Starting System Buick Regal III

DESCRIPTION

The Delco-Remy starter is part of the cranking circuit, which also consists of the battery, ignition switch and related wiring. (Scheme 5) When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, the starter solenoid windings are energized. This causes the solenoid plunger to move the shift lever, which engages the pinion with the engine flywheel ring gear. The movement of the plunger also closes the main solenoid contacts, applying battery voltage to the starter.

When the engine starts, the pinion will overrun, protecting the armature from excessive speed and the flywheel from damage. When the ignition switch is released, the plunger return spring disengages the pinion.

Scheme 5

STARTER NOISE

1. A high-pitched whine, heard while cranking (before engine starts), indicates excessive distance between starter pinion and flywheel. If high-pitched whine is heard after engine starts and key is released, distance between starter pinion and flywheel is too short.
2. If loud, siren-like "whoop" sound is heard after the engine starts, clutch is likely defective. If "rumble", "growl" or "knock" is present as starter is coasting to a stop after starting engine, starter armature is bent or unbalanced.
3. If diagnosis indicates pinion should be closer to flywheel, remove one double .015" shim or add a single .015" shim to the outer bolt only. If noise persists, continue removing or adding shims to outside bolt as required. See «REMOVAL & INSTALLATION»(/buick/regal/iii-1988-1997/remont/starter/#starting-system__removal-installation) .
4. If diagnosis indicates pinion should be moved away from flywheel, add one .015" shim. If condition is not corrected, another .015" shim may be added. DO NOT exceed .045" shim thickness. See «REMOVAL & INSTALLATION»(/buick/regal/iii-1988-1997/remont/starter/#starting-system__removal-installation) .

Note. For additional trouble shooting information, refer to the TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES article in the GENERAL TROUBLE SHOOTING section.

No Cranking Test

1. Turn headlights and interior light on. Turn ignition switch to START position. If lights are dim or go out, go to step 5). If lights stay bright, turn on radio and heater.
2. If radio and heater are inoperative, check bulkhead connector, fusible link and ignition switch connectors. If radio and heater operate, check connections and voltage at starter solenoid terminal "S". (Scheme 6)
3. If voltage at terminal "S" is greater than 7 volts, repair the starter. If voltage is less than 7 volts, turn the ignition switch to the START position. Check voltage at ignition switch solenoid terminal "S".
4. If voltage at ignition switch terminal "S" is less than 7 volts, replace ignition switch. If voltage is greater than 7 volts, repair Purple wire from ignition switch to starter solenoid.
5. If lights are dim or go out, check battery state of charge. If charge is low, charge battery and check for electrical drain. If charge is okay, check cranking voltage at battery posts.
6. If voltage is less than 9.6 volts, test battery. If battery is okay, repair starter. If voltage is greater than 9.6 volts, check voltage from engine block to battery negative post.
7. Turn ignition switch to START position (positive lead on engine block). If voltage is greater than.5 volt, clean and tighten ground cable connection and/or replace negative battery cable.
8. If voltage is less than.5 volt, check cranking voltage at starter terminal "B". If voltage is less than 9 volts, clean and tighten positive battery cable terminals and or replace positive battery cable. If voltage is greater than 9 volts, check fusible link and bulkhead connector. If fusible link and bulkhead connector are okay, repair starter.

Starter Solenoid Not Clicking

1. Turn ignition switch to START position. Place gear selector in Park (A/T) or depress clutch (M/T). Measure voltage between starter solenoid terminal "S" (Purple wire) and ground. (Scheme 6)
2. If battery voltage is not present, on A/T models, go to step 4). On M/T models, go to step 6). If battery voltage is present, measure voltage between solenoid terminal "S" (Purple wire) and starter mounting bolts.
3. If battery voltage is not present, clean starter mounting bolts. Check starter for good ground.
4. On A/T models, disconnect gear selector switch connector. Turn ignition switch to START position. Measure voltage between gear selector switch terminal "F" and ground.
5. If battery voltage is not present, go to step 12). If battery voltage is present, go to step 8).
6. On M/T models, disconnect clutch switch connector. Turn ignition switch to START position. Measure voltage between clutch switch connector terminal "B" and ground.
7. If battery voltage is not present, go to step 12). If battery voltage is present, go to step 10).
8. Disconnect gear selector switch. Using a fused jumper wire, connect wire between gear selector switch connector terminal "E" and terminal "F". Turn ignition switch to START position. Engine should crank.
9. If engine does not crank, check and repair open in circuit No. 6 (Purple wire). If engine cranks, adjust and/or replace gear selector switch.
10. If battery voltage is present, disconnect clutch switch connector. Place transmission in Neutral and turn ignition switch to START position. Using a fused jumper wire, connect wire between clutch switch connector terminal "A" and terminal "B". Engine should crank.
11. If engine does not crank, check and repair open in circuit No. 6 (Purple wire). If engine cranks, replace clutch switch.
12. With ignition switch connectors connected, measure voltage between ignition switch connector Red wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present. If battery voltage is not present, check fusible link and Red wire for an open.
13. If battery voltage is present, turn ignition switch to START position. Measure voltage between ignition switch connector Yellow wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present.
14. If battery voltage is not present, replace ignition switch. If battery voltage is present, ensure ignition switch is in START position. On A/T, place gear selector in Park. On M/T, depress clutch pedal.
15. Ensure starter enable relay connector is connected, if equipped. Using a fused jumper wire, connect jumper between starter relay terminal "B" and ground. Engine should crank.
16. If engine does not crank, go to next step. If engine cranks, check circuit No. 625 (Black/Yellow wire) for an open circuit.
17. Disconnect starter relay connector. Turn ignition switch to START position. Measure voltage between relay connector Yellow wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present.
18. If battery voltage is not present, repair open in circuit No. 5 (Yellow wire). If battery voltage is present, connect a fused jumper wire between starter relay connector terminal "A" (Tan/White wire) and terminal "E" (Yellow wire).
19. On A/T, place gear selector in Park. On M/T, depress clutch pedal. Engine should crank. If engine does not crank, repair open in circuit No. 1433 (Tan/White wire). If engine cranks, replace starter enable relay.

Slow Cranking Test

1. Check battery state of charge and condition of battery cables and connections. If battery needs charging, check for proper alternator output and possible battery drain.
2. Charge battery and check cranking. If slow cranking still remains, disable ignition system to read voltage during cranking. Measure cranking voltage at battery posts.
3. If cranking voltage is greater than 9.6 volts, go to next step. If voltage is less than 9.6 volts, charge battery and perform battery load test. If battery load test is not within specification, replace battery. If battery load test is within specification, repair starter.
4. If cranking voltage is greater than 9.6 volts, measure voltage from battery negative terminal to engine block (positive lead on engine block). If voltage is greater than .5 volt, repair ground cable and connections.
5. If voltage is less than .5 volt, measure voltage at starter solenoid terminal "B". Clean and tighten connections at starter. If voltage is greater than 9 volts, check fusible link and bulkhead connector. If fusible link and bulkhead connector are okay, repair starter. If voltage is less than 9 volts, clean and tighten positive battery cable connections. If cable connections are okay, replace positive battery cable.

IGNITION SWITCH TEST

Note. For an "engine not cranking" condition with A/T, determine if condition exists in both Park and Neutral positions. If condition occurs in one position and not other, a more probable cause is a faulty neutral start switch.

Test ignition switch operation by rotating cylinder/key through all switch positions. Movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The cylinder/key should return from the START position back to the RUN position without assistance. Inspect and repair if necessary.

SOLENOID WINDINGS TESTS

Note. To prevent overheating, perform solenoid tests as quickly as possible with leads disconnected.

Hold-In Windings Test

Connect an ammeter in series with 12-volt battery and terminal "S" on starter solenoid. (Scheme 6) Connect a voltmeter between solenoid terminal "S" and ground. Connect a carbon pile rheostat across battery. Adjust voltage to 10 volts and check amperage reading. See HOLD-IN WINDINGS SPECIFICATIONS table.

HOLD-IN WINDINGS SPECIFICATIONS

Pull-In Windings Test

Connect test equipment. See HOLD-IN WINDINGS TEST heading above. (Scheme 6) Ground terminal "M" of solenoid. Adjust voltage to 10 volts and note ammeter reading. See PULL-IN WINDINGS SPECIFICATIONS table.

Note. Current will decrease as windings heat up.

PULL-IN WINDINGS SPECIFICATIONS

Test Results

If current draw reads greater than specification, short or ground is present in windings of solenoid. Low current draw indicates excessive resistance. No current indicates an open circuit. Check connections. Replace starter solenoid as necessary.

Scheme 6

STARTER NO-LOAD TEST

1. Connect test equipment to starter. (Scheme 7) Close switch, and compare RPM and amperage readings with specifications. See STARTER NO-LOAD TEST SPECIFICATIONS table. CAUTION: DO NOT apply more voltage than specified. Excessive voltage may cause armature to throw windings due to excessive speed.
2. If current draw and RPM meet specification, starter motor is okay. If test indicates low free speed and high current draw, unit may have tight, dirty or worn bearings, shorted or grounded armature, bent armature shaft, or grounded fields.
3. Failure to operate with high current draw indicates direct ground in terminal fields or frozen bearings. Failure to operate with no current draw indicates an open field circuit, open solenoid windings, open armature coils or broken brush springs.
4. Low RPM and low current draw indicates high internal resistance due to poor connections, defective leads or dirty commutator. High free speed and high current draw indicate shorted fields.

Scheme 7

STARTER NO-LOAD TEST SPECIFICATIONS

PRELIMINARY TESTS

Remove starter from vehicle. See REMOVAL & INSTALLATION . Ensure pinion moves freely on screw shaft. Ensure armature rotates freely by prying pinion. If armature does not turn freely, disassemble motor for inspection. If armature rotates freely, perform starter motor no-load test before disassembly.

ARMATURE TEST

1. Test armature for shorted coils with growler. Check for grounded coils with test light. Place one lead on armature shaft and other lead on commutator. Test light should not illuminate. If test light illuminates, armature is grounded and must be replaced.
2. Turn commutator in lathe if it is rough, worn or has protruding insulation. DO NOT turn to less than 1.65" (41.9 mm) diameter. Sand commutator lightly with 400 grit emery cloth, and clean slots.

SERIES COIL OPEN TEST

Using self-powered test light, place one lead on series coil terminal connection and other lead on insulated brush. (Scheme 8) If test light fails to illuminate, series coil is open and requires repair or replacement. Repeat test for each insulated brush.

Scheme 8

SERIES COIL GROUND TEST

On starters with shunt coil, separate series and shunt coil strap terminals during test. Using test light, place one lead on grounded brush holder and other lead on either insulated brush. (Scheme 9) If test light glows, a grounded series coil is indicated. Repair or replace series coil.

Scheme 9

BRUSHES, SPRINGS & HOLDERS CHECK

Replace brushes if worn to 1/2 of original length, oil-soaked or pitted. Check brush spring tension and replace springs if weak or distorted.

OVERRUNNING CLUTCH CHECK

Clutch pinion should turn freely in one direction only. Check pinion teeth for chips, cracks or excessive wear. Chipped teeth may indicate defective ring gear.

PINION CLEARANCE CHECK

1. Disconnect motor field coil at solenoid terminal "M", and insulate field connector. Connect negative ground lead to starter frame. Connect 12 volts to solenoid terminal "S". Momentarily touch jumper lead from solenoid terminal "M" to starter frame, shifting pinion into cranking position.
2. Push pinion as far as possible away from retainer. Using a feeler gauge, ensure there is.010-.160" (.25-4.06 mm) clearance between pinion and retainer. (Scheme 10)

Note. Pinion clearance is not adjustable. If clearance is not within specification, disassemble and check motor.

Scheme 10

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Raise and support vehicle. As required, remove nuts from A/C compressor and engine brace, adjacent to starter. Remove other items that may interfere with removal of starter.
2. If necessary, remove nut from engine cross brace. Using pry bar between upper engine mount and engine, pry rearward and support engine.
3. If necessary, remove oil filter, air induction tube and cooling fan. Disconnect wiring at starter, and note position. Remove starter mounting bolts and any shims. Remove starter.

INSTALLATION

Before installation, ensure pinion-to-flywheel clearance is.020" (0.5 mm). (Scheme 11) Add or subtract shims as necessary. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Tighten mounting bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 N.m).

Scheme 11

STARTER

Starter motors do not require lubrication, except during overhaul. Roll-type overrunning clutch requires no lubrication. Drive assembly, however, should be wiped clean and lubricated with silicon grease on shaft, underneath overrunning clutch assembly. (Scheme 12)

Scheme 12

See also:
• TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES
• COMPUTER RELEARN PROCEDURES
• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
• HOLD-IN WINDINGS SPECIFICATIONS