2.2l/2.5l Tbi Tests W/codes Dodge Daytona I

DESCRIPTION

Note. Additional diagnostic information that relates strictly to the fuel portion of this system can be found in the FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM - TBI article in the FUEL SYSTEMS section under the ENGINE PERFORMANCE category.

The computerized engine control systems used on 2.2L and 2.5L fuel injected engines control the fuel system, ignition system and emission control system for proper engine operation. Throttle Body Injection (TBI) is used.

In order to control these systems, the computer monitors several engine and vehicle operating conditions. The engine conditions monitored include: manifold absolute pressure, throttle position, throttle body temperature, coolant temperature, manifold air temperature, exhaust gas oxygen content and vehicle speed/distance sensor.

Vehicle conditions monitored include vehicle speed and the status (off or on) of several vehicle systems that affect engine load. These include the transmission neutral safety, brake light and A/C clutch switches.

The Single Module Engine Controller (SMEC) controls the entire ignition system. The SMEC has a built in microprocessor that continually receives input from the engine monitoring sensors. The computer electronically advances and retards timing and adjusts the air/fuel mixture to provide even driveability and the most efficient fuel burn possible during operation.

Single Module Engine Controller (SMEC). Scheme 20

Schematic of TBI Computer, Input Sensors & Output Devices. Scheme 21

TROUBLE CODE-TO-TEST MENU

TROUBLE CODE-TO-TEST MENU

TESTING & DIAGNOSIS PRELIMINARY CHECKS

Most driveability problems in the engine control system result from faulty or poor wiring, or loose and/or leaking hose connections. To avoid unnecessary component testing, a visual check should be performed before beginning trouble shooting procedures to help spot these common faults. A preliminary visual check should include the following

1. Air ducts to air cleaner and from air cleaner to throttle body.
2. Electrical connections at all components. Clean, tight and unbroken.

Check vacuum lines for secure, leak-free connections in the following areas

1. Throttle body.
2. EGR, purge, and barometric read solenoids
3. Vapor canister.
4. Vacuum source and fuel pressure regulator.
5. PCV valve.
6. PCV valve to intake manifold vacuum port.
7. Backpressure transducer.
8. MAP sensor.

Ensure that the following electrical connectors are securely attached

1. 14-pin and 60-pin connectors at the Single Module Engine Controller (SMEC).
2. 3-pin heated O2 sensor connector.
3. 2-pin coolant temperature sensor connector.
4. Check engine light.
5. 2-pin distance sensor connector.
6. 3-pin MAP sensor connector.
7. 2-pin canister purge solenoid connector.
8. 3-pin distributor connector.
9. 3-pin Black distributor reference connector.
10. 2-pin EGR diagnostic solenoid connector.
11. 3-pin TPS connector.
12. 4-pin AIS motor connector.
13. 2-pin throttle body temperature sensor connector.
14. 4-pin A/C cut-out relay connector.
15. 3 and 1-pin radiator fan relay connector.
16. 4-pin ASD relay connector.
17. 4-pin and 1-pin barometric read wastegate and purge solenoid connector.

SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS

Note. You will not get a code 88 if you are using the "CHECK ENGINE LIGHT" to diagnose the engine control system. There will be a 2-second bulb check, followed by the codes and ending with a code 55. A code 88 will only be set when using Chrysler's DRB: II Tester. Some other "SCAN" testers may also set a code 88 under certain conditions. Check manufacture equipment for specific instructions.

The self-diagnostic capabilities of this system, if properly utilized, can greatly simplify testing. The SMEC has been programmed to monitor several different circuits of the fuel injection system. If a problem is sensed with a monitored circuit often enough to indicate an actual problem, a fault code is stored in the SMEC.

A check engine light comes on or could be activated for display of trouble codes. This light acts as a warning device to inform the operator that a malfunction in the system has occurred and immediate service is required.

When certain malfunctions occur, the SMEC enters the "Limp-In Mode". In this mode, the SMEC attempts to compensate for the failure of the particular component by substituting information from other sources. This will allow the vehicle to be operated until proper repairs can be made.

Once these codes are known, refer to the trouble codes listed in this article to determine the questionable circuit. Then use the wiring diagrams to locate testing points for each circuit. Test circuits and repair or replace as needed. If the problem is repaired or ceases to exist, the logic module cancels the trouble code after 50-100 ignition on/off cycles.

DIAGNOSTIC MODE

1. Attach the Chrysler DRB II Tester (C-4805) to self-test connector. The connector is located in the engine compartment near the right side shock tower. If diagnostic readout box is not available, codes may be read off of the "Check Engine Light".
2. Start engine (if possible). Move transmission shift lever through all positions, ending in Park. Turn A/C switch on, then off (if equipped).
3. Stop the engine and, without starting it again, turn key on, off, on, off and on. Record 2-digit trouble codes as displayed on readout box or by counting flashes on check engine light.
4. The 2-digit codes displayed by the check engine light are indicated by a series of flashes. For example, code 23 is displayed as flash, flash, 4-second pause, flash, flash, flash. After a slightly longer pause, any other codes stored are displayed in numerical order. Once the light begins to display trouble codes, it cannot be stopped. If you lose count, it will be necessary to start over with step 2).
5. Code 88 indicates start of test. A code 88 will only be set when using Chrysler's DRB: II Tester. Some other "SCAN" testers may also set a code 88 under certain conditions. Check manufacture equipment for specific instructions. If 88-12-55 is displayed, this indicates that there are no fault codes stored.
6. The setting of a specific trouble code is the result of a particular system failure, NOT the reason for that failure, such as failure of a specific component. Therefore, the existence of a particular code denotes the probable area of the malfunction, not necessarily the failed component itself.

SWITCH TEST MODE

The digital display must change between 00 and 88 (Chrysler DRB-II tester) and the flashing of the "Check Engine Light" when the following switches are activated and released

1. Brake Switch.
2. Gear Shift Selector.
3. A/C Switch (if equipped).

CIRCUIT ACTUATION TEST MODE (ATM)

1. Put system into Diagnostic Mode. Wait for code 55 to appear on readout box display. Press ATM button on readout box and hold until the desired ATM test code is displayed. Release ATM button.
2. The computer will continue to turn the selected circuit on and off for as long as 5 minutes or until ATM button is pressed again or ignition is turned off.

SENSOR TEST MODE

The sensor test mode allows the output of 7 sensors and the state of 3 switches to be displayed on the tester while the engine is not running. This provides a means by which the entire circuit for each individual sensor and switch can be checked, including the wiring and SMEC circuitry.

To obtain sensor test mode

1. Put system into diagnostic test mode and wait for code 55 to appear on display screen.
2. Press ATM button to activate display. Hold ATM button down until the desired test code appears.
3. Slide switch to "Hold" position to display the corresponding sensor output level.

ENGINE RUNNING TEST MODE

1. Connect diagnostic tool to engine harness connector. Engine running test mode can performed with engine at idle, transmission in neutral and parking brake on, or while driving the car.
2. To select a test code, move switch to "Read" position, depress actuator button until the desired code appears.
3. Release actuator button, switch read/hold switch to "Hold" position. The SMEC will monitor that system test and results will be displayed.

Note. If using a diagnostic readout box other than Chrysler's DRB II, follow manufacturer's instructions on how to connect readout box and obtain codes. Some of these other readout boxes will display information that is not contained in this testing. This information may not be relative to diagnosing a problem. Only information in this article should be used during diagnosis.

TROUBLE CODE DESCRIPTIONS

The TBI and MPFI injection systems are equipped with a self-diagnostic capability which stores certain trouble codes in the SMEC when system malfunctions occur. Trouble codes are 2-digit numbers that will tell you if certain sequences or conditions have occurred. Fault codes indicate the results of a failure but do not always identify the failed component.

Code 88

First code displayed to indicate start of test. This code must appear first or diagnostic codes will be incorrect. A code 88 will only be set when using Chrysler's DRB: II Tester. Some other "SCAN" testers may also set a code 88 under certain conditions. Check manufacture equipment for specific instructions.

Note. You will not get a code 88 if you are using the "CHECK ENGINE LIGHT" to diagnose the engine control system. There will be a 2-second bulb check, followed by the codes and ending with a code 55. A code 88 will only be set when using Chrysler's DRB: II Tester. Some other "SCAN" testers may also set a code 88 under certain conditions. Check manufacture equipment for specific instructions.

Code 11

Distributor signal circuit. Displayed if no distributor signal is sent to SMEC after restoration of battery voltage.

Code 12

Memory standby power. Displayed if battery feed to SMEC has been disconnected within last 30 engine starts.

Code 13

MAP sensor pneumatic system. Check engine light also turned on. Displayed if sensor vacuum level does not change between cranking and when engine starts.

Code 14

MAP sensor electrical system. Check engine light also turned on. Displayed if MAP sensor signal is outside range of .02-4.9 volts.

Code 15

Code indicates a problem with vehicle distance/speed sensor circuit.

Code 16

Loss of battery voltage sensed. Displayed if battery sensing voltage drops below 4 volts or between 7.5-8.5 volts for more than 20 seconds.

Code 17

Engine running too cool. Displayed if engine coolant temperature does not reach 160°F (71°C) after 20 minutes running time.

Code 21

Oxygen (O2) sensor feedback circuit. Displayed if no oxygen sensor signal is sensed for more than 22 seconds when in closed loop.

Code 22

Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) circuit. Check engine light also turned on. Displayed if sensor voltage is above 4.96 volts on cold engine or below .51 volts on warm engine.

Code 24

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) circuit. Check engine light also turned on. Displayed if sensor signal is below .16 volts or above 4.7 volts.

Code 25

AIS motor driver circuit. Displayed if proper voltage not present in AIS circuit. Open circuit will not set this code.

Code 26

Fuel injector driver circuit. Displayed if current through injectors does not reach proper peak level.

Code 27

Fuel control circuit. Displayed if fuel control interface does not switch properly.

Code 31

Canister purge solenoid circuit. Displayed if solenoid does not turn on and off at correct time.

Code 32

EGR diagnosis is necessary (California only).

Code 33

A/C WOT cut-out relay. Displayed if relay does not turn on and off at correct time.

Code 34

Problem in speed control solenoid driver circuit.

Code 35

Radiator fan relay circuit. Displayed if relay does not turn on and off at correct time.

Code 41

Alternator field control circuit. Displayed if field control does not switch properly.

Code 42

Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay circuit. Displayed if relay does not turn on and off at correct time.

Code 43

Spark control circuit. Displayed if spark control interface does not switch properly.

Code 44

Loss of power to SMEC.

Code 46

Battery voltage sensing circuit. Check engine light also turned on. Displayed if sensed battery voltage is greater than one volt above desired control voltage for longer than 20 seconds.

Code 47

Battery voltage sensing circuit. Displayed if sensed battery voltage is less than one volt below desired control voltage for more than 20 seconds.

Code 51

Oxygen feedback system circuit. Displayed if system stays lean for more than 2 minutes.

Code 52

Oxygen feedback system circuit. Displayed if system stays rich for more than 2 minutes.

Code 53

Internal logic module problem. Displayed if logic module fails.

Code 55

End of diagnostic mode. Always displayed as final code after all other fault codes have been displayed.

Note. In the following diagnostic testing, illustrations are supplied courtesy of Chrysler Motors.

ERASING CODES FROM SMEC MEMORY

1. To erase codes from memory, the DRB-II Tester (C-4805) MUST be used. Put system into Diagnostic Test Mode and wait for "55" to appear on display.
2. Press "READ/HOLD" key until "READ" is displayed. Press "F3" key, then enter Sensor Test Code "10" and press "ENTER" key. Press "READ/HOLD" key until "HOLD" is displayed.

Note. Since sensor test codes are the same as ATM codes, the ATM test circuit will turn on before "HOLD" is displayed.

Display will flash "0" for 4 seconds. When flashing stops, all codes have been cleared from memory.

NO START TEST INFORMATION

Because of the limited space available for titles in this product, NO START test title prefixes have been shortened to NS. This allows more information to be displayed in the option menu.

NS1 - IGNITION SYSTEM CHECK

Note. Before replacing major components, be sure connector pins or cavities are not damaged, preventing proper voltage and resistance readings.

1. Disconnect any spark plug wire. Insert an insulated screwdriver or spark tester into spark plug terminal. If using screwdriver, hold screwdriver shaft about 1/4" from a good ground. Have an assistant crank engine. CAUTION: Fault/Trouble Codes may erase and SMEC damage may occur if spark plug wire is held more than 1/4" from ground while cranking.
2. If there is good spark between screwdriver and ground as long as engine is cranking, go to «NS2»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes__ns2-fuel-system-check) . Treat 1-2 sparks as no spark. If there is no spark, go to next step.
3. Disconnect coil wire from distributor cap. Hold wire 1/4" away from ground. Crank engine. If there is good spark from coil wire, repair secondary ignition system. Check or replace distributor cap, rotor and spark plug wires. Treat 1-2 sparks as no spark.
4. If there is no spark, check coil wire. Remove air cleaner. Disconnect ignition coil wire from distributor cap and secure it to a good ground. Have an assistant crank engine while you observe fuel spray from injector. If fuel sprays from injector, go to «NS6»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes__ns6-ignition-control-system-fault) . If there is no fuel spray from injector, go to «NS14»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes__ns14-checking-system-for-fault) .

Ignition System Check. Scheme 22

NS2 - FUEL SYSTEM CHECK

Remove air cleaner. Disconnect ignition coil wire from distributor cap and secure it to a good ground. Have an assistant crank engine while you observe fuel spray from injector. If there is a slow steady stream of fuel spraying from injector, go to NS3 . If there is no fuel spray from injector, go to NS9 . If injector is spraying an excessive amount of fuel, go to NS13 .

Fuel System Check. Scheme 23

NS3 - CHECKING SMEC

Connect DRB II to engine harness connector. Put system into Diagnostic Test Mode. If code 88 is displayed on DRB II, go to NS4 . If code 88 is not displayed, replace SMEC for a defective logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure that the DRB II is functioning properly and that there is not an open circuit in wires between SMEC and diagnostic connector.

Checking SMEC. Scheme 24

NS4 - CHECK FOR FUEL FOULED SPARK PLUGS

Remove spark plugs. Inspect spark plug tips for wet fuel. If spark plugs are wet with fuel, clean and reinstall plugs. Attempt to start vehicle. If spark plugs are not wet with fuel, go to NS5 .

Note. It is normal for spark plugs to be Black after engine is started cold.

NS5 - CHECKING ENGINE TIMING

1. Connect timing light. Have an assistant crank engine while you observe timing marks. If timing is 0-16 degrees BTDC remove distributor cap and crank engine to ensure rotor is turning and is indexed correctly. Check engine compression and valve timing.
2. If timing is not between 0-16 degrees BTDC, set timing to 10 degrees BTDC during cranking. If engine starts, reset timing to specification. If engine does not start, remove distributor cap and crank engine to ensure distributor rotor is turning and is indexed correctly. Check engine compression and valve timing.

NS6 - IGNITION CONTROL SYSTEM FAULT CODE CHECK

Connect DRB II to engine harness connector. Put system in Diagnostic Test Mode. Record all codes. If 88-12-55 is displayed (no fault codes), go to NS7 . If 88-12-43-55 is displayed (spark control circuit), go to NS8 .

Scheme 25

Scheme 26

1. Connect DRB II to engine harness connector. Connect analog voltmeter to ignition coil positive terminal and ground. Put system in ATM Test "01". If voltmeter reading is battery voltage, go to step 2). If voltmeter reading is zero volts, repair Dark Green/Black wire to coil positive terminal for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. (Scheme 25): Ignition Control Circuit Check "A"
2. Connect voltmeter to ignition coil negative terminal (Black/Yellow wire) and ground. If voltmeter reading pulsates between 10-14 volts, replace ignition coil. If voltmeter reading is not pulsating, but reads greater than 10 volts, go to step 3). If voltmeter reading pulsates between 5-10 volts, replace ignition coil. If voltmeter reading is pulsating between 0-2 volts, go to step 4).
3. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 14-pin connector from SMEC. Connect ohmmeter to ignition coil negative terminal and 14-pin connector cavity No. 12. If there is not continuity, repair Black/Yellow wire to 14-pin connector cavity No. 12 for an open circuit to ignition coil. If there is continuity, replace SMEC for a defective power board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in connector cavity No. 12 is not damaged causing a poor connection. (Scheme 26): Ignition Control Circuit Check "B"
4. With DRB II connected to engine harness connector, turn ignition off. Disconnect Black/Yellow wire from negative side of ignition coil. Connect voltmeter to ignition coil negative terminal and ground. Put system in ATM Test "01". If voltmeter reading is between 0-2 volts, replace ignition coil.
5. If voltmeter reading is greater than 10 volts, turn ignition off. Leave ignition coil negative terminal disconnected. Disconnect 14-pin connector from SMEC. Connect ohmmeter to 14-pin connector cavity No. 12 and ground. If no continuity, replace SMEC for a defective power board. If there is continuity, repair Black/Yellow wire to cavity No. 12 for a short circuit to ground.

Scheme 27

Scheme 28

1. Connect DRB II to engine harness connector. Put system in Diagnostic Test Mode. Turn ignition off. Disconnect coil wire from distributor cap and hold wire 1/4" away from good ground. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect one end of a jumper wire to cavity No. 34 of 60-pin connector. Turn ignition on. (Scheme 27): Ignition Control Circuit Check (All Engines) "A"
2. Press and hold ATM key on DRB II. Touch other end of jumper wire to good ground. Make and break this connection several times. If there is spark as you make and break the connection, replace SMEC for a defective logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in cavity No. 34 is not damaged causing a poor connection.
3. If there is no spark as you make and break the connection, turn ignition off. Remove jumper wire from 60-pin connector. Disconnect 14-pin connector from SMEC. Connect ohmmeter leads to 60 pin connector cavity No. 34 and 14-pin connector cavity No. 13. (Scheme 28): Ignition Control Circuit Check (All Engines) "B"
4. If there is continuity, replace SMEC for a defective power board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in cavity No. 13 is not damaged causing a poor connection. If there is no continuity, repair Yellow wire to cavity No. 13 for an open circuit.

NS9 - CHECKING FUEL SYSTEM FOR FAULT CODES

Connect DRB II to engine harness connector. Put system in Diagnostic Test Mode. Record all codes. If 88-12-55 (no fault codes) or codes 88-12-26-55 (fuel injector driver circuit) are displayed, go to NS10 . If codes 88-12-27-55 (fuel injector control circuit) are displayed, go to NS12 .

Scheme 29

Scheme 30

1. Turn ignition off. Connect DRB II to engine harness connector. Install Fuel Pressure Gauge (C-3292 ) in fuel supply hose at throttle body. Bleed fuel system pressure before attempting to connect gauge. Put system in Diagnostic Test Mode. Press and hold ATM key on DRB II. If fuel gauge reading is 13.5-15.5 psi, go to step 2). If fuel gauge is not reading 13.5-15.5 psi, go to step 3). (Scheme 29): Fuel Pump Check "A"
2. Put system in Sensor Test "05". If display is greater than 1.5 volts, replace throttle position sensor. If display is less than 1.5 volts, go to «NS11»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes).
3. With system in Diagnostic Test Mode, press and hold ATM key on DRB II. Listen for intake fuel pump noise at rear of vehicle. If fuel pump is running, check fuel supply line and hoses between fuel tank and throttle body for restrictions. Check for plugged in-line and in-tank fuel filters.
4. With system in Diagnostic Test Mode, raise vehicle on a hoist. Disconnect in-tank fuel pump connector. Connect voltmeter to Dark Green/Black wire in fuel pump connector and ground. Press and hold ATM key on DRB II. If voltmeter reading is zero volts, repair Dark Green/Black wire for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. (Scheme 30): Fuel Pump Check "B"
5. If voltmeter is reading battery voltage, turn ignition off. Connect ohmmeter to Gray wire in fuel pump connector and ground. If there is continuity, replace in-tank fuel pump. If there is not continuity, repair Gray wire for an open circuit to body ground connection.

Fuel Pump Check "C". Scheme 31

Scheme 32

Scheme 33

Scheme 34

Scheme 35

1. Connect DRB II to engine harness connector. Put system in Diagnostic Test Mode. Disconnect fuel injector connector. Connect analog voltmeter to Dark Green/Black and White wire terminals in injector harness connector. Select lowest voltage scale available on voltmeter (4-volt scale is recommended). Put system in ATM Test "02". (Scheme 32): Checking Injector Control Circuits "A"
2. If voltmeter reading is not pulsating, go to step 3). If voltmeter reading is pulsating between zero and one volt, go to step 5). If voltmeter is showing negative voltage, reverse leads at injector connector and repeat test.
3. Connect voltmeter to injector harness connector Dark Green/Black wire and ground. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, go to next step. If voltmeter reading is zero volts, repair Dark Green/Black wire of injector harness connector for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. (Scheme 33): Checking Injector Control Circuits "B"
4. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 14-pin connector from SMEC. Connect ohmmeter to 14-pin connector cavity No. 9 and White wire of injector harness connector. If there is no continuity, repair White wire to 14-pin connector cavity No. 9 for an open circuit to injector connector. If there is continuity, replace SMEC for a defective power board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in 14-pin connector cavity No. 9 is not damaged causing a poor connection. (Scheme 34): Checking Injector Control Circuits "C"
5. Reconnect fuel injector connector. Remove screw and lift cap from injector. Connect analog voltmeter between terminals of injector cap. Select lowest scale available on voltmeter (4-volt scale is recommended). Put system in ATM Test "02". (Scheme 35): Checking Injector Control Circuits "D"
6. If voltmeter reading is pulsating between zero and one volt, replace fuel injector. Before replacing injector, ensure terminals in injector cap are not damaged causing a poor connection. If voltmeter is showing a negative reading, reverse leads at injector connector and repeat test.
7. If voltmeter reading is not pulsating, replace fuel injector cap and wiring harness assembly. Before replacing injector cap and wiring harness assembly, ensure terminals in injector cap are not damaged causing a poor connection.

Scheme 36

1. Connect DRB II to engine harness connector. Remove air cleaner. Put system in Diagnostic Test Mode. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect one end of jumper wire to 60-pin connector cavity No. 33. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. Press and hold ATM key on DRB II. Momentarily connect and disconnect other end of jumper wire to positive battery post. (Scheme 36): Fuel Control Circuit "A"
2. If fuel sprays from injector, replace SMEC for a defective logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in connector cavity No. 33 is not damaged causing a poor connection. If there is no fuel spraying from injector, turn ignition off.
3. Disconnect the 14-pin connector from SMEC. Connect ohmmeter to 60-pin connector cavity No. 33 and 14-pin connector cavity No. 8. If there is continuity, replace SMEC for a defective power board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in 14-pin connector cavity No. 8 is not damaged causing a poor connection. If there is no continuity, repair Voilet/Yellow wire to 14-pin connector cavity No. 8 for an open circuit to 60-pin connector.

Fuel Control Circuit "B". Scheme 37

Scheme 38

1. Connect DRB II to engine harness connector. Put system in Diagnostic Test Mode. Remove air cleaner. Disconnect injector harness connector. Press and hold ATM key on DRB II. If there is fuel spraying from injector, remove injector. Inspect injector lower "O" ring for damage or misalignment. If "O" ring is okay, replace injector. (Scheme 38): Fuel System Check
2. If there is no fuel spraying from injector, turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Reconnect injector connector. Press and hold ATM key on DRB II. If there is fuel spraying from injector, replace SMEC for a defective power board. Before replacing SMEC, check White wire to injector for a short to ground. If there is no fuel spraying from injector, replace SMEC for a defective logic board.

NS14 - CHECKING SYSTEM FOR FAULT CODES

1. Connect DRB II to engine harness connector. Erase fault codes. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position for 5 seconds. Crank engine for 7 seconds and return ignition switch to "RUN" position for 5 seconds. Put system in Diagnostic Test Mode. Record all codes.
2. If no code 88 or 00 (system power circuits) is displayed, go to «NS15»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes) . If codes 88-11-12-55 (distributor pick-up circuit) is displayed, go to «NS16»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes) . If codes 88-42-55 (auto shutdown relay pull-in coil circuit) is displayed, go to «NS17»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes) .
3. If codes 88-12-14-22-24-55 or 88-12-14-22-23-24-55 are displayed, repair Black/Light Blue wire in SMEC 60-pin connector cavity No. 4 for an open circuit. If code 88-12-44-55 is displayed, go to «NS18»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes__ns18-code-44-checking) . If codes 88-12-55 (no fault codes) are displayed, go to «NS19»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes) .

Scheme 39

Scheme 40

Scheme 41

Scheme 42

Scheme 43

Scheme 44

1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) connector. Turn ignition on. Connect voltmeter to Voilet/White wire at TPS connector and ground. If there is at least 4.5 volts, go to next step. If there is no voltage, go to step 4). (Scheme 39): Checking Supply & Ground Circuits "A"
2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect one ohmmeter lead to system ground eyelet. Connect other ohmmeter lead to 60-pin connector cavity No. 15 and then cavity No. 16. If ohmmeter is showing continuity with less than.5 ohm resistance in both wires, replace SMEC for a defective logic board. (Scheme 40): Checking Supply & Ground Circuits "B"
3. If there is no continuity, repair Light Blue/Red wire for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. Replace SMEC. If ohmmeter is showing more than.5 ohm resistance in either wire, repair Light Blue/Red wire for high resistance to ground eyelet.
4. If voltmeter reading in step 1) was zero volts, disconnect MAP sensor connector. Connect positive voltmeter lead to Voilet/White wire at TPS sensor connector and negative lead to ground. If voltmeter reading is at least 4.5 volts, replace MAP sensor. If voltmeter reading is zero volts, turn ignition off. (Scheme 41): Checking Supply & Ground Circuits "C"
5. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect negative voltmeter lead to ground. Turn ignition on. Touch positive voltmeter lead to cavity No. 52 (Orange wire) of 60-pin connector. If voltmeter reading is at least 8 volts, replace SMEC for a defective logic board. Before replacing SMEC, check for a damaged terminal in 60-pin connector cavity No. 52 causing a poor connection. (Scheme 42): Checking Supply & Ground Circuits "D"
6. If voltmeter reading is zero volts, disconnect distributor pick-up harness connector. Connect negative voltmeter lead to ground. Touch positive voltmeter lead to Orange wire in 60-pin connector cavity No. 52. If voltmeter reading is at least 8 volts, replace distributor pick-up.
7. If voltmeter reading is zero volts, turn ignition off. With 60-pin and distributor pick-up connectors disconnected, connect ohmmeter to 60-pin connector cavity No. 52 and Orange wire in cavity No. 1 of distributor harness connector. If there is no continuity, repair Orange wire to 60-pin connector cavity No. 52 for an open circuit to distributor harness connector. (Scheme 43): Checking Supply & Ground Circuits "E"
8. If there is continuity, disconnect 14-pin connector from SMEC. Connect negative voltmeter lead to ground. Turn ignition on. Touch positive voltmeter lead to Dark Blue wire in 14-pin connector cavity No. 4. If voltmeter reading is not battery voltage, repair Dark Blue wire to 14-pin connector cavity No. 4 for an open circuit to wiring harness splice.
9. If voltmeter reading is within one volt of battery voltage, turn ignition off. Connect one ohmmeter lead to system ground eyelet. Connect other lead to 14-pin connector cavity No. 6 and then to cavity No. 7. If ohmmeter is showing continuity at both cavities with less than.5 ohm resistance, replace SMEC for defective power board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminals in connector cavities No. 6 and No. 7 are not damaged causing a poor connection. (Scheme 44): Checking Supply & Ground Circuits "F"
10. If ohmmeter is not showing continuity at both cavities, repair Black wires in 14-pin connector cavities No. 6 and No. 7 for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. Replace SMEC. If ohmmeter is showing continuity with greater than.5 ohm resistance, repair ground circuit for high resistance to system ground eyelet.

Scheme 45

Scheme 46

Scheme 47

Scheme 48

1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect distributor pick-up harness connector. Remove coil wire from distributor cap and position it 1/4" from a good engine ground. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position.
2. Connect a jumper wire between distributor pick-up harness connector cavities No. 2 (Black/Light Blue wire) and No. 3 (Gray/Black wire). Make and break this connection several times while observing coil wire. If there is spark from coil wire, go to next step. If there is no spark, go to step 5). (Scheme 45): Checking Distributor Pick-Up Circuit "A"
3. With distributor pick-up coil connector disconnected and ignition on, connect voltmeter to distributor pick-up harness connector cavity No. 1 and ground. If voltmeter reading is at least 7 volts, replace distributor pick-up. (Scheme 46): Checking Distributor Pick-Up Circuit "B"
4. Before replacing pick-up, ensure distributor harness connector terminals are not spread apart causing a poor connection. Also ensure distributor rotor turns while cranking engine. If voltmeter reading is zero volts, repair Orange wire to connector cavity No. 1 for an open circuit to wiring harness splice.
5. With ignition on, connect positive voltmeter lead to distributor pick-up harness connector cavity No. 3. Connect negative voltmeter lead to distributor pick-up harness connector cavity No. 2. If voltmeter reading is at least 4 volts, replace SMEC. (Scheme 47): Checking Distributor Pick-Up Circuit "C"
6. If voltmeter reading is zero volts, connect positive voltmeter lead to distributor pick-up harness connector cavity No. 3. Connect negative voltmeter lead to a good engine ground. If voltmeter reading is at least 4 volts, repair Black/Light Blue wire in distributor connector cavity No. 2 for an open circuit to wiring harness splice.
7. If voltmeter reading is zero volts, turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect ohmmeter to distributor connector cavity No. 3 and 60-pin connector cavity No. 47. If there is no continuity, repair Gray/Black wire to 60-pin connector cavity No. 47 for an open circuit to distributor pick-up harness connector. (Scheme 48): Checking Distributor Pick-Up Circuit "D"
8. If there is continuity, replace SMEC for a defective logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in connector cavity No. 47 is not damaged causing a poor connection.

Scheme 49

Scheme 50

1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect Gray distributor sync pick up connector. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. Connect negative lead of digital voltmeter to cavity No. 3 of sync pick-up harness connector. Connect positive lead of digital voltmeter to cavity No. 1 and then cavity No. 2 of harness connector. (Scheme 49): Checking Distributor Sync Pick-Up (Turbo) "A"
2. If voltmeter reading is at least 7 volts at both terminals. Replace distributor sync pick-up. Before replacing pick-up, ensure terminals in harness connector are not damaged causing a poor connection. If voltmeter reading is zero volts at connector cavity No. 1, repair Orange wire for an open circuit to wiring harness splice.
3. If voltmeter reading is zero volts at cavities No. 1 and No. 2, repair Black/Light Blue wire in cavity No. 3 for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. If voltmeter reading is zero volts at connector cavity No. 2, turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect ohmmeter to Tan/Yellow wire in 60-pin connector cavity No. 26 and to Tan/Yellow wire in sync pick-up connector cavity No. 3. (Scheme 50): Checking Distributor Sync Pick-Up (Turbo) "B"
4. If there is continuity, replace SMEC for a defective logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in connector cavity No. 26 is not damaged causing a poor connection. If there is no continuity, repair Tan/Yellow wire to 60-pin connector cavity No. 26 for an open circuit to distributor sync pick-up.

Scheme 51

Scheme 52

1. Connect DRB II to engine harness connector. Turn ignition on. Connect voltmeter to Dark Blue/Yellow wire in auto shutdown relay 4-pin connector and ground. If voltmeter reading is within one volt of battery voltage, go to next step. If voltmeter reading is 0-1 volt steady, go to step 3). (Scheme 51): Checking Auto Shutdown Relay "A"
2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect voltmeter to Dark Blue/Yellow wire in 60-pin connector cavity No. 58 and ground. Turn ignition on. If there is battery voltage, replace SMEC for a defective logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in 60-pin connector cavity No. 58 is not damaged causing a poor connection. If voltmeter reading is zero volts, repair Dark Blue/ Yellow wire to 60-pin connector cavity No. 58 for an open circuit to auto shutdown relay. (Scheme 52): Checking Auto Shutdown Relay "B"
3. Turn ignition off. Disconnect the 4-pin connector from the auto shutdown relay. Connect voltmeter to Dark Blue/White wire of the auto shutdown relay 4-pin connector and ground. Turn ignition on. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace the auto shutdown relay. If voltmeter reading is zero volts, repair Dark Blue/White wire of the auto shutdown relay 4-pin connector for an open circuit to wiring harness splice.

Checking Auto Shutdown Relay "C". Scheme 53

NS18 - CODE 44 - CHECKING FUSED J2 CIRCUIT

Turn ignition off. Disconnect 14-pin connector from SMEC. Connect ohmmeter to Dark Blue/White wire in auto shutdown relay 4-pin connector and 14-pin cavity No. 3. If no continuity, repair Dark Blue/White wire to 14-pin connector cavity No. 3 for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. If continuity exists, replace SMEC for a defective power board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in 14-pin connector cavity No. 3 is not damaged causing a poor connection.

Checking Fused J2 Circuit. Scheme 54

Scheme 55

1. Disconnect auto shutdown relay 4-pin connector. Turn ignition on. Connect voltmeter to Red wire in auto shutdown relay 4-pin connector and ground. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Red wire in auto shutdown relay 4-pin connector for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, proceed to step 2). (Scheme 55): Checking Auto Shutdown Relay "A"
2. Turn ignition off. Connect one end of jumper wire to auto shutdown relay 4-pin connector Dark Green/Black wire. Touch other end of jumper wire to auto shutdown relay 4-pin connector Red wire. If fuel pump turns on, replace auto shutdown relay. If fuel pump does not turn on, repair Dark Green/Black wire in auto shutdown relay 4-pin connector for an open circuit to wiring harness splice.

Checking Auto Shutdown Relay "B". Scheme 56

DRIVEABILITY TEST INFORMATION

Because of the limited space available for titles in this product, DRIVEABILITY test title prefixes have been shortened to DR. This allows for more information to be displayed in the menu.

DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) IDENTIFICATION

DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) IDENTIFICATION

Scheme 57

Scheme 58

Scheme 59

Scheme 60

Scheme 61

Scheme 62

1. Connect DRB II. Put system in Diagnostic Test Mode. Record all codes. If "88-12-55" (no fault codes) is displayed, go to DR2. For following fault codes, proceed to specified tests: Code 15 - Speed sensor, go to «DR3»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes). Code 17 - Coolant sensor, go to «DR5»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes). Code 21 - Oxygen sensor, go to «DR4»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes__dr4-code-21-oxygen-sensor). Code 33 - A/C cut-out relay, go to «DR11»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes). Code 51 - Oxygen feedback system locked lean, go to «DR18»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes). Code 52 - Oxygen feedback system locked rich, go to «DR18»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes).
2. Erase fault codes. Without depressing accelerator, start engine. Raise engine speed to 2000 RPM for 10 seconds and then return to idle. Cycle transmission gear selector. Turn A/C on and off (if equipped).
3. Turn ignition off. Put system into Diagnostic Test Mode. Record all codes. If the same code appears before and after the engine is started, the problem still exists. Proceed as follows: NOTE: If code does not reappear, problem is not recorded, go to step 16).
4. With DRB II connected, enter Actuator Test Mode (ATM). Perform the following tests: Actuator Test "04" - The radiator fan should be cycling ON/OFF every 2 seconds. If fan cycles, press and hold ATM key until code "07" (equipped with A/C) or code "05" (without A/C) appears. If fan is not on, check fan relay. If relay clicks, repair wiring to fan. If relay does not click, replace relay. Actuator Test "05" - The A/C cut-out relay should click, every 2 seconds. If relay clicks, hold ATM key until code "07" appears. Replace relay if it does not click. During this test the A/C compressor clutch will also cycle and the cooling fans will run continuously. Actuator Test "07" - Listen for clicking from canister purge solenoid. On vehicles equipped with manual transmission, hold ATM key until code "10" appears. On vehicles equipped with automatic transmission, go to step 6). Replace solenoid if it does not click. Actuator Test "10" - This test is for vehicles equipped with manual transmissions. Shift indicator light should cycle ON/OFF. If light does not cycle, go to next step. If light cycles, go to step 6).
5. With ignition off, disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect a jumper wire to Orange/Black wire in connector cavity No. 55. Ensure pin contact or wiring is not damaged. Turn ignition on. Touch jumper wire to the battery negative post. If shift indicator light is on, replace SMEC. If shift indicator light does not light, check for an open circuit, check bulb, check 12-volt supply to bulb with ignition on. (Scheme 57): Jumper Wire Connection to 60-Pin Connector
6. With DRB II connected, enter Switch Test Mode. Check switch inputs as follows: Depress brake pedal. Move gear selector from Park, to Reverse, to Neutral, to Drive. With A/C on, turn blower on and press A/C button. DRB II display should change as each switch is activated. Disregard what is displayed, ensure only that a change in display occurs. If switch inputs are okay, go to step 11). If one or all of the switches do not pass, proceed to the following tests: Brake switch w/o speed control, go to next step. Brake switch with speed control, go to step 8). Park/Neutral switch, go to step 9). A/C button, go to step 10).
7. With ignition off, disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect a voltmeter to White/Pink wire in connector cavity No. 29. On Omni and Horizon models connect voltmeter to White/Tan wire in connector cavity No. 29. Ensure connecting pins and harness are not damaged. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. Depress brake pedal. If voltmeter shows within one volt of battery voltage, replace SMEC, for a defective logic board. If voltmeter reads zero volts, check brake switch, switch circuits and voltage supply. (Scheme 58): Voltmeter Connection to 60-Pin Connector
8. With ignition off, disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect ohmmeter between White/Pink wire in connector cavity No. 29 and ground. On Omni and Horizon models connect ohmmeter to White/Tan wire in connector cavity No. 29 and ground. Depress and release brake pedal. If ohmmeter shows an open when pedal is depressed and has continuity when pedal is released, replace SMEC, for a defective logic board. If ohmmeter reads as described above, check brake switch, switch circuits and stoplight bulbs.
9. With ignition off, disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect ohmmeter between Brown/Yellow wire in connector cavity No. 30 and ground. Disconnect the battery quick disconnect. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. Shift gear selector to, Park, Reverse, Neutral, and Drive positions and check ohmmeter readings in each position. If ohmmeter shows continuity in each position, check for defective Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) or short to ground in Brown/Yellow wire in connector cavity No. 30. If ohmmeter shows an open circuit in all positions, repair Brown/Yellow wire in connector cavity No. 30 or replace NSS. If the ohmmeter reads as follows, replace SMEC for a defective logic board: SMEC TESTING Trans. Position Ohmmeter Park Continuity Reverse Open Neutral Continuity Drive Open
10. With ignition off, disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect ohmmeter between Brown wire in connector cavity No. 45 and ground. Turn blower switch on, press A/C button and then press "OFF" button. NOTE: A/C system must have adequate freon charge to complete this test. If ohmmeter shows continuity when A/C button is pressed, and open when "OFF" button is pressed, replace SMEC for a defective logic board. If ohmmeter is not as described, repair Brown wire in connector cavity No. 45 for an open or short to wiring harness splice.
11. Connect DRB II, ensure "READ" is displayed. Connect a tachometer to engine. Start engine and disconnect coolant sensor. Press Read/Hold key and display "HOLD". Record engine RPM variations. Press key and display "READ". If engine speed increases to about 1500 RPM on "HOLD" and returns to idle on "READ", go to step 16). If engine speed does not increase and decrease as described, go to next step.
12. With ignition off and DRB II connected, disconnect ISC motor connector. Connect voltmeter between Gray/Red wire (terminal No. 1) and Voilet/Black wire (terminal No. 4) at ISC harness connector. Enter Actuator Test Mode "03". If voltmeter is pulsating between "0" and "12" volts every 2 seconds, go to next step. If voltmeter does not pulsate, go to step 14). (Scheme 59): Voltmeter Connector to ISC Connector
13. With DRB II connected and ISC motor disconnected. Connect voltmeter between Brown/White wire and Yellow/Black wire at terminals No. 2 and 3 of ISC. Enter ATM "03". If voltmeter is pulsating between "0" and "12" volts every 2 seconds, replace ISC motor. If voltmeter does not pulsate, go to step 15).
14. With ignition off, disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Ensure ISC motor is connected. Connect ohmmeter between Gray/Red wire in connector cavity No. 19 and Voilet/Black wire in connector cavity No. 20. If ohmmeter shows continuity, replace SMEC for a defective logic board. If circuit is open, repair open in ISC circuit wiring. (Scheme 60): Ohmmeter Connection to 60-Pin Connector [A]
15. With ignition off, disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Ensure ISC motor is connected. Connect ohmmeter between Brown/White wire in connector cavity No. 17 and Yellow/Black wire in connector cavity No. 18. If ohmmeter shows continuity, replace SMEC for a defective logic board. If circuit is open, repair open in ISC circuit wiring. (Scheme 61): Ohmmeter Connection to 60-Pin Connector [B]
16. With ignition off, disconnect both SMEC connectors. Connect one lead of Digital Volt/Ohm Meter (DVOM) to system ground eyelet on cylinder head. Connect other lead to the following circuits, and test resistance: 14-Pin Connector: Black/White wire in connector cavity No. 2. Black wire in connector cavities No. 6 and 7. 60-Pin Connector: Black/White wire in connector cavity No. 5. Light Blue/Red wire in connector cavities No. 15 and 16. (Scheme 62): Testing Resistance at 14 & 60-Pin Connectors
17. If ohmmeter shows less than.5 ohm resistance at all cavities, go to DR15 (cold engine driveability problems) or DR17 (warm engine driveability problems). If ohmmeter reading indicates an open in one or more of the connector cavities, check for an open ground circuit and/or replace SMEC. If meter indicates a resistance greater than.5 ohms, repair ground connection.
18. The majority of intermittent failures are caused by wiring and connections. One way to find them is to duplicate the problem. Since the SMEC can remember where they are, the ATM and Sensor Tests can be used in an attempt to locate them. Once in the correct test mode, wiggle all connectors and wires in the circuit. The DRB II display will change, or ATM test will be interrupted when the bad connection or wire is located. When checking MAP sensor circuit (code "14"), apply 10 inches of vacuum to MAP sensor before testing. If the following codes do not reappear, go to the indicated test: ATM Tests Code 25 - Test "03" Code 26 - Test "02" Code 27 - Test "02" Code 31 - Test "07" Code 32 - Test "11" Code 35 - Test "04" Code 36 - Test "11" Code 42 - Test "06" Code 43 - Test "01" Sensor Tests Code 14 - Test "08" Code 22 - Test "04" Code 23 - Test "03" Code 24 - Test "05"

Scheme 63

1. Turn ignition off. Tee vacuum gauge into vacuum line at MAP sensor. Start engine and observe vacuum gauge with engine at idle. Observe gauge while snapping throttle open and closed. If gauge reads manifold vacuum at idle and drops to zero when throttle is snapped open, go to next step. If vacuum reads zero at idle, repair leak in vacuum line to throttle body. If vacuum slowly drops to zero when throttle is snapped open, repair restriction in vacuum supply line to MAP sensor. (Scheme 63): MAP Sensor Vacuum Gauge Connection
2. Connect DRB II and disconnect MAP sensor connector. Put system into Sensor Test Mode "08". If display reads zero volts, replace SMEC. Ensure wire to connector cavity No. 11 (Non-Turbo), of 60-pin connector, is not shorted to ground. If reading is at least 4 volts, SMEC is okay, go to next step.
3. Connect DRB II and put system in Sensor Test Mode "08". Disconnect MAP sensor. Connect jumper wire to Dark Green/Red wire and Black/Light Blue wire of the MAP sensor harness connector. If DRB II displays "0" volts, go to step 5). If reading is not "0" volts, go to next step.
4. Connect DRB II and put system in Sensor Test Mode "08". Disconnect MAP sensor. Connect a jumper between battery negative terminal and Dark Green/Red wire at MAP sensor harness connector. If display is "0" volts, repair Black/Light Blue wire of the MAP sensor connector to the wiring harness splice.
5. Disconnect MAP sensor connector and turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. Connect a DVOM between Voilet/White wire of MAP sensor harness and ground. If it reads zero volt, repair open in Voilet/White wire. If reading is at least 4 volts, replace MAP sensor.

MAP Sensor DVOM Connection. Scheme 64

Scheme 65

Scheme 66

1. Connect DRB II. Start engine. Disconnect speed sensor connector. Put system into Engine Running Test "71". Connect jumper wire between the Black and White/Orange terminals of speed sensor. Make and break this connection. If display on DRB II changes, replace speed sensor. If display does not change, go to next step.
2. Turn engine off and disconnect speed sensor. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect an ohmmeter between White/Orange wire at cavity No. 48 of 60-pin connector and White/Orange wire at speed sensor harness connector. If ohmmeter reads continuity, go to next step. If ohmmeter is not reading continuity, repair White/Orange wire in cavity No. 48 of 60-pin connector for an open circuit to speed sensor connector. (Scheme 65): Jumpering Speed Sensor (Scheme 66): Connection Between Speed Sensor & 60-Pin Connection.
3. With engine off, disconnect speed sensor and 60-pin SMEC connector. Connect an ohmmeter between Black/Light Blue wire at cavity No. 4 of 60-pin connector and Black wire terminal of speed sensor harness connector. If ohmmeter reads continuity, replace SMEC. Before replacing SMEC, ensure cavity No. 48 is not damaged causing a poor connection. If ohmmeter is not reading continuity, repair Black/Light Blue or Black wire of speed sensor harness connector for an open circuit to wiring harness splice.

DR4, CODE 21 - OXYGEN SENSOR (O2) CIRCUIT

1. Turn ignition off, connect DRB II and disconnect (O2) sensor connector. Turn ignition on. Put system in Sensor Test "02". If display on tester is at least .4 volt, go to next step. If display on tester reads zero volts, replace SMEC. Before replacing SMEC, ensure Black/Dark Green wire at cavity No. 23 of SMEC 60-pin connector is not shorted to ground.
2. With system in Sensor Test "02" and O2 sensor disconnected, connect one end of a jumper wire to Black/Dark Green wire of oxygen sensor harness connector. Connect other end to battery positive post. If display on tester reads at least 5 volts, replace O2 sensor. If display on tester reads .4 volt, repair Black/Dark Green wire of O2 sensor connector for an open circuit to SMEC.

Jumpering O2 Sensor Connector. Scheme 67

Scheme 68

Scheme 69

1. With DRB II connected to diagnostic connector, turn ignition off. Disconnect CTS sensor connector. Put system in Sensor Test "04". If display on tester reads "00°", go to next step. If display on tester reads "260°", replace SMEC for a defective logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure Tan/White wire at cavity No. 3 of 60-pin connector is not shorted to ground. (Scheme 68): Disconnecting Coolant Temperature Sensor
2. Connect a jumper wire between Tan/White and Black/Light Blue wire terminals of CTS. If display on tester reads "260°", replace CTS. If display on tester reads "00°", go to next step. (Scheme 69): Jumpering CTS Tan/White & Black/Light Blue Wires
3. With DRB II connected and system in Sensor Test "04", disconnect CTS. Connect one end of a jumper wire to ground. Connect other end of wire to Tan/White wire terminal of CTS harness connector. If display on tester reads "260°", repair Black/Light Blue wire of CTS harness connector for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. If display on tester reads "00°", repair Tan/White wire of CTS harness connector for an open circuit to SMEC.

Jumpering CTS to ground. Scheme 70

Scheme 71

Scheme 72

1. With DRB II connected to diagnostic connector, disconnect throttle body temperature sensor connector. Put system in Sensor Test "03". If display on tester reads 5 volts, go to next step. If display on tester reads zero volts, or zero volts and then increases, replace SMEC. Before replacing SMEC, ensure cavity No. 21 of 60-pin connector is not shorted to ground. (Scheme 71): Jumpering Throttle Body Temperature Sensor
2. With DRB II connected and system in Sensor Test "03", connect a jumper wire between Black/Red and Black/Light Blue wire terminals of throttle body/charge temperature sensor harness connector. If display on tester reads zero volts, replace throttle body temperature sensor. If display on tester reads 5 volts, go to next step. (Scheme 72): Testing Throttle Body Temperature Sensor
3. Connect one end of a jumper wire to ground. Connect other end of wire to Black/Red wire terminal of throttle body/charge temperature sensor connector. If display reads zero volts, repair Black/Light Blue wire of throttle body/charge temperature sensor connector for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. If display on tester reads 5 volts, repair wire of throttle body temperature sensor connector for an open circuit to SMEC.

Scheme 73

Scheme 74

1. With tester connected to diagnostic connector and TPS sensor disconnected, put the system in Sensor Test "05". If display on tester reads between 4-5 volts, go to next step. If display on tester reads zero volts, replace SMEC for a defective logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure Orange/Dark Blue wire at connector cavity No. 22 of 60-pin connector is not shorted to ground.
2. Connect a jumper wire between Orange/Dark Blue and Black/Light Blue wire terminals of TPS connector. If display on tester reads zero volts, go to step 4). If display on tester reads 5 volts, go to next step. (Scheme 73): Jumpering Throttle Position Sensor Voilet/White
3. Connect one end of a jumper wire to ground. Connect other end of wire to Orange/Dark Blue wire terminal of TPS harness connector. If display on tester reads zero volts, repair Black/Light Blue wire of TPS connector for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. If display on tester reads 5 volts, repair Orange/Dark Blue wire of TPS connector for an open circuit to SMEC. (Scheme 74): Jumpering TPS to Ground
4. With TPS disconnected, turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. Connect a digital voltmeter between Voilet/White wire of TPS harness connector and ground. If voltmeter reads at least 4 volts, replace TPS. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Voilet/White wire for an open circuit to wiring harness splice.

Testing TPS Voltage. Scheme 75

Scheme 76

1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect an ohmmeter between Brown/White wire in connector cavity No. 17 and Yellow/Black wire in cavity No. 18. If ohmmeter reads some resistance (amount of resistance is not important), go to next step. If ohmmeter reading indicates circuit is open, go to step 3). (Scheme 76): Testing Cavity 17 to 18 Resistance
2. Connect an ohmmeter between Gray/Red wire in connector cavity No. 19 and Voilet/Black wire in connector cavity No. 20 of 60-pin connector. If ohmmeter reads some resistance (amount of resistance is not important), replace SMEC for a defective logic board. If ohmmeter reads no continuity, go to next step.
3. Connect ohmmeter as in steps 1) or 2). Disconnect Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor connector. If ohmmeter reading indicates an open circuit, replace ISC motor. If ohmmeter shows continuity, repair wire to ISC motor for a short circuit to each other.

Scheme 77

Scheme 78

1. Connect a voltmeter between Pink/Black wire of canister purge solenoid connector and ground. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, go to next step. If voltmeter reads zero volts, go to step 3). (Scheme 77): Testing Connector Purge Solenoid Connector Voltage
2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect a voltmeter between Pink/Black wire in connector cavity No. 54 and ground. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace SMEC. Before replacing SMEC, ensure connector cavity No. 54 is not damaged causing a poor connection. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Pink/Black wire in connector cavity No. 54 for an open circuit to canister purge solenoid. (Scheme 78): Testing Cavity 54 Voltage
3. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. Connect a voltmeter between Dark Blue wire of canister purge solenoid and ground. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, go to next step. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Dark Blue wire for an open circuit to wiring harness splice.
4. Turn ignition off. Connect a voltmeter between Pink/Black wire at canister purge solenoid connector and ground. Disconnect 60 pin connector from SMEC. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace SMEC. Before replacing SMEC, ensure Pink/Black wire is not shorted to ground. If voltmeter reads zero volts, replace canister purge solenoid.

Scheme 79

Scheme 80

Scheme 81

Scheme 82

1. With DRB II connected to diagnostic connector. Connect analog voltmeter positive lead to Gray/Yellow wire of 4-pin EGR/purge solenoid connector. Connect voltmeter negative lead to ground. Put system in ATM Test "11". If voltmeter reads battery voltage and is not pulsating and solenoid does not click, go to next step. If voltmeter reads zero volts and solenoid does not click, go to step 3). If voltmeter pulsates between one volt and battery voltage and solenoid does not click, replace EGR solenoid. If voltmeter reading pulsates between one volt and battery voltage and solenoid clicks, go to step 5). (Scheme 79): Testing EGR/Purge Solenoid Voltage
2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect voltmeter between Gray/Yellow wire in connector cavity No. 40 and ground. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace SMEC. Before replacing SMEC, ensure connector pin in cavity No. 40 of 60-pin connector is not damaged causing a poor connection. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Gray/Yellow wire of cavity No. 40 for an open circuit to solenoid connector. (Scheme 80): Testing Cavity 40 Voltage
3. Turn ignition off. Connect a voltmeter between Dark Blue wire of EGR/purge solenoid 4-pin connector and ground. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Dark Blue wire for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, go to next step.
4. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect a voltmeter between Gray/Yellow wire at connector cavity No. 40 and ground. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace SMEC for a defective logic board. If voltmeter reads zero volts, replace EGR solenoid.
5. Disconnect vacuum line at EGR backpressure valve that comes from throttle body or solenoid. Connect a vacuum gauge to line from throttle body or solenoid. Start engine. Disconnect Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor. When engine reaches normal operating temperature, raise engine speed to 2500 RPM. If vacuum gauge reads at least 5 in. Hg vacuum, note reading and go to next step. If vacuum gauge reads less than 5 in. Hg vacuum or zero, repair vacuum supply from throttle body or solenoid. If vacuum lines are okay, replace EGR solenoid. (Scheme 81): Connecting, Vacuum Gauge To EGR Valve
6. With engine running, disconnect vacuum gauge and connect vacuum hose to backpressure valve. Disconnect vacuum line from EGR valve and connect a vacuum gauge to line. Disconnect ISC motor. Raise engine speed to 2500 RPM. If vacuum gauge reads the same or near the same as in step 5), go to next step. If vacuum gauge is not reading the same or near the same as in step 5), replace EGR/backpressure valve assembly. (Scheme 82): Connecting Vacuum Pump to EGR Valve
7. Connect a vacuum pump to EGR valve. With ISC motor disconnected and engine idling, slowly apply vacuum. If engine speed begins to drop when vacuum reaches 2.5-3.5 in. Hg vacuum, go to next step. If engine speed does not drop, replace EGR/backpressure valve assembly.
8. Reconnect ISC motor. Apply 10 in. Hg vacuum to EGR valve. If vacuum holds without bleeding for at least 10 seconds, go to «DR17»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes). If vacuum bleeds down before 10 seconds, replace EGR/backpressure valve assembly.

Scheme 83

Scheme 84

1. For the A/C cut-out relay to operate properly, the radiator fan relay must be operating properly. Disregard fault code 33 if they are not working properly. Connect a voltmeter to Dark Blue/Orange wire of A/C cut-out relay single connector and ground. Turn ignition on. Turn blower motor and A/C button on. Ensure radiator fan is running. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, go to next step. If voltmeter reads 0-1 volt, go to step 3). (Scheme 83): Testing A/C Vut-Out Relay Voltage
2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect a voltmeter between Dark Blue/Orange wire in cavity No. 56 and ground. Connect a jumper wire between cavity No. 57 of 60-pin connector and ground. Turn ignition on. The radiator or condenser fan will run. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace SMEC for a bad logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure cavity No. 56 of 60-pin connector is not damaged causing a poor connection. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Dark Blue/Orange wire of cavity No. 56 for an open circuit to A/C cut-out relay. NOTE: A/C cut-out relay wire has a diode in it. Ensure diode has not failed causing an open circuit. (Scheme 84): Testing Cavity 56 Voltage
3. Turn ignition off. With voltmeter connected as in step 1), disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect a jumper wire between cavity No. 57 of 60-pin connector and ground. Turn ignition on. The radiator or condenser fan will run. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace SMEC. If voltmeter reads zero volts, go to next step.
4. With jumper wire connected as in previous step, connect a voltmeter between Light Green wire of A/C cut-out relay 3-pin connector and ground. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace A/C cut-out relay. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Light Green wire to radiator fan relay for an open circuit.

Testing A/C Cut-Out Relay Voltage. Scheme 85

Scheme 86

Scheme 87

1. Connect a voltmeter to Dark Blue/Pink wire of radiator fan relay 3-pin connector and ground. Turn ignition on. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, go to next step. If voltmeter reads 0-1 volt, go to step 3). (Scheme 86): Testing Radiator Fan Relay Voltage
2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect a voltmeter between Dark Blue/Pink wire in cavity No. 57 and ground. Turn ignition on. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace SMEC for a bad logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure cavity No. 57 of 60-pin connector is not damaged causing a poor connection. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Dark Blue/Pink wire of cavity No. 57 for an open circuit to radiator fan relay. (Scheme 87): Testing Cavity 57 Voltage
3. With voltmeter connected as in step 1), turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Turn ignition on. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace SMEC for a bad logic board. If voltmeter reads zero volts, go to next step.
4. Connect a voltmeter to the Dark Blue wire of the radiator fan relay single connector and ground. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace radiator fan relay. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Dark Blue wire of radiator fan relay for an open circuit to wiring harness splice.

Scheme 88

1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect a voltmeter between Orange/Black wire in cavity No. 55 and ground. Turn ignition switch to "RUN". If voltmeter reads battery voltage, Logic board is defective, replace SMEC. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in cavity No. 55 is not damaged, causing a poor connection. If voltmeter reads zero volts, go to next step. (Scheme 88): Testing Cavity 55 Voltage
2. With voltmeter connected as in previous step, disconnect lock-up torque converter solenoid connector. Connect a jumper wire between the terminals of lock-up torque converter solenoid connector. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace lock-up torque converter solenoid. If voltmeter reads zero volts, go to next step.
3. Connect a voltmeter between Dark Blue wire of lock-up torque converter solenoid connector and ground. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, repair Orange/Black wire of lock-up solenoid connector for an open circuit. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Dark Blue wire of lock-up torque converter solenoid for an open circuit to wiring harness splice.

Testing Torque Converter Connector Voltage. Scheme 89

DR14, CODE 44 - FUSED "J2" CIRCUIT TO SMEC

Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect a voltmeter to Dark Blue/White wire in cavity No. 12 of the 60-pin connector and ground. Turn ignition on. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, logic board is defective, replace SMEC. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in cavity No. 12 of 60-pin connector is not damaged causing a poor connection. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Dark Blue/White wire of cavity No. 12 for an open circuit to wiring harness splice.

Testing Cavity 12 Voltage. Scheme 90

Scheme 91

1. Coolant Temperature Sensor - Connect DRB II Tester (C-4805) to diagnostic connector. With a COLD engine, put system in Engine Running Test "64". If display on tester is reading ambient temperature +/-10°F (12.2°C), go to next step. If display on tester is reading more than 10°F (12.2°C) greater than or less than ambient temperature, replace coolant temperature sensor.
2. Throttle Position Sensor - With a COLD engine, put system in Sensor Test "05". If display on tester reads.5-1.5 volts with throttle fully closed and at least 3.5 volts at WOT, and voltage changes steadily during throttle movement, TPS is okay. Go to next step. If voltage readings are not within specifications, replace TPS.
3. Start engine. Put system in Engine Running Test "65". Slowly increase engine speed to 2000 RPM. If voltage displayed on tester increases with engine speed, go to next step. If voltage does not increase as engine speed increases, replace TPS.
4. With engine running at idle, put system in Engine Running Test "69". If display on tester is between 0-.1 volt, go to next step. If display on tester is reading more than.1 volt, replace TPS.
5. Map Sensor - Turn engine off. Tee a vacuum gauge into vacuum line at MAP sensor. Start engine. Put system in Engine Running Test "68". If vacuum displayed on tester is within one in. Hg of vacuum shown on vacuum gauge, go to step 8). If vacuum displayed on tester is not within one in. Hg of vacuum shown on vacuum gauge, go to next step. (Scheme 91): Connecting Vacuum Gauge to MAP Sensor
6. With COLD engine, put system in Sensor Test "08". Disconnect vacuum hose from MAP sensor. Connect a vacuum pump to MAP sensor. Apply 5 in. Hg vacuum to sensor and record voltage displayed on tester. Slowly apply 20 in. Hg vacuum to sensor and record voltage displayed on tester. Subtract voltage readings recorded at 20 in. Hg vacuum from readings recorded from 5 in. Hg vacuum. Record result.
7. If tester is showing an uninterrupted change of voltage between 5 and 20 in. Hg vacuum and voltage difference is between 2.3-2.9 volts, repair vacuum line to MAP sensor for a restriction. If tester is showing an interrupted change of voltage between 5 and 20 in. Hg vacuum and voltage difference is not between 2.3-2.9 volts, replace MAP sensor.
8. Throttle Body Temperature Sensor - With tester connected to diagnostic connector on a COLD engine. Start engine. Put system in Engine Running Test "63". If display on tester reads between 3-5 volts, charge temperature sensor is okay. Go to DRNO. 16. If display on tester is not reading between 3-5 volts, replace charge temperature sensor.

DR16 - CHECK FOR FUEL FOULED SPARK PLUGS

1. Remove spark plugs. If spark plugs are dry, go to next step. It is normal for spark plugs to be Black after starting a cold engine. If spark plugs are wet with fuel, clean plugs and reinstall. DO NOT replace spark plugs. Check for fuel in crankcase. Change oil and filter if required.
2. With engine cold, disconnect air duct from air cleaner snorkel. Disconnect vacuum supply hose from the heated air intake temperature sensor. Connect an auxiliary vacuum supply to temperature sensor. Apply 15 in. Hg. vacuum. If vacuum builds up, closes heated air door and then bleeds down, proceed to the following driveability tests: Federal vehicles, see: «DR18»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes) California vehicle, see: «DR19»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes__dr19-secondary-ignition-system-check) .

Scheme 92

Scheme 93

1. Coolant Temperature Sensor - Connect DRB Tester (C-4805) to diagnostic connector. With a WARM engine, put system in Engine Running Test "64". If display on tester reads between 180-250°F (82-121°C), go to next step. If display on tester is not reading between 180-250°F (82-121°C), replace coolant temperature sensor.
2. Throttle Position Sensor - With a WARM engine, put system in Sensor Test "05". If display on tester reads.5-1.5 volts with throttle fully closed and at least 3.5 volts at WOT, and voltage changes steadily during throttle movement, TPS is okay. Go to next step. If voltage readings are not within specifications, replace TPS.
3. Start engine. Put system in Engine Running Test "65". Slowly increase engine speed to 2000 RPM. If voltage displayed on tester increases with engine speed, go to next step. If voltage does not increase as engine speed increases, replace TPS.
4. With engine running at idle, put system in Engine Running Test "69". If display on tester is between 0-.1 volt, go to next step. If display on tester is reading more than.1 volt, replace TPS.
5. Map Sensor - Turn engine off. Tee a vacuum gauge into vacuum line at MAP sensor. Start engine. Put system in Engine Running Test "68". If vacuum displayed on tester is within one in. Hg of vacuum shown on vacuum gauge, go to step 8). If vacuum displayed on tester is not within one in. Hg of vacuum shown on vacuum gauge, go to next step. (Scheme 92): Connecting Vacuum Gauge to MAP Sensor
6. With WARM engine, put system in Sensor Test "08". Disconnect vacuum hose from MAP sensor. Connect a vacuum pump to MAP sensor. Apply 5 in. Hg vacuum to sensor and record voltage displayed on tester. Slowly apply 20 in. Hg vacuum to sensor and record voltage displayed on tester. Subtract voltage readings recorded at 20 in. Hg vacuum from readings recorded from 5 in. Hg vacuum. Record result.
7. If tester is showing an uninterrupted change of voltage between 5 and 20 in. Hg vacuum and voltage difference is between 2.3-2.9 volts, repair vacuum line to MAP sensor for a restriction. If tester is showing an interrupted change of voltage between 5 and 20 in. Hg vacuum and voltage difference is not between 2.3-2.9 volts, replace MAP sensor.
8. Throttle Body Temperature Sensor - With tester connected to diagnostic connector on a WARM engine. Start engine. Put system in Engine Running Test "63". If display on tester reads between 1-4 volts, throttle body temperature sensor is okay, go to next step. If display on tester is not reading between 1-4 volts, replace throttle body temperature sensor.
9. Heated Air Intake Temperature Sensor - With engine warm, disconnect air duct from air cleaner snorkel. Disconnect vacuum supply hose from heated air intake temperature sensor. Connect vacuum pump to sensor nipple. Apply vacuum. If vacuum does not hold and heated air door is still open, go to the following driveability tests: Federal vehicles, see: «DR18»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes) California vehicle, see: «DR19»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes__dr19-secondary-ignition-system-check) If vacuum holds, replace heated air intake temperature sensor. If heated air intake door does not open, repair or replace door as necessary. (Scheme 93): Applying Vacuum to Heated Air Intake Sensor

Scheme 94

Scheme 95

Scheme 96

1. Disconnect vacuum line at EGR backpressure valve that comes from throttle body or solenoid. Connect a vacuum gauge to line from throttle body or solenoid. Start engine. Disconnect AIS motor. When engine reaches normal operating temperature, raise engine speed to 2500 RPM. If vacuum gauge reads at least 5 in. Hg vacuum, note reading and go to next step. If vacuum gauge reads less than 5 in. Hg vacuum or zero, repair vacuum supply from throttle body or solenoid. (Scheme 94): Disconnecting Vacuum Line at EGR backpressure Valve
2. With engine running, disconnect vacuum gauge and connect vacuum hose to backpressure valve. Disconnect vacuum line from EGR valve and connect a vacuum gauge to line. Raise engine speed to 2500 RPM. If vacuum gauge reads the same or near the same as in step 1), go to next step. If vacuum gauge is not reading the same or near the same as in step 1), replace EGR/backpressure valve assembly. (Scheme 95): Connecting Vacuum Gauge to EGR/backpressure Valve
3. Connect a vacuum pump to EGR valve. With AIS motor disconnected and engine idling, slowly apply vacuum. If engine speed begins to drop when vacuum reaches 2.5-3.5 in. Hg vacuum, go to next step. If engine speed does not drop, replace EGR/backpressure valve assembly. (Scheme 96): Connecting Vacuum to EGR/backpressure Valve
4. Apply 10 in. Hg vacuum to EGR valve. If vacuum holds without bleeding for at least 10 seconds, go to DR20. If vacuum bleeds down before 10 seconds, replace EGR/backpressure assembly.

DR19 - SECONDARY IGNITION SYSTEM CHECK

Connect engine analyzer to engine. Start engine and allow engine speed to stabilize for 2 minutes. Following equipment manufacturer's instructions, test secondary ignition system. Ensure ignition coil output is checked during this test. If secondary ignition system is okay, perform DR20 below. If secondary ignition system does not test okay, repair as required.

Scheme 97

1. Connect a tachometer and powered timing light to engine. Start and run engine until normal operating temperature is obtained. Disconnect engine coolant temperature sensor. The "CHECK ENGINE" light must come on. If basic timing is within 2 degrees of specification shown on emission label, go to next step. If basic timing is not within specification, adjust timing. (Scheme 97): Disconnect/Reconnect CTS
2. Remove air cleaner if necessary. Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature. Reconnect coolant temperature sensor. The "CHECK ENGINE" light will not go out until engine is restarted. Raise engine speed to 2000 RPM. If timing is between 25-35 degrees BTDC, go to DR21 below. If ignition timing is not within minimum specification, logic board is defective, replace SMEC.

DR21 - FUEL SUPPLY & RETURN SYSTEM CHECK

Scheme 98

Scheme 99

1. With the DRB II connected to the diagnostic connector, install Pressure Gauge (C-3292 ) with Adapter (C-4799 ) in the fuel supply hose at the fuel rail. Enter Diagnostic Test Mode. Press and hold "ATM" key on tester. If fuel pressure is 13.5-15.5 psi, go to «DR23»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes__dr23-throttle-body-minimum-airflow). If fuel pressure is less than 13.5 psi, record reading and go to next step. If fuel pressure is more than 15.5 psi, go to step 4). (Scheme 98): Checking Fuel Pressure
2. Turn ignition off. Release fuel system pressure. Remove pressure gauge and adapter. Reinstall hose to throttle body. Tee pressure gauge into fuel line before fuel filter. Turn ignition on. Press and hold "ATM" key on tester. If fuel pressure is 5 psi higher than in step 1), replace fuel filter. If fuel pressure is still less than 13.5 psi, go to next step. (Scheme 99): Installing Pressure Gauge
3. Turn ignition off. Release fuel system pressure. Remove pressure gauge. Tee pressure gauge into line after fuel filter. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. Press and hold "ATM" key on tester. VERY GENTLY squeeze fuel return line at fuel rail and IMMEDIATELY release. Fuel pressure must not exceed 25 psi or damage to pressure regulator will result. If fuel pressure increases to more than operating pressure, replace pressure regulator. If fuel pressure does not increase, replace in-tank fuel pump. Before replacing in-tank fuel pump, look for contamination in fuel tank that may be plugging pump filter. Also ensure electrical connections are not corroded.
4. Turn ignition off. With pressure gauge connected, remove fuel return hose (small one) from fuel rail. Connect a 3 foot length of fuel hose to fuel rail and place other end of hose into a receptacle (2 gallon minimum). Turn ignition on. Press and hold "ATM" key on tester. If fuel pressure is 47-49 psi, check fuel return lines for kinks or restrictions, including return line check valve inside fuel tank. If fuel pressure is more than 49 psi, replace the fuel pressure regulator.

DR22 - OXYGEN SENSOR OPERATION CHECK

1. Connect DRB II to diagnostic connector. Enter Engine Running Mode. Start engine and let idle for 2 minutes. Press and hold the "READ/HOLD" key until "HOLD" is displayed. This will increase engine RPM. If DRB II display is switching from "0" to "1", go to «DR23»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes__dr23-throttle-body-minimum-airflow) . If display reads only "0", check for engine vacuum leak, plugged fuel injector or a grounded oxygen sensor wire. If display shows only "1", go to next step.
2. With DRB II connected, turn engine off. Disconnect the distributor pick-up connector. Ensure system is still in Engine Running Mode. Crank engine for 10 seconds with throttle at wide open throttle position while observing display on DRB II. Turn engine again for 10 seconds at wide open throttle, while observing display on DRB II. If display changes from "1" to "0", Replace fuel injector. Ensure fuel injector "O" ring is not damaged before replacing fuel injector. If display does not change to "0", go to «DR24»(/dodge/daytona/i-1984-1993/remont/testing-diagnostics/#22l25l-tbi-tests-wcodes__dr24-non-engine-control-related-problems) .

DR23 - THROTTLE BODY MINIMUM AIRFLOW CHECK

With DRB II connected to diagnostic connector, connect a tachometer to engine. Disconnect PCV hose at PCV valve. Install Orifice (C-5004 ) into PCV vacuum supply hose. Start engine and let idle for one minute. When cooling fan is not running, enter Engine Running Test "70". If tachometer reads between 1100-1300 RPM (700-1300 RPM on vehicles with less than 1000 miles) on 2.2L engine, or 1050-1250 RPM (650-1250 on vehicles with less than 1000 miles) on 2.5L engine, go to DR24 below. If tachometer is not reading within specification, replace throttle body.

Installing Orifice to PCU Vacuum Supply. Scheme 100

DR24 - NON-ENGINE CONTROL RELATED PROBLEMS

At this point in driveability testing procedures, all engine control systems have been determined to be operating properly. Therefore, engine control system devices are not the cause of the driveability problem. Check the following items as possible causes of driveability problem

1. Engine vacuum MUST be at least 13 in. Hg in Neutral.
2. Valve timing must be set to specifications.
3. Engine compression must be within specifications.
4. Engine exhaust system must be free of restrictions.
5. Engine PCV system must flow freely.
6. Ensure engine drive sprockets (camshaft and crankshaft) are properly installed, meshed and timed.
7. Torque converter stall speed must be within specifications.
8. Power brake booster must not have any internal vacuum leaks.
9. Fuel must not be contaminated (high alcohol and water content).
10. Crossed fuel injector control wires (wrong wire connected to injector) may cause rough idle.

Note. Any one or more of these conditions can cause a driveability related problem. They must be considered as possible causes.

CHARGING SYSTEM TEST INFORMATION

Because of the limited space available for titles in this product, CHARGING SYSTEM test title prefixes have been shortened to CH. This allows more information to be displayed in the menu.

Scheme 101

1. Connect DRB II to diagnostic connector. Enter Diagnostic Test Mode. Record all codes. If fault code 47 is stored, check for a loose fan belt. Check battery and alternator output.
2. Turn ignition off. Erase all fault codes. Start the engine and let it idle for 7 minutes. Raise engine speed to 1500 RPM for 30 seconds. Stop engine. Enter into Diagnostic Test Mode. Record all codes.
3. If code(s) were not stored after memory was cleared, problem no longer exists. Go to step 6). If same code(s) were stored before and after memory was cleared, problem still exists.
4. If code 88-12-55 is stored, proceed to CH2. If code 88-12-16-55 is stored, proceed to CH3. If codes 88-12-41-46-55 or 88-12-46-55 are stored, proceed to CH4.
5. If codes 88-12-41-55, 88-12-41-47-55 or 88-12-47-55 are stored, proceed to CH5. If there is no code 88, ensure diagnostic readout box is operating properly and that there is not an open circuit between SMEC and DRB II diagnostic connector. (Scheme 101): DRB II Tester (C-4805)
6. Connect DRB II as in previous steps. If code 16 or 41 appeared before fault codes were erased in step 2), fault is intermittent. Enter ATM Test Mode "09" for code 41 or ATM Test Mode "07" for code 16. Connect voltmeter to the field control wire of alternator. Wiggle wires and connectors in charging circuit while observing voltage pulsations on voltmeter. When voltage pulsates while a circuit is being wiggled, this indicates an intermittent fault. Repair wire and/or connector. Retest circuits.

TROUBLE CODE-TO-TEST MENU (CHARGING SYSTEM TESTS)

TROUBLE CODE-TO-CHARGING SYSTEM TEST MENU

CH2 - CHECKING BATTERY TEMP SENSOR CALIBRATION

1. Connect DRB II to diagnostic connector. Put system in Engine Running Test Mode "61". If DRB II display is between .2-3.0 volts, go to next step. If DRB II display is not between .2-3.0 volts, logic board is defective, replace SMEC.
2. Put system in Engine Running Test Mode "67". If DRB II display is between 13-15 volts, Check condition of battery. Check for battery drain condition. If display on DRB II is not between 13-15 volts, check alternator for low output.

CH3, CODE 16 - BATTERY VOLTAGE SENSING CIRCUIT

1. Disconnect 60-pin SMEC connector. Connect voltmeter between cavity No. 41 (Red Wire) and vehicle ground.
2. If display is within one volt of battery voltage, logic board is defective, ensure terminal in cavity No. 41 is not damaged, causing a poor connection. If terminal is okay, replace SMEC. If display reads zero volts, repair open in Red wire.

Checking Cavity 41 Voltage. Scheme 102

Scheme 103

Scheme 104

1. Disconnect 14-pin connector from SMEC. Separate the 14-pin connector halves. Reconnect the half of connector containing cavities No. 1-7 to SMEC. Using an analog voltmeter, connect positive lead to cavity No. 14 (Dark Green wire). Connect negative lead to cavity No. 11 (Dark Green/Orange wire). Enter ATM Test Mode "09". (Scheme 103): Checking Cavity 11 to 14 Voltage
2. If voltmeter reading pulsates between 0-12 volts, check terminals in cavities No. 11 and 14 for damage. If terminals are not damaged, power board is defective, replace SMEC. If voltmeter reads zero volts, go to next step.
3. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. Connect positive lead of analog voltmeter to cavity No. 14 (Dark Green wire). Connect negative lead to vehicle ground. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, go to next step. If voltmeter reads 0-1 volt, repair short in alternator field circuit. (Scheme 104): Testing Cavity 14 Voltage
4. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect an ohmmeter between cavity No. 14 (Dark Green wire) of 60-pin connector and ground. If ohmmeter reads no continuity, check terminal in cavity No. 14 for damage. If terminal in cavity No. 14 is okay, logic board is defective, replace SMEC. If ohmmeter shows continuity, repair short from cavity No. 14 (Dark Green wire) to ground.

Testing Cavity 14 Voltage. Scheme 105

Scheme 106

1. Connect DRB II to diagnostic connector. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to battery ground. Enter ATM Test Mode "09". Connect positive lead to each of the alternator field terminals.
2. If voltmeter reads zero volts at both terminals, repair open in Dark Blue wire. If voltmeter reads battery voltage at one terminal and pulsates between 0-12 volts at other terminal, check alternator drive belt for looseness. Check condition of battery and alternator. If voltmeter reads battery voltage at both terminals, go to next step.
3. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 14-pin connector from SMEC. Separate 14-pin connector halves. Connect voltmeter between cavity No. 14 (Dark Green wire) and vehicle ground. Turn the ignition switch to the "RUN" position.
4. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, go to next step. If voltmeter reads zero voltage, repair open in Dark Green wire. (Scheme 106): Grounding Cavity 14
5. Turn ignition switch to "OFF" position. Reconnect the half of connector containing cavities No. 1-7 to SMEC. Connect ohmmeter between cavity No. 11 (Dark Green/Orange wire) of 14-pin connector and cavity No. 14 (Dark Green/Orange wire) of 60-pin connector.
6. If ohmmeter shows continuity, check terminal in cavity No. 14 of 60-pin connector for damage. If terminal in cavity No. 14 of 60-pin connector is not damaged, logic board is defective, replace the SMEC. If ohmmeter shows no continuity, repair the open in the Dark Green/Orange wire.

Measuring Resistance Between Cavities 14 & 11. Scheme 107

CRUISE CONTROL SYSTEM TEST INFORMATION

Because of limited space available for titles in this product, CRUISE CONTROL SYSTEM test title prefixes have been shortened to CC. This allows more information to display in the menu.

CC1 - CRUISE CONTROL SYSTEM CODE CHECK

1. Connect DRB II Tester (C-4805) to diagnostic connector. Put system in Diagnostic Test Mode. Record all codes. If codes 88-55 or 88-12-55 are displayed (no fault codes), go to next step. If codes 88-34-55 or 88-12-34-55 are displayed (cruise control servo), go to CC2. If codes 88-15-55 or 88-12-15-55 are displayed (speed sensor), go to DR3.
2. Put system in Sensor Test "09". Ensure cruise control switch is in "OFF" position. While observing tester, move cruise control switch to "ON" position. Press "SET" button. Move cruise control switch to 'RESUME" position. Record display on tester.
3. If tester displayed "00" with cruise control on, "10" with "SET" button pressed, and "01" with cruise control switch moved to "RESUME" position, go to CC3. If tester displayed blank with cruise control on blank with "SET" button pressed, and blank with cruise control switch moved to "RESUME" position, go to CC4. If tester displayed blank with cruise control on, "10" with "SET" button pressed, and "10" with cruise control switch moved to "RESUME" position, go to CC5. If tester displayed "00" with cruise control on "00" with "SET" button pressed, and "00" with cruise control switch moved to "RESUME" position, go to CC6.

Cruise Control Switch Positions. Scheme 108

Scheme 109

Scheme 110

Scheme 111

Scheme 112

Scheme 113

1. With tester connected, connect a voltmeter to the Tan/Red wire of cruise control servo harness connector. Connect the other voltmeter lead to ground. Put system in ATM Test "08". Turn cruise control switch to "ON" position. If voltmeter is pulsating between 0-12 volts, go to next. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, go to step 5). If voltmeter reads between 0-1 volt, go to step 6) (Scheme 109): Testing Cruise Control Sensor Voltage
2. Turn ignition off. Connect a voltmeter between Light Green/Red wire at cruise control servo harness connector and ground. Turn ignition on. Turn cruise control on. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, go to next step. If voltmeter reads between 0-1 volt, go to step 4).
3. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect a voltmeter between Light Green/Red wire in cavity No. 60 and ground. Turn ignition on. If voltmeter reds within one volt of battery voltage, replace SMEC for a bad logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in cavity No. 60 of 60-pin connector is not damaged causing a poor connection. If voltmeter reads between 0-1 volt, repair wire in cavity No. 60 for and open circuit to cruise control servo connector. (Scheme 110): Testing Launch 60 voltage
4. With voltmeter connected as in step 2), disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Turn ignition on. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace SMEC for a bad logic board. If voltmeter reds between 0-1 volt, repair Light Green/Red wire of cavity No. 60 for a short to ground from the SMEC to cruise control servo connector.
5. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect a voltmeter between Tan/Red wire in cavity No. 53 and ground. Turn ignition on. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace SMEC for a bad logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure cavity No. 53 of 60-pin connector is not damaged causing a poor connection. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Tan/Red wire of cavity No. 53 for an open circuit to cruise control servo connector. (Scheme 111): Testing Cavity 53 voltage
6. With voltmeter connected as is step 1), disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC Turn ignition. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace SMEC for a bad logic board. If voltmeter reads between 0-1 volt, go to next step. (Scheme 112): Testing Cruise Control Servo Voltage
7. With cruise control switch in "ON" position, turn ignition off. Connect a voltmeter between Dark Blue/Red wire of cruise control servo connector and ground. Turn ignition on. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace cruise control servo. If voltmeter still reads between 0-1 volt, go to next step.
8. With cruise control and ignition on. Connect a voltmeter between Dark Blue/Red wire of brake switch harness connector and ground. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, repair Dark Blue/Red wire for an open circuit to cruise control servo. If voltmeter still reads between 0-1 volt, go to next step. (Scheme 113): Testing Brake Switch Harness Connector Voltage
9. Connect a voltmeter between Yellow/Red wire of brake switch harness connector and ground. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, check brake switch adjustment. If brake switch adjustment is okay, replace brake switch. If voltmeter reds zero volts, repair Yellow/Red wire for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. Make sure fuse for Yellow/Red wire is not blown.

Scheme 114

Scheme 115

Scheme 116

1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect cruise control servo connector. Connect an ohmmeter between Black wire of cruise control servo connector and ground. If ohmmeter is reading continuity, go to next step. If ohmmeter reads no continuity, repair Black wire for an open circuit to wiring harness splice. (Scheme 114): Testing Cruise Control Servo Connector Continuity
2. With tester connected to diagnostic connector, put system in Switch Test Mode. Press down on brake pedal. If display on tester changes as brake pedal was depressed (not important what display changes to, just ensure display changes), go to step 4). If display on tester did not change as brake pedal was depressed, go to next step.
3. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector. Connect an ohmmeter between White/Pink wire in cavity No. 29 and ground. Press down on brake pedal and then release. If ohmmeter reads no continuity when brake pedal is pressed down and continuity when brake pedal is released, replace SMEC for a bad logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure cavity No. 29 of 60-pin connector is not damaged causing a poor connection. If ohmmeter does not indicate as described, check White/Pink wire of cavity No. 29 for an open circuit through stoplight bulb circuit through stoplight bulb circuit to ground. (Scheme 115): Testing Cavity 29 Continuity
4. While observing display on tester, put gear selector in Park, Reverse, Neutral, and Drive. if display on tester changes as gear selector is moved, go to step 6). If display on tester did not change when gear selector was moved, go to next step.
5. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect an ohmmeter between Brown/Yellow wire in cavity No. 30 and ground. Disconnect battery quick-disconnect. Truns ignition on. Observe ohmmeter while moving gear selector. If ohmmeter reads continuity in all positions, check Brown/Yellow wire of cavity No. 30 of 60-pin connector for a short to ground. Check for a bad neutral safety switch. If ohmmeter reads no continuity in all positions, repair Brown/Yellow wire of cavity No. 30 of 60-pin connector for an open circuit to neutral safety switch. If ohmmeter reads continuity in Park, no continuity in Reverse, continuity in Neutral, and no continuity in Drive (disregard resistance readings, just ensure there is continuity), replace SMEC for a bad logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in cavity No. 30 of 60-pin connector is not damaged causing a poor connection. (Scheme 116): Testing Cavity 30 Continuity
6. Connect cruise control servo connector. With tester connected, disconnect cruise control servo vacuum supply hose from brake booster and connect a vacuum pump to hose. Put system in ATM Test "08". Continuously apply vacuum to servo. If throttle is opening and closing a vacuum is being applied to cruise control servo, check vacuum supply to servo. Check speed sensor operation using Engine Running Test "71". Display on tester must remain stable. If display is not stable, replace speed sensor.
7. If throttle isn't opening and closing as vacuum is applied to cruise control servo, replace the servo. Before replacing servo, ensure cruise control cable is properly adjusted and not damaged. Ensure vacuum supply hose is free of leaks and restrictions.

Connecting Vacuum Pump to Brake Booster. Scheme 117

Scheme 118

Scheme 119

1. Without disconnecting harness, connect a jumper wire between Dark Blue/Red and Yellow/Red wires of cruise control switch harness connection. If display reads "00", replace cruise control switch. If display on tester reads blank, go to next step. (Scheme 118): Jumpering Cruise Control Switch Connector
2. Turn ignition off. Without disconnecting connector, connect a voltmeter between Dark Blue/Red wire of cruise control switch harness connector and ground. Turn ignition on. If voltmeter reads within one volt of battery voltage, go to next step. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Dark Blue/Red wire for an open circuit to fuse box. (Scheme 119): Testing Cruise Control Switch Voltage
3. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector. Connect a voltmeter between Yellow/Red wire in cavity No. 8 and ground. Turn ignition on. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace SMEC for a bad logic board. Before replacing SMEC, ensure terminal in cavity No. 8 of 60-pin connector is not damaged causing a poor connection. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Yellow/Red wire in cavity No. 8 for an open circuit to cruise control switch.

Testing Cavity 8 Voltage. Scheme 120

Scheme 121

1. With tester connected to diagnostic connector, put system in Sensor Test "09". Turn cruise control on. Without disconnecting connector, connect a jumper wire between Dark Blue/Red and Brown/Red wires of cruise control switch harness connector. If display on tester is "00', replace cruise control switch. If display on tester is "10", go to next step. (Scheme 121): Jumpering Cruise Control Switch Connector
2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect a voltmeter between Brown/Red wire in cavity No. 9 and ground. Turn ignition on. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace SMEC for a bad logic board. Before replacing SMEC, check cavity No. 9 of 60-pin connector for an open circuit to cruise control switch. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair Brown/Red wire of cavity No. 9 for an open circuit to cruise control switch.

Testing Cavity 9 Voltage. Scheme 122

Scheme 123

1. With tester connected to diagnostic connector, put system in Sensor Test "09". Turn cruise control on. Without disconnecting connector, connect a jumper wire between White and White/Light Green wires of cruise control switch harness connector. If tester displays "01", replace cruise control switch. If display is "00", go to next step. (Scheme 123): Jumpering Cruise Control Switch Connector
2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 60-pin connector from SMEC. Connect a voltmeter between White/Light Green wire in cavity No. 7 and ground. Turn ignition on. Move cruise control switch to "RESUME" position. If voltmeter reads battery voltage, replace SMEC for a bad logic board. Before replacing SMEC, check terminal in cavity No. 7 of 60-pin connector for an open circuit to cruise control switch. If voltmeter reads zero volts, repair White/Light Green wire in cavity No. 7 for an open circuit to cruise control switch.

Testing Cavity 7 Voltage. Scheme 124

Engine Control System Wiring Diagram (Horizon & Omni). Scheme 125

Engine Control System Wiring Diagram (Exc. Horizon & Omni). Scheme 126

Engine Control System Wiring Diagram (2.5L Van/Wagon). Scheme 127

FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE

1. Fuel pressure must be fully released before opening fuel loop or removing any fuel carrying components. To release pressure in tank, open fuel tank cap slowly.
2. To release remaining pressure in system, disconnect 2-way connector from any fuel injector. Using jumper wire, connect either injector terminal to ground. Connect remaining injector terminal to positive battery terminal.
3. DO NOT keep injector connected in this way for more than 10 seconds. Fuel pressure should be fully released.

Removal & Installation

Remove air cleaner duct from SMEC. Remove battery and 2 module mounting bolts. Remove 14-pin and 60-pin wiring connectors from module. Remove module. To install, reverse removal procedure.

AIS MOTOR - TBI & MPFI

Remove air cleaner and disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect 4-pin connector on AIS. Disconnect temperature sending unit from throttle body housing. Remove 2 Torx head screws and AIS motor from throttle body housing. Ensure "O" ring is removed with AIS motor. To install, reverse removal procedure. Ensure that pintle is in retracted position, measuring not more than 1" (25 mm).

Located on right fenderwell by the SMEC. Disconnect wiring harness from components. Remove attaching screws and component. To install, reverse removal procedure.

Remove vacuum hose and screws from sensor. Remove sensor from underhood, near firewall. To install, reverse removal procedure.

The oxygen sensor is located in exhaust manifold. Use Wrench (C-4589) to remove sensor. The threads in exhaust manifold must be cleaned with a tap prior to installation of sensor. If old sensor is being reinstalled, threads on sensor must be coated with anti-seize compound. Tighten sensor to 20 ft. lbs. (27 N.m).

Disconnect negative battery cable and remove air cleaner. Disconnect 3-pin connector at throttle position sensor. Remove 2 screws mounting throttle position sensor to throttle body. Lift throttle position sensor from throttle shaft and remove "O" ring. To install, reverse removal procedure.

Remove air cleaner and disconnect throttle cables from throttle body linkage. Remove 2 screws from throttle cable bracket and lay bracket aside. Disconnect wiring connector by pulling downward. Unscrew sensor. To install, reverse removal procedure.

See also:
• FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM - TBI
• CH2
• CH3
• CH5
• DR2
• DR14
• NS2
• NS6
• NS14
• NS3
• NS9
• NS4
• NS5
• NS18
• DR4
• DR19
• FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE
• DR23