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Starting System Acura ZDX I

Starter 37 illustrations ~3495 words

Scheme 1

Scheme 1: Without Keyless Access System
Scheme 1: Without Keyless Access System

Scheme 2

Scheme 2: With Keyless Access System
Scheme 2: With Keyless Access System

Symptom Troubleshooting Index

SymptomDiagnostic procedureAlso check for
Engine does not crankCheck for loose battery terminals or connections. Test the battery for a low state of charge (see BATTERY TEST ). Check the starter (see STARTER SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ). Check starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2 (see POWER RELAY TEST ). Check the transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST ). Check the ignition switch and its related circuits (see IGNITION SWITCH TEST ).Poor ground at G101 Seized engine
Engine cranks, but does not startCheck for PGM-FI DTCs (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). Check the PGM-FI main relays (see POWER RELAY TEST ). Check for IMMOBI status and function (see SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING ). Check the fuel pressure (see FUEL PRESSURE TEST ). Check for a plugged or damaged fuel line (see FUEL LINE INSPECTION ). Check for a plugged fuel filter (see FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT ). Check the throttle body (see THROTTLE BODY TEST ). Check for low engine compression (see ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION ). Check for a damaged or broken timing belt (see TIMING BELT INSPECTION ). Do the PCM reset in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.Fuel level in tank Weak or fouled spark plugs
Engine is hard to startCheck for PGM-FI DTCs (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). Check the fuel pressure (see FUEL PRESSURE TEST ). Check for a plugged or damaged fuel line (see FUEL LINE INSPECTION ). Check for a plugged fuel filter (see FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT ).Weak or fouled spark plugs
Engine cranks slowlyCheck for loose battery terminals or connections. Test the battery for a low state of charge (see BATTERY TEST ). Check the starter for binding (see STARTER OVERHAUL ). Check for excessive drag in the engine.
Multi-information display warning CHECK STARTING SYSTEMCheck for PGM-FI DTCs (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

WITHOUT KEYLESS ACCESS SYSTEM

SymptomDiagnostic procedureAlso check for
Engine does not crankCheck for loose battery terminals or connections. Test the battery for a low state of charge (see BATTERY TEST ). Check for BODY DTCs (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). Check for symptom troubleshooting: Engine does not start with the remote or with the remote in the remote slot (see SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING ). Engine does not start with the remote (see THE ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START WITH KEYLESS ACCESS ). Engine does not start with the remote in the remote slot (see THE ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START WITH THE REMOTE IN THE REMOTE SLOT ). Check the starter (see WITH KEYLESS ACCESS SYSTEM ). Check starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2 (see POWER RELAY TEST ). Check the brake pedal position switch (see BRAKE PEDAL POSITION SWITCH TEST ). Check the transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST ). Check the engine start/stop switch and its related circuits (see ENGINE START/STOP SWITCH TEST/REPLACEMENT ).Poor ground at G101 Seized engine
Engine cranks, but does not startCheck for PGM-FI DTCs (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). Check the PGM-FI main relays (see POWER RELAY TEST ). Check for keyless access system symptom troubleshooting information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). Check the fuel pressure (see FUEL PRESSURE TEST ). Check for a plugged or damaged fuel line (see FUEL LINE INSPECTION ). Check for a plugged fuel filter (see FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT ). Check the throttle body (see THROTTLE BODY TEST ). Check for low engine compression (see ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION ). Check for a damaged or broken timing belt (see TIMING BELT INSPECTION ). Do the PCM reset in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.Fuel level in tank Weak or fouled spark plugs
Engine is hard to startCheck for PGM-FI DTCs (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). Check the fuel pressure (see FUEL PRESSURE TEST ). Check for a plugged or damaged fuel line (see FUEL LINE INSPECTION ). Check for a plugged fuel filter (see FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT ).Weak or fouled spark plugs
Engine cranks slowlyCheck for loose battery terminals or connections. Test the battery for a low state of charge (see BATTERY TEST ). Check the starter for binding (see STARTER OVERHAUL ). Check for excessive drag in the engine.
Multi-information display warning CHECK KEYLESS STARTING SYSTEMCheck for PGM-FI DTCs (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).
Engine does not stopCheck for BODY DTCs (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). Check the engine start/stop switch (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

WITH KEYLESS ACCESS SYSTEM

Scheme 3

Scheme 3: Without Keyless Access System
Scheme 3: Without Keyless Access System

Scheme 4

Scheme 4: With Keyless Access System
Scheme 4: With Keyless Access System

Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting

Special Tools Required

Alternator, Regulator, Battery, and Starter Tester OTC3131*

*: Available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857.

Without Keyless Access System

Note. Air temperature must be within 59-100 °F(15-38 °C) during this procedure. After the inspection, you must reset the PCM. Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating. The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

Scheme 5

Scheme 5: Without Keyless Access System
Scheme 5: Without Keyless Access System

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Scheme 7

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  1. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown in illustration. NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.
  2. Do the BATTERY TEST. Does the display indicate GOOD or GOOD, LOW CHARGE? YES -The battery is OK. Charge the battery if necessary, then go to step 3. NO -If the display indicates BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest. If the display indicates CHARGE & RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.
  3. Connect the HDS to the DLC (see step 2 on «HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM)»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems) ).
  4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
  5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the PCM. If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see «PCM POWER AND GROUND CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system) ).
  6. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS.
  7. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in P or N, turn the ignition switch to START (III) to crank the engine. NOTE: The auto-start function cranks the engine until it starts, or for 15 seconds if the engine does not start. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -The starting system is OK. Go to step 15 . NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
  9. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 15 . NO -Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action: If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 10. If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 12 . If the starter does not disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key after 15 seconds, replace the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), or remove and disassemble it (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and check for the following: Starter solenoid and switch malfunction. Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch. Damaged torque converter ring gear.
  10. Make sure the shift lever is in P or N, then disconnect the connector (A) from the starter S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal. Does the starter crank the engine? YES -Go to step 11. NO -Replace the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), or remove and disassemble it (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), as necessary.
  11. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit: NOTE: After the problem in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 15 . A blown STS (7.5 A) fuse in the auxiliary under-dash fuse holder located below the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. A blown No. 8 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the WHT wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1, the ignition switch, and the under-hood fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the BLK wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and the PCM. Check for an open or short in the BRN wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2. Check for an open or short in the WHT wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between starter cut relay 2 and the starter. Check for an open or short in the YEL wire, LT GRN wire, and connectors between the ignition switch and the PCM. Check for an open or short in the YEL wire and connectors between the PCM, starter cut relay 1, and starter cut relay 2. Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2. Check for an open or short in the PNK wire, BLU/WHT wire, and connectors between starter cut relay 1, starter cut relay 2, and the transmission range switch. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and body ground G101. Check for a faulty ignition switch (see «IGNITION SWITCH TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/steering-column-switches/#ignition-switch) ). Check for a faulty transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Check for a faulty starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2 (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#relays__power-relay-test) ).
  12. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester to the battery. NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing.
  13. Do the STARTING TEST. Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.0 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 375 A? YES -Go to step 14. NO -Replace the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), or remove and disassemble it (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and check for these problems: Drag in the starter armature Short in the armature winding Excessive drag in the engine Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in the starter brushes Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear Faulty overrunning clutch
  14. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and inspect its drive gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
  15. Select PCM reset (see «PCM RESET»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__pcm-reset) ) in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS. Special Tools Required Alternator, Regulator, Battery, and Starter Tester OTC3131* *: Available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857.

With Keyless Access System

Note. Air temperature must be within 59-100 °F (15-38 °C) during this procedure. After the inspection, you must reset the PCM. Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating. The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

Scheme 8

Scheme 8: With Keyless Access System
Scheme 8: With Keyless Access System

Scheme 9

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Scheme 9

Scheme 10

Scheme 10
Scheme 10
  1. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown in illustration. NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.
  2. Do the BATTERY TEST. Does the display indicate GOOD or GOOD, LOW CHARGE? YES -The battery is OK. Charge the battery if necessary, then go to step 3. NO -If the display indicates BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest. If the display indicates CHARGE & RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.
  3. Connect the HDS to the DLC (see step 2 on «HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM)»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems) ).
  4. Press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the PCM. If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see «GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems) ).
  6. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS.
  7. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in P or N, press the brake pedal, then press the engine start/stop button to select the engine START mode to crank the engine. NOTE: The auto-start function cranks the engine until it starts, or for 15 seconds if the engine does not start. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -The starting system is OK. Go to step 15 . NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  9. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 15 . NO -Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action: If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 10. If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 12 . If the starter does not disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), or remove and disassemble it (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and check for the following: Starter solenoid and switch malfunction. Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch. Damaged torque converter ring gear.
  10. Make sure the shift lever is in P or N, then disconnect the connector (A) from the starter S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal. Does the starter crank the engine? YES -Go to step 11. NO -Replace the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), or remove and disassemble it (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), as necessary.
  11. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit: NOTE: After the problem in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 15 . A blown No. 8 (7.5 A) fuse and No. 13 (15 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the WHT wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1, the power control unit, and the under-hood fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the BLK wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and the PCM. Check for an open or short in the BRN wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2. Check for an open or short in the WHT wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between starter cut relay 2 and the starter. Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the power control unit and the PCM. Check for an open or short in the YEL wire and connectors between the PCM, starter cut relay 1, and starter cut relay 2. Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2. Check for an open or short in the PNK wire, BLU/WHT wire, and connectors between starter cut relay 1, starter cut relay 2, and the transmission range switch. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and body ground G101. Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the power control unit, the brake pedal position switch, and the PCM. Check for an open or short in the RED wire and connectors between the brake pedal position switch and the under-hood fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the BLU wire and connectors between the power control unit and the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the RED wire and connectors between the brake pedal position switch and the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the ORN wire and connectors between the brake pedal position switch and the PCM. Check for a faulty transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), Check for a faulty starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2 (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#relays__power-relay-test) ). Check for faulty brake pedal position switch (see «BRAKE PEDAL POSITION SWITCH TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exterior-lights/#exterior-lights) ).
  12. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester to the battery. NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing.
  13. Do the STARTING TEST. Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.0 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 375 A? YES -Go to step 14. NO -Replace the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), or remove and disassemble it (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and check for these problems: Drag in the starter armature Short in the armature winding Excessive drag in the engine Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in the starter brushes Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear Faulty overrunning clutch
  14. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and inspect its drive gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
  15. Select PCM reset (see «PCM RESET»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__pcm-reset) ) in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.

Scheme 11

Scheme 11: Starter Solenoid Test
Scheme 11: Starter Solenoid Test
  1. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  2. Remove the battery base (see step 10 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-removal) ).
  3. Disconnect the positive starter cable (A), the motor wire (B), and the S terminal connector (C).
  4. Check the hold-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the armature housing (ground). There should be continuity: If there is continuity, go to step 5. If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid.
  5. Check the pull-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the M terminal. There should be continuity: If there is continuity, the solenoid is OK. If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid.
  6. Connect the wire and the connector in the reverse order of removal.
  7. Install the battery base (see step 54 on «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-installation) ).
  8. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).

Scheme 12

Scheme 12: Starter Performance Test
Scheme 12: Starter Performance Test

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Scheme 15
Scheme 15
  1. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ).
  2. Disconnect the motor wire from the M terminal.
  3. Clamp the starter firmly in a vise.
  4. Make the connections for this test using the thickest (gauge) wire possible (preferably the same gauge as used on the vehicle). NOTE: To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 5 seconds.
  5. Connect the battery as shown in illustration. Make sure you disconnect the starter motor wire from the M terminal. If the starter pinion moves out, it is working properly.
  6. Disconnect the battery from the M terminal. If the pinion does not retract, the hold-in coil of the solenoid is working properly.
  7. Disconnect the battery from the starter body as shown in illustration. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working properly.
  8. Reconnect the motor wire to the M terminal.
  9. Connect the starter to the battery as shown in illustration, and confirm that the motor runs.
  10. If the electric current meets the specification when the battery voltage is at 11.5 V, the starter is working properly. Specification Electric Current: 90 A or less

Scheme 16

Scheme 16: Removal
Scheme 16: Removal
  1. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  2. Remove the battery base (see step 10 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-removal) ).
  3. Disconnect the positive starter cable (A) and the S terminal connector (B).
  4. Remove the lower radiator hose bracket (C) from the starter and remove the dipstick (D).
  5. Remove the two bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter.

Scheme 17

Scheme 17: Installation
Scheme 17: Installation
  1. Install the starter, then tighten the mounting bolts (A). NOTE: Always use a new gasket.
  2. Install the lower radiator hose bracket (B) to the starter and install the dipstick (C).
  3. Connect the positive starter cable (D) and the S terminal connector (E). Make sure the crimped side of the ring terminal faces away from the starter when you connect it.
  4. Install the battery base (see step 54 on «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-installation) ).
  5. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  6. Start the engine to make sure the starter works properly.

Scheme 18

Scheme 18: Exploded View
Scheme 18: Exploded View

Note. (Scheme 18)if needed during this procedure.

Brush Holder Removal

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Scheme 37
  1. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ).
  2. Disconnect the motor wire from M terminal (see step 3 on STARTER SOLENOID TEST ), and remove the end cover.
  3. Pry back each brush spring with a screwdriver, then position the brush on the brush holder about halfway out of its holder. Release the spring to hold it in place.
  4. Remove the brush holder assembly (A). Armature Inspection and Test
  5. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
  6. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 7, or recondition with # 500 or # 600 sandpaper (B).
  7. Check the commutator diameter with a digital caliper or dial type caliper. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (New): 28.9-29.0 mm (1.138-1.142 in) Service Limit: 28.0 mm (1.102 in)
  8. Measure the commutator (A) runout: If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Runout Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.0008 in) max. Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in)
  9. Use a digital caliper or dial type caliper to check the mica depth (A). If the mica depth is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New): 0.50-0.90 mm (0.0197-0.0354 in) Service Limit: 0.20 mm (0.0079 in)
  10. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is an open circuit between any segments, replace the armature.
  11. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
  12. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and the armature shaft (C). If there is continuity, replace the armature. Overrunning Clutch Inspection
  13. Slide the overrunning clutch (A) along the shaft. Replace it if it does not slide smoothly.
  14. Hold the overrunning clutch (A), and turn the drive gear (B) in the direction shown in illustration to make sure it turns freely. Also make sure the drive gear locks in the opposite direction. If it does not lock, replace the overrunning clutch assembly.
  15. If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. Check the condition of the idler gear and the torque converter ring gear. Replace it if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged. Starter Brush Inspection
  16. Measure the brush length. If it is shorter than the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Length Standard (New): 15.0-16.0 mm (0.591-0.630 in) Service Limit: 9.0 mm (0.354 in) Starter Brush Holder Test
  17. Check for continuity between the (+) brush holders (A) and the (-) brush holders (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Spring Inspection
  18. Insert the brush (A) into the brush holder, and bring the brush into contact with the commutator, then attach a spring scale (B) to the spring (C). Measure the spring tension at the moment the spring lifts off the brush. If it is not within the standard, replace the brush holder assembly. Spring Tension Standard (New): 22.3-27.3 N (2.27-2.78 kgf, 5.00-6.13 lbf) Planetary Gear Inspection
  19. Check the planetary gears (A), the armature shaft gear (B), and the internal ring gear (C). Replace them if they are worn or damaged. Starter Reassembly
  20. Install the armature housing (A) and the armature (B) by aligning the slotted point (C) to the projection (D).
  21. Pry back each brush spring with a screwdriver, then position the brush on the brush holder about halfway out of its holder. Release the spring to hold it in place. NOTE: To seat the new brushes. Slip a strip of #500 or # 600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and the each brush, and smoothly turn the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
  22. Install the brush holder assembly. Next pry back each brush spring again, and push each brush down until it seats against the commutator, then release the spring against the end of the brush.
  23. Install the end cover to retain the brush holder.
  24. Install the starter (see «INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/starter/#starting-system) ).