a suitable engine hoist to the engine lift plate.
45. Remove engine from vehicle.

INSTALLATION

1. Position the engine in the vehicle.
2. Install both left and right side engine mounts onto engine.
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Install the transmission bellhousing to engine mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.).
5. Tighten the engine mount thru bolts.
6. Install the torque convertor bolts.
7. Connect the ground straps on the left and right side of the engine.
8. Install the starter.
9. Connect the crankshaft position sensor.
10. Install the engine block heater power cable, if equipped. CAUTION: The structural cover requires a specific torque sequence. Failure to follow this sequence may cause severe damage to the cover.
11. Install the structural cover. NOTE: New clamps must be used on exhaust manifold flanges. Failure to use new clamps may result in exhaust leaks.
12. Install the left and right exhaust pipes.
13. Connect the left and right oxygen sensors.
14. Lower vehicle.
15. Remove the engine lift plate.
16. Connect the knock sensors.
17. Connect the engine to body ground straps at the left side of the cowl.
18. Install the intake manifold.
19. Install the engine oil dipstick tube.
20. Install the power brake booster vacuum hose.
21. Install the breather hoses.
22. Install the PCV hose.
23. Install the fuel rail.
24. Install the coil over plugs.
25. Connect the engine wiring harness at the following points: Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor Fuel Injectors Throttle Position (TPS) Switch Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor Engine Oil Pressure Switch Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Coil Over Plugs Crankshaft Position Sensor
26. Reinstall the radiator/cooling module assembly.
27. Connect lower radiator hose.
28. Connect upper radiator hose.
29. Connect throttle and speed control cables.
30. Install the heater hose assembly.
31. Install coolant recovery bottle.
32. Install the power steering pump.
33. Install the generator.
34. Install the A/C compressor.
35. Install the drive belt.
36. Install the fan shroud with the viscous fan assembly.
37. Install the radiator core support bracket.
38. Install the air cleaner assembly.
39. Refill the engine cooling system.
40. Recharge the air conditioning.
41. Install the hood.
42. Check and fill engine oil.
43. Connect the battery negative cable.
44. Start the engine and check for leaks.

SPECIFICATIONS - 3.7L ENGINE

General Specifications

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TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

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Scheme 52

Filter Element Only

Housing removal is not necessary for element (filter) replacement.

Scheme 53

1. Loosen clamp (Scheme 53) and disconnect air duct at air cleaner cover.
2. Pry over 4 spring clips (Scheme 53) from housing cover (spring clips retain cover to housing).
3. Release housing cover from locating tabs on housing (Scheme 53) and remove cover.
4. Remove air cleaner element (filter) from housing.
5. Clean inside of housing before replacing element.

Scheme 54

1. Loosen clamp (Scheme 53) and disconnect air duct at air cleaner cover.
2. Lift entire housing assembly from 4 locating pins. (Scheme 54)

1. Install filter element into housing.
2. Position housing cover into housing locating tabs. (Scheme 53)
3. Pry up 4 spring clips (Scheme 53) and lock cover to housing.
4. Install air duct to air cleaner cover and tighten hose clamp to 3 N.m (30 in. lbs.) torque.
5. If any other hose clamps were removed from air intake system, tighten them to 3.4 N.m (30 in. lbs.) torque.
6. If any bolts were removed from air resonator housing or air intake tubing, tighten them to 4.5 N.m (40 in. lbs.) torque.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET

A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the adjacent water jacket.

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders are

1. Loss of engine power
2. Engine misfiring
3. Poor fuel economy

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water jacket are

1. Engine overheating
2. Loss of coolant
3. Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from exhaust
4. Coolant foaming

CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST

To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the procedures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test. (Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE ). An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50- 70% reduction in compression pressure.

CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST

VISUAL TEST METHOD

With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until thermostat opens.

If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.

COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD

Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.

CHEMICAL TEST METHOD

Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or equivalent. Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.

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1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the left side exhaust manifold.
4. Drain the engine coolant.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Remove the intake manifold. (Refer to «INTAKE MANIFOLD»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
7. Remove the master cylinder and booster assembly. (Refer to «DISC»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical-hydraulic/#disc-brakes) ).
8. Remove the cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
9. Remove the fan shroud and fan blade assembly.
10. Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to «SPECIFICATIONS & DRIVE BELT ROUTING»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#cooling-system-specifications-drive-belt-routing).
11. Remove the power steering pump and set aside.
12. Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (Scheme 55)
13. Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket is at the 12 o'clock position. (Scheme 56) Rotate the crankshaft one turn if necessary.
14. Remove the crankshaft damper. (Refer to «VIBRATION DAMPER»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
15. Remove the timing chain cover. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S)»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
16. Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler sprocket using Special Tool 8429 Timing Chain Holding Fixture. (Scheme 57) NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to removal to aid in installation.
17. Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on each side of the V6 mark on the camshaft drive gear.
18. Remove the left side secondary chain tensioner. Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul).
19. Remove the cylinder head access plug. (Scheme 58)
20. Remove the left side secondary chain guide. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
21. Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: DO NOT allow the engine to rotate. Severe damage to the valve train can occur. CAUTION: DO NOT overlook the four smaller bolts at the front of the cylinder head. DO NOT attempt to remove the cylinder head without removing these four bolts. NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder block with twelve bolts.
22. Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
23. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard the gasket.

Note. The cylinder head bolts are tightened using a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked down the bolts should be replaced.

Necking can be checked by holding a straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale, the bolt should be replaced. (Scheme 59)

Scheme 59

Scheme 60

Scheme 61

1. Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces. (Scheme 60)
2. Position the new cylinder head gasket on the locating dowels. CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
3. Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over the locating dowels. NOTE: The four smaller cylinder head mounting bolts require sealant to be added to them before installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
4. Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with clean engine oil and install the eight M11 bolts.
5. Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with MOPAR® Lock and Seal Adhesive then install the bolts. NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using an angle torque procedure, however, the bolts are not a torque-to-yield design.
6. Tighten the bolts in sequence using the following steps and torque values: Step 1: Tighten bolts 1-8, 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.). Step 2: Verify that bolts 1-8, all reached 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) by repeating step 1 without loosening the bolts. Tighten bolts 9 thru 12 to 14 N.m (10 ft. lbs.). Step 3: Tighten bolts 1-8, 90 degrees. (Scheme 61) Step 4: Tighten bolts 1-8, 90 degrees, again. Tighten bolts 9-12, 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.)
7. Position the secondary chain onto the camshaft drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on either side of the V6 mark on the gear then using Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, position the gear onto the camshaft. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket retaining bolt before reinstalling bolt. Failure to do so may cause over-torquing of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
8. Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
9. Install the left side secondary chain guide. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
10. Install the cylinder head access plug.
11. Reset and install the left side secondary chain tensioner. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
12. Remove Special Tool 8429.
13. Install the timing chain cover. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S)»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
14. Install the crankshaft damper. (Refer to «VIBRATION DAMPER»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ). Tighten damper bolt 175 N.m (130 Ft. Lbs.).
15. Install the power steering pump.
16. Install the fan blade assembly and fan shroud.
17. Install the cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
18. Install the master cylinder and booster assembly. (Refer to «DISC»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical-hydraulic/#disc-brakes) ).
19. Install the intake manifold. (Refer to «INTAKE MANIFOLD»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
20. Refill the cooling system.
21. Raise the vehicle.
22. Install the exhaust pipe onto the left exhaust manifold.
23. Lower the vehicle.
24. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
25. Start the engine and check for leaks.

The camshafts consist of powdered metal steel lobes which are sinter-bonded to a steel tube. Four bearing journals are machined into the camshaft. Camshaft end play is controlled by two thrust walls that border the nose piece journal. Engine oil enters the hollow camshafts at the third journal and lubricates every intake lobe rocker through a drilled passage in the intake lobe.

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1. Remove cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
2. Set engine to TDC cylinder #1, camshaft sprocket V6 marks at the 12 o'clock position. (Scheme 56)
3. Mark one link on the secondary timing chain on both sides of the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket to aid in installation. CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft target wheel (Located on the right side camshaft sprocket) for any reason, severe damage will occur to the target wheel resulting in a vehicle no start condition.
4. Loosen but DO NOT remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt. Leave the bolt snug against the sprocket. NOTE: The timing chain tensioners must be secured prior to removing the camshaft sprockets. Failure to secure tensioners will allow the tensioners to extend, requiring timing chain cover removal in order to reset tensioners. CAUTION: Do not force wedge past the narrowest point between the chain strands. Damage to the tensioners may occur.
5. Position Special Tool 8379 timing chain wedge between the timing chain strands, tap the tool to securely wedge the timing chain against the tensioner arm and guide. (Scheme 62)
6. Hold the camshaft with Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, while removing the camshaft sprocket bolt and sprocket. (Scheme 63)
7. Using Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, gently allow the camshaft to rotate 5° clockwise until the camshaft is in the neutral position (no valve load).
8. Starting at the outside working inward, loosen the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts 1/2 turn at a time. Repeat until all load is off the bearing caps. CAUTION: DO NOT stamp or strike the camshaft bearing caps. Severe damage will occur to the bearing caps. NOTE: When the camshaft is removed the rocker arms may slide downward, mark the rocker arms before removing camshaft.
9. Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the camshaft.

Scheme 64

1. Lubricate camshaft journals with clean engine oil. NOTE: Position the left side camshaft so that the camshaft sprocket dowel is near the 1 o'clock position, This will place the camshaft at the neutral position easing the installation of the camshaft bearing caps.
2. Position the camshaft into the cylinder head.
3. Install the camshaft bearing caps, hand tighten the retaining bolts. NOTE: Caps should be installed so that the stamped numbers on the caps are in numerical order, (1 thru 4 ) from the front to the rear of the engine. All caps should be installed so that the stamped arrows on the caps point toward the front of the engine.
4. Working in 1/2 turn increments, tighten the bearing cap retaining bolts starting with the middle cap working outward. (Scheme 64)
5. Torque the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts to 11 N.m (100 in. lbs.).
6. Position the camshaft drive gear into the timing chain aligning the V6 mark between the two marked chain links (Two links marked during removal).
7. Using Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, rotate the camshaft until the camshaft sprocket dowel is aligned with the slot in the camshaft sprocket. Install the sprocket onto the camshaft. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can cause bolt over torque resulting in bolt failure.
8. Remove excess oil from bolt, then install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and hand tighten.
9. Remove Special Tool 8379 timing chain wedge.
10. Using Special Tool 6958 spanner wrench with adapter pins 8346, torque the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.).
11. Install the cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).

The cylinder head covers are made of single layer stamped steel, and are not interchangeable from side-to-side. (Scheme 65)

Scheme 65

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove the resonator assemble and air inlet hose.
3. Disconnect injector connectors and unclip the injector harness.
4. Route injector harness in front of cylinder head cover.
5. Disconnect the left side breather tube and remove the breather tube.
6. Remove the cylinder head cover mounting bolts. (Scheme 66)
7. Remove cylinder head cover and gasket.

Note. The gasket may be used again, provided no cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.

1. Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing surfaces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
2. Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double ended studs to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
3. Install left side breather and connect breather tube.
4. Connect injector electrical connectors and injector harness retaining clips.
5. Install the resonator and air inlet hose.
6. Connect negative cable to battery.

The valves are made of heat resistant steel and have chrome plated stems to prevent scuffing. Each valve is actuated by a roller rocker arm which pivots on a stationary lash adjuster. All valves use three bead lock keepers to retain the springs and promote valve rotation.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFACING

Note. Valve seats that are worn or burned can be reworked, provided that correct angle and seat width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head must be replaced.

Note. When refacing valves and valve seats, it is important that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseating stones. A true and complete surface must be obtained.

Scheme 66

1. Using a suitable dial indicator, measure the center of the valve seat. Total run out must not exceed 0.051 mm (0.002 in).
2. Apply a small amount of Prussian blue to the valve seat, insert the valve into the cylinder head, while applying light pressure on the valve rotate the valve. Remove the valve and examine the valve face. If the blue is transferred below the top edge of the valve face, lower the valve seat using a 15 degree stone. If the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of the valve face, raise the valve seat using a 65 degree stone.
3. When the seat is properly positioned the width of the intake seat must be 1.75 - 2.36 mm (0.0689 - 0.0928 in.) and the exhaust seat must be 1.71 - 2.32 mm (0.0673 - 0.0911 in.).
4. Check the valve spring installed height after refacing the valve and seat. The installed height for both intake and exhaust valve springs must not exceed 40.74 mm (1.6039 in.).
5. The valve seat and valve face must maintain a face angle of 44.5 - 45° angle. (Scheme 67)

Note. The cylinder heads must be removed in order to perform this procedure. Refer to REMOVAL .

Scheme 67

1. Remove rocker arms and lash adjusters. (Refer to «ROCKER ARM - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) or «ROCKER ARM - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ). (Scheme 68)
2. Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the camshaft. NOTE: All six valve springs and valves are removed in the same manner; this procedure only covers one valve and valve spring.
3. Using Special Tool C-3422-B or C-3422-C Valve Spring Compressor and Special tool 8519 Adapter, compress the valve spring. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks enough to be removed.
4. Remove the two spring retainer lock halves. NOTE: The valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring compressor.
5. Remove the valve spring compressor.
6. Remove the spring retainer, and the spring. NOTE: Check for sharp edges on the keeper grooves. Remove any burrs from the valve stem before removing the valve from the cylinder head.
7. Remove the valve from the cylinder head. NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.
8. Remove the valve stem seal. Mark the valve for proper installation.

TESTING VALVE SPRINGS

Note. Whenever the valves are removed from the cylinder head it is recommended that the valve springs be inspected and tested for reuse.

Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear or damage. Turn table of tool C-647 until surface is in line with the 40.12 mm (1.579 in.) mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place spring over the stud on the table and lift compressing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench until a Ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This will give the spring load at test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS to obtain specified height and allowable tensions. Replace any springs that do not meet specifications. (Scheme 69)

Scheme 68

Scheme 69

Scheme 70

1. coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and insert it into the cylinder head.
2. Install the valve stem seal. make sure the seal is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top of the seal is intact.
3. Install the spring and the spring retainer. (Scheme 70)
4. Using the valve spring compressor, compress the spring and install the two valve spring retainer halves.
5. Release the valve spring compressor and make sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring retainer are fully seated.
6. Lubricate the camshaft journal with clean engine oil, then position the camshaft (with the sprocket dowel on the left camshaft at 11 o'clock and the right camshaft at 12 o'clock), then position the camshaft bearing caps.
7. Install the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts 9-13 N.m (100 in. lbs.) in 1/2 turn increments in the sequence shown. (Scheme 71)
8. Position the hydraulic lash adjusters and rocker arms. (Refer to «ROCKER ARM - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).

The rocker arms are steel stampings with an integral roller bearing. The rocker arms incorporate a 2.8 mm (0.11 inch) oil hole in the lash adjuster socket for roller and camshaft lubrication.

Note. Disconnect the battery negative cable to prevent accidental starter engagement.

Scheme 71

1. Remove the cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
2. For rocker arm removal on cylinder No. 4, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC intake stroke.
3. For rocker arm removal on cylinder No. 1, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC combustion stroke.
4. For rocker arm removal on cylinders No. 3 and No. 5, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at TDC exhaust stroke.
5. For rocker arm removal on cylinders No. 2 and No. 6, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at TDC ignition stroke.
6. Using special tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover, press downward on the valve spring, remove rocker arm. (Scheme 72)

Note. Coat the rocker arms with clean engine oil prior to installation.

Scheme 72

1. For rocker arm installation on cylinders No. 4, rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC intake stroke.
2. For rocker arm installation on cylinder No. 1, rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC combustion stroke.
3. For rocker arm installation on cylinders No. 3 and No. 5, rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at TDC exhaust stroke.
4. For rocker arm installation on cylinders No. 2 and No. 6, rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at TDC ignition stroke.
5. Using special tool 8516, press downward on the valve spring, and install rocker arm. (Scheme 73)
6. Install the cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).

The valve guide seals are made of rubber and incorporate an integral steel valve spring seat. The integral garter spring maintains consistent lubrication control to the valve stems.

The valve springs are made from high strength chrome silicon steel. The springs are NOT common for intake and exhaust applications. The exhaust spring has an external damper. The valve spring seat is integral with the valve stem seal, which is a positive type seal to control lubrication.

1. Remove the cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
2. Using Special Tool 8516 Valve Spring Compressor, remove the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash adjusters.
3. Remove the spark plug for the cylinder the valve spring and seal are to be removed from.
4. Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place when the spring is removed. NOTE: All six valve springs and seals are removed in the same manner; this procedure only covers one valve seal and valve spring.
5. Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compressor, compress the valve spring. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks enough to be removed.
6. Remove the two spring retainer lock halves. NOTE: The valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring compressor.
7. Remove the valve spring compressor. NOTE: The valve springs are NOT common between intake and exhaust.
8. Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
9. Remove the valve stem seal.

Note. The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.

Note. All six valve springs and seals are removed in the same manner; this procedure only covers one valve seal and valve spring.

1. Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place while the spring is installed. NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.
2. Install the valve stem seal. NOTE: The valve springs are NOT common between intake and exhaust.
3. Install the spring retainer, and the spring.
4. Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compressor, compress the valve spring.
5. Install the two spring retainer lock halves. NOTE: The valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring compressor.
6. Remove the valve spring compressor.
7. Disconnect the shop air to the cylinder.
8. Install the spark plug for the cylinder the valve spring and seal was installed on.
9. Using Special Tool 8516 Valve Spring Compressor, install the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash adjusters.
10. Install the cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER

A tappet-like noise may be produced from several items. Check the following items.

1. Engine oil level too high or too low. This may cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to be spongy.
2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be required.
3. Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has reached normal operating temperature.
4. Low oil pressure.
5. The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.
6. Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked oil pump pick up.
7. Worn valve guides.
8. Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer.
9. Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
10. Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylinder head.
11. Faulty lash adjuster. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy adjusters can be bottomed out easily. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.

1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side exhaust manifold.
4. Drain the engine coolant.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Remove the intake manifold. (Refer to «INTAKE MANIFOLD»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
7. Remove the cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
8. Remove the fan shroud.
9. Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
10. Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to «SPECIFICATIONS & DRIVE BELT ROUTING»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#cooling-system-specifications-drive-belt-routing) .
11. Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark.
12. Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket is at the 12 o'clock position. Rotate the crankshaft one turn if necessary.
13. Remove the crankshaft damper. (Refer to «VIBRATION DAMPER»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
14. Remove the timing chain cover. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S)»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
15. Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler sprocket using Special Tool 8429 Timing Chain Holding Fixture. NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to removal to aid in installation.
16. Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on each side of the V6 mark on the camshaft drive gear.
17. Remove the right side secondary chain tensioner. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
18. Remove the cylinder head access plug.
19. Remove the right side secondary chain guide. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ). CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed, torque nut to 5 N.m (44 in. lbs.).
20. Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. Severe damage to the valve train can occur. CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to remove the cylinder head without removing these four bolts. CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft target wheel for any reason. A damaged target wheel can result in a vehicle no start condition. NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder block with twelve bolts.
21. Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
22. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard the gasket.

Note. The cylinder head bolts are tightened using a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked down the bolts should be replaced.

Necking can be checked by holding a straight edge against the threads. (Scheme 74) If all the threads do not contact the scale, the bolt should be replaced.

Scheme 73

Scheme 74

Scheme 75

1. Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces. (Scheme 75)
2. Position the new cylinder head gasket on the locating dowels. CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
3. Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over the locating dowels. NOTE: The four M8 cylinder head mounting bolts require sealant to be added to them before installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
4. Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with clean engine oil and install the eight M10 bolts.
5. Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with MOPAR Lock and Seal Adhesive then install the bolts. NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using an angle torque procedure, however, the bolts are not a torque-to-yield design.
6. Tighten the bolts in sequence using the following steps and torque values: Step 1: Tighten bolts 1-8, 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.). Step 2: Verify that bolts 1-8, all reached 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.), by repeating step 1 without loosening the bolts. Tighten bolts 9 thru 12 to 14 N.m (10 ft. lbs.). Step 3: Tighten bolts 1-8, 90°. (Scheme 76) Step 4: Tighten bolts 1-8, 90°, again. Tighten bolts 9-12, 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.) CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed, torque nut to 5 N.m (60 in. lbs.).
7. Position the secondary chain onto the camshaft drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on either side of the V6 mark on the gear then using Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, position the gear onto the camshaft. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket retaining bolt before reinstalling bolt. Failure to do so may cause over-torquing of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
8. Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
9. Install the right side secondary chain guide. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
10. Install the cylinder head access plug.
11. Reset and install the right side secondary chain tensioner. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
12. Remove Special Tool 8429.
13. Install the timing chain cover. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S)»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
14. Install the crankshaft damper. (Refer to «VIBRATION DAMPER»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ). Tighten damper bolt 175 N.m (130 Ft. Lbs.).
15. Install accessory drive belt. Refer to «SPECIFICATIONS & DRIVE BELT ROUTING»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#cooling-system-specifications-drive-belt-routing).
16. Install the fan shroud.
17. Install the cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
18. Install the intake manifold. (Refer to «INTAKE MANIFOLD»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
19. Install oil fill housing onto cylinder head.
20. Refill the cooling system.
21. Raise the vehicle.
22. Install the exhaust pipe onto the right exhaust manifold.
23. Lower the vehicle.
24. Reconnect battery negative cable.
25. Start the engine and check for leaks.

The camshafts consist of powdered metal steel lobes which are sinter-bonded to a steel tube. Four bearing journals are machined into the camshaft. Camshaft end play is controlled by two thrust walls that border the nose piece journal. Engine oil enters the hollow camshafts at the third journal and lubricates every intake lobe rocker through a drilled passage in the intake lobe.

1. Remove the cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
2. Set engine to TDC cylinder No. 1, camshaft sprocket V6 marks at the 12 o'clock position.
3. Mark one link on the secondary timing chain on both sides of the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket to aid in installation. CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft target wheel for any reason, Severe damage will occur to the target wheel. A damaged target wheel could cause a vehicle no start condition.
4. Loosen but DO NOT remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt. Leave bolt snug against sprocket. NOTE: The timing chain tensioners must be secured prior to removing the camshaft sprockets. Failure to secure tensioners will allow the tensioners to extend, requiring timing chain cover removal in order to reset tensioners. CAUTION: Do not force wedge past the narrowest point between the chain strands. Damage to the tensioners may occur.
5. Position Special Tool 8379 timing chain wedge between the timing chain strands. Tap the tool to securely wedge the timing chain against the tensioner arm and guide.
6. Remove the camshaft position sensor.
7. Hold the camshaft with Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, while removing the camshaft sprocket bolt and sprocket.
8. Starting at the outside working inward, loosen the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts 1/2 turn at a time. Repeat until all load is off the bearing caps. CAUTION: DO NOT stamp or strike the camshaft bearing caps. severe damage will occur to the bearing caps. NOTE: When the camshaft is removed the rocker arms may slide downward, mark the rocker arms before removing camshaft.
9. Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the camshaft.

Scheme 76

1. Lubricate camshaft journals with clean engine oil. NOTE: Position the right side camshaft so that the camshaft sprocket dowel is near the 10 o'clock position, This will place the camshaft at the neutral position easing the installation of the camshaft bearing caps.
2. Position the camshaft into the cylinder head.
3. Install the camshaft bearing caps, hand tighten the retaining bolts. NOTE: Caps should be installed so that the stamped numbers on the caps are in numerical order, (1 thru 4) from the front to the rear of the engine. All caps should be installed so that the stamped arrows on the caps point toward the front of the engine.
4. Working in 1/2 turn increments, tighten the bearing cap retaining bolts starting with the middle cap working outward. (Scheme 77)
5. Torque the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts to 11 N.m (100 in. lbs.).
6. Position the camshaft drive gear into the timing chain aligning the V6 mark between the two marked chain links (Two links marked during removal).
7. Using Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, rotate the camshaft until the camshaft sprocket dowel is aligned with the slot in the camshaft sprocket. Install the sprocket onto the camshaft. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can cause bolt over torque resulting in bolt failure.
8. Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket bolt, then install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and hand tighten.
9. Remove timing chain wedge special tool 8379.
10. Using Special Tool 6958 spanner wrench with adapter pins 8346, torque the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.).
11. Install the camshaft position sensor.
12. Install the cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).

1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Drain cooling system, below the level of the heater hoses.
4. Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to «SPECIFICATIONS & DRIVE BELT ROUTING»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#cooling-system-specifications-drive-belt-routing) .
5. Remove air conditioning compressor retaining bolts and move compressor to the left.
6. Remove heater hoses.
7. Disconnect injector and ignition coil connectors.
8. Disconnect and remove positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
9. Remove oil fill tube.
10. Unclip injector and ignition coil harness and move away from cylinder head cover.
11. Remove right rear breather tube and filter assembly.
12. Remove cylinder head cover retaining bolts.
13. Remove cylinder head cover.

Note. The gasket may be used again, provided no cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.

1. Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing surfaces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
2. Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double ended studs to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
3. Install right rear breather tube and filter assembly.
4. Connect injector, ignition coil electrical connectors and harness retaining clips.
5. Install the oil fill tube.
6. Install PCV hose.
7. Install heater hoses.
8. Install air conditioning compressor retaining bolts.
9. Install accessory drive belt. Refer to «SPECIFICATIONS & DRIVE BELT ROUTING»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#cooling-system-specifications-drive-belt-routing) .
10. Fill Cooling system.
11. Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
12. Connect battery negative cable.

The rocker arms are steel stampings with an integral roller bearing. The rocker arms incorporate a 2.8 mm (0.11 inch) oil hole in the lash adjuster socket for roller and camshaft lubrication.

Note. Disconnect the battery negative cable to prevent accidental starter engagement.

Scheme 77

1. Remove the cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul).
2. For rocker arm removal on cylinder No. 4, rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC intake stroke.
3. For rocker arm removal on cylinder No. 1, rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC combustion stroke.
4. For rocker arm removal on cylinders No. 3 and No. 5, rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at TDC exhaust stroke.
5. For rocker arm removal on cylinders No. 2 and No. 6, rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at TDC ignition stroke.
6. Using special tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover, press downward on the valve spring, remove rocker arm. (Scheme 78)

The valve guide seals are made of rubber and incorporate an integral steel valve spring seat. The integral garter spring maintains consistent lubrication control to the valve stems.

The valve springs are made from high strength chrome silicon steel. There are different springs for intake and exhaust applications. The exhaust spring has an external damper. The valve spring seat is integral with the valve stem seal, which is a positive type seal to control lubrication.

1. Remove the cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
2. Using Special Tool 8516 Valve Spring Compressor, remove the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash adjusters.
3. Remove the spark plug for the cylinder the valve spring and seal are to be removed from.
4. Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place when the spring is removed. NOTE: All six valve springs and seals are removed in the same manner; this procedure only covers one valve seal and valve spring.
5. Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compressor, compress the valve spring. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks enough to be removed.
6. Remove the two spring retainer lock halves. NOTE: The valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring compressor.
7. Remove the valve spring compressor. NOTE: The valve springs are NOT common between intake and exhaust.
8. Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
9. Remove the valve stem seal.

Note. The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.

Note. All six valve springs and seals are removed in the same manner; this procedure only covers one valve seal and valve spring.

1. Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place while the spring is installed. NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.
2. Install the valve stem seal. NOTE: The valve springs are NOT common between intake and exhaust.
3. Install the spring retainer, and the spring.
4. Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compressor, compress the valve spring.
5. Install the two spring retainer lock halves. NOTE: The valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring compressor.
6. Remove the valve spring compressor.
7. Disconnect the shop air to the cylinder.
8. Install the spark plug for the cylinder the valve spring and seal was installed on.
9. Using Special Tool 8516 Valve Spring Compressor, install the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash adjusters.
10. Install the cylinder head cover. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).

The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To provide high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to the block. The block design allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included in the cast aluminum front cover.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING

Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft area.

Scheme 78

1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the required limits. CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with 280 grit stones (C-3501--3810). about 20--60 strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing oil C-3501--3880, or a light honing oil, available from major oil distributors. CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern. The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings. (Scheme 79)
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-hatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.

CLEANING

Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.

Use compressed air to clean out

1. The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
2. The front and rear oil galley holes.
3. The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.

Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N.m (177 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N.m (240 in. lbs.) torque.

Scheme 79

1. It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer. (Scheme 80)
2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
3. Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat the measurement near the middle of the bore, then repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
4. Determine taper by subtracting the smaller diameter from the larger diameter.
5. Rotate measuring device 90° and repeat steps above.
6. Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the difference between each measurement.
7. If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out-of-round condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine has been in use for a period of time.

The crankshaft is constructed of nodular cast iron. The crankshaft is a three throw split pin design with six counterweights for balancing purposes. The crankshaft is supported by four select fit main bearings with the No. 2 serving as the thrust washer location. The main journals of the crankshaft are cross drilled to improve rod bearing lubrication. The No. 6 counterweight has provisions for crankshaft position sensor target wheel mounting. The select fit main bearing markings are located on the rear side of the target wheel. (Scheme 81) The crankshaft oil seals are one piece design. The front oil seal is retained in the timing chain cover, and the rear seal is pressed in to a bore formed by the cylinder block and the bedplate assembly.

Scheme 80

Note. To remove the crankshaft from the engine, the engine must be removed from the vehicle.

Scheme 81

1. Remove the engine. (Refer to «REMOVAL»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul__removal) ).
2. Remove the engine oil pump. (Refer to «OIL PUMP»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ). CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted to the cylinder block in three locations and will remain attached to block when removing oil pan. Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.
3. Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the location of the two stud bolts for installation.
4. Remove the connecting rods from the crankshaft. CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating surface is a critical sealing surface. Do not pry on or damage this surface in anyway. NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bearing halves. Use care when handling bedplate as not to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing main bearing halves in the wrong position will cause severe damage to the crankshaft. NOTE: The bedplate has pry points cast into it. Use these points only. The pry points are shown in illustration below.
5. Carefully pry on the pry points (Scheme 82) to loosen the bedplate then remove the bedplate. CAUTION: When removing the crankshaft, use care not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
6. Remove the crankshaft.
7. Remove the crankshaft tone wheel.

INSPECTION

Note. Thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bearing bores and main bearing bores for scoring, blueing or severe scratches. Further disassembly may be required.

If connecting rod bearing bores show damage, the cylinder heads must be removed to service the piston and rod assemblies. If the bedplate or the cylinder block main bearing bores show damage the engine must be replaced.

1. If required, remove the main bearing halves from the cylinder block and bedplate.
2. Thoroughly clean the bedplate to cylinder block sealing surfaces and main bearing bores. Remove all oil and sealant residue.
3. Inspect the bedplate main bearing bores for cracks, scoring or severe blueing. If either condition exists the engine must be replaced.
4. Inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for scoring, scratches, wear or blueing. If either condition exist replace the thrust washers.
5. Inspect the oil pan gasket/windage tray for splits, tears or cracks in the gasket sealing surfaces. Replace gasket as necessary.

Note. Apply sealant to the tone wheel retaining screws prior to installation.

Scheme 82

Scheme 83

Scheme 84

1. Lubricate upper main bearing halves with clean engine oil.
2. Install the crankshaft tone wheel. Torque the mounting screws to 15 N.m (11 ft. lbs.).
3. Position crankshaft in cylinder block.
4. Install the thrust washer. (Scheme 83) CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating surface must be coated with MOPAR® Engine RTV sealant prior to installation. Failure to do so will cause severe oil leaks. NOTE: Make sure that the bedplate and cylinder block sealing surfaces are clean and free of oil or other contaminants. Contaminants on the sealing surfaces may cause main bearing distortion and/or oil leaks.
5. Apply a 2.5 mm (0.100 inch) bead of MOPAR® Engine RTV sealant to the cylinder block-to-bedplate mating surface as shown. (Scheme 84)
6. Coat the crankshaft main bearing journals with clean engine oil and position the bedplate onto the cylinder block. NOTE: Lubricate the bedplate retaining bolts with clean engine oil prior to installation.
7. Install the bedplate retaining bolts, making sure to place the stud bolts in the correct location, Torque the bolts in the sequence shown. (Scheme 85) Hand tighten bolts 1D, 1G and 1F until the bedplate contacts the block. Tighten bolts 1A-1J to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.) Tighten bolts 1-8 to 7 N.m (5 ft. lbs.) Turn bolts 1-8 an additional 90°. Tighten bolts A-E 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).
8. Measure crankshaft end play.
9. Install the connecting rods and measure side clearance. (Refer to «STANDARD PROCEDURE»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
10. Install oil pump. (Refer to «OIL PUMP»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
11. Install the engine. (Refer to «INSTALLATION»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul__installation) ).

SELECT FIT IDENTIFICATION

The main bearings are "select fit" to achieve proper oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crankshaft position sensor target wheel has grade identification marks stamped into it. (Scheme 86) These marks are read from left to right, corresponding with journal number 1, 2, 3, 4. The crankshaft position sensor target wheel is mounted to the number 6 counter weight on the crankshaft.

Scheme 85

Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material imbedded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert wear patterns are illustrated.

Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrapings or irregular wear patterns.

Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage.

Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.

MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER (CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)

Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block. (Refer to CRANKSHAFT ).

Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.

Determine the maximum diameter of the journal with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90° apart at each end of the journal.

The maximum allowable taper is 0.008 mm (0.0004 inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005 mm (0.002 inch). Compare the measured diameter with the journal diameter specification. (Scheme 87) and (Scheme 88) Select inserts required to obtain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.

Install the crankshaft into the cylinder block. (Refer to INSPECTION ).

Check crankshaft end play.

Scheme 86

Scheme 87

1. Service main bearings are available in four grades. The charts below identify the four service grades available. (Scheme 87) and (Scheme 88)

Scheme 88

Scheme 89

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to «SPECIFICATIONS & DRIVE BELT ROUTING»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#cooling-system-specifications-drive-belt-routing).
3. Remove A/C compressor mounting fasteners and set aside.
4. Drain cooling system.
5. Remove upper radiator hose.
6. Disconnect electrical connector for fan mounted inside radiator shroud.
7. Remove radiator shroud attaching fasteners. NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud lower right hand corner.
8. Remove radiator cooling fan and shroud.
9. Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
10. Remove damper using Special Tools 8513 Insert and 1026 Three Jaw Puller. (Scheme 89)
11. Using Special Tool 8511, remove crankshaft front seal. (Scheme 90)

Scheme 90

1. Using Special Tool 8348 and 8512, install crankshaft front seal. (Scheme 91)
2. Install vibration damper. (Refer to «VIBRATION DAMPER»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
3. Install radiator cooling fan and shroud.
4. Install upper radiator hose.
5. Install A/C compressor and tighten fasteners to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
6. Install accessory drive belt refer. Refer to «SPECIFICATIONS & DRIVE BELT ROUTING»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#cooling-system-specifications-drive-belt-routing).
7. Refill cooling system.
8. Connect negative cable to battery.

Note. This procedure can be performed in vehicle.

Scheme 91

1. If being preformed in vehicle, remove the transmission.
2. Remove the flexplate. NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused after removal. NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal, remover Special Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal. Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
3. Using Special Tool 8506 (Scheme 92), remove the crankshaft rear oil seal.

Scheme 92

Scheme 93

1. Lubricate the crankshaft flange with engine oil.
2. Position the magnetic seal guide Special Tool 8349-2 (Scheme 93) onto the crankshaft rear face. Then position the crankshaft rear oil seal onto the guide.
3. Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer and C-4171 Driver Handle (Scheme 94), with a hammer, tap the seal into place. Continue to
4. Install the flexplate.
5. Install the transmission.

1. Remove the transmission.
2. Remove the bolts and flexplate.

Scheme 94

1. Position the flexplate onto the crankshaft and install the bolts hand tight.
2. Tighten the flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown. ( (Scheme 95).
3. Install the transmission.

The pistons are made of a high strength aluminum alloy. The connecting rods are made of forged powdered metal, with a "fractured cap" design. A full floating piston pin is used to attach the piston to the connecting rod. (Scheme 96)

Scheme 95

CONNECTING ROD BEARING FITTING

Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring. Check the bearings for normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue and pitting. (Scheme 97) Replace any bearing that shows abnormal wear.

Scheme 96

Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of scoring, nicks and burrs. (Scheme 98)

Scheme 97

Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft connecting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to any of these components indicate the probability of a misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted connecting rods.

Scheme 98

Scheme 99

Scheme 100

Scheme 101

1. Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.
2. Lubricate the upper bearing insert and position in connecting rod. Center bearing insert in connecting rod. (Scheme 99)
3. Use piston ring compressor and Guide Pins Special Tool 8507 (Scheme 100) to install the rod and piston assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must face front of the engine. The "F"'s near the piston wrist pin bore should point to the front of the engine.
4. Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing cap. Center bearing insert in connecting rod. (Scheme 99) The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plastigage across full width of the lower insert at the center of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
5. Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the journal and tighten bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
6. Remove the bearing cap and determine amount of bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the width of compressed Plastigage. (Scheme 101) Refer to «SPECIFICATIONS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) for the proper clearance. Plastigage should indicate the same clearance across the entire width of the insert. If the clearance varies, it may be caused by either a tapered journal, bent connecting rod or foreign material trapped between the insert and cap or rod.
7. If the correct clearance is indicated, replacement of the bearing inserts is not necessary. Remove the Plastigage from crankshaft journal and bearing insert. Proceed with installation.
8. If bearing-to-journal clearance exceeds the specification, determine which services bearing set to use the bearing sizes are as follows. (Scheme 102) CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened or removed.
9. Repeat the Plastigage measurement to verify your bearing selection prior to final assembly.
10. Once you have selected the proper insert, install the insert and cap. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn.

Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the connecting rod and crankshaft journal flange. (Scheme 103) Refer to SPECIFICATIONS for the proper clearance. Replace the connecting rod if the side clearance is not within specification.

Scheme 102

Scheme 103

Scheme 104

1. To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at a point 38.0 mm (1.5 inches) below top of bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crankshaft at point A and then take an additional bore reading 90 degrees to that at point B. (Scheme 104)
3. The coated pistons will be serviced with the piston pin and connecting rod pre-assembled.
4. The coating material is applied to the piston after the final piston machining process. Measuring the outside diameter of a coated piston will not provide accurate results. (Scheme 105) Therefore measuring the inside diameter of the cylinder bore with a dial Bore Gauge is MANDATORY. To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) increments is required.
5. Piston installation into the cylinder bore requires slightly more pressure than that required for non-coated pistons. The bonded coating on the piston will give the appearance of a line-to-line fit with the cylinder bore.

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove the following components: Oil pan and gasket/windage tray. (Refer to «OIL PAN»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ). Cylinder head covers. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ). Timing chain cover. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S)»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ). Cylinder head(s). (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ) and (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
3. If necessary, remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons from cylinder block. Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered during this operation. Pistons and connecting rods must be removed from top of cylinder block. When removing piston and connecting rod assemblies from the engine, rotate crankshaft so the each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore. CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch to mark connecting rods or caps, as damage to connecting rods could occur. NOTE: Connecting rods and bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be marked before removing to ensure correct reassembly.
4. Mark connecting rod and bearing cap positions using a permanent ink marker or scribe tool. CAUTION: Care must be taken not to damage the fractured rod and cap joint face surfaces, as engine damage may occur.
5. Remove connecting rod cap. Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod Guides into the connecting rod being removed. Remove piston from cylinder bore. Repeat this procedure for each piston being removed. CAUTION: Care must be taken not to nick crankshaft journals, as engine damage may occur.
6. Immediately after piston and connecting rod removal, install bearing cap on the mating connecting rod to prevent damage to the fractured cap and rod surfaces.

1. Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pistons in warm water and towel dry.
2. Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring land grooves.

Check the connecting rod journal for excessive wear, taper and scoring. (Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE ).

Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bending.

Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape before it is fitted into the cylinder bore. (Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE ).

Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks and/or deterioration.

Scheme 105

Scheme 106

1. Before installing piston and connecting rod assemblies into the bore, install the piston rings.
2. Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine oil. Position a ring compressor over the piston and rings. Tighten ring compressor. Ensure position of rings do not change during this operation.
3. Position bearing onto connecting rod. Ensure that hole in bearing shell aligns with hole in connecting rod. Lubricate bearing surface with clean engine oil.
4. Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod Guides into connecting rod bolt threads. (Scheme 106)
5. The pistons are marked on the piston pin bore surface with an raised "F" indicating installation position. This mark must be pointing toward the front of engine on both cylinder banks. The connecting rod oil slinger slot faces the front of the engine. (Scheme 107)
6. Wipe cylinder bore clean and lubricate with engine oil.
7. Rotate crankshaft until connecting rod journal is on the center of cylinder bore. Insert rod and piston into cylinder bore and carefully position connecting rod guides over crankshaft journal.
8. Tap piston down in cylinder bore using a hammer handle. While at the same time, guide connecting rod into position on rod journal. CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened or removed.
9. Lubricate rod bolts and bearing surfaces with engine oil. Install connecting rod cap and bearing. Tighten bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) plus 90°.
10. Install the following components: Cylinder head(s). (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) or «CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ). Timing chain and cover. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S)»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ). Cylinder head covers. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ). Oil pan and gasket/windage tray. (Refer to «OIL PAN»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
11. Fill crankcase with proper engine oil to correct level.
12. Connect negative cable to battery.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON RING FITTING

Before reinstalling used rings or installing new rings, the ring clearances must be checked.

Scheme 107

Scheme 108

Scheme 109

Scheme 110

Scheme 111

Scheme 112

1. Wipe the cylinder bore clean.
2. Insert the ring in the cylinder bore. NOTE: The ring gap measurement must be made with the ring positioned at least 12 mm (0.50 inch.) from bottom of cylinder bore.
3. Using a piston, to ensure that the ring is squared in the cylinder bore, slide the ring downward into the cylinder.
4. Using a feeler gauge check the ring end gap (Scheme 108) Replace any rings not within specification. PISTON RING SIDE CLEARANCE NOTE: Make sure the piston ring grooves are clean and free of nicks and burrs.
5. Measure the ring side clearance as shown (Scheme 109) make sure the feeler gauge fits snugly between the ring land and the ring. Replace any ring not within specification.
6. Rotate the ring around the piston, the ring must rotate in the groove with out binding.
7. The No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings have a different cross section. Ensure No. 2 ring is installed with manufacturers I.D. mark (Dot) facing up, towards top of the piston. NOTE: Piston rings are installed in the following order: Oil ring expander. Upper oil ring side rail. Lower oil ring side rail. No. 2 Intermediate piston ring. No. 1 Upper piston ring.
8. Install the oil ring expander.
9. Install upper side rail (Scheme 111) by placing one end between the piston ring groove and the expander ring. Hold end firmly and press down the portion to be installed until side rail is in position. Repeat this step for the lower side rail.
10. Install No. 2 intermediate piston ring using a piston ring installer. (Scheme 112)
11. Install No. 1 upper piston ring using a piston ring installer. (Scheme 112)
12. Position piston ring end gaps as shown in (Scheme 113) It is important that expander ring gap is at least 45° from the side rail gaps, but not on the piston pin center or on the thrust direction.

Scheme 113

Scheme 114

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to «SPECIFICATIONS & DRIVE BELT ROUTING»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#cooling-system-specifications-drive-belt-routing).
3. Drain cooling system.
4. Remove radiator upper hose.
5. Remove upper fan shroud.
6. Using Special Tools 6958 Spanner with Adapter Pins 8346, loosen fan and viscous assembly from water pump. (Scheme 114)
7. Remove fan and viscous assembly.
8. Disconnect electrical connector for fan mounted inside radiator shroud. NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud lower right hand corner.
9. Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
10. Remove damper using Special Tools 8513 Insert and 1026 Three Jaw Puller. (Scheme 115)

Scheme 115

Scheme 116

1. Align crankshaft damper slot with key in crankshaft. Slide damper onto crankshaft slightly. CAUTION: Special Tool 8512-A, is assembled in a specific sequence. Failure to assemble this tool in this sequence can result in tool failure and severe damage to either the tool or the crankshaft.
2. Assemble Special Tool 8512-A as follows, The nut is threaded onto the shaft first. Then the roller bearing is placed onto the threaded rod (The hardened bearing surface of the bearing MUST face the nut). Then the hardened washer slides onto the threaded rod. (Scheme 116) Once assembled coat the threaded rod's threads with MOPAR® Nickel Anti-Seize or equivalent.
3. Using Special Tool, press damper onto crankshaft. (Scheme 117)
4. Install then tighten crankshaft damper bolt to 175 N.m (130 ft. lbs.).
5. Install fan blade assembly.
6. Install radiator upper shroud and tighten fasteners to 11 N.m (95 in. lbs.).
7. Connect electrical connector for shroud fan.
8. Install radiator upper hose.
9. Install accessory drive belt. Refer to «SPECIFICATIONS & DRIVE BELT ROUTING»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#cooling-system-specifications-drive-belt-routing).
10. Refill cooling system.
11. Connect negative cable to battery.

The structural dust cover is made of die cast aluminum and joins the lower half of the transmission bell housing to the engine bedplate.

OPERATION

The structural cover provides additional powertrain stiffness and reduces noise and vibration.

Scheme 117

1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
2. Remove the left hand exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold.
3. Loosen the right hand exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe retaining bolts.
4. Remove the eight bolts retaining structural cover (Scheme 118) in the sequence shown.
5. Pivot the exhaust pipe downward and remove the structural cover.

Scheme 118

1. Position the structural cover in the vehicle.
2. Install all four bolts retaining the cover-to-engine. DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time.
3. Install the four cover-to-transmission bolts. DO NOT tighten at this time. CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly against both the engine and the transmission bell housing during tightening sequence. Failure to do so may cause damage to the cover.
4. Starting with the two rear cover-to-engine bolts, tighten bolts (1) (Scheme 119) to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.), then tighten bolts (2) and (3) to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
5. Install the exhaust pipe on left hand exhaust manifold.
6. Tighten exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe retaining bolts to 20-26 N.m (15-20 ft. lbs.).

2WD

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
2. Remove the viscous fan.
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove the engine oil filter.
5. Remove the oil drain trough.
6. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
7. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
8. Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle.
9. Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
10. Lower the front axle.
11. Remove the through bolts
12. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left and right engine mounts.
13. Remove the (8) mount to engine attaching bolts.
14. Remove the engine mounts.

Scheme 119

Scheme 120

Scheme 121

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
2. Remove the viscous fan.
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove the skid plate.
5. Remove the front crossmember.
6. Remove the engine oil filter.
7. Remove the oil drain trough.
8. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
9. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
10. Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle. (Scheme 120)
11. Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
12. Lower the front axle.
13. Remove the (6) through bolts
14. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left (Scheme 121) and right (Scheme 122) engine mounts.
15. Remove the engine mounts.

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply MOPAR® Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.

1. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the engine block with (8) bolts. Torque bolts to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
2. Insert the (2) through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
3. Lower the engine until the through bolts rest onto the slots in the frame brackets.
4. Tighten the through bolt nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the oil drain trough.
6. Install the engine oil filter.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Install the viscous fan.
9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

4WD

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply MOPAR® Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlock.

Scheme 122

1. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the front axle. Torque nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
2. Raise the front axle into the frame and install the left and right side through bolts. Torque nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
3. Insert the two upper through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
4. Lower the engine until the left and right side engine brackets rest on the through bolts, and the lower engine bracket through holes align with the engine mounts, and the left engine bracket holes align with the front axle slots. (Scheme 123)
5. Loose assemble the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
6. Loose assemble the lower through bolts.
7. Torque the nuts for the (4) through bolts to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
8. Torque the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
9. Install the oil drain trough.
10. Install the engine oil filter.
11. Install the front crossmember.
12. Install the skid plate.
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Install the viscous fan.
15. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Scheme 123

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
3. Remove the nuts from the transmission mount. (Scheme 124)
4. Remove the two bolts that attach the transmission mount to the engine bracket.
5. Raise the transmission enough to remove the mount from the crossmember.
6. Remove the mount.

Note. Threadlocking compound must be applied to the bolts before installation.

1. Install the two bolts that attach the transmission mount to the transmission bracket.
2. Torque the bolts to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
3. Lower the transmission so the transmission mount rests on the crossmember, and the studs of the transmission mount are aligned in the slots in the crossmember.
4. Install the nuts onto the transmission mount studs through the crossmember access slot.
5. Torque the nuts to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).

The lubrication system is a full flow filtration pressure feed type.

Oil from the oil pan is pumped by a gerotor type oil pump directly mounted to the crankshaft nose. Oil pressure is controlled by a relief valve mounted inside the oil pump housing. For lubrication flow, refer to (Scheme 125)

The camshaft exhaust valve lobes and rocker arms are lubricated through a small hole in the rocker arm; oil flows through the lash adjuster then through the rocker arm and onto the camshaft lobe. Due to the orientation of the rocker arm, the camshaft intake lobes are not lubed in the same manner as the exhaust lobes. The intake lobes are lubed through internal passages in the camshaft. Oil flows through a bore in the No. 3 camshaft bearing bore, and as the camshaft turns, a hole in the camshaft aligns with the hole in the camshaft bore allowing engine oil to enter the camshaft tube. The oil then exits through 1.6 mm (0.063 in.) holes drilled into the intake lobes, lubricating the lobes and the rocker arms.

Scheme 124

Scheme 125

Scheme 126

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK

Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed

1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair leak as needed.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspection. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method.

Air Leak Detection Test Method

1. Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
2. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
3. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube. CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
4. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applying soapy water at the suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
5. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to «INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul__inspection-for-rear-seal-area-leaks) .
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.

INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak: Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal, camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase using «AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul__air-leak-detection-test-method) . CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi)
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.

Scheme 127

1. Remove oil pressure sending unit (Scheme 128) and install gauge assembly C-3292.
2. Run engine until thermostat opens.
3. Oil Pressure: Curb Idle - 25 kPa (4 psi) minimum 3000 RPM - 170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
4. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief valve stuck open.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak: Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. Check and repair appropriate component as needed.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crankcase using «AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul__air-leak-detection-test-method) . CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. (Refer to «DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ), under the Oil Leak row, for components inspections on possible causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, (Refer to «CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).

The engine oil pan is made of laminated steel and has a single plane sealing surface. The sandwich style oil pan gasket has an integrated windage tray and steel carrier. (Scheme 129) The sealing area of the gasket is molded with rubber and is designed to be reused as long as the gasket is not cut, torn or ripped.

Scheme 128

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Install Engine Support Fixture Special Tool - 8534. DO NOT raise engine at this time.
3. Loosen both left and right side engine mount through bolts. Do not remove bolts.
4. Remove the structural dust cover, if equipped.
5. Drain engine oil.
6. Remove the front crossmember. CAUTION: Only raise the engine enough to provide clearance for oil pan removal. Check for proper clearance at fan shroud to fan and cowl to intake manifold.
7. Raise engine using special tool 8534 to provide clearance to remove oil pan. NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gasket is integral to engine windage tray and does not come out with oil pan.
8. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts and oil pan.
9. Unbolt oil pump pickup tube and remove tube.
10. Inspect the integral windage tray (Scheme 129) and gasket and replace as needed.

1. Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a clean cloth.
2. Clean the oil pan gasket surface. DO NOT use a grinder wheel or other abrasive tool to clean sealing surface.
3. Clean oil screen and tube thoroughly in clean solvent.

1. Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for stripped or damaged threads. Repair as necessary.
2. Inspect the oil pan mounting flange for bends or distortion. Straighten flange, if necessary.

Scheme 129

1. Clean the oil pan gasket mating surface of the bedplate and oil pan.
2. Inspect integrated oil pan gasket, and replace as necessary.
3. Position the integrated oil pan gasket/windage tray assembly.
4. Install the oil pickup tube
5. Install the mounting bolt and nuts. Tighten nuts to 28 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).
6. If removed, install stud at position No. 9. (Scheme 130)
7. Position the oil pan and install the mounting bolts and nut. Tighten the mounting bolts and nut to 15 N.m (11 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown. (Scheme 130)
8. Lower the engine into mounts using special tool 8534.
9. Install both the left and right side engine mount through bolts. Tighten the nuts to 68 N.m (50 ft. lbs.).
10. Remove special tool 8534.
11. Install structural dust cover, if equipped.
12. Install the front crossmember.
13. Fill engine oil.
14. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
15. Start engine and check for leaks.

The 3 wire, solid-state engine oil pressure sensor (sending unit) is located in an engine oil pressure gallery.

The oil pressure sensor uses three circuits. They are

1. A 5 volt power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
2. A sensor ground through the PCM's sensor return
3. A signal to the PCM relating to engine oil pressure

The oil pressure sensor has a 3 wire electrical function very much like the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. Meaning different pressures relate to different output voltages.

A 5 volt supply is sent to the sensor from the PCM to power up the sensor. The sensor returns a voltage signal back to the PCM relating to engine oil pressure. This signal is then transferred (bussed) to the instrument panel on either a CCD or PCI bus circuit (depending on vehicle line) to operate the oil pressure gauge and the check gauges lamp. Ground for the sensor is provided by the PCM through a low-noise sensor return.

Scheme 130

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Remove front splash shield.
4. Disconnect oil pressure sending unit wire. (Scheme 131)
5. Remove the pressure sender. (Scheme 131)

1. Install oil pressure sender.
2. Connect oil pressure sender wire.
3. Install front splash shield.
4. Lower vehicle.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.

1. Remove the oil pan and pick-up tube. (Refer to «OIL PAN»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
2. Remove the timing chain cover. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S)»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
3. Remove the timing chains and tensioners. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
4. Remove the four bolts, primary timing chain tensioner and the oil pump.

DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove oil pump cover screws and lift off cover plate.
2. Remove pump inner and outer rotors. NOTE: Once the oil pressure relief valve, cup plug, and pin are removed, the pump assembly must be replaced.
3. If it is necessary to remove the pressure relief valve, drive the roll pin from pump housing and remove cup plug, spring and valve.

Scheme 131

Scheme 132

Scheme 133

Scheme 134

Scheme 135

Scheme 136

1. Clean all parts thoroughly. Mating surface of the oil pump housing should be smooth. If the pump cover is scratched or grooved the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
2. Lay a straight edge across the pump cover surface. (Scheme 132) If a 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) feeler gauge can be inserted between the cover and the straight edge the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
3. Measure the thickness of the outer rotor. (Scheme 133) If the outer rotor thickness measures at 12.005 mm (0.472 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
4. Measure the diameter of the outer rotor. If the outer rotor diameter measures at 85.925 mm (3,382 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
5. Measure the thickness of the inner rotor. (Scheme 134) If the inner rotor thickness measures at 12.005 mm (0.472 in.) or less then the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
6. Slide outer rotor into the body of the oil pump. Press the outer rotor to one side of the oil pump body and measure clearance between the outer rotor and the body. (Scheme 135) If the measurement is 0.235 mm (0.009 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
7. Install the inner rotor in the into the oil pump body. Measure the clearance between the inner and outer rotors. (Scheme 136) If the clearance between the rotors is.150 mm (0.006 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
8. Place a straight edge across the body of the oil pump (between the bolt holes. If a feeler gauge of.095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater can be inserted between the straightedge and the rotors, the pump must be replaced. (Scheme 137)

Note. The 4.7 Oil pump is released as an assembly. There are no Daimler-Chrysler part numbers for Sub-Assembly components. In the event the oil pump is not functioning or out of specification, it must be replaced as an assembly.

ASSEMBLY

1. Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect carefully for damage or wear.
2. Install inner and outer rotors
3. Install oil pump cover plate and install cover bolts and tighten them to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
4. Prime oil pump before installation by filling rotor cavity with engine oil.
5. If oil pressure is low and pump is within specifications, inspect for worn engine bearings or other causes for oil pressure loss.

Scheme 137

1. Position the oil pump onto the crankshaft and install one oil pump retaining bolts.
2. Position the primary timing chain tensioner and install three retaining bolts.
3. Tighten the oil pump and primary timing chain tensioner retaining bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.) in the sequence shown. (Scheme 138)
4. Install the secondary timing chain tensioners and timing chains. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
5. Install the timing chain cover. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S)»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
6. Install the pick-up tube and oil pan. (Refer to «OIL PAN»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).

All engines are equipped with a high quality full-flow, disposable type oil filter. Daimler-Chrysler Corporation recommends a MOPAR® or equivalent oil filter be used.

Scheme 138

1. Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
2. Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
3. Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise (Scheme 139) to remove it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
4. When filter separates from cylinder block oil filter boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil spill. Remove filter from vehicle. NOTE: Make sure filter gasket was removed with filter.
5. With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing surface of oil and grime.

Scheme 139

1. Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine oil.
2. Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket makes contact with sealing surface, (Scheme 140) hand tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
3. Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start engine. Inspect for oil leaks.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL SERVICE

The engine oil level indicator is located at the right rear of the engine on the 3.7L engine. (Scheme 141)

Scheme 140

CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION

Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800 kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhibited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil level on a cold engine is not accurate.

To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level. The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.

1. Position vehicle on level surface.
2. With engine OFF, allow approximately ten minutes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove engine oil dipstick.
3. Wipe dipstick clean.
4. Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the tube.
5. Remove dipstick, with handle held above the tip, take oil level reading.
6. Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on dipstick.

ENGINE OIL CHANGE

Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in Maintenance Schedules.

Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.

1. Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
2. Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
3. Remove oil fill cap.
4. Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
5. Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if damaged.
6. Install drain plug in crankcase.
7. Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type and amount of engine oil described in this section.
8. Install oil fill cap.
9. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
10. Stop engine and inspect oil level.

Note. Care should be exercised when disposing used engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this section.

The intake manifold (Scheme 142) is made of a composite material and features 300 mm (11.811 in.) long runners which maximizes low end torque. The intake manifold uses single plane sealing which consist of six individual press in place port gaskets to prevent leaks. The throttle body attaches directly to the intake manifold. Eight studs and two bolts are used to fasten the intake to the head.

Scheme 141

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKS

An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or more cylinders may not be functioning.

1. Start the engine.
2. Spray a small stream of water (spray bottle) at the suspected leak area.
3. If engine RPM'S change, the area of the suspected leak has been found.
4. Repair as required.

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
4. Disconnect electrical connectors for the following components: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
5. Disconnect vapor purge hose, brake booster hose, speed control servo hose, positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
6. Disconnect generator electrical connections.
7. Disconnect air conditioning compressor electrical connections.
8. Disconnect left and right radio suppressor straps.
9. Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers.
10. Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and ground strap.
11. Bleed fuel system.
12. Remove fuel rail.
13. Remove throttle body assembly and mounting bracket.
14. Drain cooling system below coolant temperature level.
15. Remove the heater hoses from the engine front cover and the heater core.
16. Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes from intake manifold.
17. Remove coolant temperature sensor.
18. Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in reverse order of tightening sequence.
19. Remove intake manifold.

Scheme 142

1. Install intake manifold gaskets.
2. Install intake manifold.
3. Install intake manifold retaining bolts and tighten in sequence shown in to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.). (Scheme 143)
4. Install left and right radio suppressor straps.
5. Install throttle body assembly.
6. Connect throttle cable and speed control cable to throttle body.
7. Install fuel rail.
8. Install ignition coil towers.
9. Position and install heater hoses and tubes onto intake manifold.
10. Install the heater hoses to the heater core and engine front cover.
11. Connect electrical connectors for the following components: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor Ignition coil towers Fuel injectors
12. Install top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and ground strap.
13. Connect generator electrical connections.
14. Connect Vapor purge hose, Brake booster hose, Speed control servo hose, Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
15. Fill cooling system. (Refer to
16. Install resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
17. Connect negative cable to battery.

The exhaust manifolds (Scheme 144) are log style with a patented flow enhancing design to maximize performance. The exhaust manifolds are made of high silicon molybdenum cast iron. A perforated core graphite exhaust manifold gasket is used to improve sealing to the cylinder head. The exhaust manifolds are covered by a three layer laminated heat shield for thermal protection and noise reduction. The heat shields (Scheme 145) are fastened with a torque prevailing nut that is backed off slightly to allow for the thermal expansion of the exhaust manifold.

Scheme 143

Scheme 144

Scheme 145

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
4. Lower the vehicle.
5. Remove the exhaust heat shield. (Scheme 146)
6. Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching manifold to cylinder head.
7. Remove manifold and gasket from the cylinder head.

Scheme 146

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
4. Lower the vehicle.
5. Remove the exhaust heat shields. (Scheme 147)
6. Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching manifold to cylinder head.
7. Remove manifold and gasket from the cylinder head.

RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

1. Position the engine exhaust manifold and gasket on the two studs located on the cylinder head. Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
2. Install remaining conical washers. Starting at the center arm and working outward, tighten the bolts and nuts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
3. Install the exhaust heat shields.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
5. Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.

LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

1. Position the engine exhaust manifold and gasket on the two studs located on the cylinder head. Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
2. Install remaining conical washers. Starting at the center arm and working outward, tighten the bolts and nuts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
3. Install the exhaust heat shields.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
5. Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.

The timing drive system has been designed to provide quiet performance and reliability to support a non-free wheeling engine. Specifically the intake valves are non-free wheeling and can be easily damaged with forceful engine rotation if camshaft-to-crankshaft timing is incorrect. The timing drive system consists of a primary chain, two secondary timing chain drives (Scheme 148) and a counterbalance shaft drive.

Scheme 147

The primary timing chain is a single inverted tooth chain type. The primary chain drives the large 50 tooth idler sprocket directly from a 25 tooth crankshaft sprocket. Primary chain motion is controlled by a pivoting leaf spring tensioner arm and a fixed guide. The arm and the guide both use nylon plastic wear faces for low friction and long wear. The primary chain receives oil splash lubrication from the secondary chain drive and designed oil pump leakage. The idler sprocket assembly connects the primary chain drive, secondary chain drives, and the counterbalance shaft. The idler sprocket assembly consists of two integral 26 tooth sprockets a 50 tooth sprocket and a helical gear that is press-fit to the assembly. The spline joint for the 50 tooth sprocket is a non serviceable press fit anti rattle type. A spiral ring is installed on the outboard side of the 50 tooth sprocket to prevent spline disengagement. The idler sprocket assembly spins on a stationary idler shaft. The idler shaft is a light press-fit into the cylinder

There are two secondary drive chains, both are roller type, one to drive the camshaft in each SOHC cylinder head. There are no shaft speed changes in the secondary chain drive system. Each secondary chain drives a 26 tooth cam sprocket directly from the 26 tooth sprocket on the idler sprocket assembly. A fixed chain guide and a hydraulic oil damped tensioner are used to maintain tension in each secondary chain system. The hydraulic tensioners for the secondary chain systems are fed pressurized oil from oil reservoir pockets in the block. Each tensioner incorporates a controlled leak path through a device known as a vent disc located in the nose of the piston to manage chain loads. Each tensioner also has a mechanical ratchet system that limits chain slack if the tensioner piston bleeds down after engine shut down. The tensioner arms and guides also utilize nylon wear faces for low friction and long wear. The secondary timing chains receive lubrication from a small orifice in the tensioners. This orifice is protected from clogging by a fine mesh screen which is located on the back of the hydraulic tensioners.

MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR

Note. This procedure must be performed with the timing chain cover removed.

Scheme 148

1. Remove the timing chain cover. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S)»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
2. To determine if the secondary timing chains are worn, rotate the engine clockwise until maximum tensioner piston extension is obtained. Measure the distance between the secondary timing chain tensioner housing and the step ledge on the piston. The measurement at point (A) must be less than 15 mm (.5906 inches). (Scheme 149)
3. If the measurement exceeds the specification the secondary timing chains are worn and require replacement. (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).

SERVICE PROCEDURE - TIMING VERIFICATION

Note. Components referred to as left hand or right hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside the vehicle.

Note. The blue link plates on the chains and the dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line up during the timing verification procedure. The blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots only when re-timing the complete timing drive. Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot alignment is no longer valid.

Engine base timing can be verified by the following procedure

Scheme 149

Scheme 150

1. Remove the cylinder head covers. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul).
2. Using a mirror, locate the TDC arrow on the front cover. (Scheme 150) Rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the TDC arrow on the front cover. The engine is now at TDC.
3. Note the location of the V6 mark stamped into the camshaft drive gears. If the V6 mark on each camshaft drive gear is at the twelve o'clock position, the engine is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. If the V6 mark on each gear is at the six o'clock position, the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke. (Scheme 151)
4. If both of the camshaft drive gears are off in the same or opposite directions, the primary chain or both secondary chains are at fault. Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul).
5. If only one of the camshaft drive gears is off and the other is correct, the problem is confined to one secondary chain. Refer to «TIMING - SINGLE CAMSHAFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul__timing-single-camshaft).
6. If both camshaft drive gear V6 marks are at the twelve o'clock or the six o'clock position the engine base timing is correct. Reinstall the cylinder head covers. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul).

Scheme 151

1. Ensure that the engine is at TDC with both camshaft sprocket V6 marks in the 12 o'clock position. (Scheme 151)
2. Look down the left cylinder head chain cavity. The timing dot on the counterbalance shaft drive gear should be in the 6 o'clock position. (Scheme 152)

TIMING - SINGLE CAMSHAFT

Note. To adjust the timing on one camshaft, perform the following procedure.

Scheme 152

Scheme 153

1. Using Chain Tensioner Wedge (Scheme 153), Special Tool 8379, stabilize the secondary chain drive. For reference purposes, mark the chain-to-sprocket position. (Scheme 154)
2. Remove the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
3. Carefully remove the camshaft drive gear from the camshaft. (Scheme 154)
4. Reindex the camshaft drive gear in the chain until the V6 mark is at the same position as the V6 mark on the opposite camshaft drive gear.
5. Using Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, rotate the camshaft until the alignment dowel on the camshaft is aligned with the slot in the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket retaining bolt before reinstalling bolt. Failure to do so may cause over torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
6. Position the camshaft drive gear onto the camshaft, remove oil from bolt then install the retaining bolt. Using Special Tools, Spanner Wrench 6958 with Adapter Pins 8346 and a suitable torque wrench, Tighten retaining bolt to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.).
7. Remove Special Tool 8379.
8. Rotate the crankshaft two full revolutions, then verify that the camshaft drive gear V6 marks are in fact aligned.
9. Install the cylinder head covers. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul).

Scheme 154

Scheme 155

1. Remove the primary and secondary timing chains. Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul). NOTE: The balance shaft and gear are serviced as an assembly. Do not attempt to remove the gear from the balance shaft. Remove the retaining bolt from the counterbalance shaft thrust plate. (Scheme 155)
2. Using Special Tool 8641 Counterbalance shaft remover/installer tool, remove the counterbalance shaft from the engine. (Scheme 156)

Note. The balance shaft and gear are serviced as an assembly. DO NOT attempt to remove the gear from the balance shaft.

1. Coat counterbalance shaft bearing journals with clean engine oil. NOTE: The balance shaft is heavy, and care should be used when installing shaft, so bearings are not damaged.
2. Using Special Tool 8641 Counterbalance shaft remover/installer tool, carefully install counterbalance shaft into engine.
3. Install Counterbalance shaft thrust plate retaining bolt finger tight. DO NOT tighten bolt at this time.
4. Position the right side of the thrust plate with the right chain guide bolt, install bolt finger tight.
5. Torque the thrust plate retaining bolt to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
6. Remove the chain guide bolt so that guide can be installed.

1. Remove the primary and secondary timing chains and sprockets. Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) . NOTE: To remove the idler shaft, it is necessary to tap threads into the shaft, to install the removal tool.
2. Using a 12 mm X 1.75 tap, cut threads in the idler shaft center bore.
3. Cover the radiator core with a suitable cover. CAUTION: Use care when removing the idler shaft, Do not strike the radiator cooling fins with the slide hammer.
4. Using Special Tool 8517 Slide Hammer, remove the idler shaft.

1. Thoroughly clean the idler shaft bore.
2. Position the idler shaft in the bore. NOTE: The two lubrication holes in the idler shaft do not require any special alignment. NOTE: Before using the retaining bolt to install the idler shaft coat the threads and the pilot on the idler shaft, with clean engine oil.
3. Using the primary idler sprocket retaining bolt and washer, carefully draw the idler shaft into the bore until fully seated.
4. Coat the idler shaft with clean engine oil.
5. Install the timing chains and sprockets. Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) .

Scheme 156

Scheme 157

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Drain cooling system.
3. Remove electric cooling fan and fan shroud assembly.
4. Remove fan and fan drive assembly.
5. Disconnect both heater hoses at timing cover.
6. Disconnect lower radiator hose at engine.
7. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner assembly. (Scheme 157)
8. Remove crankshaft damper. (Refer to «VIBRATION DAMPER»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
9. Remove the generator. (Refer to «GENERATORS & REGULATORS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/charging-system/#charging-system-generators-regulators) ).
10. Remove A/C compressor. CAUTION: The 3.7L engine uses an anaerobic sealer instead of a gasket to seal the front cover to the engine block, from the factory. For service, MOPAR® Engine RTV sealant must be substituted. NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the water pump for timing cover removal.
11. Remove the bolts holding the timing cover to engine block. (Scheme 158)
12. Remove the timing cover.

Scheme 158

Scheme 159

1. Clean timing chain cover and block surface using rubbing alcohol. CAUTION: The 3.7L uses a special anaerobic sealer instead of a gasket to seal the timing cover to the engine block, from the factory. For service repairs, MOPAR® Engine RTV must be used as a substitute.
2. Inspect the water passage o-rings for any damage, and replace as necessary.
3. Apply MOPAR® Engine RTV sealer to front cover following the path below using a 3 to mm thick bead. (Scheme 159)
4. Install cover. Tighten fasteners in sequence as shown in (Scheme 160) to 58 N.m (43 ft. lbs.).
5. Install crankshaft damper. (Refer to «VIBRATION DAMPER»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
6. Install the A/C compressor.
7. Install the generator. (Refer to «GENERATORS & REGULATORS»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/charging-system/#charging-system-generators-regulators) ).
8. Install accessory drive belt tensioner assembly. (Scheme 157)
9. Install radiator upper and lower hoses.
10. Install both heater hoses.
11. Install electric fan shroud and viscous fan drive assembly.
12. Fill cooling system.
13. Connect the battery negative cable.

Scheme 160

Scheme 161

Scheme 162

Scheme 163

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Drain cooling system.
3. Remove right and left cylinder head covers. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
4. Remove radiator fan shroud.
5. Rotate engine until timing mark on crankshaft damper aligns with TDC mark on timing chain cover (Scheme 161) and the camshaft sprocket "V6" marks are at the 12 o'clock position (No. 1 TDC exhaust stroke). (Scheme 162)
6. Remove power steering pump. «STEERING»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system) ).
7. Remove access plug from left and right cylinder heads for access to chain guide fasteners. (Scheme 163)
8. Remove the oil fill housing to gain access to the right side tensioner arm fastener.
9. Remove crankshaft damper (Refer to «VIBRATION DAMPER»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ) and timing chain cover (Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S)»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ).
10. Collapse and pin primary chain tensioner. CAUTION: Plate behind left secondary chain tensioner could fall into oil pan. Therefore, cover pan opening.
11. Remove secondary chain tensioners.
12. Remove camshaft position sensor. (Scheme 164) CAUTION: Care should be taken not to damage camshaft target wheel. Do not hold target wheel while loosening or tightening camshaft sprocket. Do not place the target wheel near a magnetic source of any kind. A damaged or magnetized target wheel could cause a vehicle no start condition. CAUTION: Do not forcefully rotate the camshafts or crankshaft independently of each other. Damaging intake valve to piston contact will occur. Ensure negative battery cable is disconnected to guard against accidental starter engagement.
13. Remove left and right camshaft sprocket bolts.
14. While holding the left camshaft steel tube with Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, remove the left camshaft sprocket. Slowly rotate the camshaft approximately 5 degrees clockwise to a neutral position.
15. While holding the right camshaft steel tube with Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, remove the right camshaft sprocket.
16. Remove idler sprocket assembly bolt.
17. Slide the idler sprocket assembly and crank sprocket forward simultaneously to remove the primary and secondary chains.
18. Remove both pivoting tensioner arms and chain guides.
19. Remove primary chain tensioner.

Inspect the following components

1. Sprockets for excessive tooth wear. Some tooth markings are normal and not a cause for sprocket replacement.
2. Idler sprocket assembly bushing and shaft for excessive wear.
3. Idler sprocket assembly spline joint. The joint should be tight with no backlash or axial movement.
4. Chain guides and tensioner arms. Replace these parts if grooving in plastic face is more than 1 mm (0.039 in.) deep. If plastic face is severely grooved or melted, the tensioner lube jet may be clogged. The tensioner should be replaced.
5. Secondary chain tensioner piston and ratcheting device. Inspect for evidence of heavy contact between tensioner piston and tensioner arm. If this condition exist the tensioner arm and chain should be replaced.
6. Primary chain tensioner plastic faces. Replace as required.

Scheme 164

Scheme 165

Scheme 166

Scheme 167

Scheme 168

Scheme 169

1. Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool, release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against spring force through access hole on side of tensioner. While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on front of tensioner. (Scheme 165) Slowly open vise to transfer piston spring force to lock pin.
2. Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner bracket. Tighten bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
3. Install right side chain tensioner arm. Install Torx® bolt. Tighten Torx® bolt to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.). CAUTION: The silver bolts retain the guides to the cylinder heads and the black bolts retain the guides to the engine block.
4. Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
5. Install left side chain tensioner arm, and Torx® bolt. Tighten Torx® bolt to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
6. Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
7. Install both secondary chains onto the idler sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary chains to be visible through the two lower openings on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once the secondary timing chains are installed, position special tool 8429 to hold chains in place for installation.
8. Align primary chain double plated links with the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket. Align the primary chain single plated link with the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket.
9. Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean engine oil. NOTE: The idler sprocket must be timed to the counterbalance shaft drive gear before the idler sprocket is fully seated.
10. Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and idler sprocket as an assembly. (Scheme 166) After guiding both secondary chains through the block and cylinder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap or equivalent. This will maintain tension on chains to aid in installation. Align the timing mark on the idler sprocket gear to the timing mark on the counterbalance shaft drive gear, then seat idler sprocket fully. (Scheme 167) Before installing idler sprocket bolt, lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket assembly retaining bolt to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.). NOTE: It will be necessary to slightly rotate camshafts for sprocket installation.
11. Align left camshaft sprocket "L" dot to plated link on chain.
12. Align right camshaft sprocket "R" dot to plated link on chain. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
13. Remove Special Tool 8429, then attach both sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts, then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
14. Verify that all plated links are aligned with the marks on all sprockets and the "V6" marks on camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position. CAUTION: Ensure the plate between the left secondary chain tensioner and block is correctly installed.
15. Install both secondary chain tensioners. Tighten bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.). NOTE: Left and right secondary chain tensioners are not common.
16. Remove all locking pins (3) from tensioners. CAUTION: After pulling locking pins out of each tensioner, DO NOT manually extend the tensioner(s) ratchet. Doing so will over tension the chains, resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads.
17. Using Special Tool 6958, Spanner with Adaptor Pins 8346, tighten left (Scheme 168) and right (Scheme 169) camshaft sprocket bolts to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.).
18. Rotate engine two full revolutions. Verify timing marks are at the follow locations: primary chain idler sprocket dot is at 12 o'clock primary chain crankshaft sprocket dot is at 6 o'clock secondary chain camshaft sprockets "V6" marks are at 12 o'clock counter-balancer shaft drive gear dot is aligned to the idler sprocket gear dot
19. Lubricate all three chains with engine oil.
20. After installing all chains, it is recommended that the idler gear end play be checked. The end play must be within 0.10 -0.25 mm (0.004 - 0.010 in.). If not within specification, the idler gear must be replaced. see scheme 170
21. Install timing chain cover and crankshaft damper. Refer to procedures.
22. Install cylinder head covers. (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - RIGHT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - LEFT»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/mechanical/#37l-engine-overhaul) ). NOTE: Before installing threaded plug in right cylinder head, the plug must be coated with sealant to prevent leaks.
23. Coat the large threaded access plug with MOPAR® Thread Sealant with Teflon, then install into the right cylinder head and tighten to 81 N.m (60 ft. lbs.).
24. Install the oil fill housing.
25. Install access plug in left cylinder head.
26. Install power steering pump. (Refer to «STEERING»(/dodge/pickup-r1500/1997-2012/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system) ).
27. Fill cooling system.
28. Connect negative cable to battery.

See also:
• DISC
• SPECIFICATIONS & DRIVE BELT ROUTING
• GENERATORS & REGULATORS
• STEERING
• DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
• DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE
• DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
• DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
• REMOVAL
• INSTALLATION
• INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
• AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD
• TIMING - SINGLE CAMSHAFT