Engine Mechanical - 3.8l (Unit Repair) Buick LeSabre VIII

Fastener Tightening Specifications

FASTENER TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS

Engine Mechanical Specifications

ENGINE MECHANICAL SPECIFICATIONS

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The primary Vehicle Identification Number - VIN derivative for the 3800 - L36 and 3800 - L67 is stamped or laser etched on the left side of the engine block above the starter motor (1).

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The secondary Vehicle Identification Number - VIN, derivative for the 3800 - L36 and 3800 - L67 is stamped or laser etched below the water pump on the engine block (1). The Vehicle Identification Number - derivative is nine digits long and can be used to determine if a vehicle contains the original engine.

1. The first digit identifies the division.
2. The second digit identifies the model year.
3. The third digit identifies the assembly plant.
4. The fourth through ninth digit are the last six of the Vehicle Identification Number - VIN.

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1. Remove the oil drain plug.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove the oil filter.
4. Remove the coolant drain plugs.
5. Drain the coolant.

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1. Remove the oil drain plug.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove the oil filter.
4. Remove the coolant drain plugs.
5. Drain the coolant.

Crankshaft Balancer Removal

Tools Required

1. J 37096 Flywheel Holding Tool
2. J 38197-A Crankshaft Balancer Puller

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1. Use J 37096 in order to hold the flywheel.
2. Remove the crankshaft balancer bolt.
3. Use the J 38197-A in order to remove the crankshaft balancer. Important: Do not separate the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft balancer. Service the crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft balancer as an assembly. 3.1. Invert J 38197-2 so the leg of the tool is facing away from the crankshaft balancer. 3.2. Install the silver screws J 38197-4 to the crankshaft balancer. 3.3. Turn J 38197-1 to remove the crankshaft balancer from the crankshaft. 3.4. Remove J 38197-1, J 38197-2, and J 38197-4 from the crankshaft balancer.

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1. Remove the flywheel bolts. Discard the bolts.
2. Remove the flywheel.

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1. Remove the flywheel bolts. Discard the bolts.
2. Remove the flywheel.

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1. Remove the drive belt tensioner bracket nuts.
2. Remove the drive belt tensioner bracket.

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1. Remove the drive belt tensioner bracket bolt.
2. Remove the drive belt tensioner bracket.

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1. Remove the drive belt idler pulley bolt.
2. Remove the drive belt idler pulley.

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1. Remove the drive belt idler pulley bracket bolts.
2. Remove the drive belt idler pulley bracket.

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1. Remove the oil level indicator.
2. Remove the oil level indicator tube nut.
3. Remove the oil level indicator tube.

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1. Remove the water outlet bolts.
2. Remove the water outlet.
3. Remove the thermostat.

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1. Remove the water outlet bolts.
2. Remove the water outlet.
3. Remove the thermostat.

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1. Remove the water pump pulley bolts.
2. Remove the water pump pulley.
3. Remove the water pump bolts.
4. Remove the water pump.
5. Remove the water pump gasket.

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1. Remove the spark plug wires.
2. Remove the vacuum line from the fuel injector rail.
3. Remove the fuel injector rail nuts and stud.
4. Remove the fuel injector rail.
5. Remove the booster bypass nut and hose.
6. Remove the booster bypass.
7. Remove the regulator valve and the harness bolt.
8. Remove the boost solenoid bolts and hose.
9. Remove the bolts from the vacuum block.
10. Remove the engine wiring harness heat shield bolt and nut.
11. Remove the engine wiring harness heat shield.
12. Remove the MAP sensor bracket bolts and hose.
13. Remove the MAP sensor bracket. Important: Note the location of the spacers and the bolt sizes to aid in installation.
14. Remove the TBI nuts.
15. Remove the TBI and gasket.
16. Remove the bolts, spacers, and the stud from the supercharger.
17. Remove the supercharger.
18. Remove the supercharger gasket.

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1. Remove the spark plug wires.
2. Disconnect the ignition wires from the fuel injector rail.
3. Disconnect the ignition control module connector from the ignition control module assembly.
4. Remove the ignition control module assembly nuts.
5. Remove the ignition control module assembly.
6. Remove the fuel injector rail nuts.
7. Remove the fuel injector rail.
8. Remove the accelerator control cable bracket bolts.
9. Remove the accelerator control cable bracket from the intake manifold.
10. Remove the engine wiring harness heat shield bolt and nut.
11. Remove the engine wiring harness heat shield.
12. Remove the throttle body nuts.
13. Remove the throttle body.
14. Remove the throttle body gasket.
15. Remove the upper intake manifold bolts and nuts.
16. Remove the upper intake manifold.

Intake Manifold Removal - Lower (L36)

Important: The two bolts which fasten the lower intake manifold to the cylinder head are accessible only after the upper intake is removed. The bolts are located in the right front and left rear corners of the lower intake manifold. Remove the upper intake manifold to service the lower intake.

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1. Remove the EGR outlet pipe from the intake manifold.
2. Remove the lower intake manifold bolts.
3. Remove the lower intake manifold.
4. Remove the lower intake manifold gasket.

Intake Manifold Removal - Lower (L67)

Important: The two bolts which fasten the lower intake manifold to the cylinder head are accessible only after the upper intake is removed. The bolts are located in the right front and left rear corners of the lower intake manifold. Remove the upper intake manifold to service the lower intake.

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1. Remove the EGR outlet pipe from the intake manifold.
2. Remove the lower intake manifold bolts.
3. Remove the lower intake manifold.
4. Remove the lower intake manifold gasket.

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1. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield nuts.
2. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield.
3. Remove the left engine lift hook nut and bolt.
4. Remove the left engine lift hook.
5. Remove the left side spark plugs.
6. Remove the exhaust manifold bolt and studs.
7. Remove the exhaust manifold.
8. Remove the exhaust manifold gasket.
9. Remove the exhaust manifold studs.

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1. Remove the EGR inlet pipe from the exhaust manifold.
2. Remove the EGR mounting bracket bolts.
3. Remove the EGR mounting bracket.
4. Remove the heated oxygen sensor lead.
5. Remove the fuel injector sight shield mounting bracket nuts.
6. Remove the fuel injector sight shield mounting bracket.
7. Remove the right engine lift hook nut and bolt.
8. Remove the right engine lift hook bracket.
9. Remove the upper right exhaust manifold heat shield.
10. Remove the lower right exhaust manifold heat shield.
11. Remove the right side spark plugs.
12. Remove the exhaust manifold studs.
13. Remove the exhaust manifold.
14. Remove the exhaust manifold gasket.
15. Remove the exhaust manifold studs.

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1. Remove the EGR inlet pipe from the exhaust manifold.
2. Remove the EGR mounting bracket bolts.
3. Remove the EGR mounting bracket.
4. Remove air injection pipe assembly nuts.
5. Remove air injection pipe.
6. Remove the heated oxygen sensor lead.
7. Remove the heated oxygen sensor.
8. Remove vacuum solenoid bolt.
9. Remove vacuum solenoid and lines.
10. Remove Air Injection check valve bolts (1, 2).
11. Remove air injection check valve.
12. Remove the fuel injector sight shield mounting bracket nuts.
13. Remove the fuel injector sight shield mounting bracket.
14. Remove the right engine lift hook nut and bolt.
15. Remove the right engine lift hook bracket.
16. Remove the upper right exhaust manifold heat shield.
17. Remove the lower right exhaust manifold heat shield.
18. Remove the right side spark plugs.
19. Remove the exhaust manifold studs.
20. Remove the exhaust manifold.
21. Remove the exhaust manifold gasket.
22. Remove the exhaust manifold studs.

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1. Remove the valve rocker arm cover bolts.
2. Remove the valve rocker arm cover.

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1. Remove the valve rocker arm cover bolts.
2. Remove the valve rocker arm cover.

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1. Remove the valve rocker arm bolts.
2. Remove the valve rocker arm.
3. Remove the push rods.
4. Remove the push rod guide plate.

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1. Remove the cylinder head bolts.
2. Discard the cylinder head bolts.
3. Remove the cylinder head.
4. Remove the cylinder head gasket.

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1. Remove the cylinder head bolts.
2. Discard the cylinder head bolts.
3. Remove the cylinder head.
4. Remove the cylinder head gasket.

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1. Remove the valve lifter guide retainer bolts.
2. Remove the valve lifter guide retainers.
3. Remove the valve lifters.

Crankshaft Front Oil Seal Removal

Important: Do not damage the seal bore or the contact surfaces.

Use a screwdriver to pry out the crankshaft front oil seal.

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1. Remove the crankshaft position sensor shield.
2. Remove the crankshaft position sensor studs.
3. Remove the crankshaft position sensor.
4. Remove the bolts connecting the oil pan to the engine front cover.
5. Remove the engine front cover bolts and stud.
6. Remove the engine front cover.
7. Remove the engine front cover gasket.

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1. Remove the oil filter adapter bolts from the engine front cover.
2. Remove the oil filter adapter.
3. Remove the oil filter adapter gasket.
4. Remove the oil pressure relief valve.
5. Remove the oil pressure relief valve spring.

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1. Align the timing marks on the sprockets.
2. Remove the timing chain dampener.
3. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt.
4. Remove the camshaft sprocket.
5. Remove the timing chain.
6. Remove the crankshaft sprocket.
7. Remove the crankshaft balancer key.
8. Remove the balance shaft drive gear.

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1. Align the timing marks on the sprockets.
2. Remove the timing chain dampener.
3. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt.
4. Remove the camshaft sprocket.
5. Remove the timing chain.
6. Remove the crankshaft sprocket.
7. Remove the crankshaft balancer key.
8. Remove the balance shaft drive gear.

Balance Shaft Removal

Tools Required: J 6125-1B Slide Hammer

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1. Remove the balance shaft driven gear bolt.
2. Remove the balance shaft driven gear.
3. Remove the balance shaft retainer bolts.
4. Remove the balance shaft retainer.
5. Use J 6125-1B to remove the balance shaft.

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1. Remove the camshaft thrust plate screws.
2. Remove the camshaft thrust plate.
3. Install one 1/2-20 x 6.0 inch bolt in the camshaft front bolt hole. Important: All camshaft journals are the same diameter, so care must be used in removing the camshaft to avoid damage to the bearings.
4. Carefully rotate and pull the camshaft out of the bearings.

Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Removal

Important: Do not damage the crankshaft or the crankshaft rear oil seal housing.

Pry the crankshaft rear oil seal out with a screwdriver.

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1. Remove the crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts.
2. Remove the crankshaft rear oil seal housing.

Oil Pan Removal

Note. Remove the oil level sensor, located in the oil pan, before the oil pan is removed. The sensor may be damaged if the oil pan is removed first.

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1. Remove the oil level sensor.
2. Remove the oil pan bolts.
3. Remove the oil pan.
4. Remove the oil pan gasket.

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1. Remove the oil pump pipe and screen assembly bolts.
2. Remove the oil pump pipe and screen assembly.
3. Remove the oil pump pipe and screen assembly gasket.
4. Use solvent to clean the oil pump pipe and screen.

Piston, Connecting Rod & Bearing Removal

Tools Required

1. J 41507 Connecting Rod Guide Assembly
2. J 24270 Cylinder Ridge Reamer

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1. Mark the connecting rod cap and the connecting rod for proper installation. NOTE: If there is a pronounced ridge at the top of the piston travel, the ridge must be removed with a ridge reamer before the piston and connecting rod assembly are removed. Applying force may break the piston rings or damage the piston.
2. Use the J 24270 to remove the cylinder bore ring ridge. 2.1. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at the bottom of the stroke. 2.2. Cover the piston with a cloth. 2.3. Remove the cylinder ring ridge. 2.4. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at the top of the stroke. 2.5. Remove the cloth. 2.6. Remove the metal shavings from the cylinder and piston.
3. Remove the connecting rod bolts.
4. Remove the connecting rod cap.
5. Install J 41507 to the connecting rod. Hand tighten the tool to the connecting rod.
6. Use hand pressure on J 41507 to push the connecting rod towards the top of the cylinder. Important: Mark the piston with the number of the cylinder from which it was removed. Mark the piston as to what is the front for proper reassembly.
7. Remove the piston, the connecting rod, and the connecting rod bearings.

Crankshaft & Bearings Removal

Tools Required

1. J 6125-1B Slide Hammer
2. J 41348 Main Bearing Cap Puller

Important: This engine has side bolts on all of the main caps except the rear cap. These bolts must be removed to service the caps.

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1. Remove the crankshaft main bearing cap side bolts.
2. Remove the crankshaft main bearing cap bolts. NOTE: Main bearing caps are press fit. Remove the caps carefully for service. J 41348 has been designed to work with J 6125-B in order to prevent damage to the bearing and cap. J 41348 MUST be installed properly into the bolt holes of the caps and J 6125-B attached to J 41348 in order to properly remove the main cap without damaging the bearing or the cap. Any deviation from this procedure may cause damage to the cap and the bearing and may result in future engine damage.
3. Install J 41348 into the crankshaft main bearing cap bolt holes. Tighten the bolts on J 41348 to 12 N.m (100 Inch lbs).
4. Install J 6125-1B to J 41348 .
5. Use J 6125-1B to remove the crankshaft main lower bearing caps.
6. Remove the crankshaft.
7. Remove the upper main bearings from the engine block.

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1. Remove the threaded coolant jacket plugs.
2. Remove the remaining plugs using the following procedure. 2.1. Obtain a suitable self-threading screw. 2.2. Drill a hole into the plug. 2.3. Install the self-threading screw. 2.4. Use the screw to pry out the plug.

Camshaft Bearing Removal

Tools Required: J 33049 Camshaft Bearing Remover/Installer

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1. Select the expander assembly and driving washer.
2. Assemble J 33049 .
3. Drive out the camshaft bearings.

Balance Shaft Bearing And/Or Bushing Removal

Tools Required: J 36995 Balance Shaft Bearing Remover/Installer

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1. Use J 36995 to remove the balance shaft bearing.
2. Use J 36995 to remove the balance shaft bushing. It may take a considerable amount of force to loosen the bushing from the block bore.

Engine Block Cleaning & Inspection

Tools Required

1. J 8087 Cylinder Bore Gage
2. J 8001 Dial Indicator Set

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1. Clean the sealing material from the gasket mating surfaces.
2. Boil the engine block in caustic solution.
3. Flush the engine block with clean water or steam.
4. Clean the oil passages.
5. Clean the blind holes.
6. Spray the cylinder bores and the machined surfaces with engine oil.
7. Inspect the threaded holes. Clean the holes with a tap. If necessary, drill out the holes and install thread inserts. Refer to «Thread Repair»(/buick/lesabre/viii-2000-2005/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-38l-unit-repair__thread-repair) .
8. Use a straight edge and a feeler gage to check the deck surface for flatness. Carefully machine minor irregularities. Replace the block if more than 0.254 mm (0.010 in) must be removed.
9. Inspect the oil pan rail for nicks. Inspect the front cover attaching area for nicks. Use a flat mill file to remove any nicks.
10. Inspect the mating surfaces of the transmission case. NOTE: A broken flywheel may result if the transmission case mating surface is not flat.
11. Use the following procedure to measure the engine block flange runout at the six mounting bolt hole bosses: 11.1. Temporarily install the crankshaft. Measure the crankshaft flange runout. 11.2. Hold the gauge plate flat against the crankshaft flange. 11.3. Place J 8001 on the transmission mounting bolt hole boss. Set the indicator to 0. 11.4. Record the readings obtained from all of the bolt hole bosses. The measurements should not vary more than 0.254 mm (0.010 in). 11.5. Recheck the crankshaft flange runout if the readings vary more than 0.254 mm (0.010 in).
12. Inspect the crankshaft main bearing bores. Use J 8087 to measure the bearing bore concentricity and alignment at the following locations: The camshaft. The crankshaft. Important: Recondition the engine block with the crankshaft main bearing caps and the crankshaft main bearing cap side bolts installed and tightened to specification.
13. Ensure that the crankshaft main bearing caps are installed correctly. The arrows should point toward the front of the engine.
14. Replace the engine block if the bores are out of specification.
15. Use J 8087 to inspect the cylinder bores. Inspect for the following items: Wear. Taper. Run-out. Ridging. Important: If the bore is worn beyond the limits, refit the bore with oversized pistons. Select the smallest available oversize piston. Refer to «Cylinder Boring & Honing»(/buick/lesabre/viii-2000-2005/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-38l-unit-repair) .
16. Leave sufficient material to allow honing when fitting the piston.

Boring Procedure

1. Before honing or boring, measure all of the new pistons. Select the smallest piston for the piston fitting. Slightly varied pistons in a set may provide correction, if the first piston is too loosely fitted.
2. Before using any type of boring bar, file the top of the engine block to remove any dirt or burrs. If the cylinder block is not straight, the boring bar may be tilted, causing the bored cylinder wall to have incorrect right angles to the crankshaft.
3. Carefully follow the instructions furnished by the manufacturer regarding use of equipment.
4. Install all crankshaft main bearing caps to specification when boring cylinders. Cover or tape the crankshaft bearings and other internal parts to protect these parts during the boring or honing operation.
5. Leave 0.03 mm (0.001 in) on the diameter for finish honing when performing the final cut with a boring bar. Carefully perform the honing and boring operation to maintain the specified clearances between pistons, rings, and cylinder bores.

Honing Procedure

1. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for use, cleaning, and lubrication when honing the cylinders. Use only clean, sharp stones of the proper grade for the amount of material to be removed. Dull, dirty stones cut unevenly and generate excessive heat. When using coarse or medium-grade stones, leave sufficient metal so all stone marks may be removed with the fine stones used for finishing to provide the proper clearance.
2. During the honing operation, thoroughly clean the cylinder bore. Check for the correct piston fit.
3. Make full strokes in the cylinder to eliminate taper. Repeatedly check the measurement at the top, the middle, and the bottom of the cylinder bore. NOTE: Handle the pistons with care. Do not force the pistons through the cylinder until you hone the cylinder to the correct size. The piston can be distorted through careless handling. Important: The finish marks should be clean but not sharp. The finish marks should be free from imbedded particles and torn or folded metal.
4. When finish honing a cylinder bore to fit a piston, move the hone up and down at a sufficient speed to obtain a fine and uniform surface finish in a cross hatch pattern.
5. Determine the finish hone cylinder measurement by measuring the piston to be installed, and by adding the average of the clearance specification. Measure the block and the piston at normal room temperature.
6. True up the refinished cylinder bores. Final hone each cylinder bore to remove all stone or cutter marks.
7. After final honing and before the piston is checked for fit, clean the bores with hot water and detergent. Scrub the bores with a stiff bristle brush and rinse the bores thoroughly with hot water. Do not allow any abrasive material to remain in the cylinder bores. This abrasive material will wear the new rings, the cylinder bores, and the bearings lubricated by the contaminated oil. After washing dry the bore.
8. Permanently mark the piston for the cylinder to which the piston has been fitted.
9. Apply clean engine oil to each bore to prevent rusting.

Crankshaft & Bearings Cleaning & Inspection

Tools Required: J 8087 Cylinder Bore Gage

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1. Clean the crankshaft of the following elements: Oil Sludge Carbon
2. Inspect the crankshaft oil passages for obstructions.
3. Inspect the crankshaft keyway for nicks or wear.
4. Inspect the crankshaft threads. Important: If cracks, severe gouges or burned spots are found, the crankshaft must be replaced. Slight roughness may be removed with a fine polishing cloth soaked in clean engine oil. Burrs may be removed with a fine oil stone.
5. Inspect the crankshaft bearing journals and the crankshaft thrust surfaces for the following conditions: Cracks Chips Gouges Roughness Grooves Overheating, discoloration
6. Inspect the corresponding crankshaft bearings for embedded foreign material and determine the source. Important: Note the location of the crankshaft main bearing high spots. If they are not in line, the crankshaft is bent and must be replaced.
7. Inspect the crankshaft bearings for uneven side-to-side wear. This may indicate a bent crankshaft or a tapered bearing journal. Important: The crankshaft bearings are the precision insert type. The crankshaft bearings are available in standard and various undersize.
8. Inspect the outer surfaces of the crankshaft bearings for the following conditions: Wear - surface wear indicates either movement of the insert or high spots in the surrounding material, spot wear. Overheating or discoloration. Looseness or rotation indicated by flattened tangs and wear grooves.
9. Inspect the thrust surfaces of the main thrust bearing for the following conditions: Wear. Grooving, grooves are caused by irregularities of the crankshaft thrust surface. Important: If crankshaft bearing failure is due to other than normal wear, investigate the cause. Inspect the crankshaft or connecting rod bearing bores.
10. Using the J 8087 inspect the connecting rod bearing bores or crankshaft main bearing bores using the following procedure: 10.1. Tighten the bearing cap to specification. 10.2. Measure the bearing bore using J 8087 for taper and out-of-round. 10.3. No taper or out-of-round should exist.

Bearing Selection

Measure the bearing clearance to determine the correct replacement bearing insert size. There are two methods to measure bearing clearance. Method A gives more reliable results and is preferred.

1. Method A yields measurement from which the bearing clearance can be computed.
2. Method B yields the bearing clearance directly. Method B does not give any indication of bearing run-out.

Method A

Important: Do not mix inserts of different nominal size in the same bearing bore.

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1. Measure the crankshaft bearing journal diameter with a micrometer in several places, 90 degrees apart. Average the measurements.
2. Measure the crankshaft bearing journal taper and runout.
3. Install the crankshaft bearing inserts. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to specification.
4. Measure the connecting rod inside diameter in the same direction as the length of the rod with an inside micrometer.
5. Measure the crankshaft main bearing inside diameter with an inside micrometer.
6. Select a set of bearing inserts that will produce the desired clearance.
7. If the specified clearances cannot be met, the crankshaft journals must be reconditioned and undersized bearing inserts installed.

Method B

Important: Do not mix inserts of different nominal size in the same bearing bore.

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1. Clean the used bearing inserts.
2. Install the used bearing inserts.
3. Place a piece of gaging plastic across the entire bearing width.
4. Install the bearing caps. NOTE: In order to prevent the possibility of cylinder block or crankshaft bearing cap damage, the crankshaft bearing caps are tapped into the cylinder block cavity using a brass, lead, or a leather mallet before the attaching bolts are installed. Do not use attaching bolts to pull the crankshaft bearing caps into the seats. Failure to use this process may damage a cylinder block or a bearing cap.
5. Install the bearing cap bolts to specification. Important: Do not rotate the crankshaft.
6. Remove the bearing cap, leaving the gaging plastic in place. It does not matter whether the gaging plastic adheres to the journal or to the bearing cap.
7. Measure the gaging plastic at its widest point with the scale printed on the gaging plastic package.
8. Remove the gaging plastic.
9. Select a set of bearing inserts that will produce the desired clearance.

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1. Inspect the crankshaft balancer for damage.
2. Inspect the outside of the crankshaft balancer mounting shaft for grooves.
3. Replace the crankshaft balancer if grooves are present and appear to be causing an oil leak.

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1. Clean the flywheel.
2. Inspect the engine flywheel for damage and cracks.
3. Inspect the engine flywheel ring gear for damaged teeth.
4. Replace the flywheel if any damage is found.

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1. Clean the flywheel.
2. Inspect the engine flywheel for damage and cracks.
3. Inspect the engine flywheel ring gear for damaged teeth.
4. Replace the flywheel if any damage is found.

Piston & Connecting Rod Disassemble

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1. Remove the piston rings. Use a suitable tool to expand the rings. Piston rings must not be reused. NOTE: When removing or installing the piston pin retainer and piston pin do not damage the piston or the retaining groove in the piston. Damage to the piston or retaining groove can lead to severe engine damage.
2. Remove the piston pin retaining clips.
3. Remove the piston pin.

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1. Clean the piston and connecting rod in solvent.
2. Dry the components with compressed air.
3. Clean the piston ring grooves with a suitable ring groove cleaning tool.
4. Clean the piston oil lubrication holes and slots.
5. Inspect the piston for the following conditions: Eroded areas (1) on top of the piston Scuffed or damaged skirt (2) Damage to the pin bore (3) Cracks in the piston ring lands, the piston skirt, or the pin bosses Piston ring grooves for nicks, burrs, or other warpage which may cause the piston ring to bind.
6. Inspect the piston for scoring, wear or other damage.
7. To determine the piston-to bore clearance, use a micrometer and measure the piston pin.
8. To determine the piston pin-to bore clearance, use an inside micrometer and measure the piston pin bore.
9. To determine the piston pin-to-bore clearance, subtract the piston pin diameter from the piston pin bore diameter.
10. Inspect the connecting rod for an out-of-round bearing bore.
11. Inspect the connecting rod for twisting.
12. Inspect the connecting rod cap bolts for stretch (compare to known good bolt) (1) is a stretched bolt, (2) is a new or good bolt.

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1. Coat the piston pin with oil.
2. Install one piston pin retainer into the retaining groove.
3. Install the connecting rod and piston pin. The connecting rod can be installed in either direction. Push the piston pin in until it bottoms against the installed piston pin retainer.
4. Install the second piston pin retainer.
5. Ensure the piston pin moves freely. NOTE: Use a piston ring expander to install the piston rings. The rings may be damaged if expanded more than necessary. Important: To provide an effective compression seal, the ring gaps must be staggered a minimum of 90 degrees.
6. Using the piston ring pliers, install the piston rings onto the piston. 6.1. Install the oil control ring spacer into the bottom groove of the piston. 6.2. Install the lower oil control ring. The oil control rings do not have a dimple or orientation mark and may be installed in either direction. 6.3. Install the upper oil control ring. 6.4. Install the middle compression ring with the dot facing up. 6.5. Install the top compression ring in either direction. The ring has no orientation markings.

Camshaft & Bearings Cleaning & Inspection

Tools Required: J 7872 Magnetic Base Indicator Set

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1. Measure the camshaft journals with a micrometer. If the camshaft journals are not within specifications, replace the camshaft. The measurement should be 47.655-46.858 mm (1.8462-1.8448 in). If the measurement is not within specifications the engine camshaft must be replaced.
2. Measure the camshaft runout using J 7872 . 2.1. Mount the camshaft in V-blocks between centers. 2.2. Use J 7872 to check the intermediate camshaft journal.
3. If the runout exceeds specifications, the camshaft is bent and should be replaced. If the camshaft journals are more than 0.025 mm (0.0010 in) out-of-round, then replace the engine camshaft.

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1. Inspect the timing chain and sprockets for damage.
2. Inspect the timing chain for overall in and out movement. Movement should not exceed 25 mm (1 in).
3. Inspect the sprockets for wear.

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1. Inspect the timing chain and sprockets for damage.
2. Inspect the timing chain for overall in and out movement. Movement should not exceed 25 mm (1 in).
3. Inspect the sprockets for wear.

Valve Rocker Arm & Push Rods Cleaning & Inspection

Important: Parts that are to be reused must be marked, sorted, and organized for assembly.

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1. Mark, sort, and organize the components for assembly.
2. Clean the components with cleaning solvent.
3. Dry the components with compressed air.
4. Inspect the valve rocker components for the following: Valve rocker arm valve pushrod socket contact surface (1). The contact surface must be smooth with no scoring or excessive wear. Valve rocker arm roller pivot for binding or damage (2). Valve rocker arm valve stem contact surface (3). The contact surface should be smooth with no scoring or excessive wear.
5. Inspect the valve pushrods for the following: Restriction of the oil passage (1). Wear or scoring of the end contact surfaces (2). The end contact surfaces must be smooth with no scoring or excessive wear. Shaft for bends (3). Roll the valve pushrod on a flat surface to determine if the valve pushrod is bent.

Scheme 255

1. Keep the valve lifters in order so they can be installed in their original position. Important: When new valve lifters are installed, coat the valve lifters with camshaft and lifter prelube GM P/N United States 12345501, GM P/N Canada 992704 or the equivalent.
2. Inspect the following areas of the valve lifters: The retaining clip (1). The push rod socket for wear (2). The valve lifter body for wear and scuffing (3). The valve lifter bore for wear. The valve lifter roller assembly for wear (4). The valve lifter roller pin for damage (5). The oil hole for plugging (6).
3. Inspect the valve lifter guides for cracks or damage.

Cylinder Head Disassemble

Tools Required: J 38606 Valve Spring Compressor

Important: During disassembly, ensure the valve train components are kept together and identified so they can be reinstalled in their original locations and with the same mating surfaces as when removed.

Scheme 256

1. Use J 38606 to compress the valve spring.
2. Remove the valve keys.
3. Remove the valve cap and spring.
4. Remove the valve stem oil seal by prying up on the bottom.

Cylinder Head Cleaning & Inspection

Tools Requires: J 9666 Valve Spring Tester

Scheme 257

Scheme 258

Scheme 259

Scheme 260

Scheme 261

1. Inspect the cylinder head gasket and the mating surfaces for leaks, corrosion, and blow-by.
2. If the gasket failed, determine the cause. Gasket failure is caused by the following conditions: Improper installation. A loose or warped cylinder head. Missing dowel pins.
3. Clean the cylinder head of all foreign material. Do not use a motorized wire brush on any gasket sealing surface.
4. Clean the threaded holes.
5. Inspect the cylinder head for cracks typically between the valve seats and inside of the exhaust ports. Important: Do not attempt to weld the cylinder head. If the cylinder head is damaged, replace the cylinder head.
6. Inspect the cylinder head deck for corrosion.
7. Inspect the following locations for flatness: The cylinder head deck. The intake manifold mating surface. The exhaust manifold mating surface.
8. Recondition the surfaces by parallel grinding. Replace the cylinder head if more than 0.254 mm (0.010 in) is removed.
9. Measure the height from the deck surface to the cast pads. Do this to determine if the cylinder head has sufficient deck surface thickness to resurface. New cylinder heads measure from 1.372-1.676 mm (0.054-0.066 in). If the cylinder head does not meet the minimum thickness after resurfacing, replace the cylinder head.
10. Inspect all of the threaded holes for damage. Repair the threaded holes, if necessary.
11. Inspect the valve seating surfaces.
12. Inspect the cooling jacket plugs.
13. Inspect the valve guides for wear. Clean the valve guides.
14. Inspect the valve seats for excessive wear and hot spots.
15. Inspect the valve springs for squareness.
16. Inspect the valve spring ends. If the valve spring ends are not parallel, the valve spring is bent. Replace the bent valve spring.
17. Using the J 9666 test the valve spring load. Replace the spring if the valve spring load is less than 334 N @ 43.69 mm (75 lb @ 1.72 in).
18. Inspect the valve spring seating surface of the valve spring retainers for wear or gouging. If the seating surface is damaged, replace the valve spring retainers.
19. Use the following procedure to measure the valve seat concentricity: 19.1. Lift the valve off its seat. 19.2. Apply a dab of blue dye to the valve face. 19.3. Seat and rotate the valve. The blue dye traces transferred to the valve seat are an indication of concentricity of the valve seat.
20. Use the following procedure to measure the valve runout: 20.1. Clean off the blue dye. 20.2. Apply blue dye to the valve seat. 20.3. Seat and rotate the valve. The traces of blue dye transferred to the valve indicates valve runout. 20.4. Recondition the valve seat or valve face, if needed.

Valve Guide Reaming/Valve & Seat Grinding

Tools Required: J 8001 Dial Indicator Set

Scheme 262

Scheme 263

Scheme 264

Scheme 265

Scheme 266

Scheme 267

1. Recondition the valve seats by grinding. Use an oscillating type valve seat grinder. Follow the grinder manufacturer's instructions. If the valve seat is too wide after grinding, use a 20 degree stone or a 70 degree stone in order to narrow the valve seat. The 20 degree stone will lower the seat. The 70 degree stone will raise the seat. Replace or recondition the valves if the seats are reconditioned.
2. After grinding the valves, measure the valve margin. Replace the valve if less than the minimum recommended specification (0.79 mm (0.031 in). NOTE: Clean the valve guides before reaming. Packing of chips or carbon may result in the reamer jamming into the valve guide or broken reamer flutes.
3. Clean any foreign material from the valves. Use a wire brush to remove carbon. Do not scratch the valve stem. Soak the valves in cleaning solvent to remove varnish.
4. Use a suitable tool to clean the valve guides.
5. Follow the grinder manufacturer's instructions. Ensure that the new surface is perpendicular to the valve stem.
6. Inspect the valve key grooves for chipped or worn lands (5). Replace the valve if the valve key groove is damaged.
7. Inspect the valve stem tip for wear (6). Recondition the valve stem tip by grinding.
8. Inspect the valve stem for burrs and scratches (4). Use an oil stone to remove burrs and minor scratches.
9. Inspect the valve stem for straightness (3). Use V blocks to inspect the valve head for bending or distortion. Replace any bent or distorted valves.
10. Inspect the valve face for grooving (1, 2). If the groove is so deep that refacing the valve face would result in a knife edge, replace the valve.
11. Inspect the valve face for burning, pitting, or cracking (1, 2, 3, 4). If pieces of the valve face are broken off, replace the valve and inspect the corresponding piston and cylinder head area for damage.
12. Measure the valve stem clearance: 12.1. Insert the valve into the guide. 12.2. Lift the valve 2 mm (1/8 in) off of the seat. 12.3. Move the valve from side to side. 12.4. Use J 8001 to measure the amount of movement. The intake valve stem clearance should be between 0.031-0.071 mm (0.0012-0.0028 in). The exhaust valve stem clearance should be between 0.036-0.074 mm (0.0014-0.0029 in). Important: Clean the valve guide before reaming to avoid breaking the reamer flutes. Do not push down on the reamer.
13. Ream the valve guides for oversize valves if the clearance exceeds the specifications.
14. Ream the valve guide bores for the oversize valves.
15. Recondition the valve seats after reaming the valve guide bores or installing the new valve guides.
16. Inspect the valve stem for straightness. Use V blocks to inspect the valve head for bending or distortion. Replace any bent or distorted valves. It is essential that the valve guide bores are free of carbon or dirt to ensure the proper centering of the pilot in the guide. The valve seats should be concentric to within 0.05 mm (0.031 in) total indicator reading. Reface pitted valves on a valve refacing machine to ensure the correct relationship between the valve head and the valve stem. Replace the valve if the valve stem is warped (2), or if the valve stem shows signs of excessive wear. Inspect the valve key area (1) for damage and carbon build up. Replace the valve if the edge of the head is less than 0.79 mm (0.031 in) thick after grinding. Use the manufacturer's recommendations of equipment for the proper results.

Cylinder Head Assemble

Tools Required

1. J 38606 Valve Spring Compressor
2. J 42863 Valve Seal Installer

Scheme 268

Scheme 269

Scheme 270

1. Install the valves. The valves are available in standard size and 0.381 mm (0.015 in) oversize. Use oversize valve seals if oversized valves are used.
2. Use the following procedure to measure the valve stem height: 2.1. Place the valve on the guide. Hold the valve in the closed position. 2.2. Use a valve stem height gauge to measure the valve stem height. 2.3. The measurement should be 49-50 mm (1.93-1.97 in). NOTE: Use hand pressure only when installing the valve seal using J 42863. Using to much force may cause damage to the oil seal and possibly lead to excessive oil consumption.
3. Use the following procedure to measure the valve spring installed height: 3.1. Place the valve in the valve guide. 3.2. Install the valve spring cap and the valve cap keys. 3.3. Seat the valve spring retainer by pulling up. 3.4. Use a steel machinists' rule to measure the distance from the spring seat to the bottom of the valve spring cap. 3.5. The measurement should be 42-44 mm (1.69-1.75 in). If the measurement is not within specifications add shims under the valve spring. Important: Use hand pressure only when installing the valve seal using J 42863 . Using to much force may cause damage to the oil seal and possibly lead to excessive oil consumption.
4. Place the valve stem oil seal over the valve stem so the seal begins to contact the valve guide.
5. Use J 42863 to push the valve stem oil seal over the valve guide.
6. Use J 38606 to install the valve spring and the valve cap.
7. Install the valve keys.

Scheme 271

1. Remove the oil pump cover screws.
2. Remove the oil pump cover.
3. Remove the oil pump gears.

Scheme 272

Scheme 273

Scheme 274

1. Use a suitable solvent to clean the oil pump.
2. Remove all old gasket material from the engine front cover and from the engine block.
3. Inspect the oil pump cover and the engine front cover for the following damage: Cracks. Scoring. Porous or damaged casting. Damaged threads. Excessive wear.
4. Inspect the pressure regulator valve for the following damage: Scoring. Sticking in the bore. Burrs. Foreign material.
5. Inspect the pressure regulator spring for loss of tension or bending. Replace the pressure regulator spring if damaged.
6. Inspect the oil pump gears for the following conditions: Chipping. Galling. Scoring. Excessive wear.
7. Measure the inner oil pump gear tip clearance. If the clearance for the inner oil pump gear tip is greater than 0.152 mm (0.006 in) the oil pump must be replaced.
8. Measure the outer oil pump gear diameter clearance. If the outer oil pump gear diameter clearance is greater than 0.381 mm (0.015 in) the oil pump must be replaced.
9. Measure the oil pump gear end clearance.
10. Measure the pressure regulator valve-to-bore clearance. If the pressure regulator valve-to-bore clearance is greater than 0.076 mm (0.003 in) the oil pump must be replaced.

Scheme 275

1. Clean the engine front cover mating surface.
2. Clean the engine front cover.
3. Inspect the engine front cover threaded holes.
4. Inspect the engine front cover for damage.
5. Inspect the engine front cover mating surfaces for nicks.
6. Repair or replace the engine front cover as necessary.

Scheme 276

1. Lubricate the oil pump gears with petroleum jelly.
2. Install the oil pump gears.
3. Pack the oil pump cavity with petroleum jelly.
4. Install the oil pump cover.
5. Install the oil pump cover screws. Tighten the screws to 11 N.m (98 Inch lbs).

Scheme 277

1. Clean the valve rocker arm cover mating surface.
2. Clean the valve rocker arm cover. Remove all the sludge and the oil deposits.
3. Inspect the valve rocker arm cover for damage. Replace the valve rocker arm cover if any damage is found.

Scheme 278

1. Clean the oil pan mating surface.
2. Clean the oil pan. Remove all the sludge and the oil deposits.
3. Inspect the threads for the oil level sensor and the engine oil drain plug.
4. Inspect the oil pan for distortion.
5. Repair or replace the oil pan as necessary.

Scheme 279

1. Clean the lower intake manifold to supercharger mating surfaces.
2. Clean the supercharger. A small amount of oil weepage from the front oil seal is normal. Dripping or puddling is not normal and the supercharger should be replaced.
3. Inspect the supercharger for damage.
4. Remove the supercharger oil plug (1).
5. Inspect the supercharger oil level. The oil level should reach the bottom of the threads in the inspection hole. The superchargers oiling system holds 8 oz. of GM P/N United States 12345982, GM P/N Canada 10953513 synthetic oil.
6. Install the supercharger oil plug (1). Tighten the supercharger oil plug to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
7. Clean the throttle body mating surface.
8. Inspect the supercharger pulley for damage.

Scheme 280

1. Clean the upper intake manifold mating surfaces.
2. Clean the upper intake manifold.
3. Inspect the upper intake manifold for damage.
4. Replace the upper intake manifold as necessary.

Scheme 281

1. Clean the lower intake manifold mating surfaces.
2. Clean the lower intake manifold.
3. Inspect the threaded holes for damage.
4. Inspect the lower intake manifold for damage or nicks in the mating surfaces.
5. Replace or repair the lower intake manifold as necessary.

Scheme 282

1. Clean the lower intake manifold mating surfaces.
2. Clean the lower intake manifold.
3. Inspect the threaded holes for damage.
4. Inspect the lower intake manifold for damage or nicks in the mating surfaces.
5. Replace or repair the lower intake manifold as necessary.

Scheme 283

Scheme 284

1. Clean the exhaust manifold mating surfaces.
2. Clean the exhaust manifold.
3. Inspect the exhaust manifold mating surfaces for damage.
4. Inspect the exhaust manifold flange for straightness, using a straight edge and a feeler gauge.
5. If the exhaust manifold flange is warped more than 0.05 mm (0.002 in) replace the exhaust manifold.

Scheme 285

1. Clean the water pump mating surface.
2. Clean the water pump.
3. Inspect the water pump shaft for looseness.
4. Inspect the water pump vanes for damage.
5. Inspect the water pump mating surfaces for nicks.
6. Repair or replace the water pump as necessary.

Scheme 286

1. Clean the balance shaft.
2. Inspect the balance shaft bearing/bushing journals for excessive wear.
3. Inspect the balance shaft driven gear and the balance shaft drive gear for nicks and burrs.
4. Inspect the balance shaft retainer for damage.
5. Inspect the balance shaft threads for damage.
6. Repair or replace the balance shaft components as necessary.

Thread Repair

General purpose thread repair kits are available commercially.

Important: Refer to the thread repair kit manufacturer's instructions regarding the size of the drill and which tap to use.

Always avoid any buildup of chips. Back out the tap every few turns and remove the chips.

Scheme 287

Scheme 288

1. Determine the size, the pitch, and the depth of the damaged thread.
2. Adjust the stop collars on the cutting tool as needed. Tap the stop collars to the required depth.
3. Drill out the damaged thread.
4. Remove the chips.
5. Apply clean engine oil to the top thread.
6. Use the tap in order to cut new thread.
7. Clean the thread.
8. Screw the thread insert onto the mandrel of the thread insert installer. Engage the tang of the thread insert onto the end of the mandrel. Important: The thread insert should be flush to 1 turn below the surface.
9. Lubricate the thread insert with clean engine oil-except when installing in aluminum - and install the thread insert.
10. If the tang of the thread insert does not break off when backing out the thread insert installer, break off the tang using a drift punch.

Service Prior To Assembly

Dirt will cause premature wear of the rebuilt engine. Clean all of the components. Use the proper tools in order to measure components when inspecting for excessive wear. Repair or replace the components that are not within the manufacturers specification. When components are reinstalled into an engine, return the components to their original location, position, and direction. During assembly, lubricate all of the moving parts with clean engine oil or engine assembly lubricant unless otherwise specified. This will provide initial lubrication when the engine is first started.

Balance Shaft Bearing And/Or Bushing Installation

Tools Required

1. J 21465-13 Drive Handle Extension
2. J 36995 Balance Shaft Bearing Remover/Installer

Scheme 289

Scheme 290

1. Dip the balance shaft bushing in clean engine oil. Important: The J 36995 installs the balance shaft bushing to the correct depth. The balance shaft bushing is properly installed when J 36995 fully contacts the balance shaft bore or the engine block/transaxle mounting flange.
2. Use the balance shaft bushing installers to install the balance shaft bushing.
3. Remove J 36995.
4. Dip the balance shaft bearing into clean engine oil.
5. Use J 21465-13 and J 36995 to install the balance shaft bearing into the engine block.

Camshaft Bearing Installation

Tools Required: J 33049 Camshaft Bearing Remover/Installer

Scheme 291

Scheme 292

1. Select the camshaft bearings.
2. Use the following procedure to install the camshaft bearings: 2.1. Assemble J 33049 according to the manufacturer's instructions. 2.2. Place the bearing on the tool. NOTE: Severe engine damage may result if the oil holes are not correctly aligned. 2.3. Index the bearing oil holes with the engine block oil passages.

Scheme 293

Scheme 294

1. Install the threaded oil gallery plugs. Tighten the oil gallery plugs to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).
2. Install the remaining oil gallery plugs using GM P/N United States 12346004, GM P/N Canada 10953480 or the equivalent.

Crankshaft & Bearings Installation

Tools Required: J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter

Scheme 295

Scheme 296

1. Install the upper crankshaft main bearings.
2. Install the crankshaft. Lubricate the crankshaft to crankshaft main bearing contact areas with engine oil or engine assembly lubricant. NOTE: In order to prevent the possibility of cylinder block or crankshaft bearing cap damage, the crankshaft bearing caps are tapped into the cylinder block cavity using a brass, lead, or a leather mallet before the attaching bolts are installed. Do not use attaching bolts to pull the crankshaft bearing caps into the seats. Failure to use this process may damage a cylinder block or a bearing cap.
3. Install the lower crankshaft main bearings into the main bearing caps.
4. Install the crankshaft main bearing cap bolts. Start the crankshaft main bearing cap bolts by hand. Ensure the bottom of the crankshaft main bearing cap is parallel to the bottom of the channel. Tighten the crankshaft main bearing cap bolts in equal increments. Do not completely tighten one bolt at a time to prevent the cap from being cocked. Tighten the bolts to 70 N.m (52 Ft lbs) to fully seat the crankshaft main bearing caps. Loosen the bolts 360 degrees counterclockwise. Tighten the bolts to 20 N.m (15 Ft lbs), then 40 N.m (30 Ft lbs). Use J 36660-A to tighten the bolts in steps: 35 degrees + 35 degrees + 40 degrees for a total of 110 degrees.
5. Install the side main bolts. Apply GM P/N United States 12345493, GM P/N Canada 10953488 or the equivalent to the side main bolts. Tighten the side crankshaft main bearing cap bolts to 15 N.m (11 Ft lbs). Use J 36660-A to tighten the bolts an additional 45 degrees.

Piston, Connecting Rod & Bearing Installation

Tools Required

1. J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter
2. J 8037 Piston Ring Compressor
3. J 41507 Connecting Rod Guide Assembly

Scheme 297

Scheme 298

Scheme 299

1. Position the crankshaft so the connecting rod journal is opposite the piston and connecting rod assembly being installed. This will aid in the installation of the connecting rod assembly.
2. Lubricate the cylinder wall with engine oil.
3. Install the connecting rod bearing inserts.
4. Lubricate the connecting rod bearing insert surface with engine oil.
5. Install J 41507 to the connecting rod. Hand tighten the tool to the connecting rod.
6. Install J 8037 to the piston. NOTE: Guide the lower connecting rod end carefully to avoid damaging the crankshaft journal.
7. Use J 8037 to compress the piston rings for installation of the piston and connecting rod assembly.
8. Install the piston and connecting rod assembly into the engine. Important: Ensure the arrow on top of the piston or the markings made during removal face towards the front of the engine or are in the same location as when removed.
9. Use J 41507 to pull the connecting rod into place.
10. Remove J 41507 .
11. Install the connecting rod bearing cap.
12. Install the connecting rod bearing cap bolts. Tighten the connecting rod bearing cap bolts to 27 N.m (20 Ft lbs) + 50 degrees using J 36660-A.
13. Pry the connecting rod back and forth and check for binding. If necessary loosen and retighten the connecting rod bearing cap.
14. Measure the connecting rod side clearance.

Scheme 300

1. Install the oil pump pipe and screen assembly gasket. Important: The oil pan gasket must be installed before the oil pump pipe and screen assembly.
2. Install the oil pan gasket.
3. Install the oil pump pipe and screen assembly.
4. Install the oil pump pipe and screen assembly bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15 N.m (11 Ft lbs).

Scheme 301

Scheme 302

1. Install the oil pan gasket to the oil pan flange.
2. Install the oil pan.
3. Clean the oil pan bolts.
4. Apply one drop of GM P/N United States 12345382, GM P/N Canada 10953489 to each bolt.
5. Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts to 14 N.m (125 Inch lbs). NOTE: Install the oil level sensor, located in the oil pan, after the oil pan is installed. The sensor may be damaged if the oil level sensor is installed first.
6. Install the oil level sensor. Tighten the oil level sensor to 20 N.m (15 Ft lbs).

Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal & Housing Installation

Tools Required

1. J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter
2. J 41349 Rear Cover Alignment Tool

Scheme 303

Scheme 304

1. Clean the gasket from the crankshaft rear oil seat housing.
2. Clean the crankshaft rear oil seal housing.
3. Inspect the crankshaft rear oil seal housing for damage. NOTE: Do not use a sealant or adhesive when installing this component. Use of a sealant or adhesive can cause improper sealing. A component that is not sealed properly can leak leading to extensive engine damage.
4. Install the crankshaft rear oil seal housing gasket over the bolts for alignment. Important: The plastic inserts in the crankshaft rear oil seal housing are used to aid assembly only. The inserts are not required for service.
5. Install the crankshaft rear oil seal housing. Hand tighten the crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts. NOTE: Sealability of the rear main oil seal depends on the correct alignment of the rear main oil seal housing and the oil pan. Incorrect alignment may cause oil leaks.
6. Apply engine oil to both sides of J 41349.
7. Install J 41349 over the crankshaft. Twist the tool to aid in sliding the tool over the crankshaft.
8. Place a straight edge on the engine block oil pan flange and the crankshaft rear oil seal housing flange. Use a feeler gage to ensure there is no more than 0.10 mm (0.004 in) step on each side. Rotate the crankshaft rear oil seal housing to make the step equal on each side. Replace the crankshaft rear oil seal housing if the rotation does not make the step equal.
9. Tighten the crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts. Tighten the crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts to 15 N.m (11 Ft lbs). Use J 36660-A to tighten the bolts an additional 50 degrees.
10. Remove J 41349.
11. Recheck the step height on each side to ensure the crankshaft rear oil seal housing did not move. If the step height is beyond specification, reinstall the crankshaft rear oil seal housing and measure the step again. Replace the crankshaft rear oil seal housing if the clearance is still beyond specification.

Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation

Tools Required: J 38196 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer

Scheme 305

Scheme 306

1. Apply engine oil to the inside diameter and the outside diameter of the crankshaft rear oil seal.
2. Slide the crankshaft rear oil seal over the mandrel until the back bottoms squarely against the collar of the tool.
3. Use the following procedure to install the seal: 3.1. Attach J 38196 to the crankshaft by hand or tighten attaching screws to 5 N.m (54 Inch lbs). 3.2. Turn the T handle of J 38196 so the collar pushes the crankshaft rear oil seal into the bore. Turn the handle until the tool is bottomed out. Ensure the crankshaft rear oil seal is seated properly. 3.3. Loosen the T handle of J 38196 until it comes to a stop. 3.4. Remove the attaching screws.

Scheme 307

1. Coat the camshaft with prelube GM P/N United States 12345501,GM P/N Canada 992704 or the equivalent.
2. Install the camshaft.
3. Install the camshaft thrust plate.
4. Install the camshaft thrust plate bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15 N.m (11 Ft lbs).

Balance Shaft Installation

Tools Required

1. J 8001 Dial Indicator Set
2. J 21465-13 Drive Handle Extension
3. J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter
4. J 36996 Balance Shaft Installer

Scheme 308

Scheme 309

Scheme 310

Scheme 311

Scheme 312

Scheme 313

1. Use J 21465-13 and J 36996 to install the balance shaft into the engine block.
2. Install the balance shaft retainer.
3. Install the balance shaft retainer bolts. Tighten the balance shaft retainer bolts to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).
4. Install the balance shaft driven gear.
5. Install the balance shaft driven gear bolt. Tighten the balance shaft driven gear bolt to 22 N.m (16 Ft lbs). Use J36660-A to tighten the bolt an additional 70 degrees.
6. Using J 8001 measure the balance shaft end play. End play must not exceed 0.028 mm (0.008 in).
7. Using J 8001 measure the balance shaft radial play at the rear. Radial play must be between 0.0127-0.119 mm (0.0005-0.0047 in).
8. Install the balance shaft drive gear.
9. Install the camshaft sprocket.
10. Turn the camshaft so the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket is straight down.
11. Remove the camshaft sprocket and balance shaft drive gear.
12. Turn the balance shaft so the timing mark on the balance shaft driven gear points straight down.
13. Partially install the balance shaft drive gear so the gear teeth are not engaged.
14. Align the marks on the balance shaft driven gear and the balance shaft drive gear. Do this by turning the balance shaft.
15. Once marks are aligned, fully seat balance shaft drive gear and engage gear teeth.
16. Turn the crankshaft so the number one piston is at top dead center.
17. Install the timing chain and camshaft sprocket.
18. Using J 8001 measure the gear lash at four places. Measure every quarter turn. Gear lash must be between 0.050-0.127 mm (0.002-0.005 in).

Timing Chain & Sprockets Installation (L36)

Tool Required: J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter

Scheme 314

Scheme 315

Scheme 316

1. Install the crankshaft balancer key into the crankshaft keyway. The crankshaft balancer key should be parallel to the crankshaft or with a slight incline.
2. Install the timing chain on the sprockets. Align the timing marks.
3. Install the timing chain, the crankshaft sprocket, and the camshaft sprocket.
4. Install the camshaft sprocket bolt. Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 100 N.m (74 Ft lbs). Use J 36660-A to tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt an additional 90 degrees.
5. Install the timing chain dampener. Tighten the timing chain dampener bolt to 22 N.m (16 Ft lbs).

Timing Chain & Sprockets Installation (L67)

Tools Required: J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter

Scheme 317

Scheme 318

1. Install the crankshaft balancer key into the crankshaft keyway. The crankshaft balancer key should be parallel to the crankshaft or with a slight incline.
2. Install the timing chain on the sprockets. Align the timing marks.
3. Install the timing chain, the crankshaft sprocket, and the camshaft sprocket.
4. Install the camshaft sprocket bolt. Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 100 N.m (74 Ft lbs). Use J 36660-A to tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt an additional 90 degrees.
5. Install the timing chain dampener. Tighten the timing chain dampener bolt to 22 N.m (16 Ft lbs).

Oil Filter Adapter Installation

Tools Required: J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter

1. Install the oil pressure relief valve spring into the engine front cover.
2. Install the oil pressure relief valve into the engine front cover.
3. Install a new oil filter adapter gasket.
4. Install the oil filter adapter.
5. Install the oil filter adapter bolts. Tighten the oil filter adapter bolts to 15 N.m (11 Ft lbs). Using J 36660-A rotate each bolt an additional 50 degrees.
6. Install the oil filter. Tighten the oil filter to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).

Engine Front Cover Installation

Tools Required: J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter

Scheme 319

Scheme 320

Scheme 321

Scheme 322

1. Install the engine front cover gasket.
2. Install the engine front cover. Align the cogs on the crankshaft sprocket with the cogs on the oil pump in the engine front cover.
3. Apply sealant GM P/N United States 12346004, GM P/N Canada 10953480 or the equivalent to the engine front cover bolt threads.
4. Install the engine front cover bolts. Tighten the engine front cover bolts to 20 N.m (15 Ft lbs). Use the J 36660-A to tighten the engine front cover bolts an additional 40 degrees.
5. Install the oil pan to engine front cover bolts. Tighten the oil pan bolts to 14 N.m (125 Inch lbs).
6. Install the oil filter. Tighten the oil filter to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).
7. Install the crankshaft position sensor. Tighten the crankshaft position sensor studs to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).
8. Install the crankshaft position sensor shield.

Crankshaft Front Oil Seal Installation

Tools Required: J 35354 Seal Installer

Scheme 323

1. Coat the inside diameter of the crankshaft front oil seal with lubricant GM P/N United States 12345616, GM P/N Canada 993182 or the equivalent.
2. Use J 35354 and a soft faced hammer to install the crankshaft front oil seal.
3. Remove J 35354.

Scheme 324

1. Dip the valve lifters in prelube GM P/N United States 12345501, GM P/N Canada 992704 or the equivalent.
2. Install the valve lifters.
3. Install the valve lifter guides.
4. Install the valve lifter guide bolts. Tighten the valve lifter guide bolts to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).

Cylinder Head Installation - Right

Tools Required: J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter

Scheme 325

Scheme 326

1. Install the cylinder head gasket. Ensure the arrows point towards the front of the engine. The right cylinder head gasket has the letter R stamped next to the arrow.
2. Install the cylinder head.
3. Install new cylinder head bolts. Tighten the cylinder head bolts to 50 N.m (37 Ft lbs) in sequence. Using J 36660-A rotate each cylinder head bolt an additional 120 degrees.

Cylinder Head Installation - Left

Tools Required: J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter

Scheme 327

Scheme 328

1. Install the cylinder head gasket. Ensure the arrows point towards the front of the engine. The left cylinder head gasket has the letter L stamped next to the arrow.
2. Install the cylinder head.
3. Install new cylinder head bolts. Tighten the cylinder head bolts to 50 N.m (37 Ft lbs) in sequence. Using J 36660-A rotate each cylinder head bolt an additional 120 degrees.

Valve Rocker Arm & Push Rod Installation

Tools Required: J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter

Scheme 329

1. Install the pushrod guide plate.
2. Install the push rods.
3. Install the valve rocker arm bearing retainer.
4. Coat the valve stem tip and pushrod tip with prelube GM P/N United States 1052367, GM P/N Canada 992869 or the equivalent.
5. Install the valve rocker arms.
6. Apply GM P/N United States 12345493, GM P/N Canada 10953488 threadlock or the equivalent to the valve rocker arm bolt threads.
7. Install the valve rocker arm bolts. Tighten the valve rocker arm bolts to 15 N.m (11 Ft lbs) + 90 degrees using J 36660-A .

Scheme 330

1. Install the valve rocker arm cover.
2. Apply GM P/N United States 12345382, GM P/N Canada 10953489 threadlock or the equivalent to the threads.
3. Install the valve rocker arm cover bolts. Tighten the valve rocker arm cover bolts to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).

Scheme 331

1. Install the valve rocker arm cover.
2. Apply GM P/N United States 12345382, GM P/N Canada 10953489 threadlock or the equivalent to threads.
3. Install the valve rocker arm cover bolts. Tighten the valve rocker arm cover bolts to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).

Scheme 332

Scheme 333

Scheme 334

Scheme 335

Scheme 336

Scheme 337

Scheme 338

Scheme 339

1. Install the exhaust manifold studs. Tighten the exhaust manifold studs to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
2. Install the exhaust manifold gasket.
3. Install the exhaust manifold.
4. Install the exhaust manifold bolts and nuts. Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts and nuts to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).
5. Install the right side spark plugs. Tighten the spark plugs to 27 N.m (20 Ft lbs) when installing the spark plugs in to a new cylinder head. Tighten the spark plugs to 15 N.m (13 Ft lbs) when re-installing the spark plugs after initial installation.
6. Install the lower right exhaust manifold heat shield.
7. Install the upper right exhaust manifold heat shield.
8. Install the fuel injector sight shield cover bracket.
9. Install the fuel injector sight shield cover bracket nuts. Tighten the fuel injector sight shield bracket nuts to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).
10. Install the right engine lift hook.
11. Install the right engine lift hook nut and bolt. Tighten the right engine lift hook nut and bolt to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).
12. Coat the threads of the heated oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound.
13. Install the heated oxygen sensor. Tighten the heated oxygen sensor to 42 N.m (31 Ft lbs).
14. Install the heated oxygen sensor lead. Important: Inspect the EGR outlet pipe for leaks during installation. If leaks are present, replace the EGR adapter assembly.
15. Install the EGR valve adapter to cylinder head.
16. Install the EGR valve adapter to cylinder head bolts. Tighten the EGR valve adapter to cylinder head bolts to 50 N.m (37 Ft lbs).
17. Install the EGR inlet pipe to the exhaust manifold.
18. Install the EGR inlet pipe bolt. Tighten the EGR inlet pipe bolt to 29 N.m (21 Ft lbs).
19. Install the EGR outlet pipe to EGR valve adapter.
20. Install the EGR outlet pipe to EGR valve adapter nut. Tighten the EGR inlet pipe bolt to 29 N.m (21 Ft lbs).

Scheme 340

Scheme 341

Scheme 342

Scheme 343

1. Install the exhaust manifold studs. Tighten the exhaust manifold studs to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
2. Install the exhaust manifold gasket.
3. Install the exhaust manifold.
4. Install the exhaust manifold bolts and nuts. Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts and nuts to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).
5. Install the right side spark plugs. Tighten the spark plugs to 27 N.m (20 Ft lbs) when installing the spark plugs in to a new cylinder head. Tighten the spark plugs to 15 N.m (13 Ft lbs) when re-installing the spark plugs after initial installation.
6. Install the lower right exhaust manifold heat shield.
7. Install the upper right exhaust manifold heat shield.
8. Install the right engine lift hook.
9. Install the right engine lift hook nut and bolt. Tighten the right engine lift hook nut and bolt to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).
10. Install the fuel injector sight shield cover bracket.
11. Install the fuel injector sight shield cover bracket nuts. Tighten the fuel injector sight shield cover bracket nuts to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).
12. Install the air injection check valve.
13. Install the air injection check valve bolts. Tighten the air injection check valve bolt (1) to 25 N.m (18 Ft lbs). Tighten the air injection check valve bolts (2) to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
14. Install the vacuum solenoid and vacuum lines.
15. Install the vacuum solenoid bolt. Tighten the vacuum solenoid bolt to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
16. Coat the threads of the heated oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound.
17. Install the heated oxygen sensor. Tighten the heated oxygen sensor to 42 N.m (31 Ft lbs).
18. Install the heated oxygen sensor lead.
19. Install the air injection pipe.
20. Install the air injection pipe assembly nuts. Tighten the air injection pipe assembly nuts to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs). Important: Inspect the EGR outlet pipe for leaks during installation. If leaks are present, replace the EGR adapter assembly.
21. Install the EGR valve adapter to cylinder head.
22. Install the EGR valve adapter to cylinder head bolts. Tighten the EGR valve adapter to cylinder head bolts to 50 N.m (37 Ft lbs).
23. Install the EGR inlet pipe to the exhaust manifold.
24. Install the EGR inlet pipe bolt. Tighten the EGR inlet pipe bolt to 29 N.m (21 Ft lbs).
25. Install the EGR outlet pipe to EGR valve adapter.
26. Install the EGR outlet pipe to EGR valve adapter nut. Tighten the EGR outlet pipe to EGR valve adapter nut to 29 N.m (21 Ft lbs).

Scheme 344

Scheme 345

Scheme 346

Scheme 347

1. Install the exhaust manifold studs. Tighten the exhaust manifold studs to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
2. Install the exhaust manifold gasket.
3. Install the exhaust manifold.
4. Install the exhaust manifold bolts and nuts. Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts and nuts to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).
5. Install the left side spark plugs. Tighten the spark plugs to 27 N.m (20 Ft lbs) when installing the spark plugs in to a new cylinder head. Tighten the spark plugs to 15 N.m (13 Ft lbs) when re-installing the spark plugs after initial installation.
6. Install the left engine lift hook.
7. Install the left engine lift hook nut and bolt. Tighten the left engine lift hook nut and bolt to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).
8. Install the left exhaust manifold heat shield.
9. Install the left exhaust manifold heat shield nuts. Tighten the left exhaust manifold heat shield nuts to 20 N.m (15 Ft lbs).

Scheme 348

Scheme 349

1. Install the lower intake manifold gasket.
2. Install the lower intake manifold.
3. Apply threadlock 272 GM P/N United States 12345493, GM P/N Canada 10953488 or the equivalent to the bolt threads.
4. Install the lower intake manifold bolts. Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts in sequence to 15 N.m (11 Ft lbs).
5. Install the EGR outlet pipe to the intake manifold.
6. Install the EGR outlet pipe bolt. Tighten the EGR outlet pipe bolt to 29 N.m (21 Ft lbs).

Scheme 350

Scheme 351

Scheme 352

1. Install the lower intake manifold gasket.
2. Install the lower intake manifold.
3. Apply Threadlock 272 GM P/N United States 12345493, GM P/N Canada 10953488 to the bolt threads.
4. Install the lower intake manifold bolts including the two hidden bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence to 15 N.m (11 Ft lbs).
5. Install the EGR outlet pipe to the intake manifold.
6. Install the EGR outlet pipe bolt. Tighten the EGR outlet pipe bolt to 29 N.m (21 Ft lbs).

Scheme 353

Scheme 354

Scheme 355

Scheme 356

Scheme 357

Scheme 358

Scheme 359

1. Install the upper intake manifold gasket.
2. Install the upper intake manifold.
3. Install the upper intake manifold bolts. Tighten the upper intake manifold bolts in sequence to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
4. Install the throttle body gasket.
5. Install the throttle body.
6. Install the throttle body nuts. Tighten the throttle body nuts to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
7. Install the engine wiring harness heat shield.
8. Install the engine wiring harness heat shield bolt and nut. Tighten the engine wiring harness heat shield bolt and nut to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
9. Install the accelerator control cable bracket.
10. Install the accelerator control cable bracket bolts. Tighten the accelerator control cable bracket bolts to 16 N.m (12 Ft lbs).
11. Install the fuel injector rail.
12. Install the fuel injector rail nuts. Tighten the fuel injector rail nuts to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
13. Install the ignition control module assembly.
14. Install the ignition control module assembly bracket nuts. Tighten the ignition control module assembly bracket nuts to 50 N.m (37 Ft lbs).
15. Connect the ignition control module connector to the ignition control module assembly.
16. Connect the ignition wires to the fuel injector rail.
17. Install the spark plug wires.

Scheme 360

Scheme 361

Scheme 362

Scheme 363

1. Install the supercharger gasket.
2. Install the supercharger.
3. Install the spacers, bolts, and stud to the supercharger in the proper locations. Tighten the stud/bolts to 23 N.m (17 Ft lbs).
4. Install the throttle body and gasket.
5. Install the throttle body nuts. Tighten the throttle body nuts to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
6. Install the engine wiring harness heat shield.
7. Install the engine wiring harness heat shield bolt and nut. Tighten the engine wiring harness heat shield bolt and nut to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
8. Install the MAP sensor bracket.
9. Install the MAP sensor bracket bolts. Tighten the MAP sensor bracket bolts to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).
10. Install the vacuum block.
11. Install the vacuum block bolts. Tighten the vacuum block bolts to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
12. Install the boost solenoid.
13. Install the boost solenoid bolts. Tighten the boost solenoid bolts to 26 N.m (19 Ft lbs).
14. Install the regulator valve and harness bolt.
15. Install the booster bypass.
16. Install the booster bypass nut. Tighten the booster bypass nut to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
17. Install the fuel rail.
18. Install the fuel rail nuts and stud. Tighten the fuel rail nuts and stud to 10 N.m (89 Inch lbs).
19. Install the vacuum line to the fuel rail.
20. Install the spark plug wires.

Scheme 364

Scheme 365

1. Install the water pump gasket.
2. Install the water pump.
3. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the small water pump bolts to 22 N.m (16 Ft lbs). Tighten the large water pump bolts to 34 N.m (25 Ft lbs).
4. Install the water pump pulley.
5. Install the water pump pulley bolts. Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 13 N.m (116 Inch lbs).

Scheme 366

1. Install the thermostat.
2. Install the water outlet.
3. Install the water outlet bolts. Tighten the water outlet bolts to 27 N.m (20 Ft lbs).

Scheme 367

1. Install the thermostat.
2. Install the water outlet.
3. Install the water outlet bolts. Tighten the water outlet bolts to 27 N.m (20 Ft lbs).

Oil Level Indicator & Tube Installation

1. Install the oil level indicator tube. Lubricate the O-ring with engine oil and make sure it is in place. Make sure the assembly is fully seated in the engine block.
2. Install the oil level indicator tube nut. Tighten the nut to 20 N.m (15 Ft lbs).

Scheme 368

1. Install the drive belt idler pulley bracket.
2. Install the drive belt idler pulley bracket bolts. Tighten the drive belt idler pulley bracket bolts to 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).

Scheme 369

1. Install the drive belt idler pulley.
2. Install the drive belt idler pulley bolt. Tighten the drive belt idler pulley bolt to 50 N.m (37 Ft lbs).

Scheme 370

1. Install the drive belt tensioner bracket.
2. Install the drive belt tensioner bracket bolts. Tighten the drive belt tensioner bolts to 50 N.m (37 Ft lbs).

Scheme 371

1. Install the drive belt tensioner bracket.
2. Install the drive belt tensioner bracket nuts. Tighten the drive belt tensioner nuts to 50 N.m (37 Ft lbs).

Scheme 372

1. Install the drive belt tensioner.
2. Install the drive belt tensioner nut. Tighten the nut to 50 N.m (37 Ft lbs).

Engine Flywheel Installation (Automatic Transmission)

Tools Required: J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter

Scheme 373

1. Install the flywheel.
2. Install the new flywheel bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15 N.m (11 Ft lbs). Use the J 36660-A to tighten the bolts an additional 50 degrees.

Engine Flywheel Installation (Manual Transmission)

Tools Required: J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter

Scheme 374

1. Install the flywheel.
2. Install the new flywheel bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15 N.m (11 Ft lbs). Use J 36660-A to tighten the bolts an additional 50 degrees.

Crankshaft Balancer Installation

Tools Required

1. J 37096 Flywheel Holding Tool
2. J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter

Scheme 375

Scheme 376

1. Lubricate the seal surface of the crankshaft balancer with engine oil.
2. Install the crankshaft balancer.
3. Use J 37096 to hold the flywheel. NOTE: Properly align the crankshaft balancer keyway with the crankshaft key before installation. Damage can occur to the crankshaft balancer, the crankshaft, or the installation tool if the components are not properly aligned.
4. Install the crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt to 150 N.m (111 Ft lbs). Use J 36660-A to tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt an additional 76 degrees.

Engine Construction

Starting at the front of the engine, the cylinders of the left bank are numbered 1-3-5 and the cylinders of the right bank are numbered 2-4-6. The crankshaft is supported in the engine block by four bearings. The crankshaft is counterbalanced by the flywheel, the crankshaft balancer, and the weights cast into the crankshaft. Additional counterbalancing is obtained from the balance shaft which rides in the engine block above the camshaft and is driven by the camshaft. All 3800 engines are even-firing, the cylinders fire at equal 120 degree intervals of crankshaft rotation. The location of the crankshaft journals has been offset by 30 degrees to fire the cylinders at 120 degree intervals of crankshaft rotation. The camshaft lobes and timing also reflect the 120 degree intervals. The even firing crankshaft provides an equal interval of 120 degrees between ignition of each of the cylinders throughout the firing order. The firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2. The aluminum alloy pistons have slipper skirts and are cam turned. Four drilled holes or casted slots in the oil ring grooves permit drain back of the oil collected by the oil ring. The camshaft is supported by four bearings in the engine block and is driven by the crankshaft through sprockets and a timing chain. The cylinder heads are cast iron and incorporate integral valve stem guides. Right and left cylinder heads are identical and are interchangeable, but it is good practice to reinstall the cylinder heads on the side from which they are removed. The intake manifold is bolted to the inner faces of both cylinder heads so it connects with all inlet ports.

Each exhaust and intake valve has a valve spring to insure positive seating throughout the operating speed range. The valve rocker arms for each bank of the cylinders pivot on pedestals bolted to the cylinder head. Hydraulic roller valve lifters and tubular push rods are used to operate overhead rocker arms and valves of both banks of the cylinders from a single camshaft. This system requires no lash adjustment at the time of assembly or service.

In addition to its normal function of a cam follower, each valve lifter also serves as an automatic adjuster which maintains zero lash in the valve train under all operating conditions. By eliminating all lash in the valve train and also providing a cushion of oil to absorb operating shocks, the valve lifter promotes quiet valve operation. It also eliminates the need for periodic valve adjustment to compensate for wear of parts. Oil is supplied to the valve lifter through a hole in the side of the valve lifter body which indexes with a groove and a hole in the valve lifter plunger. Oil is then metered past the oil metering valve in the valve lifter, through the push rods to the valve rocker arms. When the valve lifter begins to move up the camshaft lobe, the check ball is held against its seat in the plunger by the check ball spring which traps the oil in the base of the valve lifter body below the plunger.

The plunger and the valve lifter body then raise as a unit, pushing up the push rod to open the valve. The force of the valve spring which is exerted on the plunger through the valve rocker arm and push rod, causes a slight amount of leakage between the plunger and the valve lifter body. This leakage allows a slow escape of trapped oil in the base of the valve lifter body. As the valve lifter rolls down the other side of the camshaft lobe and reaches the base circle or valve closed position, the plunger spring quickly moves the plunger back (up) to its original position. This movement causes the check ball to open against the ball spring, and any oil inside the plunger is drawn into the base of the valve lifter. This restores the valve lifter to the zero lash.

Description

The supercharger is a positive displacement pump that consists of two counter-rotating rotors in a housing with an inlet port and an outlet port. The rotors are designed with three lobes and a helical twist. An air bypass circuit is built into the housing. The rotors in the supercharger are designed to run at a minimal clearance, not in contact with each other or the housing. The rotors are timed to each other by a pair of precision spur gears which are pressed onto the rotor shafts. The forward end of the rotors are held in position by deep-groove ball bearings. The back end of the rotors are supported by sealed roller bearings.

The gears and ball bearings are lubricated by synthetic oil. The oil reservoir is self-contained in the supercharger and does not rely on engine oil for lubrication.

The cover on the supercharger contains the input shaft which is supported by two, deep-groove ball bearings and is coupled to the rotor drive gears. The pulley is pressed and keyed onto the input shaft. These bearings are lubricated by the synthetic oil contained in the same reservoir as the gears and rotor bearings.

Operation

The supercharger is designed to pump more air than the engine would normally use. This excess air creates a boost pressure in the intake manifold. Maximum boost can range from 48 to 63 kPa (7 to 9 psi). Because the supercharger is a positive displacement pump and is directly driven from the engine drive belt system, boost pressure is available at all driving conditions.

When boost is not desired, such as during idle and light throttle cruising, the excess air that the supercharger is producing is routed through the bypass passage between the intake manifold and the supercharger inlet. This bypass circuit is regulated by a bypass valve which is similar to a throttle plate. The bypass valve is controlled by a vacuum actuator which is connected to the vacuum signal between the throttle and the supercharger inlet. Spring force from the actuator holds the valve closed to create boost, and vacuum pulls the valve open when the throttle closes to decrease boost. The open bypass valve reduces pumping loss thereby increasing fuel efficiency.

The solenoid valve attached to the bypass actuator is an electronically controlled, three-way valve. This valve, controlled by the PCM, determines whether pressure from the manifold is routed to the bypass actuator or closed off. The valve allows pressure from the manifold to open the bypass valve and regulate boost pressure during specific driving conditions.

New Product Information

The purpose of New Product Information is to highlight or indicate important product changes from the previous model year.

Changes may include one or more of the following items

1. A component comparison from the previous year.
2. Fastener changes.
3. Torque values and/or fastener tightening strategies.
4. Changed engine specifications.
5. New sealants and/or adhesives.
6. Disassembly and assembly procedure revisions.
7. Engine mechanical diagnostic procedure revisions.
8. New special tools required.

Component Comparison

New fuel injectors.

Fastener Changes

No fastener changes from 2001.

Torque Values And/Or Fastener Tightening Strategies

1. Oil filter adapter bolt torque 30 N.m (22 Ft lbs).
2. Water pump bolt torque change are large bolts 34 N.m (25 Ft lbs), small bolts 22 N.m (16 Ft lbs)

Changed Engine Specifications

1. Camshaft exhaust maximum lobe lift changed to 6.56 mm (0.258 in).
2. Valve face angle changed to 46 degrees.
3. Valve stem clearance changes: Intake - 0.031-0.071 mm (0.002-0.0028 in). Exhaust - 0.036-0.074 mm (0.0014-0.0029 in).

New Sealants And/Or Adhesives

No changes from 2001.

Disassembly & Assembly Procedure Revisions

1. Balance shaft installation.
2. Crankshaft and bearing installation.
3. Crankshaft rear oil seal and oil housing removal.
4. Timing chain and sprocket installation for L67.
5. Valve guide reaming/valve and seat grinding.

Engine Mechanical Diagnostic Procedure Revisions

No engine mechanical diagnostic changes from 2001.

New Special Tools Required

No special tool changes from 2001.

Scheme 377

The engine lubrication system is of the force-feed type. The oil is supplied under full pressure to the crankshaft, connecting rods, valve lifters, camshaft, and rear balance shaft bearing. A controlled volume of oil is supplied to the valve rocker arms and push rods. All other moving parts are lubricated by gravity flow or splash. The engine oil is stored in the lower crankcase (oil pan) which is filled through a filler opening in the valve rocker arm cover. A removable oil level indicator, on the left side of the engine block, is provided to check the oil level. The oil pump is located in the engine front cover and is driven by the crankshaft. It is a gerotor-style pump which is a combination of a gear and a rotor pump. It is connected by a passage in the cylinder block to an oil screen and pipe assembly. The screen is submerged in the oil supply and has ample volume for all operating conditions. If the screen becomes clogged, oil may be drawn into the system through the oil pressure relief valve in the oil filter adapter. Oil is drawn into the pump through the screen and pipe assembly, and a passage in the crankcase, connecting to the passages in the engine front cover. Oil is discharged from the oil pump to the oil filter adapter.

The oil filter adapter consists of an oil filter bypass valve and a nipple for installation of an oil filter. The spring-loaded oil pressure relief valve, located in the engine front cover, limits the oil pressure. The oil filter bypass valve opens when the oil filter is restricted to approximately 68.95 kPa (10 psi) of pressure difference between the oil filter inlet and discharge. The oil will then bypass the oil filter and channel unfiltered oil directly to the main oil galleries of the engine. A full-flow oil filter is externally mounted to the oil filter adapter on the lower right front side of the engine. If the filter element becomes restricted, not allowing engine oil to pass through, a spring-loaded bypass valve opens. The main oil galleries run the full length of the engine block and cut into the valve lifter guide holes to supply oil at full pressure to the valve lifters. Holes, drilled from the crankshaft bearings to the main oil gallery, intersect the camshaft bearing bores to supply oil to the cam bearings.

Oil is transferred from the crankshaft bearings to the connecting rod bearings through holes drilled in the crankshaft. Pistons, piston pins, and cylinder walls are lubricated by oil splash from the crankshaft and connecting rods.

Each valve rocker arm and valve is supplied with oil through the tubular push rod. The oil comes from the inside of the valve lifter passing around the metering valve and through a hole in the push rod seat. Oil from the push rod passes through a hole in the push rod seat, and emerges on top of the push rod seat boss.

Cleanliness & Care

An automobile engine is a combination of many of the following surfaces

1. Machined.
2. Honed.
3. Polished.
4. Lapped.

The tolerances of these surfaces are measured in the ten-thousandths of an inch. When you service any internal engine part, cleanliness and care are important. Apply a liberal coating of engine oil to the friction areas during assembly in order to protect and lubricate the surfaces on initial operation. Throughout this section, practice proper cleaning and protection procedures to the machined surfaces and to the friction areas.

Note. Engine damage may result if an abrasive paper, pad, or motorized wire brush is used to clean any engine gasket surfaces.

Whenever you remove the valve train components, keep the components in order. Follow this procedure in order to install the components in the same locations and with the same mating surfaces as when removed.

Disconnect the negative battery cables before you perform any major work on the engine.

Replacing Engine Gaskets

1. Do not reuse any gasket unless otherwise specified. Reusable gaskets will be identified in the service procedure. Do not apply sealant to any gasket or sealing surface unless called out in the service procedure.
2. Use a rubber mallet in order to separate components. Bump the part sideways in order to loosen the components. Perform the bumping at the bends or at the reinforced areas in order to prevent the distortion of components. Important: Do not use any other method or technique in order to remove the gasket material from a components. Do not use the following items in order to clean the gasket surfaces: Abrasive pads. Sand paper. Power tools. These methods of cleaning may damage the component. Abrasive pads also produce a fine grit that the oil filter cannot remove from the oil. This grit is abrasive and may cause internal engine damage.
3. Remove all of the gasket and the sealing material from the component using a plastic or a wood scraper. Do not gouge or scrape the sealing surfaces. Important: Do not allow the sealant to enter any blind threaded holes. The sealant may cause the following conditions: Prevent you from properly seating the bolt. Cause damage when you tighten the bolt.
4. When assembling components, use only the sealant specified in the service procedure. Ensure that the sealing surfaces are clean and free of debris or oil. When applying sealant to a component, apply a bead size as specified in the service procedure.
5. Tighten the bolts to the specifications.

Use Of RTV & Anaerobic Sealer

The following 2 types of sealer are commonly used in engines

1. The RTV sealer.
2. The anaerobic gasket eliminator sealer.

Follow the service procedure instructions. Use the correct sealer in the proper place in order to prevent oil leaks. Do not interchange the 2 types of sealers. Use the sealer recommended in the service procedure.

Applying RTV Sealer

1. Do not use the room temperature vulcanizing (RTV) sealant in areas where extreme temperatures are expected. These areas include the following locations: The exhaust manifold. The head gasket. The other surfaces where gasket eliminator is specified.
2. Use a rubber mallet in order to separate the components sealed with RTV sealant. Bump the part sideways in order to shear the RTV sealer. Perform the bumping at the bends or the reinforced areas in order to prevent distortion of the components. The RTV sealant is weaker in shear (lateral) strength than in tensile (vertical) strength. Important: Do not use any other method or technique in order to remove the gasket material from a component.
3. Do not use the following items in order to clean the gasket surfaces: Abrasive pads. Sand Paper. Power tools.

These methods of cleaning may damage the part.

Abrasive pads also produce a fine grit that the oil filter cannot remove from the oil. This grit is abrasive and may cause internal engine damage.

1. Remove all of the gasket material from the component using a plastic or a wood scraper. Use Loctite® brand gasket remover P/N 4MA or the equivalent. Follow all of the safety recommendations and the directions that are on the container. Important: Do not allow the sealer to enter the blind threaded holes. The sealer may cause the following conditions: Prevent you from properly seating the bolt. Cause damage when you tighten the bolt.
2. Apply the RTV sealant to a clean surface. Use a bead size as specified in the procedure. Apply the bead to the inside of any bolt holes.
3. Assemble the components while the RTV sealant is still wet (within 3 minutes). Do not wait for the RTV sealant to skin over. Important: Do not overtighten the bolts.
4. Tighten the bolts to specifications.

Applying Anaerobic Sealer

The anaerobic gasket eliminator hardens in the absence of air. This type of sealer is used where 2 rigid parts (such as castings) are assembled together. When 2 rigid parts are disassembled and no sealer or gasket is readily noticeable, the parts were probably assembled using a gasket eliminator.

Important: Do not use any other method or technique in order to remove the gasket material from a component.

Do not use the following items in order to clean the gasket surfaces

1. Abrasive pads.
2. Sand paper.
3. Power tools.

These methods of cleaning may damage the part.

Abrasive pads also produce a fine grit that the oil filter cannot remove from the oil. This grit is abrasive and may cause internal engine damage.

1. Remove all of the gasket material from the component using a plastic or a wood scraper. Use Loctite® brand gasket remover P/N 4MA or the equivalent. Follow all of the safety recommendations and the directions that are on the container.
2. Apply a continuous bead of the gasket eliminator to 1 flange. Clean and dry any surfaces that you will reseal. Important: Anaerobic sealed joints that are partially torqued and allowed to cure more than 5 minutes may result in incorrect shimming and sealing of the joint.
3. Do not allow the sealer to enter the blind threaded holes. The sealer may cause the following conditions: Prevent you from properly seating the bolt. Cause damage when you tighten the bolt.
4. Spread the sealer evenly in order to get a uniform coating on the sealing surface.
5. Tighten the bolts to the specifications.
6. Remove the excess sealer from the outside of the joint.

Separating Parts

The components of an internal combustion engine develop wear patterns with their mating components. During disassembly of the engine, parts should be separated and kept in order so they may be reinstalled in the same location from which they were removed.

Tools & Equipment

Work in a clean and well-lit area. Have the following components available before you begin to work

1. A suitable parts cleaning tank.
2. A compressed air supply.
3. Trays, in order to keep the parts and the fasteners organized.
4. An adequate set of hand tools.

An approved engine repair stand will prevent personal injury or damage to the engine components. The special tools are designed in order to quickly and safely accomplish the operations for which the tools are intended. Using the tools will minimize possible damage to the engine components. Precision measuring tools are required for the inspection of certain critical components. Torque wrenches are needed for the correct assembly of various parts.

Scheme 378

Scheme 379

Scheme 380

Scheme 381

Scheme 382

Scheme 383

See also:
• Thread Repair
• Cylinder Boring & Honing