Contents Wiring diagrams Section: Automatic Trans All sections

Automatic Transmission Acura ZDX I

Automatic Trans 663 illustrations ~68352 words

Scheme 1

Scheme 1: Special Tools

Scheme 2

Scheme 2

How to Check for DTCs with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS)

When the powertrain control module (PCM) senses an abnormality in the input or output system, the D indicator (A) in the gauge control module (B) will usually blink.

Scheme 3

Scheme 3: How to Check for DTCs with the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS)

When the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) is connected to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard, and when the ignition switch is turned to ON (II), or the engine start/stop button is pressed to select the ON mode, and the appropriate menu is selected, it will indicate the diagnostic trouble code (DTC).

Scheme 4

Scheme 4

If the D indicator or the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has been reported on, or if a driveability problem is suspected, follow this procedure

  1. Connect the HDS to the DLC. (See the HDS user's manual for specific instructions.)
  2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
  3. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS.
  4. Record the freeze data and the on-board snapshots for all fuel and emissions DTCs and A/T DTCs.
  5. If there is a fuel and emissions DTC, first check the fuel and emissions system as indicated by the DTC.
  6. Clear the DTC and data.
  7. Drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data, and then recheck for the DTC. If the A/T DTC returns, go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . If the DTC does not return, there was an intermittent problem within the circuit. Make sure all pins and terminals in the circuit are tight.

Symptom Troubleshooting Versus DTC Troubleshooting

Some symptoms will not set DTCs or cause the D indicator to blink. If the MIL was reported ON or the D indicator has been blinking, check for DTCs. If the vehicle has an abnormal symptom, and there are no DTCs stored, do the symptom troubleshooting. Check the list of probable cause(s) for the symptom, in the sequence listed, until you find the problem.

How to Check for DTCs with the SCS Mode (retrieving the flash codes)

Note. The preferred method is to use the HDS to retrieve the DTCs.

When the PCM senses an abnormality in the input or output system, the D indicator (A) in the gauge control module (B) will usually blink.

Scheme 5

Scheme 5: How to Check for DTCs with the SCS Mode (retrieving the flash codes)

When the D indicator has been reported on, connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode, select SCS mode, then the D indicator will indicate (blink) the DTC.

Scheme 6

Scheme 6

If the D indicator and the MIL come on at the same time, or if a driveability problem is suspected, follow this procedure

Scheme 7

Scheme 7

Scheme 8

Scheme 8
  1. Connect the HDS to the DLC. (See the HDS user's manual for specific instructions.)
  2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
  3. Select SCS mode, then observe the D indicator in the gauge control module. Codes 1 through 9 are indicated by individual short blinks. Code 10 and above are indicated by a series of long and short blinks. One long blink equals 10 short blinks. Add the long and short blinks together to determine the code.
  4. If there is a fuel and emissions DTC, first check the fuel and emissions system as indicated by the DTC.
  5. Clear the DTC and data.
  6. If the freeze data is available, drive the vehicle for several minutes with periods of wide open throttle, steady cruise, and stop and go, and then recheck for DTCs. If the A/T DTC returns, go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . If the DTC does not return, there was an intermittent problem within the circuit. Make sure all pins and terminals in the circuit are tight.

How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the PCM Connectors

Note. The PCM overwrites data and monitors the EVAP system for about an hour after the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0), or the engine start/stop button is pressed to select the OFF mode. Jumping the SCS line after turning the ignition switch to LOCK(0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode cancels this function. Disconnecting the PCM during this function, without jumping the SCS line first, can damage the PCM.

Scheme 9

Scheme 9: How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the PCM Connectors

Scheme 10

Scheme 10

Scheme 11

Scheme 11
  1. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  2. Remove the bracket (D), then remove the cover (E).
  3. Disconnect PCM connectors A, B, and C. NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=[], B=delta, C=o) embossed on them for identification.
  4. When diagnosis/troubleshooting is done at the PCM connector, use the terminal test port (A) above the terminal you need to check.
  5. Connect one side of the patch cord terminals (A) to a commercially available digital multimeter (B), and connect the other side of the terminals (C) to a commercially available banana jack (Pomona Electronics Tool No. 3563 or equivalent) (D).
  6. Gently contact the pin probe (male) at the terminal test port from the terminal side. Do not force the tips into the terminals. NOTE: For accurate results, always use the pin probe (male). To prevent damage to the connector terminals, do not insert test equipment probes, paper clips, or other substitutes. Damaged terminals cause a poor connection and an incorrect measurement. Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical connections.

Scheme 12

Scheme 12: Clear A/T DTCs Procedures
  1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
  4. Clear the DTC(s) on the HDS screen.

OBD Status

The OBD status shows the current system status of each DTC and all of the parameters. This function is used to see if a repair was successfully completed. The results of diagnostic tests for the DTC are displayed as

  1. PASSED: The on-board diagnosis is successfully completed.
  2. FAILED: The on-board diagnosis has completed but failed.
  3. NOT COMPLETED: The on-board diagnosis was running but is out of the enable conditions of the DTC.

How to End a Troubleshooting Session (required after any troubleshooting)

Note. Reset the PCM/TCM with the HDS while the engine is stopped.

  1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode, and wait for 30 seconds, then disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
  3. Start the engine with the shift lever in P or N, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  4. To verify that the problem is repaired, test-drive the vehicle for several minutes at speeds over 31 mph (50 km/h) or under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data.

PCM/TCM Reset

Note. To reset the PCM/TCM, initialize only the automatic transmission memory stored in the PCM or the TCM.

  1. Select the A/T system with the HDS.
  2. Reset the PCM/TCM with the HDS while the engine is stopped.
  3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode, and wait for 30 seconds, then disconnect the HDS from the DLC.

Substitute the PCM

Refer to Substituting the PCM (see SUBSTITUTING THE PCM ).

Failure Reproduction Technique

Make sure to follow these points while the vehicle is raised on a lift for the test-drive.

  1. Disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button.
  2. VSA DTC(s) may come on when test-driving on a lift. If the VSA DTC(s) come on, clear the DTC(s) with the HDS.
  3. Use the sequential sportshift mode to manually select gears.

Self-Diagnosis

If the PCM detects the failure of a signal from a sensor, a switch, a solenoid valve, or from another control unit, it stores Pending or Confirmed DTCs. Depending on the failure, a Confirmed DTC is stored in either the first or the second drive cycle. When a Confirmed DTC is stored, the PCM blinks the D indicator and/or turns on the MIL by a signal sent to the gauge control module via F-CAN.

  1. One Drive Cycle Detection Method When an abnormality occurs in the signal from a sensor, a switch, a solenoid valve, or from another control unit, the PCM stores a Pending or Confirmed DTC for the failure and blinks the D indicator and/or turns on the MIL immediately.
  2. Two Drive Cycle Detection Method When an abnormality occurs in the signal from a sensor, a switch, a solenoid valve, or from another control unit in the first drive cycle, the PCM stores a Pending DTC. The D indicator and the MIL do not turns on at this time. If the failure continues in the second drive cycle, the PCM stores a Confirmed DTC and blinks the D indicator and/or turns on the MIL.

Fail-Safe Function

When an abnormality occurs in the signal from a sensor, a switch, a solenoid valve, or from another control unit, the PCM ignores that signal and substitutes a pre-programmed value for that signal to allow the automatic transmission to continue operating. This causes a DTC to be stored and the D indicator blink and/or the MIL to come on. The transmission may not shift normally during fail-safe operation. Do not run the test driving diagnosis when the MIL is ON, or when the D indicator is blinking.

DTC Troubleshooting Index

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

DTC (1)Two Drive Cycle DetectionD IndicatorMILDetection Item
P062F (-)BlinksONPowertrain Control Module (PCM) Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
P0705 (5) (2)BlinksONShort in Transmission Range Switch Circuit (Multiple Shift-Position Input)
P0706 (6) (2)OOFFONOpen in Transmission Range Switch Circuit
P0711 (28) (2)OBlinksOFFProblem in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit
P0712 (28) (2)OBlinksOFFShort in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit
P0713 (28) (2)OBlinksOFFOpen in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit
P0716 (15) (2)BlinksONProblem in Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Circuit
P0717 (15) (2)BlinksONProblem in Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input)
P0718 (15) (2)OBlinksONInput Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Intermittent Failure
P0721 (9) (2)BlinksONProblem in Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Circuit
P0722 (9) (2)BlinksONProblem in Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input)
P0723 (9) (2)OBlinksONOutput Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Intermittent Failure
P0729 (64)OBlinksOFFProblem in 6th Clutch and 6th Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
P0731 (64)OBlinksOFFProblem in 1st Clutch and 1st Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
P0732 (64)OBlinksOFFProblem in 2nd Clutch and 2nd Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
P0733 (64)OBlinksOFFProblem in 3rd Clutch and 3rd Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
P0734 (64)OBlinksOFFProblem in 4th Clutch and 4th Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
P0735 (64)OBlinksOFFProblem in 5th Clutch and 5th Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
P0741 (40)OBlinksOFFTorque Converter Clutch Hydraulic Circuit Stuck OFF
P0746 (76)OBlinksONA/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF
P0747 (76)OBlinksONA/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON
P0751 (70)OBlinksONShift Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF
P0752 (70)OBlinksONShift Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON
P0756 (71)OBlinksONShift Solenoid Valve B Stuck OFF
P0757 (71)OBlinksONShift Solenoid Valve B Stuck ON
P0761 (72)OBlinksONShift Solenoid Valve C Stuck OFF
P0762 (72)OBlinksONShift Solenoid Valve C Stuck ON
P0776 (77)OBlinksONA/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Stuck OFF
P0777 (77)OBlinksONA/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Stuck ON
P0796 (78)OBlinksONA/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Stuck OFF
P0797 (78)OBlinksONA/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Stuck ON
P0812 (65) (2)OBlinksONOpen in Transmission Range Switch ATP R Switch Circuit
P0842 (25) (2)OBlinksONShort in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch A (2nd Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch A (2nd Clutch) Stuck ON
P0843 (25)OBlinksONOpen in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch A (2nd Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch A (2nd Clutch) Stuck OFF
P0847 (26) (2)OBlinksONShort in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch B (3rd Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch B (3rd Clutch) Stuck ON
P0848 (26)OBlinksONOpen in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch B (3rd Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch B (3rd Clutch) Stuck OFF
P084C (179)OBlinksONShort in Line Pressure Switch Circuit, or Line Pressure Switch Stuck ON
P0872 (27) (2)OBlinksONShort in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch C (4th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch C (4th Clutch) Stuck ON
P0873 (27)OBlinksONOpen in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch C (4th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch C (4th Clutch) Stuck OFF
P0877 (175) (2)OBlinksONShort in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch D (5th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch D (5th Clutch) Stuck ON
P0878 (175)OBlinksONOpen in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch D (5th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch D (5th Clutch) Stuck OFF
P0962 (16) (2)BlinksONProblem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Circuit
P0963 (16) (2)BlinksONProblem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A
P0966 (23) (2)BlinksONProblem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Circuit
P0967 (23) (2)BlinksONProblem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B
P0970 (29) (2)BlinksONProblem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Circuit
P0971 (29) (2)BlinksONProblem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C
P0973 (7) (2)BlinksONShort in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit
P0974 (7) (2)BlinksONOpen in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit
P0976 (8) (2)BlinksONShort in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit
P0977 (8) (2)BlinksONOpen in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit
P0979 (22) (2)BlinksONShort in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit
P0980 (22) (2)BlinksONOpen in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit
P0989 (176) (2)OBlinksONShort in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch E (6th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch E (6th Clutch) Stuck ON
P0990 (176)OBlinksONOpen in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch E (6th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch E (6th Clutch) Stuck OFF
P16C0 (-) (2)OFFONPCM A/T Control System Incomplete Update
P1717 (62) (2)OBlinksONOpen in Transmission Range Switch ATPRVS Switch Circuit
P177A (190)OBlinksOFFLine Pressure Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF, or Line Pressure Switch Stuck OFF
P2714 (79)OBlinksONA/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve D Stuck OFF
P2720 (66) (2)BlinksONProblem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve D Circuit
P2721 (66) (2)BlinksONProblem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve D
P2821 (69)OBlinksONLine Pressure Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON
P2826 (67) (2)OBlinksOFFShort in Line Pressure Solenoid Valve A Circuit
P2827 (67) (2)OBlinksOFFOpen in Line Pressure Solenoid Valve A Circuit
U0029 (107) (2)BlinksOFF or ON (3)F-CAN Communication Circuit Error (F-CAN Bus OFF)
U0104 (107) (2) , (4)BlinksOFFLost Communication with Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) Unit-PCM
U0122 (107) (2)BlinksOFFLost Communication with VSA Modulator-Control Unit
U0155 (107) (2)BlinksOFF or ON (3)Lost Communication with Gauge Control Module
(1) The DTC in parentheses is the flash code the D indicator indicates when the data link connector (DLC) is connected to the HDS, and in the SCS mode. (2) This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. (3) The MIL comes on when the PGM-FI system detects the same failure. (4) With ACC
(1)The DTC in parentheses is the flash code the D indicator indicates when the data link connector (DLC) is connected to the HDS, and in the SCS mode.
(2)This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
(3)The MIL comes on when the PGM-FI system detects the same failure.
(4)With ACC

Symptom Troubleshooting Index

Note. Do an all DTC check with the HDS and troubleshoot those first before following the repair procedures listed in the index.

SymptomProbable cause (s)Notes
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the D indicator comes on and stays on in all shift lever positions, or it never comes on at allF-CAN communication line error Gauge control module defective PCM defectiveCheck the F-CAN communication line (see DTC U0300: PGM-FI SYSTEM AND A/T SYSTEM PROGRAM VERSION MISMATCH ). Check the F-CAN communication line by using the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see THE COMMUNICATION LINE CHECK ). Check the indicator drive circuit in the gauge control module by using the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see THE INDICATOR DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK ).
A/T gear position indicator does not come on with the shift lever in that positionF-CAN communication line error Gauge control module defective Transmission range switch defective PCM defectiveCheck the F-CAN communication line (see DTC U0300: PGM-FI SYSTEM AND A/T SYSTEM PROGRAM VERSION MISMATCH ). Check the F-CAN communication line by using the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see THE COMMUNICATION LINE CHECK ). Check the indicator drive circuit in the gauge control module by using the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see THE INDICATOR DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK ). Inspect the transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST ).
Shift indicator does not workF-CAN communication line error Gauge control module defective Transmission range switch defective PCM defectiveCheck the F-CAN communication line (see DTC U0300: PGM-FI SYSTEM AND A/T SYSTEM PROGRAM VERSION MISMATCH ). Check the F-CAN communication line by using the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see THE COMMUNICATION LINE CHECK ). Check the indicator drive circuit in the gauge control module by using the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see THE INDICATOR DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK ). Inspect the transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST ).
When you press the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) in D and S, the transmission does not upshiftA problem in the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) circuitCheck the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) circuit (see PADDLE SHIFTER + (UPSHIFT SWITCH) CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).
When you press the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) in D and S, the transmission does not downshiftA problem in the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) circuitCheck the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) circuit (see PADDLE SHIFTER - (DOWNSHIFT SWITCH) CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).
Shift lever cannot be moved from P while pressing on the brake pedalAccelerator pedal position sensor circuit Accelerator pedal position sensor defective Brake pedal position switch circuit Brake pedal position switch defective Shift lock solenoid defective Shift lock solenoid control circuit Shift lock mechanism defective Throttle body defective Relative throttle position sensor value too high Transmission range switch ATPP switch stuck OFF Transmission range switch ATPP switch line openedInspect the APP sensor signal (see APP SENSOR SIGNAL INSPECTION ). Troubleshoot the shift lock system circuit (see SHIFT LOCK SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ). Test the shift lock solenoid (see SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID TEST ). Inspect the transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST ). Reset the PCM (see IF THE MIL DID NOT STAY ON ). Test the throttle body (see THROTTLE BODY TEST ). If it fail, replace the throttle body (see THROTTLE BODY REMOVAL/INSTALLATION )
Engine runs, but vehicle does not move in any gearTransmission range switch broken or out of adjustment Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn Drive plate defective or transmission incorrectly installed Torque converter clutch piston defective Torque converter defective Low ATF level ATF pump worn or binding Main regulator valve stuck or spring worn Foreign material in separator plate orifice Manual valve defective ATF strainer clogged Torque converter regulator valve defective Mainshaft worn or damaged Countershaft worn or damaged Final gears worn or damaged Park mechanism defective Selector control shaft worn or damaged Axle disengagedInspect the transmission range switch. If the transmission range switch fails the inspection, replace the switch. If the inspection is OK, check for proper transmission range switch installation, and adjust the shift cable. Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever. Check for an incorrectly installed transmission, and check the drive plate for wear and damage. Replace the drive plate if it is worn or damaged. Replace the torque converter. Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler lines for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines. Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Improper alignment of the ATF pump and the torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak. Check the main regulator valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage. Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice. Check the manual valve in the manual valve body for wear and damage, and check the manual lever guide pin for wear and damage. Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter. Check the torque converter regulator valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the valve spring for wear and damage. Inspect the differential pinion gears for wear. If the differential pinion gears are worn, replace the differential assembly, replace the ATF strainer, thoroughly clean the transmission, and clean the ATF cooler lines. Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will cause ATF pump seizure, use the proper tools. Install the main seal flush with the torque converter housing. If you push it into the torque converter housing until it bottoms out, it will block the fluid return passage and result in damage. Inspect the mainshaft and the countershaft for wear and damage. Inspect the park mechanism at the park lever link and park gear. Check the axles.
Vehicle moves in R, but not in D or STransmission range switch broken or out of adjustment Shift cable broken, binding, or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn Manual valve defective 1st accumulator defective Idler gears worn or damagedInspect the transmission range switch. If the transmission range switch fails the inspection, replace the switch. If the inspection is OK, check for proper transmission range switch installation, and adjust the shift cable. Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever. Check the manual valve in the manual valve body for wear and damage, and check the manual lever guide pin for wear and damage. Check the 1st accumulator piston, the O-ring, and the spring in the manual valve body for wear and damage. Inspect the mainshaft, the countershaft, the secondary shaft, the third shaft, and idler gears for wear and damage.
Vehicle moves in D and S, but not in R (or moves forward in R)Transmission range switch broken or out of adjustment Shift cable broken, binding, or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn Shift fork shaft stuck Manual valve defective 4th accumulator defective 4th clutch defective Reverse gears worn or damaged Reverse idler gear shaft/holder worn or damaged Reverse selector or reverse selector hub worn or damagedInspect the transmission range switch. If the transmission range switch fails the inspection, replace the switch. If the inspection is OK, check for proper transmission range switch installation, and adjust the shift cable. Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever. Check for a missing shift fork bolt on the shift fork shaft. Check the shift fork shaft detent for wear and damage. Check the manual valve in the manual valve body for wear and damage, and check the manual lever guide pin for wear and damage. Check the 4th accumulator piston, the O-ring, and the spring in the regulator valve body for wear and damage. Check the 4th clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Inspect the clutch clearance for the 4th clutch. Inspect the reverse idler gear shaft/holder for wear and damage. Inspect the reverse selector gear teeth chamfers, and inspect the engagement teeth chamfers of the third shaft reverse gear and the reverse selector hub. Replace the reverse gears and the reverse selector if they are worn or damaged. If the transmission makes clicking, grinding, or whirring noises, also replace the third shaft 4th gear, the reverse idler gear, the mainshaft 3rd gear, and the countershaft 2nd gear.
Poor acceleration; engine rpm abnormally rises when starting off in D, S, and RA/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D defective Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective Torque converter one-way clutch defective Low ATF level ATF pump worn or binding Main regulator valve stuck or spring worn ATF strainer clogged Stator shaft worn or damagedInspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Check the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor installation. Inspect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor O-ring for wear and damage. Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Replace the torque converter. Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler lines for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines. Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Improper alignment of the ATF pump and the torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak. Check the main regulator valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage. Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter. Check the stator shaft splines for wear and damage.
Poor acceleration; engine rpm abnormally rises when starting off in D, S, and R; stall speed high in D and SDrive plate defective or transmission incorrectly installed Torque converter clutch piston defective Torque converter defective 1st accumulator defective 1st clutch defective 2nd clutch defectiveCheck for an incorrectly installed transmission, and check the drive plate for wear and damage. Replace the drive plate if it is worn or damaged. Check the stall speed in R (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Replace the torque converter. Check the 1st and 2nd clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST ). Inspect the clutch clearance for the 1st and 2nd clutches. Check the 1st accumulator piston, the O-ring, and the spring in the manual valve body for wear and damage.
Poor acceleration; engine rpm abnormally rises when starting off in D, S, and R; stall speed high in RDrive plate defective or transmission incorrectly installed Torque converter clutch piston defective Torque converter defective 4th accumulator defective 4th clutch defectiveCheck for an incorrectly installed transmission, and check the drive plate for wear and damage. Replace the drive plate if it is worn or damaged. Check the stall speed in R (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Replace the torque converter. Check the 4th clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Inspect the clutch clearance for the 4th clutch. Check the 4th accumulator piston, the O-ring, and the spring in the regulator valve body for wear and damage.
Poor acceleration; engine rpm abnormally rises when starting off in D, S, and R; stall speed lowEngine output low Torque converter clutch piston defectiveCheck the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Replace the torque converter. Check the engine control system.
Engine idle vibrationEngine output low Torque converter clutch piston defective Transmission or engine mount defectiveCheck the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Replace the torque converter. Check the engine control system. Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Improper alignment of the ATF pump and the torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak. Inspect the transmission or engine mount. Inspect the valve clearance.
Vehicle moves in NShift solenoid valve C defective Line pressure solenoid valve A defective ATF temperature sensor defective Low ATF level Excessive ATF Main regulator valve stuck or spring worn Foreign material in separator plate orifice Lubrication regulator valve defective Lubrication shift valve defective Lock-up shift valve defective 1st clutch defective 2nd clutch defective 3rd clutch defective 4th clutch defective 5th clutch defective 6th clutch defective Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrect Needle bearings seized, worn, or damagedInspect the shift solenoid valve C function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE C TEST AND REPLACEMENT ). Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings. Inspect the line pressure solenoid valve A function with the HDS (see LINE PRESSURE SOLENOID VALVE A TEST ). Check for a seized line pressure solenoid valve A, and inspect the O-rings. Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler lines for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines. Check the ATF level, and drain the ATF if it is over-filled. Check the ATF temperature sensor O-ring for wear and damage. Check the main regulator valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage. Check all clutch pressures. Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice. Check the lubrication regulator valve, the lubrication shift valve, and the lock-up shift valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage. Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Inspect the clutch clearance for all clutches. Check the needle bearings on all shafts for seizure, wear, and damage.
Delayed engagement after shifting from N to D or S, or excessive shock when shiftingShift solenoid valve C defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D defective Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn ATF temperature sensor defective Low ATF level Foreign material in separator plate orifice 1st accumulator defective ATF strainer clogged Lock-up shift valve defective 1st clutch defective Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrectInspect the shift solenoid valve C function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE C TEST AND REPLACEMENT ). Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings. Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever. Inspect the ATF temperature sensor O-ring for wear and damage. Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler lines for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines. Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice. Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter. Check the lock-up shift valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve spring for wear and damage. Check the 1st clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Inspect the clutch clearance for the 1st clutch. Check the 1st accumulator piston, the O-ring, and the spring in the manual valve body for wear and damage.
Delayed engagement after shifting from N to R, or excessive shock when shiftingShift solenoid valve C defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D defective Shift cable broken, binding, or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn ATF temperature sensor defective Foreign material in separator plate orifice Shift valve C defective Reverse inhibitor valve defective 4th accumulator defective 4th/reverse air check valve stuck ATF strainer clogged Lock-up shift valve defective 4th clutch defective Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrectInspect the shift solenoid valve C function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE C TEST AND REPLACEMENT ). Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings. Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever. Inspect the ATF temperature sensor O-ring for wear and damage. Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice. Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter. Check the lock-up shift valve, shift valve C, and the reverse inhibitor valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve spring for wear and damage. Check the 4th clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Inspect the clutch clearance for the 4th clutch. Check the 4th accumulator piston, the O-ring, and the spring in the regulator valve body for wear and damage. Check for a stuck 4th/reverse air check valve in the main valve body.
Transmission does not shiftA/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defectiveInspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Check the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor installation. Inspect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor O-ring for wear and damage.
Excessive shock or engine rpm abnormally rises on all upshifts and downshiftsA/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective ATF temperature sensor defective Low ATF level ATF pump worn or binding Main regulator valve stuck or spring worn Foreign material in separator plate orifice 1st accumulator defective ATF strainer clogged Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrectInspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Check the speed sensor installation. Inspect the speed sensor O-ring for wear and damage. Inspect the ATF temperature sensor O-ring for wear and damage. Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler lines for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines. Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Improper alignment of the ATF pump and the torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak. Check the main regulator valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage. Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice. Check the 1st accumulator piston, the O-ring, and the spring in the manual valve body for wear and damage. Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter. Inspect the clutch clearance for all clutches.
Excessive shock or engine rpm abnormally rises on 1-2 upshift or 2-1 downshiftShift solenoid valve A defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective Transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) defective Foreign material in separator plate orifice A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A accumulator defective 2nd air check valve stuck 2nd clutch defective Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrectInspect the shift solenoid valve A function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST ). Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings. Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice. Check the 2nd clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Inspect the clutch clearance for the 2nd clutch. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A accumulator piston, the O-ring, and the springs in the secondary valve body for wear and damage. Check for a stuck 2nd air check valve in the torque converter housing.
Excessive shock or engine rpm abnormally rises on 2-3 upshift or 3-2 downshiftShift solenoid valve A defective Shift solenoid valve B defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective Transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) defective Foreign material in separator plate orifice A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A accumulator defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B accumulator defective 2nd air check valve stuck 3rd air check valve stuck 2nd clutch defective 3rd clutch defective Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrectInspect the shift solenoid valves A and B function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST ). Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings. Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice. Check the 2nd and 3rd clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST ). Inspect the clutch clearance for the 2nd and 3rd clutches. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B accumulator pistons, the O-rings, and the springs in the secondary valve body for wear and damage. Check for a stuck 2nd air check valve in the torque converter housing. Check for a stuck 3rd air check valve in the stator shaft support.
Excessive shock or engine rpm abnormally rises on 3-4 upshift or 4-3 downshiftShift solenoid valve B defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective Transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) defective Shift fork shaft stuck Foreign material in separator plate orifice Shift valve C defective Reverse inhibitor valve defective D inhibitor valve defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B accumulator defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C accumulator defective 3rd air check valve stuck 4th/reverse air check valve stuck 3rd clutch defective 4th clutch defective Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrectInspect the shift solenoid valve B function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST ). Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings. Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Check for a missing shift fork bolt on the shift fork shaft. Check the shift fork shaft detent for wear and damage. Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice. Check shift valve C, the reverse inhibitor valve, and the D inhibitor valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve spring for wear and damage. Check the 3rd and 4th clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST ). Inspect the clutch clearance for the 3rd and 4th clutches. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C accumulator pistons, the O-rings, and the springs in the secondary valve body for wear and damage. Check for a stuck 3rd air check valve in the stator shaft support. Check for a stuck 4th /reverse air check valve in the main valve body.
Excessive shock or engine rpm abnormally rises on 4-5 upshift or 5-4 downshiftShift solenoid valve A defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective Transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) defective Shift fork shaft stuck Foreign material in separator plate orifice. Shift valve C defective Reverse inhibitor valve defective D inhibitor valve defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A accumulator defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C accumulator defective 4th/reverse air check valve stuck 5th air check valve stuck 4th clutch defective 5th clutch defective Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrectInspect the shift solenoid valve A and B function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST ). Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings. Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Check for a missing shift fork bolt on the shift fork shaft. Check the shift fork shaft detent for wear and damage. Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice. Check shift valve C, the reverse inhibitor valve, and the D inhibitor valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve spring for wear and damage. Check the 4th and 5th clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST ). Inspect the clutch clearance for the 4th and 5th clutches. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and C accumulator pistons, the O-rings, and the springs in the secondary valve body for wear and damage. Check for a stuck 4th/reverse air check valve in the main valve body. Check for a stuck 5th air check valve in the torque converter housing.
Excessive shock or engine rpm abnormally rises on 5-6 upshift or 6-5 downshiftShift solenoid valve A defective Shift solenoid valve B defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective Transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) defective Foreign material in separator plate orifice A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A accumulator defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B accumulator defective 5th air check valve stuck 6th air check valve stuck 5th clutch defective 6th clutch defective Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrectInspect the shift solenoid valves A and B function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST ). Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings. Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice. Check the 5th and 6th clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST ). Inspect the clutch clearance for the 5th and 6th clutches. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B accumulator pistons, the O-rings, and the springs in the secondary valve body for wear and damage. Check for a stuck 5th air check valve in the torque converter housing. Check for a stuck 6th air check valve in the stator shaft support.
Noise from transmission in all shift lever positionsATF pump worn or binding Lubrication regulator valve defective Lubrication shift valve defective Final gears worn or damaged Idler gears worn or damaged Thrust washers seized, worn or damaged Mainshaft, countershaft, secondary shaft, and third shaft bearings worn or damagedCheck the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Improper alignment of the ATF pump and the torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak. Inspect the differential pinion gears for wear. If the differential pinion gears are worn, replace the differential assembly, replace the ATF strainer, thoroughly clean the transmission, and clean the ATF cooler lines. Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter. Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will cause ATF pump seizure, use the proper tools. Install the main seal flush with the torque converter housing. If you push it into the torque converter housing until it bottoms out, it will block the fluid return passage and result in damage. Check the ball bearing for the mainshaft, the countershaft, the secondary shaft, and the third shaft. Inspect the mainshaft, the countershaft, the secondary shaft, the third shaft, and idler gears for wear and damage. Check the thrust washers on all shafts for seizure, wear, and damage. Check the lubrication regulator valve and the lubrication shift valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage.
Noise from transmission in D and SA/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defectiveInspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ).
Noise from transmission in RReverse gears worn or damagedInspect the reverse idler gear shaft/holder for wear and damage. Inspect the reverse selector gear teeth chamfers, and inspect the engagement teeth chamfers of the third shaft reverse gear and the reverse selector hub. Replace the reverse gears and the reverse selector if they are worn or damaged. If the transmission makes clicking, grinding, or whirring noises, also replace the third shaft 4th gear, the reverse idler gear, the mainshaft 3rd gear, and the countershaft 2nd gear.
Vehicle does not accelerate above 34 mph (55 km/h)Torque converter one-way clutch defectiveCheck the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Replace the torque converter.
Vibration in all shift lever positionsDrive plate defective or transmission incorrectly installed Torque converter clutch piston defective Torque converter defective ATF pump worn or binding Transmission or engine mount defective Low engine output (horsepower)Check for an incorrectly installed transmission, and check the drive plate for wear and damage. Replace the drive plate if it is worn or damaged. Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Improper alignment of the ATF pump and the torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak. Inspect the differential pinion gears for wear. If the differential pinion gears are worn, replace the differential assembly, replace the ATF strainer, thoroughly clean the transmission, and clean the ATF cooler lines. Replace the torque converter. Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will cause ATF pump seizure, use the proper tools. Inspect the transmission or engine mount. Check the valve adjustment. Check the engine control system.
Shift lever does not operate smoothlyTransmission range switch defective or out of adjustment Shift cable broken, binding, or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn Manual valve defective Selector control shaft worn or damagedInspect the transmission range switch. If the transmission range switch fails the inspection, replace the switch. If the inspection is OK, check for proper transmission range switch installation, and adjust the shift cable. Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever. Check the manual valve in the main valve body for wear and damage, and check the manual lever guide pin for wear and damage.
Transmission does not shift into PShift cable broken, binding, or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn Park mechanism defectiveCheck for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever. Inspect the countershaft and the secondary shaft for wear and damage. Inspect the park mechanism at the parking holder and park gears.
Torque converter clutch does not disengageShift solenoid valve C defective Drive plate defective or transmission incorrectly installed Torque converter clutch piston defective Torque converter defective Lock-up shift valve defectiveInspect the shift solenoid valve C function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE C TEST AND REPLACEMENT ). Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings. Check for an incorrectly installed transmission, and check the drive plate for wear and damage. Replace the drive plate if it is worn or damaged. Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Replace the torque converter. Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will cause ATF pump seizure, use the proper tools. Check the lock-up shift valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage.
Torque converter clutch does not operate smoothlyA/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D defective Drive plate defective or transmission incorrectly installed Torque converter clutch piston defective Torque converter defective Torque converter regulator valve defective Lock-up control valve defectiveInspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Check for an incorrectly installed transmission, and check the drive plate for wear and damage. Replace the drive plate if it is worn or damaged. Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Replace the torque converter. Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will cause ATF pump seizure, use the proper tools. Check the torque converter regulator valve and the lock-up control valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage.
Torque converter clutch does not engageShift solenoid valve C defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D defective Drive plate defective or transmission incorrectly installed Torque converter clutch piston defective Torque converter defective Torque converter regulator valve defective Lock-up shift valve defective Lock-up control valve defectiveInspect the shift solenoid valve C function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE C TEST AND REPLACEMENT ). Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings. Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A, B, C, AND D TEST ). Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Check for an incorrectly installed transmission, and check the drive plate for wear and damage. Replace the drive plate if it is worn or damaged. Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Replace the torque converter. Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will cause ATF pump seizure, use the proper tools. Check the torque converter regulator valve and the lock-up control valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage. Check the lock-up shift valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage.
A/T gear position indicator does not indicate shift lever positionsTransmission range switch defective or out of adjustment Shift cable broken, binding, or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is wornInspect the transmission range switch. If the transmission range switch fails the inspection, replace the switch. If the inspection is OK, check for proper transmission range switch installation, and adjust the shift cable. Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.
Speedometer and odometer do not workOutput shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defectiveCheck the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor installation. Inspect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor O-ring for wear and damage. Check for a poor connection at the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor.
Engine does not startTransmission range switch defective or out of adjustment Shift cable broken, binding, or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn Drive plate defective or transmission incorrectly installed Torque converter clutch piston defective Torque converter defective ATF pump worn or binding Mainshaft worn or damagedInspect the transmission range switch. If the transmission range switch fails the inspection, replace the switch. If the inspection is OK, check for proper transmission range switch installation, and adjust the shift cable. Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever. Check for an incorrectly installed transmission, and check the drive plate for wear and damage. Replace the drive plate if it is worn or damaged. Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Improper alignment of the ATF pump and the torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak. Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will cause ATF pump seizure, use the proper tools. Replace the torque converter. Inspect the mainshaft.
Engine stalls when shifted to D from NShift solenoid valve C defective Drive plate defective or transmission incorrectly installed Torque converter clutch piston defective Torque converter defective Torque converter regulator valve defective Lock-up shift valve defective Lock-up control valve defectiveInspect the shift solenoid valve C function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE C TEST AND REPLACEMENT ). Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings. Check for an incorrectly installed transmission, and check the drive plate for wear and damage. Replace the drive plate if it is worn or damaged. Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Improper alignment of the ATF pump and the torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak. Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will cause ATF pump seizure, use the proper tools. Replace the torque converter. Check the torque converter regulator valve and the lock-up control valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage. Check the lock-up shift valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage.
Engine stops when shifted to R from NDrive plate defective or transmission incorrectly installed Torque converter clutch piston defective Torque converter defective Torque converter regulator valve defective Lock-up shift valve defective Lock-up control valve defectiveCheck for an incorrectly installed transmission, and check the drive plate for wear and damage. Replace the drive plate if it is worn or damaged. Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ). Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ). Improper alignment of the ATF pump and the torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak. Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will cause ATF pump seizure, use the proper tools. Replace the torque converter. Check the torque converter regulator valve and the lock-up control valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage. Check the lock-up shift valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage.
No engine brakingShift cable broken, binding, or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defectiveCheck for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever. Check the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor installation. Inspect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor O-ring for wear and damage.
Engine does not rev to high rpm, and the transmission upshifts at low rpm (engine at normal operating temperature)VTEC rocker arms defective Low engine output (horsepower)Check the engine rocker arms (see VTEC ROCKER ARM TEST ). Check the fuel pressure (see FUEL PRESSURE TEST ).
HDS does not communicate with the PCMDLC circuitTroubleshoot the DLC circuit (see DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).

Scheme 13

Scheme 13: Component Location Index

Scheme 14

Scheme 14

General Description

The automatic transmission is a transverse-mounted five-shaft design with an electronically controlled hydraulic circuit that provides six forward speeds and one in reverse. Engine output is transmitted through the torque converter, a combination of shafts which hold gears and clutches and a differential that transmits power to the driving wheels. This model also has a transfer assembly which transmits power to the SH-AWD differential.

Shafts, Gears, and Clutches

The clutches and gears are installed on the input shaft (mainshaft), the secondary shaft, the third shaft, and the idler gear shaft. These gears are in constant mesh with those on the output shaft (countershaft). When specific gears are engaged by the clutches, power is transmitted through the mainshaft, to the secondary shaft, the third shaft, the idler gear shaft, and/or the countershaft, then to the final driven gear of the differential to provide drive.

Shift Control Mechanism

To perform hydraulic control, shift control, and lock-up control of the automatic transmission, the PCM controls shift solenoid valves A, B, and C, line pressure solenoid valve A, and automatic transmission (A/T) clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, C, and D. The PCM switches each shift solenoid valve ON and OFF. This changes the positions of the shift valves in the valve bodies which open and close ports to send hydraulic pressure to the appropriate clutch. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, C, and D control the clutch pressure regulated by each of them, which allows smooth shifts and lock-up of the torque converter.

Electronic Control

Shifting and lock-up are achieved by a system of solenoid valves driven by the PCM, which controls ATF flow through various valves in the valve bodies to select the appropriate gears for all driving conditions.

Hydraulic Control

The valve bodies consist of the main valve body, the regulator valve body, the secondary valve body, the stator shaft support, and the manual valve body. They are installed to the torque converter housing. Fluid regulated by the regulator valve passes through the manual valve to the various control valves. All the clutches receive fluid from the shaft internal hydraulic circuit. Also, the hydraulic control body is adapted to the secondary valve body, which includes the main shift hydraulic circuit, the solenoid valve, the hydraulic switch, etc. to shorten the fluid passage and optimize the hydraulic pressure.

Torque Converter

The torque converter is connected to the flywheel. It consists of an impeller (pump), turbine, stator, and torque converter clutch piston, which uses ATF to transmit engine power to the input shaft (mainshaft). Around the outside of the torque converter housing, the starter ring gear is installed, which is used to start the engine.

Lock-Up Mechanism

The lock-up causes the input shaft (mainshaft) to rotate at the same speed as the engine crankshaft by engaging the torque converter cover with the turbine by the torque converter clutch. Together with the hydraulic control, the PCM optimizes the timing and degree of lock-up. The lock-up mechanism operates in D (during accelerating: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears/during decelerating: 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears), S with automatic shift mode (during accelerating: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears/during decelerating: 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears), and S with sequential sportshift mode (during accelerating: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears/during decelerating: 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears). The torque converter clutch is in the torque converter. The multi-plate torque converter clutch increases the torque capacity and extends the lock-up area, improving fuel economy.

Gear Selection

The shift lever has five positions; P: PARK, R: REVERSE, N: NEUTRAL, D: DRIVE 1st through 6th gear ranges with automatic shift mode and D-paddle shift mode, and S: DRIVE 1st through 5th gear ranges with automatic shift mode and 1st through 6th gear ranges with sequential sportshift mode.

PositionDescription
P: PARKFront wheels locked; the park pawl engaged with the park gear on the countershaft. All clutches are released.
R: REVERSEReverse; the reverse selector engaged with the third shaft 4th gear and the 4th clutch engaged.
N: NEUTRALAll clutches are released.
D: DRIVE (1st through 6th gear)General driving; starts off in 1st gear, shifts to 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, then 6th gear, depending on the vehicle speed and the throttle position. Downshifts through 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st gear on deceleration to stop. The lock-up mechanism operates in 1st through 6th gears while accelerating, and in 2nd through 6th gears while decelerating.
S: DRIVEAutomatic shift mode (1st through 5th gear)Used for rapid acceleration at highway speeds and general driving, up-hill and down-hill driving; starts off in 1st gear, shifts to 2nd, 3rd, 4th, then 5th gear, depending on the vehicle speed and the throttle position. Downshifts through 4th, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st gear on deceleration to stop. The lock-up mechanism operates in 1st through 5th gears while accelerating, and in 2nd through 5th gears while decelerating.
Sequential sportshift mode (1st through 6th gear)Manual gear shift driving; the vehicle can start off in 1st gear, and does not upshift automatically. The vehicle can also start off in 2nd gear, and does not upshift and downshift automatically. Downshifts automatically to 1st on deceleration to stop. The lock-up mechanism operates in 1st through 6th gears while accelerating, and in 2nd through 6th gears while decelerating.

Starting the engine is possible only in P and N because of a neutral-safety switch built into the transmission range switch.

The A/T gear position indicator in the gauge control module shows which shift lever position has been selected.

Shift Indicator

When you operate the paddle shift switch, the shift indicator in the gauge control module displays the gear selected. The shift indicator also displays the gear selected in the D-paddle shift mode and the sequential sportshift mode.

Transfer Assembly

The transfer assembly consists of the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft assembly, the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear), and the companion flange. The transfer assembly is on the rear side of the transmission, beside the differential. The transfer drive gear on the differential drives the transfer output shaft in the transmission. The transfer output shaft in the transmission is connected to the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft assembly by splines. Power is transmitted from the transfer drive gear on the differential to the rear differential via the transfer assembly and the propeller shaft.

Clutches and Gears

The six speed automatic transmission applies hydraulic pressure to the clutches to engage or disengage the gears. When hydraulic pressure is introduced into the clutch drum, the clutch piston moves and presses the steel plates and the clutch discs. Power is then transmitted through the engaged clutch pack to its gear mounted on the shaft. Likewise, when the hydraulic pressure is bled from the clutch drum, the piston releases the steel plates and the clutch discs. Then the steel plates rotate with the clutch drum, and the clutch discs rotate with gear on the shaft. The clutch discs are released from the steel plates. This allows the clutch disc to spin independently, transmitting no power.

1st Clutch

The 1st clutch engages/disengages 1st gear, and is located at the right end of the secondary shaft. The 1st clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure through the secondary shaft by a circuit connected to the internal hydraulic circuit.

2nd Clutch

The 2nd clutch engages/disengages 2nd gear, and is located at the left end of the secondary shaft. The 2nd clutch is joined back-to-back to the 5th clutch. The 2nd clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure through the secondary shaft by a circuit connected to the internal hydraulic circuit.

3rd Clutch

The 3rd clutch engages/disengages 3rd gear, and is located at the left end of the mainshaft. The 3rd clutch is joined back-to-back to the 6th clutch. The 3rd clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure through the mainshaft by a circuit connected to the internal hydraulic circuit.

4th Clutch

The 4th clutch engages/disengages 4th gear, and is located at the right end of the third shaft. The 4th clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure through the third shaft by a circuit connected to the internal hydraulic circuit. The vehicle also moves backward when the 4th clutch is engaged while the reverse selector hub engages with the reverse gear.

5th Clutch

The 5th clutch engages/disengages 5th gear, and is located at the left end of the secondary shaft. The 5th clutch is joined back-to-back to the 2nd clutch. The 5th clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure through the secondary shaft by a circuit connected to the internal hydraulic circuit.

6th Clutch

The 6th clutch engages/disengages 6th gear, and is located at the left end of the mainshaft. The 6th clutch is joined back-to-back to the 3rd clutch. The 6th clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure through the mainshaft by a circuit connected to the internal hydraulic circuit.

One-Way Clutch

The one-way clutch is located between the countershaft 1st gear and the park gear. The park gear is splined with the countershaft. The countershaft 1st gear engages the outer race surface of the one-way clutch, and the park gear engages the inner race surface of the one-way clutch. The one-way clutch locks when power is transmitted from the secondary shaft 1st gear to the countershaft 1st gear. The 1st clutch and 1st gear remain engaged in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gear ranges in D or S. However, the one-way clutch disengages when the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, or 6th clutches and gears are applied in D or S. This is because the rotational speed of the countershaft exceeds that of 1st gear, which causes the one-way clutch to free-wheel with the 1st clutch still engaged.

Scheme 15

Scheme 15: Transmission Cutaway View

Gear operation

Gears on the mainshaft

  1. 3rd gear is engaged/disengaged with the mainshaft by the 3rd clutch.
  2. 6th gear is engaged/disengaged with the mainshaft by the 6th clutch.
  3. 4th gear is splined with the mainshaft and rotates with the mainshaft.

Gears on the secondary shaft

  1. 1st gear is engaged/disengaged with the secondary shaft by the 1st clutch.
  2. 2nd gear is engaged/disengaged with the secondary shaft by the 2nd clutch.
  3. 5th gear is engaged/disengaged with the secondary shaft by the 5th clutch.
  4. Idler gear is splined with the secondary shaft, and rotates with the secondary shaft.

Gears on the third shaft

  1. 4th gear is engaged/disengaged with the third shaft by the 4th clutch.
  2. Reverse selector hub is splined with the third shaft and rotates with the third shaft.
  3. Reverse selector on the reverse selector hub switches between the reverse gear and 6th gear.

Gears on the countershaft

  1. Final drive gear is integral with the countershaft.
  2. 2nd gear, 5th gear, and park gear are splined with the countershaft, and rotate with the countershaft.
  3. 1st gear is engaged with the park gear splined with the countershaft by the one-way clutch when accelerating. It is disengaged from the park gear by the one-way clutch when decelerating.

Gears on the idler gear shaft

  1. Idler gear is press-fitted with the idler gear shaft, and rotates with the idler gear shaft.
  2. Idler gear is engaged with the mainshaft 4th gear and the secondary shaft idler gear, and transmits the mainshaft rotation to the secondary shaft.

P Position

Hydraulic pressure is not applied to the clutches; power is not transmitted to the countershaft. The countershaft is locked by the park pawl interlocking the park gear on the countershaft.

N Position

Engine output transmitted from the mainshaft drives the mainshaft 4th gear, the third shaft 4th gear, the idler gear shaft idler gear, and the secondary shaft idler gear, but since hydraulic pressure is not applied to the clutches output is not transmitted to the countershaft. In this position, the position of the reverse selector differs according to whether the shift lever shifted from D or R

Scheme 16

Scheme 16: N Position
  1. When shifted from D, the reverse selector engages with the third shaft 6th gear and the reverse selector hub and the 6th gear engages with the third shaft.
  2. When shifted from R, the reverse selector engages with the third shaft reverse gear and the reverse selector hub and the reverse gear engages with the third shaft.

D Position and S Position with Automatic Shift Mode

In D, the optimum gear is automatically selected from 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears; and 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears in S with automatic shift mode according to conditions between the accelerator pedal command or position (engine loading) and the vehicle speed.

Scheme 17

Scheme 17: In 1st Gear
  1. Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 1st clutch, then the 1st clutch engages the secondary shaft 1st gear with the secondary shaft.
  2. Mainshaft rotation is transmitted to the mainshaft 4th gear splined with the mainshaft.
  3. The mainshaft 4th gear drives the secondary shaft idler gear splined with the secondary shaft and the secondary shaft via the idler gear shaft idler gear.
  4. The secondary shaft and the secondary shaft 1st gear engaged by the 1st clutch, and the secondary shaft 1st gear drives the countershaft 1st gear.
  5. The countershaft 1st gear drives the park gear splined with the countershaft via the one-way clutch.
  6. Power is transmitted from the countershaft to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear.
  7. As the final driven gear turns the differential assembly, power is transmitted through the transfer drive gear to the transfer output shaft that drives the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear).

Scheme 18

Scheme 18: In 2nd Gear
  1. Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 2nd clutch, then the 2nd clutch engages the secondary shaft 2nd gear with the secondary shaft.
  2. Mainshaft rotation is transmitted to the mainshaft 4th gear splined with the mainshaft.
  3. The mainshaft 4th gear drives the secondary shaft idler gear splined to the secondary shaft and the secondary shaft via the idler gear shaft idler gear.
  4. The secondary shaft and the secondary shaft 2nd gear engaged by the 2nd clutch, and the secondary shaft 2nd gear drives the countershaft 2nd gear splined with the countershaft and the countershaft.
  5. Power is transmitted from the countershaft to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear.
  6. As the final driven gear turns the differential assembly, power is transmitted through the transfer drive gear to the transfer output shaft that drives the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear).
  7. Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 1st clutch, but since the rotation speed of the countershaft exceeds that of 1st gear, power output from 1st gear is cut off at the one-way clutch.

Scheme 19

Scheme 19: In 3rd Gear
  1. Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 3rd clutch, then the 3rd clutch engages the mainshaft 3rd gear with the mainshaft.
  2. Mainshaft rotation is transmitted from the mainshaft 3rd gear engaged with the 3rd clutch to the countershaft 2nd gear splined with the countershaft.
  3. Power is transmitted from the countershaft to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear.
  4. As the final driven gear turns the differential assembly, power is transmitted through the transfer drive gear to the transfer output shaft that drives the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear).
  5. Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 1st clutch, but since the rotation speed of the countershaft exceeds that of 1st gear, power output from 1st gear is cut off at the one-way clutch.

Scheme 20

Scheme 20: In 4th Gear
  1. Hydraulic pressure is applied to the D inhibitor valve to engage the reverse selector with the third shaft 6th gear while the shift lever is in the forward range (D and S).
  2. Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 4th clutch, then the 4th clutch engages the third shaft 4th gear with the third shaft.
  3. Mainshaft rotation is transmitted to the third shaft 4th gear via the mainshaft 4th gear splined with the mainshaft.
  4. Rotation of the third shaft 4th gear is transmitted to the third shaft 6th gear from the reverse selector hub via the reverse selector.
  5. The third shaft 6th gear drives the countershaft 5th gear splined with the countershaft and the countershaft via the mainshaft 6th gear.
  6. Power is transmitted from the countershaft to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear.
  7. As the final driven gear turns the differential assembly, power is transmitted through the transfer drive gear to the transfer output shaft that drives the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear).
  8. Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 1st clutch, but since the rotation speed of the countershaft exceeds that of 1st gear, power output from 1st gear is cut off at the one-way clutch.

Scheme 21

Scheme 21: In 5th Gear
  1. Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 5th clutch, then the 5th clutch engages the secondary shaft 5th gear with the secondary shaft.
  2. Mainshaft rotation is transmitted to the mainshaft 4th gear splined with the mainshaft.
  3. The mainshaft 4th gear drives the secondary shaft idler gear splined with the secondary shaft and the secondary shaft via the idler gear shaft idler gear.
  4. The secondary shaft and the secondary shaft 5th gear engaged by the 5th clutch, and the secondary shaft 5th gear drives the countershaft 5th gear splined with the countershaft and the countershaft.
  5. Power is transmitted from the countershaft to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear.
  6. As the final driven gear turns the differential assembly, power is transmitted through the transfer drive gear to the transfer output shaft that drives the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear).
  7. Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 1st clutch, but since the rotation speed of the countershaft exceeds that of 1st gear, power output from 1st gear is cut off at the one-way clutch.

Scheme 22

Scheme 22: In 6th Gear
  1. Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 6th clutch, then the 6th clutch engages the mainshaft 6th gear with the mainshaft.
  2. Mainshaft rotation is transmitted from the mainshaft 6th gear engaged with the 6th clutch to the countershaft 5th gear splined with the countershaft.
  3. Power is transmitted from the countershaft to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear.
  4. As the final driven gear turns the differential assembly, power is transmitted through the transfer drive gear to the transfer output shaft that drives the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear).
  5. Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 1st clutch, but since the rotation speed of the countershaft exceeds that of 1st gear, power output from 1st gear is cut off at the one-way clutch.

Scheme 23

Scheme 23: R Position
  1. Hydraulic pressure is applied to the D inhibitor valve to engage the reverse selector with the third shaft reverse gear while the shift lever is in R.
  2. Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 4th clutch, then the 4th clutch engages the third shaft 4th gear with the third shaft.
  3. Mainshaft rotation is transmitted to the third shaft 4th gear via the mainshaft 4th gear splined with the mainshaft.
  4. Rotation of the third shaft 4th gear is transmitted from the reverse selector hub that rotates with the third shaft to the third shaft reverse gear, via the reverse selector.
  5. The third shaft reverse gear drives the mainshaft 3rd gear via the reverse idler gear.
  6. The mainshaft 3rd gear drives the countershaft 2nd gear splined with the countershaft and the countershaft.
  7. The rotation direction of the countershaft is changed by the reverse idler gear.
  8. Power is transmitted from the countershaft to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear.
  9. As the final driven gear turns the differential assembly, power is transmitted through the transfer drive gear to the transfer output shaft that drives the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear).

The electronic control system consists of the PCM, sensors, and eight solenoid valves.

Functional Diagram

The PCM receives input signals from the sensors, switches, and other control units, processes data, and outputs signals for the engine control system and the A/T control system. The A/T control system includes shift control, clutch pressure control, lock-up control, and A/T system hydraulic control. The PCM switches the shift solenoid valves and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves ON and OFF in a specific sequence to control gear selection and torque converter clutch lock-up. It also controls the appropriate operating hydraulic pressure to the automatic transmission.

Scheme 24

Scheme 24: Functional Diagram

Shift Control

The PCM instantly determines which gear should be selected by various inputs from sensors and switches, and it actuates the solenoid valves to control gear selection.

Shift solenoid valve

Shift solenoid valves A, B, and C switch to the hydraulic pressure supply circuit to the clutch. Shift solenoid valves A, B, and C are normally closed (ON-OPEN/OFF-CLOSE); the normally closed solenoid valve port opens to allow ATF to pass through when the PCM turns it ON, and the port closes, blocking fluid flow when turned OFF.

A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve

A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, C, and D apply hydraulic pressure to each clutch via the hydraulic valve body circuit. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D supplies hydraulic pressure to the torque converter clutch. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, C, and D are normally closed (ON-OPEN/OFF-CLOSE); the normally closed solenoid valve port opens to allow ATF to pass through when the PCM turns it ON, and the port closes, blocking fluid flow when turned OFF. These solenoid valves are controlled by the current and are duty controlled depending on the vehicle speed and the throttle position.

Line pressure solenoid valve

Line pressure solenoid valve A controls the hydraulic pressure in the hydraulic control system valve bodies of the automatic transmission. Line pressure solenoid valve A is normally closed (ON-OPEN/OFF-CLOSE); the normally closed solenoid valve port opens to allow ATF to pass through when the PCM turns it ON, and the port closes, blocking fluid flow when turned OFF.

The combination of driving signals to solenoid valves for each gear are in the following table.

Shift Lever PositionPRND, S
1st2nd3rd4th5th6th
Shift solenoid valve AONOFFONONONOFFOFFOFFOFF
Shift solenoid valve BOFFOFFOFFONONONON or OFFON or OFFOFF
Shift solenoid valve CONONOFFON or OFFON or OFFON or OFFON or OFFON or OFFON or OFF
Line pressure solenoid valve AON or OFFON or OFFON or OFFON or OFFON or OFFON or OFFON or OFFON or OFFON or OFF
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve AOFFOFFOFFOFFONOFFOFFONOFF
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve BOFFOFFOFFOFFOFFONOFFOFFON
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve COFFOFFOFFOFFOFFOFFONOFFOFF
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve DOFFONOFFON or OFFON or OFFON or OFFON or OFFON or OFFON or OFF

Shift Control - Grade Logic Control

The grade logic control system is used to control shifting in D, and in S with automatic shift mode. The PCM compares actual driving conditions with programmed driving conditions, based on the input signal from the throttle position sensor, the engine coolant temperature sensor, the barometric pressure sensor, the brake pedal position switch, and the transmission range switch to switch shifting control from the normal control to the ascending or descending control when the PCM determines that the vehicle is ascending a slope or being driven in the rain.

Scheme 25

Scheme 25: Shift Control - Grade Logic Control

Grade Logic Control: Ascending Control

When the PCM determines that the vehicle is climbing a hill in D and in S with automatic shift mode, the system extends the engagement area of 2nd gear, 3rd gear, 4th gear, and 5th gear to prevent the transmission from frequently shifting between 2nd and 3rd gears, between 3rd and 4th gears, between 4th and 5th gears, and between 5th and 6th gears, so the vehicle can run smoothly and have more power when needed.

Note. Shift commands stored in the PCM between 2nd and 3rd gears, between 3rd and 4th gears, between 4th and 5th gears, and between 5th and 6th gears, enable the PCM to automatically select the most suitable gear based on the steepness of the grade.

Scheme 26

Scheme 26: Grade Logic Control: Ascending Control

Grade Logic Control: Descending Control

When the PCM determines that the vehicle is going down a hill in D, and in S with automatic shift mode, the upshift speed from 5th to 6th gear, from 4th to 5th gear, from 3rd to 4th gear, and from 2nd to 3rd (when the throttle is closed) becomes higher than the set speed for flat road driving to extend the 5th gear, 4th gear, 3rd gear, and 2nd gear driving areas. This, in combination with engine braking from the deceleration lock-up, achieves smooth driving when the vehicle is descending. There are descending modes with different 5th gear, 4th gear, 3rd gear, and 2nd gear driving areas based on the steepness of the grade stored in the PCM. When the vehicle is in 6th, 5th, or 4th gear, and the vehicle is decelerating while applying the brakes on a steep hill, the transmission downshifts to a lower gear. When you accelerate, the transmission then returns to a higher gear from the current position.

Deceleration Control

When the vehicle goes around a corner and needs to decelerate first and then accelerate, the PCM goes into the deceleration control mode to reduce the number of times the transmission shifts. When the vehicle is decelerating from speeds above 27 mph (43 km/h), the PCM anticipates upcoming acceleration, and shifts the transmission from 4th to 3rd earlier than normal.

Shift-Hold Control

Shift-hold control maintains transmission gear position during cornering to avoid frequently shifting. When the vehicle is cornering, the PCM extends the engagement of 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th to prevent the transmission from frequently shifting between 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears. When the PCM determines that the vehicle is cornering by the accelerator pedal position, the vehicle speed, and the lateral G-force estimate from the rpm difference between each wheel, it delays the upshift from 3rd to 4th, 4th to 5th, and 5th to 6th gears, which improves the engine output and the engine braking. The transmission resumes the normal upshift pattern after the PCM determines that normal driving has resumed.

Scheme 27

Scheme 27: Shift-Hold Control

Shift Control - Manual Shift Mode

The transmission is equipped with a D-paddle shift mode in D, and with a sequential sportshift mode in S.

Either mode can be activated by pressing the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) or the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) while driving with the shift lever is in D and S.

D-Paddle Shift Mode

To engage the D-paddle shift mode, press either of the steering wheel mounted paddle shifters while driving in D. In this mode, the transmission can downshift by pressing the paddle shifter -, or upshift by pressing the paddle shifter +. Each time the transmission is shifted using the paddles, the shift indicator in the gauge control module displays the current position. The display turns off when the transmission upshifts or downshifts automatically while coasting. The transmission stays in 6th gear if the paddle shifter + is pressed when driving in 6th gear, and the shift indicator displays "6" for 2 seconds, then goes off. The transmission stays in 1st gear if the paddle shifter - is pressed when driving in 1st gear, and the shift indicator displays "1" for 2 seconds, then goes off. The transmission stays in the current gear and does not upshift to the next higher gear if the paddle shifter + is pressed while driving below the minimum allowable speed, and the shift indicator blinks the number of the next higher gear several times, then returns to the number of the current gear.

Scheme 28

Scheme 28: D-Paddle Shift Mode

S Position Automatic Shift Mode and Sequential Sportshift Mode

The S position has two shifting modes; the automatic shift mode and the sequential sportshift mode. In the S position automatic shift mode, the transmission upshifts and downshifts automatically from 1st through 5th gear, if the paddle shifters are not pressed. When the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) or the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) is pressed, the automatic shift mode is canceled and the sequential sportshift mode comes into operation. The shift indicator displays the number of the selected gear. In the sequential sportshift mode, the driver can shift up and down manually from 1st through 6th gear by using the paddle shifters, much like a manual transmission. The paddle shifters are installed on the back of the steering wheel, and the driver can shift gears by pressing the paddle shifters without taking either hand off the steering wheel. In the sequential sportshift mode, the transmission must be shifted up and down by pressing the paddle shifters.

However, if the vehicle is coasting at a speed that would cause the engine to over-rev by downshifting, the transmission will not shift when the paddle shifter - is pressed. The shift indicator blinks the number of the selected gear position several times, then returns to the current gear. If the vehicle speed reaches an appropriate speed while the shift indicator is blinking, the transmission downshifts and the shift indicator displays the selected gear. Likewise, if the vehicle is driving below an appropriate speed to upshift when the paddle shifter + is pressed, the transmission will not shift. The shift indicator blinks the number of the selected gear several times, and then returns to the number of the current gear. If the vehicle speed reaches an appropriate upshift speed while the shift indicator is blinking, the transmission upshifts and the shift indicator displays the selected gear.

The sequential sportshift mode has automatic downshifting areas so the vehicle can run smoothly with more power to cope with upcoming acceleration. When coasting in 6th gear, 5th gear, or 4th gear, the transmission downshifts to the next lower gear if the vehicle slows down to the programmed speed, or by pressing the brake pedal. When the transmission decelerates to a stop, the transmission shifts to 1st gear automatically. The transmission can be shifted to 2nd gear by pressing the paddle shifter + while the vehicle is stopped, and the vehicle can start off in 2nd gear. The sequential sportshift mode is canceled when moving the shift lever to any position other than S.

Scheme 29

Scheme 29: S Position Automatic Shift Mode and Sequential Sportshift Mode

Clutch Pressure Control

The PCM actuates A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, C, and D to control the clutch pressure. When shifting between gears or during lock-up, the clutch pressure is regulated by A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, C, and D engages and disengages the clutch smoothly. The PCM receives input signals from the various sensors and switches, then processes the data, and outputs current to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, C, and D.

Scheme 30

Scheme 30: Clutch Pressure Control

Lock-Up Control

Shift solenoid valve C and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D control the hydraulic pressure to switch the lock-up shift valve and lock-up ON and OFF. When the PCM actuates shift solenoid valve C and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D ON, lock-up starts. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D applies and regulates hydraulic pressure to the lock-up control valve to control the amount of lock-up. The lock-up mechanism operates in D (during accelerating: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears/during decelerating: 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears), S with automatic shift mode (during accelerating: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears/during decelerating: 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears), and S with sequential sportshift mode (during accelerating: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears /during decelerating; 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears).

Scheme 31

Scheme 31: Lock-Up Control

Scheme 32

Scheme 32: PCM A/T Control System Electrical Connections

Scheme 33

Scheme 33: PCM A/T Control System Inputs and Outputs at PCM connector A ([]) (49P)
Terminal numberWire colorTerminal nameDescriptionSignal
A1PURVBSOL2 (POWER SOURCE FOR SOLENOID VALVES)Power source for solenoid valvesWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode: battery voltage
A2PNKSLS (SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID)Drives shift lock solenoidWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode, in P, brake pedal pressed, and accelerator pedal released: about 0 V
A6REDMRLY (PGM-FI MAIN RELAY 1)Drives PGM-FI main relay 1With ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode: about 0 V With ignition switch in LOCK (0)/vehicle in OFF mode: battery voltage
A8LT GRNBKSW (BRAKE PEDAL POSITION SWITCH)Detects brake pedal position switch signalWith brake pedal released: about 0 V With brake pedal pressed: battery voltage
A16LT BLUATPP (TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH P POSITION)Detects transmission range switch P position signalIn P: about 0 V In any position other than P: battery voltage
A32ORNSCS (SERVICE CHECK SIGNAL)Detects service check signalWith service check signal shorted with the HDS: about 0 V With service check signal opened: about 5.0 V
A36BRNSUPP (PADDLE SHIFTER + (UPSHIFT SWITCH))Detects paddle shifter + (upshift switch) signalWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode and paddle shifter + (upshift switch) pressed: about 0 V With ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode and paddle shifter + (upshift switch) released: battery voltage
A37PURSDNP (PADDLE SHIFTER - (DOWNSHIFT SWITCH))Detects paddle shifter - (downshift switch) signalWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode and paddle shifter - (downshift switch) pressed: about 0 V With ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode and paddle shifter - (downshift switch) released: battery voltage
A48WHTF-CAN A H (F-CAN A COMMUNICATION SIGNAL HIGH)Sends and receives communication signalWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode: pulses
A49BLKF-CAN A L (F-CAN A COMMUNICATION SIGNAL LOW)Sends and receives communication signalWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode: pulses

Scheme 34

Scheme 34: PCM A/T Control System Inputs and Outputs at PCM connector B (delta) (49P)
Terminal numberWire colorTerminal nameDescriptionSignal
B1BLKPG2 (POWER GROUND)Ground circuit for PCMLess than 0.2 V at all times
B2BLK/YELVBSOL (POWER SOURCE FOR SOLENOID VALVES)Power source for solenoid valvesWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode: battery voltage
B3YEL/BLKIGP (POWER SOURCE)Power source for PCMWith ignition switch ON (ID/vehicle in ON mode: battery voltage
B10BRN/WHTLSB (A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE B)Drives A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve BWith ignition switch ON (Ill)/vehicle in ON mode: current controlled
B21GRN/REDLSC (A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C)Drives A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve CWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode: current controlled
B36YEL/REDVCC1 (SENSOR VOLTAGE)Provides sensor reference voltageWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode: about 5.0 V
B37REDNM (INPUT SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR)Detects input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor signalWith ignition switch ON (Ill)/vehicle in ON mode: about 0 V or about 5.0 V With engine running in N: pulses
B38BLUNC (OUTPUT SHAFT (COUNTERSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR)Detects output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor signalWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode: about 0 V or about 5.0 V With driving: pulses
B40BLKPG1 (POWER GROUND)Ground circuit for PCMLess than 0.2 V at all times
B41BRN/YELLG2 (LOGIC GROUND)Ground circuit for PCMLess than 0.2 V at all times
B42BLK/YELIG1 (IGNITION SIGNAL)Detects ignition signalWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode: battery voltage
B43BLK/WHTLSD (A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE D)Drives A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve DWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode: current controlled
B44YELPLA (LINE PRESSURE SOLENOID VALVE A)Drives line pressure solenoid valve AWith engine running in 1st, or reverse gears: about 0 V With engine running in any gears other than 1st, or reverse gears: battery voltage

Scheme 35

Scheme 35: PCM A/T Control System Inputs and Outputs at PCM connector C (o) (49P)
Terminal numberWire colorTerminal nameDescriptionSignal
C9GRN/WHTSHC (SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE C)Drives shift solenoid valve CWith engine running in N, D, and S during no lock-up condition: about 0 V With engine running in P, R, D, and S during lock-up condition: battery voltage
C12YEL/BLUVCC2 (SENSOR VOLTAGE)Provides sensor reference voltageWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode: about 5.0 V
C14WHT/GRNOP5SW (TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH D (5TH CLUTCH))Detects transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) signalWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode: Without 5th clutch pressure: about 5.0 V With 5th clutch pressure: about 0 V
C15GRN/REDSG6 (SENSOR GROUND)Sensor groundLess than 0.2 V at all times
C16GRN/YELSG2 (SENSOR GROUND)Sensor groundLess than 0.2 V at all times
C17YEL/GRNATPD (TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH D POSITION)Detects transmission range switch D position signalIn D: about 0 V In any position other than D: battery voltage
C18BLU/YELATPFWD (TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH FWD POSITION)Detects transmission range switch D and S position signalsIn D and S: about 0 V In any position other than D and S: battery voltage
C19RED/WHTATPRVS (TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH RVS POSITION)Detects transmission range switch R position signalIn R: about 0 V In any position other than R: battery voltage
C20BLU/YELSHA (SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE A)Drives shift solenoid valve AWith engine running in 1st and 2nd gears: battery voltage With engine running in any gear other than 1st and 2nd: about 0 V
C21REDLSA (A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A)Drives A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve AWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode: current controlled
C25WHTATPR (TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH R POSITION)Detects transmission range switch R position signalIn R: about 0 V In any position other than R: battery voltage
C26RED/BLKATPN (TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH N POSITION)Detects transmission range switch N position signalIn N: about 0 V In any position other than N: battery voltage
C27BLU/BLKOP2SW (TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH A (2ND CLUTCH))Detects transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) signalWith engine running: Without 2nd clutch pressure: about 5.0 V With 2nd clutch pressure: about 0 V
C28BLU/REDSHB (SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE B)Drives shift solenoid valve BWith engine running in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears (upshift condition): battery voltage With engine running in any gear other than 1st, 2nd, and 3rd (upshift condition): about 0 V
C31WHT/BLKOP6SW (TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH E (6TH CLUTCH))Detects transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) signalWith engine running: Without 6th clutch pressure: about 5.0 V With 6th clutch pressure: about 0 V
C33BLU/YELTATF (ATF TEMPERATURE SENSOR)Detects ATF temperature sensor signalWith ignition switch ON (II)/vehicle in ON mode: about 0.2-4.0 V (about 1.8 V at operating temperature, depending on ATF temperature)
C35WHT/BLUOPPLSW (LINE PRESSURE SWITCH)Detects line pressure switch signalWith engine running: Without line pressure: about 5.0 V With line pressure: about 0 V
C37BLU/YELOP4SW (TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH C (4TH CLUTCH))Detects transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) signalWith engine running: Without 4th clutch pressure: about 5.0 V With 4th clutch pressure: about 0 V
C38BLU/WHTOP3SW (TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH B (3RD CLUTCH))Detects transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) signalWith engine running: Without 3rd clutch pressure: about 5.0 V With 3rd clutch pressure: about 0 V
C41BRN/YELLG1 (LOGIC GROUND)Ground circuit for PCMLess than 0.2 V at all times
C46YELATPS (TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH S POSITION)Detects transmission switch S position signalIn S: about 0V In any position other than S: battery voltage

Hydraulic Controls

The valve bodies include the main valve body, the regulator valve body, the secondary valve body, the stator shaft support, and the manual valve body. The ATF pump is driven by splines on the end of the torque converter which is attached to the engine. Fluid flows through the main regulator valve to maintain specified pressure through the manual valve body, directing pressure to each of the clutches. The hydraulic control body is attached to the secondary valve body, which includes the main shift hydraulic circuit, the solenoid valves, the hydraulic pressure switches, etc. to shorten the fluid passage and optimize the hydraulic pressure. The secondary valve body has shift solenoid valves A and B, line pressure solenoid valve A, the line pressure switch, transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch), transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch), and automatic transmission (A/T) clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, C, and D, and is mounted to the transmission housing. Shift solenoid valve C is mounted to the torque converter housing.

Scheme 36

Scheme 36: Hydraulic Controls

Main Valve Body

The main valve body contains shift valve C, the D inhibitor valve, the reverse inhibitor valve, the lock-up shift valve, the lubrication regulator valve, the lubrication shift valve, the ATF pump drive gear, and the ATF pump driven gear. The primary function of the main valve body is to switch hydraulic pressure on and off to control the hydraulic control system.

Scheme 37

Scheme 37: Main Valve Body

Regulator Valve Body

The regulator valve body is located on the main valve body. The regulator valve body contains the main regulator valve, the cooler relief valve, the torque converter regulator valve, the lock-up control valve, the shift fork shaft, and the 4th accumulator.

Scheme 38

Scheme 38: Regulator Valve Body

Main Regulator Valve

The main regulator valve maintains constant hydraulic pressure from the ATF pump to the hydraulic control system, while also providing fluid to the torque converter and the lubrication system. Fluid from ATF pump flows through the 1 cavity and the 1' cavity of the main regulator valve. Then the fluid entered in the 1' cavity pushes the main regulator valve to the spring side, this movement uncovers the fluid ports to the torque converter and the lubrication system on the main regulator valve. The fluid flows out to the torque converter and the lubrication system, then the main regulator valve returns under spring force when the pressure in the 1' cavity of the main regulator valve is lowered below that in the 1 cavity, which covers the fluid ports to the torque converter and the lubrication system. According to the level of the hydraulic pressure through the 1' cavity, the position of the main regulator valve changes, and the amount of fluid from the 1 cavity through the torque converter changes. This operation is continued maintaining the line pressure.

Scheme 39

Scheme 39: Main Regulator Valve

Line Pressure Control during Low Loading

Both in D or S under low engine load condition after warming up the engine and in all ranges (P, R, N, D, or S) under the low ATF temperature condition, the PCM operates line pressure solenoid valve A, and switches the line pressure to a pressure that is lower than normal. This operation can reduce the friction in the transmission.

Scheme 40

Scheme 40: Line Pressure Control during Low Loading

The PCM turns line pressure solenoid valve A ON, and applies the hydraulic pressure to the PLA' cavity on the main regulator valve. When hydraulic pressure is applied to the PLA' cavity, the main regulator valve is pushed to the spring side. This operation reduces the drain port of the main regulator valve, and causes the line pressure to be lower than normal.

Scheme 41

Scheme 41

Line Pressure Control during High Loading

Increases in hydraulic pressure according to torque are regulated by the main regulator valve using stator torque reaction. The stator shaft is splined to the stator in the torque converter, and the stator shaft arm end contacts the regulator spring cap. When the vehicle is accelerating or climbing (torque converter range), stator torque reaction occurs on the stator shaft, and the stator shaft arm pushes the regulator spring cap in the direction of the arrow in proportion to the reaction. The stator reaction spring compresses, and the main regulator valve moves to increase the line pressure which is regulated by the main regulator valve. The line pressure reaches its maximum pressure when the stator torque reaction reaches its maximum position.

Scheme 42

Scheme 42: Line Pressure Control during High Loading

Secondary Valve Body

The secondary valve body contains the main shift hydraulic circuit, the solenoid valves, the hydraulic pressure switches, etc. The secondary valve body consists of shift solenoid valves A and B, line pressure solenoid valve A, A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, C, and D, shift valves A and B, the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A accumulator, the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B accumulator, the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C accumulator, the line pressure switch, transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch), and transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch). The secondary valve body is mounted on the transmission housing.

Scheme 43

Scheme 43: Secondary Valve Body

Manual Valve Body

The manual valve body is located on the main valve body; it contains the 1st accumulator and the manual valve.

Scheme 44

Scheme 44: Manual Valve Body

Distribution of Hydraulic Pressure

As the engine turns, the ATF pump starts to operate. Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is drawn through the ATF strainer (filter) and discharged into the hydraulic circuit. Then, ATF flowing from the ATF pump becomes line pressure that is regulated by the main regulator valve. Torque converter pressure from the main regulator valve is regulated by the torque converter regulator valve and then flows to the torque converter. The torque converter regulator valve prevents torque converter pressure from rising. Line pressure also becomes torque converter clutch pressure that is regulated by the lock-up control valve, and flows to the torque converter clutch. The PCM switches shift solenoid valves ON and OFF, and it controls the shift solenoid pressure to the shift valves. Applying shift solenoid pressure to the shift valves moves the position of the shift valve, and switches the port of hydraulic pressure. The PCM also controls A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, C, and D. The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves regulate hydraulic pressure, and applies the pressure to the clutch. When shifting between gears, the clutches are engaged by the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve pressures. The PCM actuates the shift solenoid valves to move the position of the shift valves. This movement switches the fluid flow to each clutch. Shifting is completed after the clutch is engaged by the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve pressures.

Port No.Hydraulic Pressure
1Line
1'Line
3Line
3'Line
3AA/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D
3BLine
3CLine
4Line
4'Line
4"Line
7Line
4ALine
4BLine
5AA/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D
5BA/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C
SAShift solenoid valve A
SBShift solenoid valve B
SCShift solenoid valve C
PLALine pressure solenoid valve A
PLA'Line pressure solenoid valve A
PLA"Line pressure solenoid valve A
101st clutch
202nd clutch
303rd clutch
404th clutch
505th clutch
606th clutch
55A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A
56A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B
57A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C
58A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D
58'A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D
58"A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D
91Torque converter
92Torque converter
92'Torque converter
92"Torque converter
93ATF cooler
93'ATF cooler
93"ATF cooler
94Torque converter
95Lubrication
95'Lubrication
96Torque converter
96'Torque converter
96"Torque converter
99Suction
XDrain
HXHigh position drain
AXAir drain

HYDRAULIC PRESSURE AT PORT FOR USE IN HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

Shifting to N from R

Line pressure (1) regulated by the main regulator valve flows to the shift solenoid valves. The PCM switches the shift solenoid valves ON and OFF. The conditions of the shift solenoid valves and the positions of the shift valves are as follows

  1. Shift solenoid valve A is ON, and opens shift solenoid valve A pressure port (SA); shift valve A is moved to the right side by hydraulic pressure (SA) from shift solenoid valve A.
  2. When shifting to N from R, shift solenoid valve B is OFF, and closes shift solenoid valve B pressure port (SB); shift valve B remains on the left side under a spring force, and shift valve C is moved to the left side by hydraulic pressure (4B) that is applied from shift valve A through shift valve B.
  3. When shifting to N from R, shift solenoid valve C is ON, and opens shift solenoid valve C pressure port (SC); the reverse inhibitor valve is moved to the left side by hydraulic pressure (SC) from shift solenoid valve C.
  4. The manual valve covers the ports leading pressure to the clutches in N, and hydraulic pressure is not applied to the clutches.

Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.

Scheme 45

Scheme 45

Shifting to N from D

Line pressure (1) regulated by the main regulator valve flows to the shift solenoid valves. The PCM switches the shift solenoid valves ON and OFF. The conditions of the shift solenoid valves and the positions of the shift valves areas follows

  1. Shift solenoid valve A is ON, and opens shift solenoid valve A pressure port (SA); shift valve A is moved to the right side by hydraulic pressure (SA) from shift solenoid valve A.
  2. When shifting to N from D, shift solenoid valve B is ON, and opens shift solenoid valve B pressure port (SB); shift valve B is moved to the right side by hydraulic pressure (SB) from shift solenoid valve B, and shift valve C is moved to the right side by a spring force.
  3. When shifting to N from D, shift solenoid valve C is OFF, and closes shift solenoid valve C pressure port (SC); the reverse inhibitor valve is moved to the right side by a spring force.
  4. The manual valve covers the ports leading pressure to the clutches in N, and hydraulic pressure is not applied to the clutches.

Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.

Scheme 46

Scheme 46

Shifting to D and S from N

When shifting to D or S from N, the condition of shift solenoid valves A and B remain the same as in N, and the manual valve moves to the D position. Line pressure (4) from the manual valve is applied to the shift valve C line pressure port (4) and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A pressure port (4) and B pressure port (4). As shift solenoid valve A is ON and shift solenoid valve B is OFF, the line pressure (4A) from shift valve A applies to the shift valve C pressure port (4B) through shift valve B (4A, 4B). Shift valve C remains on the left side by the hydraulic pressure (4B) from shift valve B. Immediately after moving the shift lever to D or S from N, A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D operates to apply A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D pressure (58) to the 1st clutch through lock-up shift valve pressure ports (58, 58'), shift valve C pressure ports (58', 3B), manual valve pressure ports (3B, 5A), and shift valve C pressure ports (5A, 10). A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D gently applies hydraulic pressure to the 1st clutch, which avoids generating shock while in gear.

Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.

Scheme 47

Scheme 47: Shifting to D and S from N

Driving in 1st Gear

The PCM turns shift solenoid valves A and BON in 1st gear. Shift solenoid valve B is turned ON from OFF to apply the shift solenoid valve B pressure (SB) to shift valve B. Shift valve B is moved to the right side by the shift solenoid valve B pressure (SB) to close the line pressure port (4B) leading to shift valve C. As the line pressure (4B) from shift valve B is not applied to shift valve C, shift valve C is moved to the right side by a spring force to connect the line pressure port (4) on shift valve C and the 1st clutch pressure port (10). With this shift valve C movement, the line pressure (4) from the manual valve becomes 1st clutch pressure (10) at shift valve C, and flows to the 1st clutch. Then the 1st clutch is engaged by 1st clutch pressure (10).

Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.

Scheme 48

Scheme 48: Driving in 1st Gear

Driving in 2nd Gear

The condition of shift solenoid valves A and B in 2nd gear remain the same as in 1st gear, which turns shift solenoid valves A and B ON. As the speed of the vehicle reaches the programmed value, the PCM activates A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A, and applies CPC pressure (55) to shift valve A. Shift valve A remains on the right side as with the 1st gear. The CPC pressure (55) from A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A becomes 2nd clutch pressure (20) at shift valve A, and flows to the 2nd clutch. Then the 2nd clutch is engaged by 2nd clutch pressure (20). The 1st clutch is also engaged, but since the rotation speed of the countershaft exceeds that of 1st gear, no power is transmitted because the one-way clutch causes 1st gear to free-wheel.

Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.

Scheme 49

Scheme 49: Driving in 2nd Gear

Driving in 3rd Gear

The PCM turns shift solenoid valve A OFF and shift solenoid valve BON in 3rd gear. As the speed of the vehicle reaches the programmed value, the PCM activates A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B, and applies CPC pressure (56) to the shift valve B pressure port (56). Shift valve B remains on the right side as with the 1st gear. The CPC pressure (56) from A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B becomes 3rd clutch pressure (30) at shift valve B, and flows to the 3rd clutch. Then the 3rd clutch is engaged by 3rd clutch pressure (30). 1st clutch is also engaged, but since the rotation speed of the countershaft exceeds that of 1st gear, no power is transmitted because the one-way clutch causes 1st gear to free-wheel.

Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.

Scheme 50

Scheme 50: Driving in 3rd Gear

Driving in 4th Gear

The PCM turns shift solenoid valves A OFF and shift solenoid valve B ON and OFF (depending on the shift map) in 4th gear. As the speed of the vehicle reaches the programmed value, the PCM activates A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C, and applies CPC pressure (57) to the shift valve C pressure port (57). As the line pressure (4B) from shift valve B is not applied to shift valve C, shift valve C is moved to the right side by a spring force to connect the CPC pressure port (57) on shift valve C and the line pressure port (5B) leading to the reverse inhibitor valve. Since reverse inhibitor valve also remains on the right side under a line pressure (4), it connects the CPC pressure port (5B) from shift valve C on the reverse inhibitor valve to the pressure port (40) leading to the 4th clutch. With this shift valve C and the reverse inhibitor valve operations, the CPC pressure (57) flows from the reverse inhibitor valve pressure port (5B, 40) to the 4th clutch through shift valve C pressure ports (57, 5B). Then the 4th clutch is engaged by 4th clutch pressure (40). 1st clutch is also engaged, but since the rotation speed of the countershaft exceeds that of 1st gear, no power is transmitted because the one-way clutch causes 1st gear to free-wheel.

Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.

Scheme 51

Scheme 51: Driving in 4th Gear

Driving in 5th Gear

The condition of shift solenoid valves A and B in 5th gear remains the same as in 4th gear, which turns shift solenoid valve A OFF and shift solenoid valve B ON and OFF (depending on the shift map). As the speed of the vehicle reaches the programmed value, the PCM activates A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A, and applies CPC pressure (55) to the shift valve A pressure port (55). As shift solenoid valve A remains OFF, shift valve A is moved to the left side by a spring force, to connect the CPC pressure port (55) on shift valve A and the 5th clutch pressure port (50). With this shift valve A movement, the CPC pressure (55) becomes 5th clutch pressure (50) at shift valve A, and flows to the 5th clutch. Then the 5th clutch is engaged by 5th clutch pressure (50). 1st clutch is also engaged, but since the rotation speed of the countershaft exceeds that of 1st gear, no power is transmitted because the one-way clutch causes 1st gear to free-wheel.

Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.

Scheme 52

Scheme 52: Driving in 5th Gear

Driving in 6th Gear

The PCM turns shift solenoid valves A and B OFF in 6th gear. As the speed of the vehicle reaches the programmed value, the PCM activates A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B, and applies CPC pressure (56) to the shift valve B pressure port (56). As shift solenoid valve B remains OFF, shift valve B is moved to the left side by a spring force, to connect the CPC pressure port (56) on shift valve B and the 6th clutch pressure port (60). With this shift valve B movement, the CPC pressure (56) becomes 6th clutch pressure (60) at shift valve B, and flows to the 6th clutch. Then the 6th clutch is engaged by 6th clutch pressure (60). 1st clutch is also engaged, but since the rotation speed of the countershaft exceeds that of 1st gear, no power is transmitted because the one-way clutch causes 1st gear to free-wheel.

Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.

Scheme 53

Scheme 53: Driving in 6th Gear

Shifting to R from N

The vehicle is moved backward by engaging the 4th clutch. When shifting to R from N, shift solenoid valve A turns ON, shift solenoid valve B turns OFF, and shift solenoid valve C turns ON, and the manual valve moves to the R position. Line pressure (3) from the manual valve is applied to the shift valve C line pressure port (3) and the reverse inhibitor valve line pressure port (3). Reverse inhibitor valve is moved to the left side by the shift solenoid valve C pressure (SC) to connect the line pressure port (3C) from the shift fork shaft on the reverse inhibitor valve and the 4th clutch pressure port (40) leading to the 4th clutch. As the line pressure (1, 4A) flows from shift valve A to the shift valve C line pressure port (4B) through shift valve B (4A, 4B), shift valve C is moved to the left side. Immediately after moving the shift lever to R from N, A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D operates to apply the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D pressure (58) to the 4th clutch through lock-up shift valve pressure ports (58, 58'), shift valve C pressure ports (58', 3B), manual valve pressure ports (3B, 3A), shift fork shaft pressure ports (3A, 3C), and reverse inhibitor valve pressure ports (3C, 40). Then, A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D gently applies hydraulic pressure to the 4th clutch, which avoids generating shock while in gear.

Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.

Scheme 54

Scheme 54: Shifting to R from N

Driving in R

The vehicle is moved backward by engaging the 4th clutch and reversing the mainshaft rotation with the reverse idler gear. Shift solenoid valves A and B remain OFF, and shift solenoid valve C turns ON when the vehicle moving backward. As shift solenoid valves A and B remain OFF, shift valve C is moved to the right side by a spring force to connect the line pressure port (3) on shift valve C and the line pressure port (3B) leading to the reverse inhibitor valve. The reverse inhibitor valve is moved to the left side by the shift solenoid valve C pressure (SC) to connect the line pressure port (3C) from the shift fork shaft on the reverse inhibitor valve and the 4th clutch pressure port (40) leading to the 4th clutch. The line pressure (3) from the manual valve is also applied to the shift fork shaft line pressure port (3') through the reverse inhibitor valve line pressure ports (3, 3'), which moves the shift fork shaft to the right side, and connects the port (3A)from the manual valve on the shift fork shaft to the line pressure port (3C) leading to the reverse inhibitor valve. With this shift valve C, reverse inhibitor valve, and shift fork shaft movement, the line pressure (3C) becomes 4th clutch pressure (40) at the reverse inhibitor valve, and flows to the 4th clutch. Then the 4th clutch is engaged by 4th clutch pressure (40).

Reverse Inhibitor Control

When R is selected while the vehicle is moving forward at speeds over 6 mph (10 km/h), the PCM commands shift solenoid valve C to remain OFF so that shift solenoid valve C pressure (SC) is not applied to the reverse inhibitor valve. Line pressure (3) stops at the reverse inhibitor valve, and is not applied to the shift fork shaft. This control does not switch to the hydraulic circuit leading to reverse while the vehicle is moving forward at speeds over 6 mph (10 km/h).

Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.

Scheme 55

Scheme 55: Reverse Inhibitor Control

Lock-Up System

The lock-up mechanism operates in D (during accelerating: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears/during decelerating: 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears), S with automatic shift mode (during accelerating: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears/during decelerating: 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears), and S with sequential sportshift mode (during accelerating: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears /during decelerating: 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears). The pressurized fluid is supplied through a lock-up fluid passage in the torque converter, causing the torque converter clutch in the torque converter to be engaged. As this takes place, the mainshaft rotates at the same speed as the engine crankshaft. The PCM controls the shift solenoid valve C pressure and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D pressure to optimize the lock-up timing and the amount of the lock-up. The shift solenoid C pressure operates the lock-up shift valve to switch the lock-up ON and OFF. The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D pressure operates the lock-up control valve to control the degree of lock-up.

Torque Converter Clutch Lock-Up ON (Engaging Torque Converter Clutch)

The fluid pressure is applied to the lock-up fluid passage (94) in the torque converter, causing the torque converter clutch in the torque converter to be engaged and then the turbine and the torque converter cover to be engaged. The mainshaft rotates at the same speed as the engine crankshaft when the torque converter clutch in the torque converter is engaged.

Scheme 56

Scheme 56: Torque Converter Clutch Lock-Up ON (Engaging Torque Converter Clutch)

Torque Converter Clutch Lock-Up OFF (Disengaging Torque Converter Clutch)

When the fluid pressure to the lock-up fluid passage (94) in the torque converter is blocked, the torque converter clutch in the torque converter is released. The turbine and the torque converter cover are also released at this time, causing the mainshaft and the engine crankshaft to rotate at a different speed.

Scheme 57

Scheme 57: Torque Converter Clutch Lock-Up OFF (Disengaging Torque Converter Clutch)

Shift Lock System

The shift lock system prevents the shift lever from moving unless certain conditions are met. The shift lock solenoid is normally OFF. After starting the engine in P, the shift lever cannot move to any other position because the shift lock stop stops the lock pin. When the brake pedal is pressed and the accelerator pedal is not pressed, the PCM commands the shift lock solenoid is ON; the shift lock solenoid plunger pulls the shift lock stop to release the lock pin. Pressing the shift lever button allows the shift lever to move to any other position. When the brake pedal and the accelerator pedal are pressed at the same time, the PCM commands the solenoid OFF and the shift lock system is locked.

Scheme 58

Scheme 58: Shift Lock System

When the shift lock system does not operate due to mechanical or electrical problem, you can unlock the shift lock temporarily by inserting the ignition key into the shift lock release hole and pressing the shift lock release. When the shift lock release is pressed, the shift lock stop releases the lock pin, and the shift lever can move to any other position.

Scheme 59

Scheme 59

Scheme 60

Scheme 60: Circuit Diagram - PCM A/T Control System

Scheme 61

Scheme 61

DTC P062F: Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the PGM-FI SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC P062F indicated in the PGM-FI SYSTEM? YES -Go to the DTC P062F troubleshooting in the PGM-FI SYSTEM (see «DTC P062F: PCM INTERNAL CONTROL MODULE KEEP ALIVE MEMORY (KAM) ERROR»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__dtc-p062f-pcm-internal-control-module) ). NO -Go to step 4.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the A/T SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC P062F indicated in the A/T SYSTEM? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated, go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) .
  5. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ).
  6. Start the engine, and wait for at least 1 minute.
  7. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the A/T SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC P062F indicated in the A/T SYSTEM? YES -Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 6 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 2 . NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Monitor the OBD STATUS for P062F in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate PASSED? YES -If the PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated in step 7 , go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . NO -If the HDS indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose terminals at the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 6 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 2 . If the HDS indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 6 .

DTC P0705: Short in Transmission Range Switch Circuit (Multiple Shift-Position Input)

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Compare the ATPP, ATPR, ATPN, ATPD, ATPS, ATPFWD, and ATPRVS inputs with the HDS to the following table, in each shift lever position. ATPP ATPR ATPN ATPD ATPS ATP FWD ATP RVS P o X X X X X X R X o X X X X o N X X o X X X X D X X X o X o X S X X X X o o X o: ON X: OFF Do the transmission range switch signals match? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. NO -Go to step 3.
  3. Compare the ATPP, ATPR, ATPN, ATPD, ATPS, ATPFWD, and ATPRVS inputs with the HDS to the table in step 2 , in each shift lever position. Are any transmission range switch signals ON in all shift lever positions? YES -Go to step 9 . NO -Record the input that did not indicate ON, then go to step 4.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  5. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
  6. Connect the transmission range switch connector terminal which incorrectly indicates ON in step 3 to body ground with a jumper wire.
  7. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  8. Compare the ATPP, ATPR, ATPN, ATPD, ATPS, ATPFWD, and ATPRVS inputs with the HDS to the table in step 2 . Do multiple transmission range switch signals indicate ON? YES -Repair a short in the wires between the transmission range switch and the PCM, refer to the following table. NO -Replace the transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). ATP P ATP R ATP N ATP D ATP S ATP FWD ATP RVS PCM A16 C25 C26 C17 C46 C18 C19 Transmission Range Switch 7 8 4 9 10 5 1
  9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  10. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
  11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  12. Check the transmission range switch signal that remained ON with the HDS. Do any transmission range switch signals remain ON? YES -Go to step 13. NO -Replace the transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  14. Check for continuity to body ground in the circuit that remained ON in step 2 . Does the circuit that indicated ON have continuity to ground? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between the corresponding transmission range switch connector terminal and the PCM. NO -Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ). If the PCM was updated, replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ).

DTC P0706: Open in Transmission Range Switch Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

Scheme 62

Scheme 62: DTC P0706: Open in Transmission Range Switch Circuit
  1. Make sure the shift cable is adjusted properly (see «SHIFT CABLE ADJUSTMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  3. Compare the ATPP, ATPR, ATPN, ATPD, ATPS, ATPFWD, and ATPRVS inputs with the HDS to the following table, in each shift lever position. ATPP ATPR ATPN ATPD ATPS ATP FWD ATP RVS P o X X X X X X R X o X X X X o N X X o X X X X D X X X o X o X S X X X X o o X o: ON X: OFF Do the transmission range switch signals match? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. NO -Go to step 4.
  4. Compare the ATPP, ATPR, ATPN, ATPD, ATPS, ATPFWD, and ATPRVS inputs with the HDS to the table in step 3 , in each shift lever position. Do all signals remain OFF? YES -Go to step 14 . NO -Record the input that did not indicate ON, then go to step 5.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
  7. Connect the transmission range switch connector terminal which did not indicate ON in step 4 to body ground with a jumper wire.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  9. Check the transmission range switch signal that did not indicate ON with the HDS. Does the transmission range switch signal indicate ON? YES -Replace the transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 10.
  10. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  11. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  12. Disconnect PCM connector A (49P) or C (49P).
  13. Check for continuity between the transmission range switch connector terminal and the PCM connector terminal of the input which indicated OFF. Refer to the following table. ATP P ATP R ATP N ATP D ATP S ATP FWD ATP RVS PCM A16 C25 C26 C17 C46 C18 C19 Transmission Range Switch 7 8 4 9 10 5 1 Is there continuity? YES -Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ). If the PCM was updated, replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between the corresponding transmission range switch connector terminal and the PCM.
  14. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  15. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
  16. Check for continuity between transmission range switch connector terminal No. 6 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between transmission range switch connector terminal No. 6 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101).

DTC P0711: Problem in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Check the ATF Temperature with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Does the ATF Temperature indicate -4°F (-20°C) or below? YES -Go to step 3. NO -Go to step 5 .
  3. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  4. Check the ATF Temperature with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Does the ATF Temperature remain -4°F (-20°C) or below? YES -Replace the ATF temperature sensor (see «ATF TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 8 . NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If there is an abnormal temperature rise in the ATF temperature sensor, go to step 16 .
  5. Check the ATF Temperature with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Does the ATF Temperature exceed 230°F (110°C)? YES -Go to step 6. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  6. Let the engine cool until the Engine Coolant Temperature reads 122°F (50°C) or below with the HDS in the A/T Data List.
  7. Check the ATF Temperature with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Does the ATF Temperature remain 230°F (110°C) or higher? YES -Replace the ATF temperature sensor (see «ATF TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 8. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If there is an abnormal decrease in temperature of the ATF temperature sensor, go to step 16 .
  8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  9. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  10. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  11. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode, and allow the engine coolant to cool down to outside air temperature.
  12. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the all four wheels to rotate freely.
  13. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode, and wait for 20 seconds, then start the engine. Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). Start off in D, accelerate with the throttle opened at least 4 degrees, and run the vehicle at speeds over 19 mph (30 km/h) for at least 5 minutes. Or test-drive the vehicle for at least 20 seconds while the ATF temperature reads -4°F to 230°F (-20°C to 110°C) by monitoring with the HDS. Slowdown, and stop the wheels.
  14. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0711 indicated? YES -Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM, then go to step 1 . NO -Go to step 15.
  15. Monitor the OBD STATUS for P0711 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate PASSED? YES -Troubleshooting is complete. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated in step 14 , go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . NO -If the HDS indicates FAILED, check for poor connections and loose terminals between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM, then go to step 1 . If the HDS indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 10 .
  16. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ).
  17. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  18. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode, and allow the engine coolant to cool down to outside air temperature.
  19. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the all four wheels to rotate freely.
  20. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode, and wait for 20 seconds, then start the engine. Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). Start off in D, accelerate with the throttle opened at least 4 degrees, and run the vehicle at speeds over 19 mph (30 km/h) for at least 5 minutes. Or test-drive the vehicle for at least 20 seconds while the ATF temperature reads -4°F to 230°F (-20°C to 110°C) by monitoring with the HDS. Slow down, and stop the wheels.
  21. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0711 indicated? YES -Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 17 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 1 . NO -Go to step 22.
  22. Monitor the OBD STATUS for P0711 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate PASSED? YES -If the PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated in step 21 , go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . NO -If the HDS indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose terminals between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 17 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 1 . If the HDS indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 17 .

DTC P0712: Short in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

Scheme 63

Scheme 63: DTC P0712: Short in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Check the ATF Temp Sensor (V) with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the ATF Temp Sensor (V) 0.07 V or less? YES -Go to step 3. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for an intermittent short to body ground in the wire between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM.
  3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  4. Disconnect the ATF temperature sensor connector.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  6. Check the ATF Temp Sensor (V) with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the ATF Temp Sensor (V) 0.07 V or less? YES -Go to step 7. NO -Replace the ATF temperature sensor (see «ATF TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 11 .
  7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  8. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  9. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  10. Check for continuity between ATF temperature sensor connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal C33 and ATF temperature sensor connector terminal No. 2, then go to step 11. NO -Go to step 17 .
  11. Reconnect all connectors.
  12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  13. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  14. Start the engine in P, and wait for at least 20 seconds.
  15. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0712 indicated? YES -Check for an intermittent short to body ground in the wire between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM, then go to step 1 . NO -Go to step 16.
  16. Monitor the OBD STATUS for P0712 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate PASSED? YES -Troubleshooting is complete. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated in step 15 , go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . NO -If the HDS indicates FAILED, check for an intermittent short to body ground in the wire between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM, then go to step 1 . If the HDS indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 14 .
  17. Reconnect all connectors.
  18. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ).
  19. Start the engine in P, and wait for at least 20 seconds.
  20. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0712 indicated? YES -Check for an intermittent short to body ground in the wire between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 19 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 1 . NO -Go to step 21.
  21. Monitor the OBD STATUS for P0712 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate PASSED? YES -If the PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated in step 20 , go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . NO -If the HDS indicates FAILED, check for an intermittent short to body ground in the wire between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 19 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 1 . If the HDS indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 19 .

DTC P0713: Open in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

Scheme 64

Scheme 64: DTC P0713: Open in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit

Scheme 65

Scheme 65

Scheme 66

Scheme 66
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Check the ATF Temp Sensor (V) with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Does the ATF Temp Sensor (V) exceed 4.93 V? YES -Go to step 3. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM.
  3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  4. Disconnect the ATF temperature sensor connector.
  5. Connect ATF temperature sensor connector terminal No. 2 to body ground with a jumper wire.
  6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  7. Check the ATF Temp Sensor (V) with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Does the ATF Temp Sensor (V) drop to 0.07 V or less? YES -Go to step 8. NO -Go to step 13 .
  8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  9. Remove the jumper wire.
  10. Connect ATF temperature sensor connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire.
  11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  12. Check the ATF Temp Sensor (V) with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Does the ATF Temp Sensor (V) remain 0.07 V or less? YES -Replace the ATF temperature sensor (see «ATF TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 17 . NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C16 and ATF temperature sensor connector terminal No. 1, then go to step 17 .
  13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  14. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  15. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  16. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C33 and ATF temperature sensor connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES -Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM. If the connections are OK, go to step 23 . NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C33 and ATF temperature sensor connector terminal No. 2, then go to step 17.
  17. Reconnect all connectors.
  18. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  19. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  20. Start the engine in P, and wait for at least 20 seconds.
  21. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0713 indicated? YES -Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM, then go to step 1 . NO -Go to step 22.
  22. Monitor the OBD STATUS for P0713 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate PASSED? YES -Troubleshooting is complete. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated in step 21 , go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . NO -If the HDS indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose terminals between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM, then go to step 1 . If the HDS indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 20 .
  23. Reconnect all connectors.
  24. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ).
  25. Start the engine in P, and wait for at least 20 seconds.
  26. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0713 indicated? YES -Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 25 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 1 . NO -Go to step 27.
  27. Monitor the OBD STATUS for P0713 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate PASSED? YES -If the PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated in step 26 , go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . NO -If the HDS indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose terminals between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ) then go to step 25 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 1 . If the HDS indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 25 .

DTC P0716: Problem in Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Circuit; DTC P0721: Problem in Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the all four wheels to rotate freely.
  4. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button, move the shift lever to D, and run the vehicle with the engine speed above 2, 000 rpm for at least 10 seconds. Slow down, and stop the wheels.
  5. Check for pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0718 or P0723 indicate? YES -Go to the «DTC P0718 TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__dtc-p0717-problem-in-input-shaft) or the «DTC P0723 TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__dtc-p0722-problem-in-output-shaft) . NO -Go to step 6.
  6. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0716 or P0721 indicated? YES -Go to step 7. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  7. Check the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor or the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor for poor connection and proper installation. Are the connection and installation OK? YES -Replace the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor or the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then go to step 8. NO -Reinstall the speed sensor and connect the speed sensor connector, then go to step 8.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  9. Clear the DTC with HDS.
  10. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button, move the shift lever to D, and run the vehicle with the engine speed above 2, 000 rpm for at least 10 seconds. Slow down, and stop the wheels.
  11. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DT C P0716 or P0721 indicated? YES -Go to step 1 . NO -Troubleshooting is complete.

DTC P0717: Problem in Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input); DTC P0718: Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Intermittent Failure

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

Scheme 67

Scheme 67: DTC P0717: Problem in Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input); DTC P0718: Inp

Scheme 68

Scheme 68

Scheme 69

Scheme 69

Scheme 70

Scheme 70
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the all four wheels to rotate freely.
  4. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button, move the shift lever to D, and run the vehicle with the engine speed above 2, 000 rpm. Compare the Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed and the Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Slow down, and stop the wheels. Are the speeds about the same? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. NO -Go to step 5.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector.
  7. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  8. Measure the voltage between input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES -Go to step 9. NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C12 and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 1, then go to step 15 .
  9. Measure the voltage between input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES -Go to step 10. NO -Go to step 11 .
  10. Check for continuity between input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 3 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (see «INPUT SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 15 . NO -Repair an open in the wire between input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 3 and PCM connector terminal C16, then go to step 15 .
  11. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  12. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  13. Disconnect PCM connector B (49P).
  14. Check for continuity between input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal B37 and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2, then go to step 15. NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal B37 and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2, then go to step 15.
  15. Reconnect all connectors.
  16. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  17. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  18. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button, move the shift lever to D, and run the vehicle with the engine speed above 2, 000 rpm. Compare the Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed and the Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Slow down, and stop the wheels. Are the speeds about the same? YES -Troubleshooting is complete. NO -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ).

DTC P0722: Problem in Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input); DTC P0723: Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Intermittent Failure

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

Scheme 71

Scheme 71: DTC P0722: Problem in Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input); DTC P0723:

Scheme 72

Scheme 72

Scheme 73

Scheme 73

Scheme 74

Scheme 74
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the all four wheels to rotate freely.
  4. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button, move the shift lever to D, and run the vehicle with the engine speed above 2, 000 rpm. Compare the Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed and the Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Slow down, and stop the wheels. Are the speeds about the same? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. NO -Go to step 5.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Disconnect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector.
  7. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  8. Measure the voltage between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES -Go to step 9. NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal B36 and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 1, then go to step 15 .
  9. Measure the voltage between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES -Go to step 10. NO -Go to step 11 .
  10. Check for continuity between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 3 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (see «OUTPUT SHAFT (COUNTERSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 15 . NO -Repair an open in the wire between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 3 and PCM connector terminal C15, then go to step 15 .
  11. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  12. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  13. Disconnect PCM connector B (49P).
  14. Check for continuity between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal B38 and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2, then go to step 15. NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal B38 and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2, then go to step 15.
  15. Reconnect all connectors.
  16. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  17. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  18. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button, move the shift lever to D, and run the vehicle with the engine speed above 2, 000 rpm. Compare the Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed and the Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Slow down, and stop the wheels. Are the speeds about the same? YES -Troubleshooting is complete. NO -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ).

DTC P0729: Problem in 6th Clutch and 6th Clutch Hydraulic Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Test-drive the vehicle in 6th gear in D for at least 12 seconds. Slow down, and stop the wheels.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0729 indicated? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated, go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) .
  5. Measure the 6th clutch pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the 6th clutch pressure within the service limit? YES -Faulty 6th clutch. Replace the 3rd/6th clutch or the transmission. If you are replacing the 3rd/6th clutch, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the 3rd/6th clutch and the torque converter. NO -Go to step 6.
  6. Measure the line pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the line pressure within the service limits? YES -Clogged 6th clutch hydraulic circuit. Clean the 6th clutch hydraulic circuit or replace the transmission. If you are cleaning the 6th clutch hydraulic circuit, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the torque converter. NO -Faulty ATF pump or main regulator valve. Replace the main valve body (ATF pump), the regulator valve body (main regulator valve), or the transmission. If you are replacing the main valve body or the regulator valve body, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the main valve body or the regulator valve body and the torque converter.

DTC P0731: Problem in 1st Clutch and 1st Clutch Hydraulic Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Test-drive the vehicle in 1st gear in D, at speeds over 7 mph (12 km/h), and for at least 12 seconds. Slow down, and stop the wheels.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0731 indicated? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated, go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) .
  5. Measure the 1st clutch pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the 1st clutch pressure within the service limit? YES -Faulty 1st clutch. Replace the 1st clutch or the transmission. If you are replacing the 1st clutch, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the 1st clutch and the torque converter. NO -Go to step 6.
  6. Measure the line pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the line pressure within the service limits? YES -Clogged 1st clutch hydraulic circuit. Clean the 1st clutch hydraulic circuit or replace the transmission. If you are cleaning the 1st clutch hydraulic circuit, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the torque converter. NO -Faulty ATF pump or main regulator valve. Replace the main valve body (ATF pump), the regulator valve body (main regulator valve), or the transmission. If you are replacing the main valve body or the regulator valve body, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the main valve body or the regulator valve body and the torque converter.

DTC P0732: Problem in 2nd Clutch and 2nd Clutch Hydraulic Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Test-drive the vehicle in 2nd gear in D, at speeds over 7 mph (12 km/h), and for at least 12 seconds. Slow down, and stop the wheels.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0732 indicated? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated, go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) .
  5. Measure the 2nd clutch pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the 2nd clutch pressure within the service limit? YES -Faulty 2nd clutch. Replace the 2nd/5th clutch or the transmission. If you are replacing the 2nd/5th clutch, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the 2nd/5th clutch and the torque converter. NO -Go to step 6.
  6. Measure the line pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the line pressure within the service limits? YES -Clogged 2nd clutch hydraulic circuit. Clean the 2nd clutch hydraulic circuit or replace the transmission. If you are cleaning the 2nd clutch hydraulic circuit, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the torque converter. NO -Faulty ATF pump or main regulator valve. Replace the main valve body (ATF pump), the regulator valve body (main regulator valve), or the transmission. If you are replacing the main valve body or the regulator valve body, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the main valve body or the regulator valve body and the torque converter.

DTC P0733: Problem in 3rd Clutch and 3rd Clutch Hydraulic Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Test-drive the vehicle in 3rd gear in D for at least 12 seconds. Slow down, and stop the wheels.
  4. Check for Pending or Confined DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0733 indicated? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated, go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) .
  5. Measure the 3rd clutch pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the 3rd clutch pressure within the service limit? YES -Faulty 3rd clutch. Replace the 3rd/6th clutch or the transmission. If you are replacing the 3rd/6th clutch, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the 3rd/6th clutch and the torque converter. NO -Go to step 6.
  6. Measure the line pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the line pressure within the service limits? YES -Clogged 3rd clutch hydraulic circuit. Clean the 3rd clutch hydraulic circuit or replace the transmission. If you are cleaning the 3rd clutch hydraulic circuit, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the torque converter. NO -Faulty ATF pump or main regulator valve. Replace the main valve body (ATF pump), the regulator valve body (main regulator valve), or the transmission. If you are replacing the main valve body or the regulator valve body, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the main valve body or the regulator valve body and the torque converter.

DTC P0734: Problem in 4th Clutch and 4th Clutch Hydraulic Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Test-drive the vehicle in 4th gear in D for at least 12 seconds. Slow down, and stop the wheels.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0734 indicated? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated, go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) .
  5. Measure the 4th clutch pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the 4th clutch pressure within the service limit? YES -Faulty 4th clutch. Replace the 4th clutch or the transmission. If you are replacing the 4th clutch, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the 4th clutch and the torque converter. NO -Go to step 6.
  6. Measure the line pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the line pressure within the service limits? YES -Clogged 4th clutch hydraulic circuit. Clean the 4th clutch hydraulic circuit or replace the transmission. If you are cleaning the 4th clutch hydraulic circuit, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the torque converter. NO -Faulty ATF pump or main regulator valve. Replace the main valve body (ATF pump), the regulator valve body (main regulator valve), or the transmission. If you are replacing the main valve body or the regulator valve body, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the main valve body or the regulator valve body and the torque converter.

DTC P0735: Problem in 5th Clutch and 5th Clutch Hydraulic Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Test-drive the vehicle in 5th gear in D for at least 12 seconds. Slow down, and stop the wheels.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0735 indicated? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated, go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) .
  5. Measure the 5th clutch pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the 5th clutch pressure within the service limit? YES -Faulty 5th clutch. Replace the 2nd/5th clutch or the transmission. If you are replacing the 2nd/5th clutch, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the 2nd/5th clutch and the torque converter. NO -Go to step 6.
  6. Measure the line pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the line pressure within the service limits? YES -Clogged 5th clutch hydraulic circuit. Clean the 5th clutch hydraulic circuit or replace the transmission. If you are cleaning the 5th clutch hydraulic circuit, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the torque converter. NO -Faulty ATF pump or main regulator valve. Replace the main valve body (ATF pump), the regulator valve body (main regulator valve), or the transmission. If you are replacing the main valve body or the regulator valve body, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the main valve body or the regulator valve body and the torque converter.

DTC P0741: Torque Converter Clutch Hydraulic Circuit Stuck OFF

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0761 indicated? YES -Go to the «DTC P0761 TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__dtc-p0761-shift-solenoid-valve-c) . NO -Go to step 6 .
  3. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  4. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  5. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 6.
  6. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  7. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  8. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road with a steady throttle at 60 mph (96 km/h) for at least 22 seconds, or test-drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data.
  9. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0741 indicated? YES -Go to step 10. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  10. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid Valve D in the Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate NORMAL? YES -If the HDS indicates NORMAL, go to step 11. If the HDS indicates failure other than A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D, follow the instructions indicated on the HDS for the test result. NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  11. Measure the torque converter clutch pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ) while monitoring the A/T Shift Sol VLV. C signal with the HDS. Dose the torque converter clutch pressure rise when A/T Shift Sol VLV. C turns on? YES -Faulty lock-up shift valve or lock-up control valve. Replace the main valve body (lock-up shift valve), the regulator valve body (lock-up control valve), or the transmission. If you are replacing the main valve body or the regulator valve body, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the main valve body or the regulator valve body and the torque converter. NO -Faulty torque converter clutch. Replace the torque converter.

DTC P0746: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0746 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 3rd or 4th gear because of the fail-safe function.

  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  5. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  6. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid Valve A in the Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate NORMAL? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

DTC P0747: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0747 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 2nd or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  5. Start the engine.
  6. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, and check the 2nd Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Does the 2nd Pressure Switch turn on with a shock caused by engaging gears? YES -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.

DTC P0751: Shift Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0751 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 3rd or 4th gear because of the fail-safe function.

  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow all four wheels to rotate freely.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  6. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  7. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button.
  8. Run the vehicle with the shift lever in D, and let the transmission shift slowly to 2nd gear, and check the 3rd Pressure Switch signal, the 5th Pressure Switch signal, and the Shift Control when the transmission shifts from 1st gear to 2nd gear with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Slow down, and stop the wheels. NOTE: Repeat two or three times if shifts are normal. Does the 5th Pressure Switch turn on momentarily in 2nd gear, then does the 3rd Pressure Switch turn on with a harsh shift? YES -Go to step 9. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  9. Select Shift Solenoid Valve A in the Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that shift solenoid valve A operates with the HDS. Is a clicking sound heard? YES -Faulty shift valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (shift valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Faulty shift solenoid valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (shift solenoid valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

DTC P0752: Shift Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0752 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 2nd or 4th gear because of the fail-safe function, but if that DTC is a Pending DTC, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 3rd or 6th gear because of the fail-safe function.

  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow all four wheels to rotate freely.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  6. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  7. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button.
  8. Run the vehicle with the shift lever in D, and let the transmission shift slowly to 4th gear, and check the 3rd Pressure Switch signal, the 4th Pressure Switch signal, and the Shift Control when the transmission shifts from 3rd gear to 4th gear with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Slow down, and stop the wheels. NOTE: Repeat two or three times if shifts are normal. Does the 4th Pressure Switch turn off in 4th gear, then does the 3rd Pressure Switch turn on with a harsh shift? YES -Go to step 9. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  9. Select Shift Solenoid Valve A in the Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that shift solenoid valve A operates with the HDS. Is a clicking sound heard? YES -Faulty shift valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (shift valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Faulty shift solenoid valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (shift solenoid valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ) M

DTC P0756: Shift Solenoid Valve B Stuck OFF

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0756 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 2nd or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  5. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  6. Start the engine.
  7. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, and check the A/T Shift Sol VLV. B signal, the Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed, and the Shift Control with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed 0 rpm when A/T Shift Sol VLV. B is OFF, and about the same as the engine speed when A/T Shift Sol VLV. B is ON? YES -Shift to P, and go to step 10 . NO -Shift to P, and go to step 8.
  8. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  9. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, and check the A/T Shift Sol VLV. B signal, the Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed, and the Shift Control with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Does the Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed remain steady when A/T Shift Sol VLV. B is OFF and when it is ON? YES -Faulty 1st gear one-way clutch. Replace the countershaft 1st gear or the transmission. If you are replacing the countershaft 1st gear, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the countershaft 1st gear and the torque converter. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  10. Select Shift Solenoid Valve B in the Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that shift solenoid valve B operates with the HDS. Is a clicking sound heard? YES -Go to step 11. NO -Faulty shift solenoid valve B. Replace the secondary valve body (shift solenoid valve B) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  11. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  12. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow all four wheels to rotate freely.
  13. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  14. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  15. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to S, and upshift to 2nd gear by pressing the paddle shifter + (upshift switch).
  16. Run the vehicle, and upshift to 3rd gear by pressing the paddle shifter + (upshift switch), and check the 3rd Pressure Switch signal, the 6th Pressure Switch signal, and the Shift Control with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Slow down, and stop the wheels. In 3rd gear, was the 3rd Pressure Switch OFF and was the 6th Pressure Switch ON? YES -Faulty shift valve B. Replace the secondary valve body (shift valve B) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Faulty shift valve C. Replace the main valve body (shift valve C) or the transmission. If you are replacing the main valve body, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the main valve body and the torque converter.

DTC P0757: Shift Solenoid Valve B Stuck ON

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0757 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 2nd or 4th gear because of the fail-safe function.

  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow all four wheels to rotate freely.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  6. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  7. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button.
  8. Run the vehicle with the shift lever in D, and let the transmission shift slowly to 6th gear, and check the 2nd Pressure Switch signal, the 3rd Pressure Switch signal, the 4th Pressure Switch signal, and the Shift Control when the transmission shifts from 5th gear to 6th gear with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Slowdown, and stop the wheels. NOTE: Repeat two or three times if shifts are normal. Does the 3rd Pressure Switch turn on momentarily in 6th gear, then does the 2nd Pressure Switch or the 4th Pressure Switch turn on in 6th gear? YES -Go to step 9. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  9. Select Shift Solenoid Valve B in the Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that shift solenoid valve B operates with the HDS. Is a clicking sound heard? YES -Faulty shift valve B. Replace the secondary valve body (shift valve B) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Faulty shift solenoid valve B. Replace the secondary valve body (shift solenoid valve B) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

DTC P0761: Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck OFF

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  5. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  6. Test-drive the vehicle in reverse gear. NOTE: Repeat two or three times if shifts are normal. Does the vehicle move with reverse gear? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. NO -Go to step 7.
  7. Select Shift Solenoid Valve C in the Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that shift solenoid valve C operates with the HDS. Is a clicking sound heard? YES -Faulty reverse inhibitor valve or shift fork shaft. Replace the main valve body (reverse inhibitor valve), the regulator valve body (shift fork shaft), or the transmission. If you are replacing the main valve body or the regulator valve body, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the main valve body or the regulator valve body and the torque converter. NO -Faulty shift solenoid valve C. Replace shift solenoid valve C (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE C TEST AND REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

DTC P0762: Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck ON

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  5. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  6. Start the engine.
  7. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, and check the A/T Shift Sol VLV. B signal, the Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed, and the Shift Control with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Does the Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed remain steady when A/T Shift Sol VLV. B is OFF, and does the Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed read 0 rpm when A/T Shift Sol VLV. B is ON? YES -Go to step 8. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  8. Select Shift Solenoid Valve C in the Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that shift solenoid valve C operates with the HDS. Is a clicking sound heard? YES -Faulty 1st gear one-way clutch. Replace the countershaft 1st gear or the transmission. If you are replacing the countershaft 1st gear, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the countershaft 1st gear and the torque converter. NO -Faulty shift solenoid valve C. Replace shift solenoid valve C (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE C TEST AND REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

DTC P0776: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Stuck OFF

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0776 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 2nd or 4th gear because of the fail-safe function.

  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  5. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  6. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid Valve B in the Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate NORMAL? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

DTC P0777: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Stuck ON

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0777 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 3rd or 6th gear because of the fail-safe function.

  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  5. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  6. Start the engine.
  7. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, and check the 3rd Pressure Switch signal and the 6th Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Does the 6th Pressure Switch turn on momentarily, then does the 3rd Pressure Switch turn on with a harsh shift? YES -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch control solenoid valve B) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.

DTC P0796: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Stuck OFF

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0796 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 2nd or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function, but if that DTC is a Pending DTC, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 3rd or 6th gear because of the fail-safe function.

  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  5. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  6. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid Valve C in the Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate NORMAL? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C, shift valve C, D inhibitor valve, reverse inhibitor valve, or shift fork shaft. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), the main valve body (shift valve C, D inhibitor valve, or reverse inhibitor valve), the regulator valve body (shift fork shaft), or the transmission. If you are replacing the main valve body or the regulator valve body, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the main valve body or the regulator valve body and the torque converter.

DTC P0797: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Stuck ON

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0797 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 1st or 4th gear because of the fail-safe function.

  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  5. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  6. Start the engine.
  7. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, and check the 4th Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Does the 4th Pressure Switch turn on momentarily? YES -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.

DTC P0812: Open in Transmission Range Switch ATPR Switch Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

Scheme 75

Scheme 75: DTC P0812: Open in Transmission Range Switch ATPR Switch Circuit

Scheme 76

Scheme 76
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Shift to R, and verify the A/T R Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the A/T R Switch ON? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. NO -Go to step 3.
  3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  4. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
  5. Connect a jumper wire between transmission range switch connector terminal No. 8 and body ground.
  6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  7. Check the A/T R Switch signal with the HDS. Is the A/T R Switch ON? YES -Replace the transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 14 . NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  9. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  10. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  11. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C25 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 18 . NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C25 and transmission range switch connector terminal No. 8, then go to step 12.
  12. Reconnect all connectors.
  13. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  14. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  15. Test-drive the vehicle in R at speeds below 3 mph (5 km/h) for at least 2 seconds, then increase the speed and test-drive at speeds over 3 mph (5 km/h) for at least 2 seconds. Slow down, and stop the wheels.
  16. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0812 indicated? YES -Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the transmission range switch and the PCM, then go to step 1 . NO -Go to step 17.
  17. Monitor the OBD STATUS for P0812 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate PASSED? YES -Troubleshooting is complete. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated in step 16 , go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . NO -If the HDS indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose terminals between the transmission range switch and the PCM, then go to step 1 . If the HDS indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 15 .
  18. Reconnect all connectors.
  19. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ).
  20. Test-drive the vehicle in R at speeds below 3 mph (5 km/h) for at least 2 seconds, then increase the speed and test-drive at speeds over 3 mph (5 km/h) for at least 2 seconds. Slow down, and stop the wheels
  21. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0812 indicated? YES -Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the transmission range switch and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 20 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 1 . NO -Go to step 22.
  22. Monitor the OBD STATUS for P0812 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate PASSED? YES -If the PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated in step 21 , go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . NO -If the HDS indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose terminals between the transmission range switch and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 20 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 1 . If the HDS indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 20 .

DTC P0842: Short in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch A (2nd Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch A (2nd Clutch) Stuck ON

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0842 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 2nd or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 77

Scheme 77: DTC P0842: Short in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch A (2nd Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check the 2nd Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 2nd Pressure Switch ON? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  5. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) connector.
  6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  7. Check the 2nd Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 2nd Pressure Switch OFF? YES -Replace transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) (see «TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH A (2ND CLUTCH) REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  9. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  10. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  11. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C27 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal C27 and the transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) connector terminal. NO -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ).

DTC P0843: Open in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch A (2nd Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch A (2nd Clutch) Stuck OFF

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0843 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 2nd through 4th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 78

Scheme 78: DTC P0843: Open in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch A (2nd Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid

Scheme 79

Scheme 79
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow all wheels to rotate freely.
  4. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button. Run the vehicle with the sequential sportshift mode in 2nd gear. Check the 2nd Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Slow down, and stop the wheels. Is the 2nd Pressure Switch ON in 2nd gear? YES - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) and the PCM. NO -Go to step 5.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) connector.
  7. Connect a jumper wire between the transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) connector terminal and body ground.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  9. Check the 2nd Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 2nd Pressure Switch ON? YES -Replace transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) (see «TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH A (2ND CLUTCH) REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 10.
  10. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  11. Remove the jumper wire.
  12. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  13. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  14. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C27 and the transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) connector terminal. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C27 and the transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) connector terminal.

DTC P0847: Short in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch B (3rd Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch B (3rd Clutch) Stuck ON

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0847 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 3rd or 6th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 80

Scheme 80: DTC P0847: Short in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch B (3rd Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check the 3rd Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 3rd Pressure Switch ON? YES -Go to step 4. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  5. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) connector.
  6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  7. Check the 3rd Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 3rd Pressure Switch OFF? YES -Replace transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) (see «TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH B (3RD CLUTCH) REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  9. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  10. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  11. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C38 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal C38 and the transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) connector terminal. NO -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ).

DTC P0848: Open in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch B (3rd Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch B (3rd Clutch) Stuck OFF

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0848 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 3rd through 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 81

Scheme 81: DTC P0848: Open in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch B (3rd Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid

Scheme 82

Scheme 82
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow all wheels to rotate freely.
  4. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button. Run the vehicle with the sequential sportshift mode in 3rd gear. Check the 3rd Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Slow down, and stop the wheels. Is the 3rd Pressure Switch ON in 3rd gear? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) and the PCM. NO -Go to step 5.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) connector.
  7. Connect a jumper wire between the transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) connector terminal and body ground.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  9. Check the 3rd Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 3rd Pressure Switch ON? YES -Replace transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) (see «TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH B (3RD CLUTCH) REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 10.
  10. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  11. Remove the jumper wire.
  12. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  13. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  14. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C38 and the transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) connector terminal. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C38 and the transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) connector terminal.

DTC P084C: Short in Line Pressure Switch Circuit, or Line Pressure Switch Stuck ON

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P084C is stored in the PCM, engine torque is restricted because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 83

Scheme 83: DTC P084C: Short in Line Pressure Switch Circuit, or Line Pressure Switch Stuck ON
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check the Line Pressure Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the Line Pressure Pressure Switch ON? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  5. Disconnect the line pressure switch connector.
  6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  7. Check the Line Pressure Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the Line Pressure Pressure Switch OFF? YES -Replace the line pressure switch (see «LINE PRESSURE SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  9. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  10. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  11. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C35 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal C35 and the line pressure switch connector terminal. NO -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ).

DTC P0872: Short in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch C (4th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch C (4th Clutch) Stuck ON

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0872 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 1st or 4th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 84

Scheme 84: DTC P0872: Short in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch C (4th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check the 4th Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 4th Pressure Switch ON? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  5. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector.
  6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  7. Check the 4th Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 4th Pressure Switch OFF? YES -Replace transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) (see «TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH C (4TH CLUTCH) REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  9. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  10. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  11. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C37 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal C37 and the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector terminal. NO -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ).

DTC P0873: Open in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch C (4th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch C (4th Clutch) Stuck OFF

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0873 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 1st or 4th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 85

Scheme 85: DTC P0873: Open in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch C (4th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid

Scheme 86

Scheme 86
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow all wheels to rotate freely.
  4. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button. Run the vehicle with the sequential sportshift mode in 4th gear. Check the 4th Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Slow down, and stop the wheels. Is the 4th Pressure Switch ON in 4th gear? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) and the PCM. NO -Go to step 5.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector.
  7. Connect a jumper wire between the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector terminal and body ground.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  9. Check the 4th Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 4th Pressure Switch ON? YES -Replace transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) (see «TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH C (4TH CLUTCH) REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 10.
  10. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  11. Remove the jumper wire.
  12. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  13. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  14. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C37 and the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector terminal. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C37 and the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector terminal.

DTC P0877: Short in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch D (5th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch D (5th Clutch) Stuck ON

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0877 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 2nd or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 87

Scheme 87: DTC P0877: Short in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch D (5th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check the 5th Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 5th Pressure Switch ON? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  5. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) connector.
  6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  7. Check the 5th Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 5th Pressure Switch OFF? YES -Replace transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) (see «TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH D (5TH CLUTCH) REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  9. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  10. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  11. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C14 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal C14 and the transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) connector terminal. NO -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ).

DTC P0878: Open in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch D (5th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch D (5th Clutch) Stuck OFF

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0878 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 2nd through 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 88

Scheme 88: DTC P0878: Open in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch D (5th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid

Scheme 89

Scheme 89
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow all wheels to rotate freely.
  4. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button. Run the vehicle with the sequential sportshift mode in 5th gear. Check the 5th Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Slow down, and stop the wheels. Is the 5th Pressure Switch ON in 5th gear? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) and the PCM. NO -Go to step 5.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) connector.
  7. Connect a jumper wire between the transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) connector terminal and body ground.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  9. Check the 5th Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 5th Pressure Switch ON? YES -Replace transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) (see «TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH D (5TH CLUTCH) REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 10.
  10. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  11. Remove the jumper wire.
  12. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  13. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  14. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C14 and the transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) connector terminal. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C14 and the transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) connector terminal.

DTC P0962: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0962 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to 2nd or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 90

Scheme 90: DTC P0962: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Circuit

Scheme 91

Scheme 91

Scheme 92

Scheme 92

Scheme 93

Scheme 93

Scheme 94

Scheme 94
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0962 indicated? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and the PCM.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  5. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  6. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  7. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C21 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 8. NO -Go to step 10 .
  8. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector.
  9. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal C21 and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 1. NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  10. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector.
  11. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C21 and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 1. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 12. NO -Repair an open in the wire between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 1 and PCM connector terminal C21.
  12. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 13. NO -Repair an open in the wire between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 2 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101).
  13. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

DTC P0963: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0963 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to 2nd or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 95

Scheme 95: DTC P0963: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0963 indicated? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  4. Check the A/T C.P.C. Sol VLV. A Actual command with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is there 35 mA or more? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch control solenoid valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  7. Disconnect PCM connector B (49P).
  8. Check for continuity between: PCM connector terminal B1 and body ground. PCM connector terminal B40 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wires between: PCM connector terminal B1 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101). PCM connector terminal B40 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101).

DTC P0966: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0966 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 1st, 2nd, or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 96

Scheme 96: DTC P0966: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Circuit

Scheme 97

Scheme 97

Scheme 98

Scheme 98

Scheme 99

Scheme 99

Scheme 100

Scheme 100
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0966 indicated? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and the PCM.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  5. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  6. Disconnect PCM connector B (49P).
  7. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B10 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 8. NO -Go to step 10 .
  8. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector.
  9. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 1 body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal B10 and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 1. NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  10. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector.
  11. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B10 and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 1. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 12. NO -Repair an open in the wire between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 1 and PCM connector terminal B10.
  12. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 13. NO -Repair an open in the wire between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 2 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101).
  13. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

DTC P0967: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0967 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 1st, 2nd, or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 101

Scheme 101: DTC P0967: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0967 indicated? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  4. Check the A/T C.P.C. Sol VLV. B Actual command with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is there 35 mA or more? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  7. Disconnect PCM connector B (49P).
  8. Check for continuity between: PCM connector terminal B1 and body ground. PCM connector terminal B40 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wires between: PCM connector terminal B1 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101). PCM connector terminal B40 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101).

DTC P0970: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0970 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 1st, 2nd, or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 102

Scheme 102: DTC P0970: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Circuit

Scheme 103

Scheme 103

Scheme 104

Scheme 104

Scheme 105

Scheme 105

Scheme 106

Scheme 106
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0970 indicated? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C and the PCM.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  5. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  6. Disconnect PCM connector B (49P).
  7. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B21 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 8. NO -Go to step 10 .
  8. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector.
  9. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal B21 and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 1 NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  10. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector.
  11. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B21 and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 1. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 12. NO -Repair an open in the wire between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 1 and PCM connector terminal B21.
  12. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 13. NO -Repair an open in the wire between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 2 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101).
  13. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

DTC P0971: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0971 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 1st, 2nd, or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 107

Scheme 107: DTC P0971: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0971 indicated? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  4. Check the A/T C.P.C. Sol VLV. C Actual command with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is there 35 mA or more? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  7. Disconnect PCM connector B (49P).
  8. Check for continuity between: PCM connector terminal B1 and body ground. PCM connector terminal B40 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wires between: PCM connector terminal B1 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101). PCM connector terminal B40 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101).

DTC P0973: Short in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0973 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to 2nd or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 108

Scheme 108: DTC P0973: Short in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Start the engine in P, and wait for at least 1 second.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0973 indicated? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between shift solenoid valve A and the PCM.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Disconnect the shift solenoid valve A connector.
  7. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  8. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  9. Start the engine in P, and wait for at least 1 second.
  10. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0973 indicated? YES -Go to step 11. NO -Faulty shift solenoid valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (shift solenoid valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  11. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  12. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  13. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  14. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals C20 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal C20 and shift solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 2. NO -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ).

DTC P0974: Open in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0974 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to 2nd or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 109

Scheme 109: DTC P0974: Open in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit

Scheme 110

Scheme 110

Scheme 111

Scheme 111
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Start the engine. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to R, and wait for at least 1 second.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0974 indicated? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between shift solenoid valve A and the PCM.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Disconnect the shift solenoid valve A connector.
  7. Connect a jumper wire between shift solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  9. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  10. Start the engine in P, and wait for at least 1 second.
  11. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0973 indicated? YES -Go to step 12. NO -Go to step 15 .
  12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  13. Remove the jumper wire.
  14. Check for continuity between shift solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Faulty shift solenoid valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (shift solenoid valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between shift solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 1 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101).
  15. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  16. Remove the jumper wire.
  17. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  18. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  19. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C20 and shift solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C20 and shift solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 2.

DTC P0976: Short in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0976 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 1st, 2nd, or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 112

Scheme 112: DTC P0976: Short in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Start the engine. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, and wait for at least 3 seconds, then move the shift lever back into P.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0976 indicated? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Disconnect the shift solenoid valve B connector.
  7. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  8. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  9. Start the engine. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, and wait for at least 3 seconds, then move the shift lever back into P.
  10. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0976 indicated? YES -Go to step 11. NO -Faulty shift solenoid valve B. Replace the secondary valve body (shift solenoid valve B) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  11. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  12. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  13. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  14. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals C28 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal C28 and shift solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 2. NO -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ).

DTC P0977: Open in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0977 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 1st, 2nd, or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 113

Scheme 113: DTC P0977: Open in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit

Scheme 114

Scheme 114

Scheme 115

Scheme 115
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Start the engine in P, and wait for at least 1 second.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0977 indicated? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between shift solenoid valve B and the PCM.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Disconnect the shift solenoid valve B connector.
  7. Connect a jumper wire between shift solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  9. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  10. Start the engine. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, and wait for at least 3 seconds, then move the shift lever back into P.
  11. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0976 indicated? YES -Go to step 12. NO -Go to step 15 .
  12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  13. Remove the jumper wire.
  14. Check for continuity between shift solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Faulty shift solenoid valve B. Replace the secondary valve body (shift solenoid valve B) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between shift solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 1 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101).
  15. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  16. Remove the jumper wire.
  17. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  18. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  19. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C28 and shift solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C28 and shift solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 2.

DTC P0979: Short in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0979 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to 2nd or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 116

Scheme 116: DTC P0979: Short in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Start the engine in P, and wait for at least 1 second.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0979 indicated? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between shift solenoid valve C and the PCM.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Disconnect the shift solenoid valve C connector.
  7. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  8. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  9. Start the engine in P, and wait for at least 1 second.
  10. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0979 indicated? YES -Go to step 11. NO -Replace shift solenoid valve C (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE C TEST AND REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  11. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  12. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  13. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  14. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals C9 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal C9 and shift solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 2. NO -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ).

DTC P0980: Open in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0980 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to 2nd or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 117

Scheme 117: DTC P0980: Open in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit

Scheme 118

Scheme 118

Scheme 119

Scheme 119

Scheme 120

Scheme 120
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Start the engine. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to N or D, and wait for at least 1 second.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0980 indicated? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between shift solenoid valve C and the PCM.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Check for a blown No. 10 (10 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the No. 10 (10 A) fuse OK? YES -Go to step 7. NO -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A1 and the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
  7. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  8. Disconnect PCM connectors A (49P).
  9. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  10. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals A1 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES -Go to step 11. NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A1 and the driver's under-dash fuse/ relay box.
  11. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  12. Connect PCM connector A (49P).
  13. Disconnect the shift solenoid valve C connector.
  14. Connect a jumper wire between shift solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
  15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  16. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  17. Start the engine in P, and wait for at least 1 second.
  18. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P0979 indicated? YES -Go to step 19. NO -Go to step 22 .
  19. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  20. Remove the jumper wire.
  21. Check for continuity between shift solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Replace shift solenoid valve C (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE C TEST AND REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between shift solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 1 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101).
  22. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  23. Remove the jumper wire.
  24. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  25. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  26. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C9 and shift solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C9 and shift solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 2.

DTC P0989: Short in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch E (6th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch E (6th Clutch) Stuck ON

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P0989 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 3rd or 6th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 121

Scheme 121: DTC P0989: Short in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch E (6th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check the 6th Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 6th Pressure Switch ON? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  5. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) connector.
  6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  7. Check the 6th Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 6th Pressure Switch OFF? YES -Replace transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) (see «TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH E (6TH CLUTCH) REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  9. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  10. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  11. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C31 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal C31 and the transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) connector terminal. NO -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ).

DTC P0990: Open in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch E (6th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch E (6th Clutch) Stuck OFF

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P0990 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to any gear other than 3rd or 6th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 122

Scheme 122: DTC P0990: Open in Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch E (6th Clutch) Circuit, or Transmission Fluid

Scheme 123

Scheme 123
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow all wheels to rotate freely.
  4. Start the engine, disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button. Run the vehicle with the sequential sportshift mode in 6th gear. Check the 6th Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Slow down, and stop the wheels. Is the 6th Pressure Switch ON in 6th gear? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) and the PCM. NO -Go to step 5.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) connector.
  7. Connect a jumper wire between the transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) connector terminal and body ground.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  9. Check the 6th Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the 6th Pressure Switch ON? YES -Replace transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) (see «TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH E (6TH CLUTCH) REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 10.
  10. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  11. Remove the jumper wire.
  12. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  13. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  14. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C31 and the transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) connector terminal. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C31 and the transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) connector terminal.

DTC P16C0: PCM A/T Control System Incomplete Update

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is indicated when PCM updating is incomplete. Do not turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) or ACCESSORY (I), or do not press the engine start/stop button, while updating the PCM. If you do before completion, the PCM can be damaged.

  1. Update the PCM (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ).
  2. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P16C0 indicated? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -PCM updating is complete.

DTC P1717: Open in Transmission Range Switch ATPRVS Switch Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

Scheme 124

Scheme 124: DTC P1717: Open in Transmission Range Switch ATPRVS Switch Circuit

Scheme 125

Scheme 125
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Shift to R, and check the Reverse Switch (ATPRVS) signal with the HDS. Is the Reverse Switch (ATPRVS) ON? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. NO -Go to step 3.
  3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  4. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
  5. Connect a jumper wire between the transmission range switch connector terminal No. 1 and body ground.
  6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  7. Check the Reverse Switch (ATPRVS) signal with the HDS. Is the Reverse Switch (ATPRVS) ON? YES -Replace the transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  9. Remove the jumper wire.
  10. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  11. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  12. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C19 and transmission range switch connector terminal No. 1. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C19 and transmission range switch connector terminal No.

DTC P177A: Line Pressure Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF, or Line Pressure Switch Stuck OFF

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

Scheme 126

Scheme 126: DTC P177A: Line Pressure Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF, or Line Pressure Switch Stuck OFF

Scheme 127

Scheme 127

Scheme 128

Scheme 128
  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow all four wheels to rotate freely.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  6. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  7. Start the engine. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, then release the brake pedal.
  8. Monitoring the APP Sensor (%) with the HDS in the A/T Data List, press (2 % opened) and release (0 % opened) the accelerator pedal every 2 seconds. Then check the Line Pressure Sol VLV. A signal and the Line Pressure Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the Line Pressure Pressure Switch ON when Line Pressure Sol VLV. A is ON, and OFF when Line Pressure Sol VLV. A is OFF? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between the line pressure switch and the PCM. NO -Go to step 9.
  9. Select Line Pressure Solenoid A in the Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that line pressure solenoid valve A operates with the HDS. Is a clicking sound heard? YES -Go to step 16 . NO -Go to step 10.
  10. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  11. Check for a blown No. 13 (15 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the No. 13 (15 A) fuse OK? YES -Go to step 12. NO -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal B2 and the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
  12. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  13. Disconnect PCM connector B (49P).
  14. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  15. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal B2 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES -Faulty line pressure solenoid valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (line pressure solenoid valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal B2 and the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
  16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  17. Disconnect the line pressure switch connector.
  18. Connect a jumper wire between the line pressure switch connector terminal and body ground.
  19. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  20. Check the Line Pressure Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the Line Pressure Pressure Switch ON? YES -Replace the line pressure switch (see «LINE PRESSURE SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 21.
  21. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  22. Remove the jumper wire.
  23. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  24. Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).
  25. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C35 and the line pressure switch connector terminal. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between the line pressure switch connector terminal and PCM connector terminal C35.

DTC P2714: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve D Stuck OFF

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).

  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  5. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  6. Start the engine.
  7. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, and check the A/T Shift Sol VLV. B signal, the Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed, and the Shift Control with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Does the Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed remain steady when A/T Shift Sol VLV. B is OFF, and does the Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed read 0 rpm when A/T Shift Sol VLV. B is ON? YES -Go to step 8. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  8. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  9. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid Valve D in the Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate NORMAL? YES -Faulty lock-up shift valve. Replace the main valve body (lock-up shift valve) or the transmission. If you are replacing the main valve body, clean off any metal debris or excessive clutch material inside the transmission, the torque converter, the ATF cooler, the ATF hoses, the ATF pipes, and the hydraulic circuit. Then, replace the main valve body. NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

DTC P2720: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve D Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P2720 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to 2nd or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 129

Scheme 129: DTC P2720: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve D Circuit

Scheme 130

Scheme 130

Scheme 131

Scheme 131

Scheme 132

Scheme 132

Scheme 133

Scheme 133
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P2720 indicated? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D and the PCM.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  5. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  6. Disconnect PCM connector B (49P).
  7. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B43 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 8. NO -Go to step 10 .
  8. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D connector.
  9. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal B43 and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D connector terminal No. 1. NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  10. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D connector.
  11. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B43 and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D connector terminal No. 1. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 12. NO -Repair an open in the wire between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D connector terminal No. 1 and PCM connector terminal B43.
  12. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 13. NO -Repair an open in the wire between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D connector terminal No. 2 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101).
  13. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

DTC P2721: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve D

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission. If DTC P2721 is stored in the PCM, the transmission does not shift to 2nd or 5th gear because of the fail-safe function.

Scheme 134

Scheme 134: DTC P2721: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve D
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P2721 indicated? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
  4. Check the A/T C.P.C. Sol VLV. D Actual command with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is there 35 mA or more? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Faulty A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D. Replace the secondary valve body (A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  7. Disconnect PCM connector B (49P).
  8. Check for continuity between: PCM connector terminal B1 and body ground. PCM connector terminal B40 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wires between: PCM connector terminal B1 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101). PCM connector terminal B40 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101).

DTC P2821: Line Pressure Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). If DTC P2821 is stored in the PCM, engine torque is restricted because of the fail-safe function.

  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
  3. Drain the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES -Replace the transmission. NO -Replace the ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
  4. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow all four wheels to rotate freely.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  6. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  7. Start the engine. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, then release the brake pedal.
  8. Monitoring the APP Sensor (%) with the HDS in the A/T Data List, press (2 % opened) and release (0 % opened) the accelerator pedal every 2 seconds. Then check the Line Pressure Sol VLV. A signal and the Line Pressure Pressure Switch signal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. Is the Line Pressure Pressure Switch ON when Line Pressure Sol VLV. A is ON, and OFF when Line Pressure Sol VLV. A is OFF? YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. NO -Faulty line pressure solenoid valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (line pressure solenoid valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

DTC P2826: Short in Line Pressure Solenoid Valve A Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

Scheme 135

Scheme 135: DTC P2826: Short in Line Pressure Solenoid Valve A Circuit
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow all four wheels to rotate freely.
  4. Start the engine. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, then release the brake pedal.
  5. Monitoring the APP Sensor (%) with HDS in the A/T Data List, press (2 % opened) and release (0 % opened) the accelerator pedal every 2 seconds.
  6. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P2826 indicated? YES -Go to step 7. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between line pressure solenoid valve A and the PCM.
  7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  8. Disconnect the line pressure solenoid valve A connector.
  9. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  10. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  11. Start the engine. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, then release the brake pedal.
  12. Monitoring the APP Sensor (%) with HDS in the A/T Data List, press (2 % opened) and release (0 % opened) the accelerator pedal every 2 seconds.
  13. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P2826 indicated? YES -Go to step 14. NO -Faulty line pressure solenoid valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (line pressure solenoid valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  14. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  15. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  16. Disconnect PCM connector B (49P).
  17. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B44 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal B44 and line pressure solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 2. NO -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ).

DTC P2827: Open in Line Pressure Solenoid Valve A Circuit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

Scheme 136

Scheme 136: DTC P2827: Open in Line Pressure Solenoid Valve A Circuit

Scheme 137

Scheme 137

Scheme 138

Scheme 138
  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Start the engine in P, and wait for at least 1 second.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P2827 indicated? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections and loose terminals between line pressure solenoid valve A and the PCM.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  6. Disconnect the line pressure solenoid valve A connector.
  7. Connect a jumper wire between line pressure solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  9. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  10. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow all four wheels to rotate freely.
  11. Start the engine. With the brake pedal pressed, shift to D, then release the brake pedal.
  12. Monitoring the APP Sensor (%) with HDS in the A/T Data List, press (2 % opened) and release (0 % opened) the accelerator pedal every 2 seconds.
  13. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P2826 indicated? YES -Go to step 14. NO -Go to step 17 .
  14. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  15. Remove the jumper wire.
  16. Check for continuity between line pressure solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Faulty line pressure solenoid valve A. Replace the secondary valve body (line pressure solenoid valve A) (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between line pressure solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 1 and body ground (G101) (see «CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__connector-to-fuserelay-box-index) ), or repair poor body ground (G101).
  17. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  18. Remove the jumper wire.
  19. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  20. Disconnect PCM connector B (49P).
  21. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B44 and line pressure solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal B44 and line pressure solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 2.

DTC U0029: F-CAN Communication Circuit Error (F-CAN Bus OFF)

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the PGM-FI SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC U0029 indicated in the PGM-FI SYSTEM? YES -Go to the DTC U0029 troubleshooting in the PGM-FI SYSTEM (see «DTC TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line) ). NO -Go to step 4.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the ATT SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC U0029 indicated in the A/T SYSTEM? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs or DTCs were indicated, go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) .
  5. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ).
  6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode, and wait for at least 2 minutes.
  7. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the A/T SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC U0029 indicated in the A/T SYSTEM? YES -Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 2 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 6 . NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Monitor the OBD STATUS for U0029 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate PASSED? YES -If the PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs or DTCs were indicated in step 7 , go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . NO -If the HDS indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose terminals at the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 6 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 6 . If the HDS indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 2 .

DTC U0104: Lost Communication with Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) Unit-PCM

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the PGM-FI SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC U0104 indicated in the PGM-FI SYSTEM? YES -Go to the DTC U0104 troubleshooting in the PGM-FI SYSTEM (see «DTC U0104: F-CAN A MALFUNCTION (PCM-ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL (ACC) UNIT)»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dtc-u0104-f-can-a-malfunction-pcm-adaptive) ). NO -Go to step 4.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the A/T SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC U0104 indicated in the A/T SYSTEM? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated, go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) .
  5. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ).
  6. Start the engine, and wait for at least 2 minutes.
  7. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the A/T SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC U0104 indicated in the A/T SYSTEM? YES -Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the adaptive cruise control (ACC) unit and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 6 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 2 . NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Monitor the OBD STATUS for U0104 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate PASSED? YES -If the PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs or DTCs were indicated in step 7 , go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . NO -If the HDS indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose terminals between the adaptive cruise control (ACC) unit and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 6 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 2 . If the HDS indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 6 .

DTC U0122: Lost Communication with VSA Modulator-Control Unit

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the PGM-FI SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC U0122 indicated in the PGM-FI SYSTEM? YES -Go to the DTC U0122 troubleshooting in the PGM-FI SYSTEM (see «DTC U0122: F-CAN A MALFUNCTION (PCM-VSA MODULATOR-CONTROL UNIT)»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dtc-u0122-f-can-a-malfunction-pcm-vsa) ). NO -Go to step 4.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the A/T SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC U0122 indicated in the A/T SYSTEM? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated, go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) .
  5. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ).
  6. Start the engine, and wait for at least 2 minutes.
  7. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the A/T SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC U0122 indicated in the A/T SYSTEM? YES -Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the VSA modulator-control unit and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 6 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 2 . NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Monitor the OBD STATUS for U0122 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate PASSED? YES -If the PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs or DTCs were indicated in step 7 , go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . NO -If the HDS indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose terminals between the VSA modulator-control unit and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 6 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 2 . If the HDS indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 6 .

DTC U0155: Lost Communication with Gauge Control Module

Note. Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot with the HDS, and review the General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.

  1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
  3. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the PGM-FI SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC U0155 indicated in the PGM-FI SYSTEM? YES -Go to the DTC U0155 troubleshooting in the PGM-FI SYSTEM (see «DTC U0155: F-CAN A MALFUNCTION (PCM-GAUGE CONTROL MODULE)»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dtc-u0155-f-can-a-malfunction-pcm-gauge) ). NO -Go to step 4.
  4. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the A/T SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC U0155 indicated in the A/T SYSTEM? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs or DTCs were indicated, go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) .
  5. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ).
  6. Start the engine, and wait for at least 2 minutes.
  7. Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs in the A/T SYSTEM with the HDS. Is DTC U0155 indicated in the A/T SYSTEM? YES -Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the gauge control module and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 6 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 2 . NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Monitor the OBD STATUS for U0155 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the HDS indicate PASSED? YES -If the PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs were indicated in step 7 , go to the indicated «DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) . NO -If the HDS indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose terminals between the gauge control module and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), then go to step 6 . If the PCM was substituted, go to step 2 . If the HDS indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 6 .

Scheme 139

Scheme 139: Road Test
  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Apply the parking brake, and block all four wheels. Start the engine, then shift to D while pressing the brake pedal. Press the accelerator pedal, and release it suddenly. The engine should not stall.
  3. Repeat step 2 in all shift lever positions.
  4. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  6. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM, and go to the A/T Data List. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
  7. Prepare the HDS to take a HIGH SPEED SNAPSHOT (refer to the HDS user's guide for more details if needed): Select the High Speed icon. Select these parameters: Vehicle Speed Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed (rpm) Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed (rpm) Engine Speed TP Sensor APP Sensor A (V) ETR-Battery Voltage Shift Control Brake Switch Set the Trigger Type to Parameter. Adjust the Parameter setting to APP Sensor A above 1.11V. Set the Record Time to 60 seconds. Set the Trigger Point to (Negative) -30 seconds.
  8. Find a suitable level road. When you are ready to do the test, press OK on the HDS.
  9. Accelerate quickly until APP Sensor A reads 1.21 V. Maintain a steady throttle until the transmission shifts to 6th gear, then slow the vehicle and come to a stop.
  10. Save the snapshot if the entire event was recorded or increase the recording time setting as necessary, and repeat step 9 .
  11. Adjust the parameter setting to 2.18 V. Test-drive the vehicle again. Accelerate quickly until APP Sensor A reads 2.28 V. Maintain a steady throttle until the transmission shifts to 6th gear (or a reasonable speed), then slow the vehicle and come to a stop.
  12. Save the snapshot if the entire event was recorded or increase the recording time setting as necessary, and repeat step 11 .
  13. Accelerate quickly until the accelerator pedal is to the floor. Maintain a steady pedal until the transmission shifts to 5th gear, then slow to a stop, and save the snapshot.
  14. Review each snapshot individually, and compare the Shift Control, APP Sensor A (V), and the Vehicle Speed to the following table: UPSHIFT: D POSITION APP sensor A (V): 1.21 V 1st-->2nd 6-7 mph (10-12 km/h) 2nd-->3rd 11-14 mph (18-22 km/h) 3rd-->4th 20-22 mph (32-36 km/h) 4th-->5th 27-31 mph (44-50 km/h) 5th-->6th 40-43 mph (64-70 km/h) Lock-up ON 2-5 mph (4-8 km/h) APP sensor A (V): 2.28 V 1st-->2nd 14-16 mph (23-27 km/h) 2nd-->3rd 26-29 mph (42-48 km/h) 3rd-->4th 38-41 mph (61-67 km/h) 4th-->5th 53-56 mph (85-91 km/h) 5th-->6th 75-78 mph (121-127 km/h) Lock-up ON 4-6 mph (6-10 km/h) Fully-opened throttle APP sensor A (V): 4.42 V 1st-->2nd 34-37 mph (54-60 km/h) 2nd-->3rd 57-60 mph (92-98 km/h) 3rd-->4th 81-84 mph (130-136 km/h) 4th-->5th 113-116 mph (182-188 km/h) Lock-up ON 9-13 mph (15-21 km/h) DOWNSHIFT: D POSITION APP sensor A (V): 1.21 V Lock-up OFF 1-3 mph (2-6 km/h) 6th-->5th 37-41 mph (60-66 km/h) 5th-->4th 25-28 mph (40-46 km/h) 4th-->3rd 16-19 mph (26-30 km/h) 2nd-->1st 3-6 mph (5-9 km/h) APP sensor A (V): 2.28 V Lock-up OFF 1-3 mph (2-6 km/h) 6th-->5th 52-56 mph (84-90 km/h) 5th-->4th 37-40 mph (59-65 km/h) 4th-->3rd 24-27 mph (39-45 km/h) 3rd-->2nd 15-18 mph (24-30 km/h) 2nd-->1st 3-6 mph (5-9 km/h) Fully-opened throttle APP sensor A (V): 4.42 V Lock-up OFF 1-3 mph (2-6 km/h) 5th-->4th 99-103 mph (160-166 km/h) 4th-->3rd 71-74 mph (114-120 km/h) 3rd-->2nd 41-51 mph (77-83 km/h) 2nd-->1st 23-27 mph (37-43 km/h)
  15. Drive the vehicle in 5th or 6th gear in S with the sequential sportshift mode, then decelerate and downshift to 2nd gear. The vehicle should immediately begin to slow down from the engine braking, then slow to a stop.
  16. Shift to R, accelerate from a stop at to full throttle momentarily, and check for abnormal noise and clutch slippage.
  17. Park the vehicle on an upward slope (about 16 degrees), apply the parking brake, and shift into P, Release the brake; the vehicle should not move.

Note. Always use the parking brake to hold the vehicle when stopped on an incline in gear. Depending on the grade of the incline, the vehicle could roll if the brake is released.

Scheme 140

Scheme 140: Stall Speed Test
  1. Make sure the transmission fluid is filled to the proper level (see «ATF LEVEL CHECK»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-level-check) ).
  2. Apply the parking brake, and block all four wheels.
  3. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM, and go to the A/T Data List. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
  6. Make sure the A/C switch is OFF.
  7. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  8. Shift to D while pressing the brake pedal firmly, then press the accelerator pedal for 6 to 8 seconds, and note the engine speed. Do not move the shift lever or remove your foot off the brake pedal, while raising the engine speed.
  9. Allow 2 minutes for cooling between test, then repeat the test with the shift lever in S and R. NOTE: Do not test stall speed for more than 10 seconds at a time. Record the engine speed at 6 to 8 seconds after pressing the accelerator pedal. Higher engine speed will be indicated for 5 seconds. Stall speed tests should be used for diagnostic purposes only. The stall speed should be the same in D, S, and R. Do not test stall speed with A/T pressure gauges installed. Stall Speed rpm: Specification: 2, 000 rpm Service Limit: 1, 800-2, 100 rpm
  10. If any of the stall speeds are out of the service limit, refer to the problems and probable causes listed in the chart below. Problem Probable causes Stall speed rpm high in D, S, and R ATF pump output low Main regulator valve stuck Slipping clutch Stall speed rpm high in R Slippage of 4th clutch Stall speed rpm low in D, S, and R Engine output low Engine throttle valve closed Torque converter one-way clutch slipping

Pressure Test

Special Tools Required

  1. A/T Oil Pressure Gauge Set 07406-0020400 or 07406-0020401
  2. A/T Pressure Test Hose 07AAJ-PY4A100
  3. A/T Pressure Adapter 07MAJ-PY40120
  4. Pressure Gauge Adapter 070AJ-RT4A101

Note. Disable the VSA by pressing the VSA OFF button. VSA DTC (s) may come on during the test-drive. If the VSA DTC (s) come on, clear the DTC (s) after testing is done with the HDS.

Scheme 141

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Scheme 144

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Scheme 145

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Scheme 146

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Scheme 147

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Scheme 148

Scheme 148

Scheme 149

Scheme 149

Scheme 150

Scheme 150

Scheme 151

Scheme 151

Scheme 152

Scheme 152

Scheme 153

Scheme 153
  1. Make sure the transmission fluid is filled to the proper level (see «ATF LEVEL CHECK»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-level-check) ).
  2. Raise the vehicle on a lift, and make sure it is securely supported.
  3. Allow all four wheels to rotate freely.
  4. Remove the engine undercover (A) and the front splash shield (B).
  5. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
  6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  7. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM, and go to the A/T Data List. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
  8. Connect the A/T pressure adapter to the ATT pressure test hose, then connect the A/T pressure test hose to the A/T oil pressure gauge set.
  9. When testing the oil pressure at each inspection port, select a suitable adapter from the following table, and connect each adapter to the pressure gauge assembled in step 8 . Tool Connect to Pressure gauge adapter A and E 2nd clutch pressure 4th clutch pressure Pressure gauge adapter B 1st clutch pressure 5th clutch pressure Torque converter clutch pressure Pressure gauge adapter C Line pressure Pressure gauge adapter D 3rd clutch pressure 6th clutch pressure PRESSURE GAUGE ADAPTER 070AJ-RT4A101
  10. Install pressure gauge adapter C to the line pressure inspection port (A). Do not allow dust or other foreign particles to enter the port while connecting pressure gauge adapter C. Connect the A/T pressure adapter to pressure gauge adapter C.
  11. Start the engine in P, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (ATF temperature between 122°F and 212°F (50°C and 100°C)).
  12. Move the shift lever to D.
  13. Measure the low line pressure when the APP sensor opening less than 18 % with the HDS in the A/T Data List.
  14. Measure the normal line pressure while holding the engine speed at 2, 000 rpm with the shift lever in P or N. NOTE: When measuring the normal line pressure, do not measure with the shift lever in other than P or N. Line Pressure Fluid Pressure Standard Service Limit Low 667-716 kPa (6.80-7.30 kgf/cm 2 , 96.7 -103.8 psi) Lower limit: 618 kPa (6.30 kgf/cm 2 , 89.6 psi) Upper limit: 765 kPa (7.80 kgf/cm 2 , 111.0 psi) Normal 1, 122-1, 172 kPa (11.44-11.95 kgf/cm 2 , 162.7-170.0 psi) 1, 079 kPa (11.00 kgf/cm 2 , 156.5 psi)
  15. Turn the engine off, then disconnect pressure gauge adapter C from the line pressure inspection port.
  16. Install a new sealing bolt to the line pressure inspection port, and tighten the bolt to 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 15 lbf.ft). Do not reuse the old sealing bolt.
  17. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  18. Remove the intake air duct (A). NOTE: When installing the intake air duct, tighten the screw of the hose clamp (B) aligning the edge of the hose clamp (C) with the painted mark (D).
  19. Install pressure gauge adapter B to the 1st clutch pressure inspection port (A) and the 5th clutch pressure inspection port (C), then connect the A/T pressure adapter to pressure gauge adapter B.
  20. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) connector, and remove transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch).
  21. Install transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) (B) and the washer (C) to pressure gauge adapter A, then connect the A/T pressure adapter to pressure gauge adapter A.
  22. Install pressure gauge adapter E (quick connector) to the 2nd clutch pressure inspection port (B), then connect pressure gauge adapter A to pressure gauge adapter E (quick connector). Connect the transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) connector to transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch).
  23. Temporarily install the intake air duct and the air cleaner.
  24. Start the engine, and run the vehicle with the sequential sportshift mode in 1st and 2nd gears.
  25. Measure the 1st and 2nd clutch pressures when the APP sensor opening 20 % or more by quickly pressing on the accelerator pedal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. NOTE: Do not press on the accelerator pedal slowly.
  26. Upshift to 5th gear by pressing the paddle shifter + (upshift switch), and measure the 5th clutch pressure when the APP sensor opening 20 % or more by quickly pressing on the accelerator pedal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. NOTE: Do not press on the accelerator pedal slowly. Pressure Fluid Pressure Standard Service Limit 1st clutch 2nd clutch 5th clutch 1, 122-1, 172 kPa (11.44-11.95 kgf/cm 2 , 162.7-170.0 psi) 1, 079 kPa (11.00 kgf/cm 2 , 156.5 psi)
  27. Turn the engine off, remove the intake air duct and the air cleaner.
  28. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) connector from transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch). Disconnect the pressure gauge adapters from the 1st, 2nd, and 5th clutch pressure inspection ports.
  29. Remove transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) form pressure gauge adapter A.
  30. Install transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) and a new sealing washer, and tighten transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) to 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 15 lbf.ft). Do not reuse the old sealing washer.
  31. Connect the transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) connector.
  32. Install new sealing bolts in the 1st and 5th clutch pressure inspection ports, and tighten the sealing bolts to 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 15 lbf.ft). Do not reuse the old sealing bolts.
  33. Install pressure gauge adapter D to the 3rd pressure inspection port (A) and the 6th pressure inspection port (B), then connect the A/T pressure adapter to pressure gauge adapter D.
  34. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector, and remove transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch).
  35. Install transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) (B) and the washer (C) to pressure gauge adapter A, then connect the A/T pressure adapter to pressure gauge adapter A.
  36. Install pressure gauge adapter E (quick connector) to the 4th clutch pressure inspection port (B), then connect pressure gauge adapter A to pressure gauge adapter E (quick connector). Connect the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector to transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch).
  37. Temporarily install the intake air duct and the air cleaner.
  38. Start the engine, and run the vehicle with the sequential sportshift mode in 3rd gear.
  39. Measure the 3rd clutch pressure when the APP sensor opening 20 % or more by quickly pressing on the accelerator pedal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. NOTE: Do not press on the accelerator pedal slowly.
  40. Upshift to 4th gear by pressing the paddle shifter + (upshift switch), and measure the 4th clutch pressure when the APP sensor opening 20 % or more by quickly pressing on the accelerator pedal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. NOTE: Do not press on the accelerator pedal slowly.
  41. Upshift to 6th gear by pressing the paddle shifter + (upshift switch), and measure the 6th clutch pressure when the APP sensor opening 20 % or more by quickly pressing on the accelerator pedal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. NOTE: Do not press on the accelerator pedal slowly. Pressure Fluid Pressure Standard Service Limit 3rd clutch 4th clutch 6th clutch 1, 122-1, 172 kPa (11.44-11.95 kgf/cm 2 , 162.7-170.0 psi) 1, 079 kPa (11.00 kgf/cm 2 , 156.5 psi)
  42. Bring the engine back to an idle, then apply the brake pedal to stop the wheels from rotating.
  43. Shift to R, then release the brake pedal. Measure the 4th clutch pressure when the APP sensor opening 20 % or more by quickly pressing on the accelerator pedal with the HDS in the A/T Data List. NOTE: Do not press on the accelerator pedal slowly. Pressure Fluid Pressure Standard Service Limit 4th clutch in R 1, 122-1, 172 kPa (11.44-11.95 kgf/cm 2 , 162.7-170.0 psi) 1, 079 kPa (11.00 kgf/cm 2 , 156.5 psi)
  44. Turn the engine off, then remove the intake air duct and the air cleaner.
  45. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector. Disconnect the pressure gauge adapters from the 3rd, 4th, and 6th clutch pressure inspection ports.
  46. Remove transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) from pressure gauge adapter A.
  47. Install transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) and a new sealing washer, and tighten transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) to 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 15 lbf.ft). Do not reuse the old sealing washer.
  48. Connect the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector.
  49. Install new sealing bolts in the 3rd and 6th clutch pressure inspection ports, and tighten the sealing bolts to 27 N.m (2.8 kgf.m, 20 lbf.ft). Do not reuse the old sealing bolts.
  50. Install the intake air duct.
  51. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  52. Install pressure gauge adapter B to the torque converter clutch pressure inspection port (A), then connect the A/T pressure adapter to pressure gauge adapter B.
  53. Start the engine, and run the vehicle with sequential sportshift mode in 2nd gear.
  54. Measure the torque converter clutch pressure while holding the engine speed at 4, 000 rpm. Pressure Fluid Pressure Standard Service Limit Torque converter clutch pressure 294 kPa (3.00 kgf/cm 2 , 42.7 psi) 245 kPa (2.50 kgf/cm 2 , 35.6 psi)
  55. Turn the engine off, then disconnect pressure gauge adapter B from the torque converter clutch pressure inspection port.
  56. Install a new sealing bolt to the torque converter clutch pressure inspection port, and tighten the sealing bolt to 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 15 lbf.ft). Do not reuse the old sealing bolt.
  57. If any of the pressures are out of the service limit, refer to the problems and probable causes listed in the chart. Problem Probable causes No or low line pressure Torque converter ATF pump Main regulator valve Clogged ATF strainer No or low 1st clutch pressure 1st clutch No or low 2nd clutch pressure 2nd clutch No or low 3rd clutch pressure 3rd clutch No or low 4th clutch pressure 4th clutch No or low 5th clutch pressure 5th clutch No or low 6th clutch pressure 6th clutch No or low 4th clutch pressure in R Shift fork shaft 4th clutch No or low torque converter clutch pressure Lock-up control valve Lock-up shift valve Shift solenoid valve C
  58. Install the front splash shield and the engine undercover.

Scheme 154

Scheme 154: Secondary Valve Body Replacement

Scheme 155

Scheme 155

Scheme 156

Scheme 156

Scheme 157

Scheme 157

Scheme 158

Scheme 158

Scheme 159

Scheme 159

Scheme 160

Scheme 160

Scheme 161

Scheme 161

Scheme 162

Scheme 162

Scheme 163

Scheme 163

Scheme 164

Scheme 164

Scheme 165

Scheme 165

Scheme 166

Scheme 166

Scheme 167

Scheme 167

Scheme 168

Scheme 168

Scheme 169

Scheme 169

Scheme 170

Scheme 170
  1. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  2. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  3. Remove the intake air duct (see step 8 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  4. Remove the battery heat shield (see step 9 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  5. Remove the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 10 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  6. Remove the battery base (see step 11 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  7. Remove the ATF dipstick and the starter (see step 16 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  8. Disconnect these connectors: Shift solenoid valve A connector (A) Shift solenoid valve B connector (B) Shift solenoid valve C connector (C) Line pressure solenoid valve A connector (D)
  9. Remove the harness clamps (E).
  10. Disconnect these connectors: A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector (A) A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector (B) A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector (C) A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D connector (D) Transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) connector (E) Transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) connector (F) Line pressure switch connector (G) Transmission range switch connector (H)
  11. Remove the bolt (I) securing the harness cover (J), and remove the harness clamp (K).
  12. Remove the harness cover bracket (A).
  13. Raise the vehicle on a lift, and make sure it is supported securely.
  14. Remove the engine undercover (A) and the front splash shield (B).
  15. Disconnect the ATF temperature sensor connector (A), then remove the harness clamps (B).
  16. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector (A), then remove the harness clamp (B).
  17. Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector (A) and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector (B), then remove the harness clamps (C).
  18. Remove the harness clamp (A), then remove the ATF dipstick guide tube (B) with the O-ring (C).
  19. Remove the secondary valve body (A) and the gasket (B). Remove the ATF pipes (C). NOTE: There are 11 ATF pipes. Do not drop the ATF pipes into the transmission. If an ATF pipe is dropped into the transmission, the transmission will need to be disassembled to recover the pipe (s).
  20. Replace the secondary valve body.
  21. Clean the mounting surfaces of the transmission housing. Do not allow dust or other foreign particles to enter the transmission.
  22. Apply ATF to new O-rings (A), and install the O-rings over the ATF pipes (B). Then install the ATF pipes with the filter ends (C) facing the secondary valve body (D) into the transmission.
  23. Install a new gasket (E) to the transmission housing.
  24. Install the secondary valve body while aligning the ATF pipes with the pipe holes on the secondary valve body, and secure the secondary valve body with the bolts.
  25. Install the dipstick guide tube (A) with a new O-ring (B), and install the harness clamp (C).
  26. Install the harness cover bracket (A).
  27. Install the bolt (A) securing the harness cover (B), and install the harness clamp (C).
  28. Connect these connectors: A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector (D) A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector (E) A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector (F) A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D connector (G) Transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) connector (H) Transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) connector (I) Line pressure switch connector (J) Transmission range switch connector (K)
  29. Install the harness clamps (A).
  30. Connect these connectors: Shift solenoid valve A connector (B) Shift solenoid valve B connector (C) Shift solenoid valve C connector (D) Line pressure solenoid valve A connector (E)
  31. Connect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector (A) and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector (B), and install the harness clamps (C).
  32. Connect the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector (A), and install the harness clamp (B).
  33. Connect the ATF temperature sensor connector (A), and install the harness clamps (B).
  34. install the front splash shield and the engine undercover.
  35. Install the starter (see step 61 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  36. Install the ATF dipstick.
  37. Install the battery base (see step 66 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  38. Install the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 67 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  39. Install the battery heat shield (see step 68 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  40. Install the intake air duct (see step 69 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  41. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  42. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).

Scheme 171

Scheme 171: Shift Solenoid Valve A and B Test

Scheme 172

Scheme 172
  1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
  3. Select Shift Solenoid Valve A or B in the Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS.
  4. Check that shift solenoid valve A or B operates with the HDS. A clicking sound should be heard. If a clicking sound is heard, the solenoid valve is OK. The test is complete, disconnect the HDS. If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 5 and test the solenoid valve.
  5. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  6. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  7. Remove the intake air duct (see step 8 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  8. Remove the battery heat shield (see step 9 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  9. Remove the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 10 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  10. Remove the battery base (see step 11 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  11. Remove the ATF dipstick and the starter (see step 16 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  12. Remove the secondary valve body (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  13. Measure the resistance of the shift solenoid valve between connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Standard: 13.3-16.9 ohms at 32-86°F (0-30°C) If the resistance is out of the standard, replace the secondary valve body, then go to step 15 . If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 14 and check the solenoid valve for a clicking sound. Terminal side of male terminals
  14. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to shift solenoid valve A or B connector terminal No. 1, and connect another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 2. If a clicking sound is heard, repair the wire between the PCM connector terminal and the defective shift solenoid valve, then go to step 15. If no clicking sound is heard, replace the secondary valve body, then go to step 15.
  15. Install the secondary valve body (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  16. Install the starter (see step 61 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  17. Install the ATF dipstick.
  18. Install the battery base (see step 66 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  19. Install the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 67 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  20. Install the battery heat shield (see step 68 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  21. Install the intake air duct (see step 69 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  22. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  23. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).

Scheme 173

Scheme 173: Shift Solenoid Valve C Test and Replacement

Scheme 174

Scheme 174

Scheme 175

Scheme 175

Scheme 176

Scheme 176
  1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
  3. Select Shift Solenoid Valve C in the Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS.
  4. Check that shift solenoid valve C operates with the HDS. A clicking sound should be heard. If a clicking sound is heard, the solenoid valve is OK. The test is complete, disconnect the HDS. If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 5 and test the solenoid valve.
  5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, and make sure it is securely supported.
  6. Remove the engine undercover (A) and the front splash shield (B).
  7. Disconnect the shift solenoid valve C connector (A), and remove shift solenoid valve C with the O-rings (B).
  8. Measure the resistance of the shift solenoid valve between connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Standard: 13.3-16.9 ohms at 32-86°F (0-30°C) If the resistance is out of the standard, go to step 13 and replace the shift solenoid valve. If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 9 and check the solenoid valve for a clicking sound and operation.
  9. Connect a tube (A) to shift solenoid valve C.
  10. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to shift solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 1, and connect another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 2. If a clicking sound is heard, go to step 11. If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 13 and replace the shift solenoid valve.
  11. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to shift solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 1, and connect another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 2. Blow the air to the tube. If the air goes out of the port (B), go to step 12. If the air does not go out of the port (B), go to step 13 and replace the shift solenoid valve.
  12. Disconnect the jumper wires from the shift solenoid valve C connector. Blow air into the tube (A): If the air goes out of the port (B), go to step 13 and replace shift solenoid valve C. If the air does not go out of the port (B), repair the wire between the PCM connector terminal and shift solenoid valve C.
  13. Install new O-rings (three O-rings per solenoid valve) on the solenoid valve. NOTE: A new solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. If you install a new solenoid valve, use the O-rings provided with it.
  14. Install shift solenoid valve C, and connect the shift solenoid valve C connector.
  15. Install the engine undercover and the front splash shield.

Scheme 177

Scheme 177: Line Pressure Solenoid Valve A Test

Scheme 178

Scheme 178
  1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
  3. Select Line Pressure Solenoid Valve A in the Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS.
  4. Check that line pressure solenoid valve A operate with the HDS. A clicking sound should be heard. If a clicking sound is heard, the solenoid valve is OK. The test is complete, disconnect the HDS. If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 5 and test the solenoid valve.
  5. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  6. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  7. Remove the intake air duct (see step 8 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  8. Remove the battery heat shield (see step 9 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  9. Remove the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 10 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  10. Remove the battery base (see step 11 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  11. Remove the ATF dipstick and the starter (see step 16 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  12. Remove the secondary valve body (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  13. Measure the resistance of line pressure solenoid valve A between connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Standard: 13.3-16.9 ohms at 32-86°F (0-30°C) If the resistance is out of the standard, replace the secondary valve body, then go to step 15 . If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 14 and check the solenoid valve for a clicking sound.
  14. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to line pressure solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 1, and connect another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 2. If a clicking sound is heard, repair the wire between the PCM connector terminal and line pressure solenoid valve A, then go to step 15. If no clicking sound is heard, replace the secondary valve body, then go to step 15.
  15. Install the secondary valve body (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  16. Install the starter (see step 61 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  17. Install the ATF dipstick.
  18. Install the battery base (see step 66 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  19. Install the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 67 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  20. Install the battery heat shield (see step 68 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  21. Install the intake air duct (see step 69 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  22. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  23. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).

Scheme 179

Scheme 179: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A, B, C, and D Test

Scheme 180

Scheme 180
  1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located under the driver's of the dashboard.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
  3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid Valve A, B, C, or D in the Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS.
  4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A, B, C, or D with the HDS. If the valves test OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS. If the valves do not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS. If the valves do not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
  5. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  6. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  7. Remove the intake air duct (see step 8 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  8. Remove the battery heat shield (see step 9 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  9. Remove the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 10 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  10. Remove the battery base (see step 11 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  11. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A, B, C, or D connector.
  12. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A, B, C, or D resistance between connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Standard: 4.5-5.9 ohms at 32-86°F (0-30°C) If the resistance is out of the standard, replace the secondary valve body (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 13.
  13. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to solenoid valve A, B, C, or D connector terminal No. 2, and connect another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. If an operating sound is heard, the solenoid valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed parts. If no operating sound is heard, replace the secondary valve body (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

Scheme 181

Scheme 181: Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Replacement

Scheme 182

Scheme 182
  1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block both rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported.
  2. Remove the engine undercover (A) and the front splash shield (B).
  3. Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (A).
  4. Install a new O-ring (B) on the new input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then install the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor.
  5. Check the connector for corrosion, dirt, or oil, and clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector securely.
  6. Install the front splash shield and the engine undercover.

Scheme 183

Scheme 183: Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Replacement

Scheme 184

Scheme 184
  1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block both rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported.
  2. Remove the engine undercover (A) and the front splash shield (B).
  3. Disconnect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (A).
  4. Install a new O-ring (B) on the new output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then install the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor.
  5. Check the connector for corrosion, dirt, or oil, and clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector securely.
  6. Install the front splash shield and the engine undercover.

Scheme 185

Scheme 185: Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch A (2nd Clutch) Replacement
  1. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  2. Remove the intake air duct (see step 8 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  3. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) connector, and remove transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) and the sealing washer (B).
  4. Install transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) and a new sealing washer, and tighten the switch.
  5. Check the connector for corrosion, dirt, or oil, and clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector securely.
  6. Install the intake air duct (see step 69 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  7. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).

Scheme 186

Scheme 186: Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch B (3rd Clutch) Replacement
  1. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  2. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  3. Remove the intake air duct (see step 8 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  4. Remove the battery heat shield (see step 9 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  5. Remove the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 10 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  6. Remove the battery base (see step 11 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  7. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) connector, and remove transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) and the sealing washer (A).
  8. Install transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) and a new sealing washer, and tighten the switch.
  9. Check the connector for corrosion, dirt, or oil, and clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector securely.
  10. Install the battery base (see step 66 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  11. Install the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 67 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  12. Install the battery heat shield (see step 68 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  13. Install the intake air duct (see step 69 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  14. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  15. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).

Scheme 187

Scheme 187: Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch C (4th Clutch) Replacement

Scheme 188

Scheme 188
  1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block both rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported.
  2. Remove the engine undercover (A) and the front splash shield (B).
  3. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector, and remove transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) and the sealing washer (A).
  4. Install transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) and a new sealing washer, and tighten the switch.
  5. Check the connector for corrosion, dirt, or oil, and clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector securely.
  6. Install the front splash shield and the engine undercover.

Scheme 189

Scheme 189: Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch D (5th Clutch) Replacement
  1. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  2. Remove the intake air duct (see step 8 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  3. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) connector, and remove transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) and the sealing washer (A).
  4. Install transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) and a new sealing washer, and tighten the switch.
  5. Check the connector for corrosion, dirt, or oil, and clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector securely.
  6. Install the intake air duct (see step 69 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  7. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).

Scheme 190

Scheme 190: Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch E (6th Clutch) Replacement
  1. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  2. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  3. Remove the intake air duct (see step 8 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  4. Remove the battery heat shield (see step 9 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  5. Remove the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 10 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  6. Remove the battery base (see step 11 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  7. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) connector, and remove transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) and the sealing washer (A).
  8. Install transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) and a new sealing washer, and tighten the switch.
  9. Check the connector for corrosion, dirt, or oil, and clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector securely.
  10. Install the battery base (see step 66 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  11. Install the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 67 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  12. Install the battery heat shield (see step 68 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  13. Install the intake air duct (see step 69 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  14. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  15. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).

Scheme 191

Scheme 191: Line Pressure Switch Replacement
  1. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  2. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  3. Remove the intake air duct (see step 8 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  4. Remove the battery heat shield (see step 9 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  5. Remove the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 10 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  6. Remove the battery base (see step 11 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  7. Disconnect the line pressure switch connector, and remove the line pressure switch (A) and the sealing washer (B).
  8. Install the line pressure switch and a new sealing washer, and tighten the switch.
  9. Check the connector for corrosion, dirt, or oil, and clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector securely.
  10. Install the battery base (see step 66 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  11. Install the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 67 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  12. Install the battery heat shield (see step 68 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  13. Install the intake air duct (see step 69 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  14. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  15. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).

Scheme 192

Scheme 192: ATF Temperature Sensor Replacement

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  1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block both rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported.
  2. Remove the engine undercover (A) and the front splash shield (B).
  3. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
  4. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B).
  5. Disconnect the ATF temperature sensor connector (A), then remove the ATF temperature sensor (B).
  6. Install a new O-ring (C) on a new ATF temperature sensor, and install the ATF temperature sensor.
  7. Check the connector for corrosion, dirt, or oil, and clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector securely.
  8. Refill the transmission with ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ).
  9. Install the front splash shield and the engine undercover.

ATF Level Check

Note. Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission. Check the fluid level within 60-90 seconds after turning the engine off. Higher fluid level may be indicated if the radiator fan comes on twice or more.

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Scheme 195: ATF Level Check

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  1. Park the vehicle on the level ground.
  2. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on), then turn the engine off.
  3. Remove the ATF dipstick (yellow loop) (A) from the dipstick guide tube, and wipe it with a clean cloth.
  4. Insert the dipstick back into the dipstick guide tube (B) aligning the notch (C) with the guide tab (D).
  5. Remove the dipstick and check the fluid level. It should be between the upper mark (A) and the lower mark (B).
  6. If the ATF level is below the lower mark, check for fluid leaks at the transmission, the hoses, and the line joints. If a problem is found, fix it before filling the transmission with ATF. NOTE: If the vehicle is driven when the ATF level is below the lower mark, one or more of these symptoms may occur: Transmission damage. Vehicle does not move in any gear. Vehicle accelerates poorly, and flares when starting off in forward and reverse positions. The engine vibrates at idle.
  7. If the ATF level is above the upper mark, drain the ATF to proper level (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ). NOTE: If the vehicle is driven when the ATF level is above the upper mark, the vehicle may creep forward while in N, or have shifting problems.
  8. If necessary, fill the transmission with the recommended fluid through the filler hole (A) to bring the fluid level between the upper mark and the lower mark of the dipstick. Do not fill past the upper mark. Always use Acura ATF DW-1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Acura ATF can affect shift quality.
  9. Install the ATF filler bolt (B) and a new sealing washer (C).
  10. Insert the dipstick back into the dipstick guide tube.

ATF Replacement

Note. Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission.

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Scheme 198: ATF Replacement

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  1. Park the vehicle on the level ground.
  2. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on), and turn the engine off.
  3. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported.
  4. Remove the engine undercover.
  5. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  6. Remove the intake air duct (see step 8 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  7. Remove the ATF filler bolt (A) and the sealing washer (B).
  8. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). NOTE: If a cooler cleaning is necessary, refer to the «ATF COOLER CLEANING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-cooler-cleaning) .
  9. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B).
  10. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid through the filler hole (A). Always use Acura ATF DW-1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Acura ATF can affect shift quality. Automatic Transmission Fluid Capacity: 3.1 L (3.3 US qt) 8.0 L (8.5 US qt) at overhaul
  11. Install the ATF filler bolt (B) and a new sealing washer (C).
  12. Remove the ATF dipstick (A).
  13. Make sure the fluid level is between the upper mark (B) and the lower mark (C) on the dipstick, then insert the dipstick back into the dipstick guide tube.
  14. Install the engine undercover.
  15. Install the intake air duct (see step 69 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  16. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  17. If the Maintenance Minder required ATF replacement, reset the Maintenance Minder (see «MAINTENANCE MINDER™»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/schedule/#maintenance) ), and this procedure is complete. If the Maintenance Minder did not require you to replace the ATF, go to step 18.
  18. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
  19. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
  20. Select GAUGES in the BODY ELECTRICAL with the HDS.
  21. Select ADJUSTMENT in the GAUGES with the HDS.
  22. Select MAINTENANCE MINDER in the ADJUSTMENT with the HDS.
  23. Select RESET in the MAINTENANCE MINDER with the HDS.
  24. Select MAINTENANCE SUB ITEM 3 RESET, and reset the ATF life with the HDS.

Transmission Removal

Special Tools Required

  1. Hood Prop Bar 07AAZ-SZNA100
  2. Engine Support Hanger, A and Reds AAR-T1256*
  3. Subframe Adapter VSB02C000016*
  4. Engine Hanger Balance Bar VSB02C000019*
  5. Engine Hanger Adapter Set VSB02C000031 *

*: Available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857.

Note. Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces. Special tool Reds engine support hanger AAR-T1256 must be used with the side engine mount installed.

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  1. Remove the engine cover (see step 7 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-removal) ).
  2. Remove the front fender trim from the passenger side (see «FRONT FENDER TRIM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__front-fender-trim-replacement) ).
  3. Ply the hood support strut clip, and release the hood support strut (see step 1 on «REAR DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exterior-body-panels/#doors__rear-door-panel-removalinstallation) ), then move the hood to a vertical position and install the hood prop bar as shown in illustration.
  4. Drain the power steering fluid (see «FLUID CHECK/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/manual-power-steering/#hydraulic-power-steering-components__fluid-checkreplacement) ).
  5. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  6. Remove the front bulkhead cover (see «FRONT BULKHEAD COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__front-bulkhead-cover-replacement) ).
  7. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  8. Remove the intake air duct.
  9. Remove the battery heat shield.
  10. Remove the stud bolt (A), then swing the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (B) out of the way.
  11. Remove the battery base.
  12. Remove the steering joint cover (A).
  13. Make reference marks (B) across the steering joint (C) and the steering gearbox pinion shaft (D). If the center guide is still installed, take care not to displace it. If the center guide is no longer installed, or is displaced during when the joint is disconnected, refer to the reference marks to reinstall the joint. Loosen the upper steering joint bolt (E), and remove the lower steering joint bolt (F), then disconnect the steering joint from the steering gearbox pinion shaft. Do not disconnect the steering joint from the column shaft (G).
  14. Center the steering wheel, and install a commercially available steering wheel holder tool (see step 11 on «STEERING GEARBOX REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/manual-power-steering/#hydraulic-power-steering-components__steering-gearbox-removal) ).
  15. Cover the auto-tensioner, the alternator, the A/C compressor with several shop towels to protect them from spilled power steering fluid. Remove the power steering pump outlet line (A) from the power steering pump, and remove the hose clamp bolt (B). Cover the opening of the pump and the pump outlet line with a piece of tape to prevent foreign material from entering either the pump or the outlet line. Take care not to spill fluid on the vehicle. Wipe off any spilled fluid at once.
  16. Remove the ATF dipstick, then disconnect the positive starter cable (A) and the S terminal connector (B) from the starter (C). Remove the starter and the gasket (D).
  17. Remove the transfer breather box bracket (A), and remove the breather hose (B) from the clamp (C).
  18. Remove the bolt (A) securing the harness cover (B), and swing the harness cover out of the way.
  19. Remove the harness clamps (A), and remove the clamp bracket (B).
  20. Remove the transmission breather hose (C) from the breather pipe (D).
  21. Remove the spring clip (A) and the control pin (B), then separate the shift cable end (C) from the selector control lever (D).
  22. Check the bushing (E) in the shift cable end for proper fit and wear. If the bushing is loose or worn, replace the shift cable (see «SHIFT CABLE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  23. Remove the nuts (A) securing the shift cable bracket (B).
  24. Remove the bolt (A) securing the harness cover (B), and swing the harness cover out of the way.
  25. Disconnect these connectors: Shift solenoid valve A connector (A) Shift solenoid valve B connector (B) Shift solenoid valve C connector (C) Line pressure solenoid valve A connector (D)
  26. Remove the harness clamps (E).
  27. Disconnect these connectors: A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector (A) A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector (B) A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector (C) A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D connector (D) Transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) connector (E) Transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) connector (F) Line pressure switch connector (G) Transmission range switch connector (H)
  28. Remove the bolt (I) securing the harness cover (J), and remove the harness clamp (K).
  29. Remove the harness cover bracket (A).
  30. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) connector (A) and the transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) connector (B).
  31. Remove the ATF cooler hoses (A) from the ATF cooler line (B) and the ATF filter (C). Turn the ends of the cooler hoses up to prevent ATF from flowing out, then plug the cooler hoses, the line, and the ATF filter.
  32. Remove the connector bracket (A) from the front cylinder head; use the bracket bolt hole to attach the engine hanger balance bar front arm.
  33. Remove the engine mount control solenoid valve bracket (A) from the rear cylinder head; use the bracket bolt hole (B) to attach the engine hanger balance bar rear arm.
  34. Remove the service caps (A) for the front damper flange nuts from the cowl cover (B). Position the engine hanger adapters (VSB02C000031) with the "FRONT" mark facing forward over the damper mounting nuts.
  35. Install the engine support hanger (AAR-T1256) and the engine hanger balance bar (VSB02C000019) onto the vehicle as shown in illustration. Attach the front arm (A) to the front cylinder head with several spacers (B) and a 10 mm bolt (C), and attach the rear arm (D) to the rear cylinder head with a spacer (E) and an 8 mm bolt (F). Tighten the wing nut (G) by hand, and lift and support the engine/transmission. NOTE: Be careful when working around the windshield. Be careful not to damage the hood opener cable when installing the engine support hanger at the front bulkhead. AAR-T1256 two sets required for stacking additional cross section bar.
  36. Remove the upper transmission housing mounting bolts.
  37. Remove the vacuum hose (A) from the vacuum pipe (B), and remove the vacuum pipe from its clamp.
  38. Remove the front engine mount stop (C) and the clamp bracket (D), and remove the front engine mount bolt (E).
  39. Raise the vehicle on a lift, and make sure it is securely supported.
  40. Remove the front wheels.
  41. Remove the engine undercover (A) and the front splash shield (B).
  42. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
  43. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B).
  44. Disconnect the ATF temperature sensor connector (A), then remove the harness clamps (B).
  45. Disconnect the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector (A), then remove the harness clamp(B).
  46. Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector (A) and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector (B), then remove the harness clamps (C).
  47. With active damper system: Disconnect the front suspension stroke sensor connector (A) on both lower arms, and remove the harness clamps (B) from the front subframe.
  48. With electronically controlled power steering system (ECPS): Disconnect the ECPS valve motor connector (A).
  49. Remove the cotter pins (A) and the nuts (B), and separate the tie-rod end ball joints (C) from the knuckles (see step 3 on «HUB BEARING UNIT REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/suspension-rear/#rear-suspension) ).
  50. Insert a hex wrench (D) in the top of the stabilizer link ball joint pins (E), and remove the nuts (F), then separate the stabilizer links (G).
  51. Remove the lock pins (H) and the castle nuts (I), and separate the lower arms (J) from the knuckles (K) (see step 6 on «HUB BEARING UNIT REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/suspension-rear/#rear-suspension) ).
  52. Remove the front subframe stiffener.
  53. Remove exhaust pipe A (see «EXHAUST PIPE AND MUFFLER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system__exhaust-pipe-and-muffler-replacement) ).
  54. Make reference marks (A) across the No. 1 propeller shaft (B) and the transfer companion flange (C), and separate the propeller shaft from the transfer companion flange. Support the propeller shaft to the body with a nylon strap.
  55. Disconnect the breather hose (A) from the breather pipe (B) on the transfer assembly, and remove the breather hose from the clamp (C).
  56. Remove the transfer assembly from the transmission.
  57. Remove the torque converter cover (A), and remove the eight bolts (B) while rotating the crankshaft pulley.
  58. Disconnect the PSP switch connector.
  59. Loosen the hose clamp bolt (A), then disconnect the power steering fluid hose (B) from the fluid line at the left front of the front subframe.
  60. Remove the rear engine mount bolts.
  61. Remove the bolt securing the power steering fluid line clamp bracket (A) on the rear engine mount bracket, and turn the bracket away from the rear engine mount bracket.
  62. Remove the lower transmission mount bolts (A) and the transmission ground terminal bracket (B).
  63. Attach the subframe adapter (VSB02C000016) to the front subframe by looping the strap (A) over the front of the front subframe, then secure the strap with the stop (B), then tighten the wing nut (C).
  64. Raise the transmission jack and line up the slots in the arms with the bolt holes on the corner of the jack base, then tighten the bolts.
  65. Remove the bolts securing the front stiffeners (A) and the rear stiffeners (B), then remove the bolts securing the front subframe (C), and lower the front subframe carefully.
  66. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  67. Remove the driveshafts from the differential and the intermediate shaft. Coat all precision machined surfaces with clean engine oil, then put plastic bags over driveshaft ends. NOTE: Plug the driveshaft hole (A) to prevent dirt and solvent from entering the transmission.
  68. Support the driveshafts to the body with nylon straps.
  69. Remove the intermediate shaft (A). Coat all precision machined surfaces with clean engine oil, then put plastic bags over intermediate shaft ends. NOTE: Plug the intermediate shaft hole (B) to prevent dirt and solvent from entering the transmission.
  70. Remove the harness clamp (A), and remove the harness clamp bracket (B).
  71. Remove the front engine mount bracket (C).
  72. Remove the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor cover (A), and disconnect the CKP sensor connector (B).
  73. Remove the lower transmission housing mounting bolts.
  74. Lower the transmission by loosening the wing nut of the engine support hanger, and tilt the engine just enough for the transmission to clear its end from the side frame.
  75. Slide the transmission away from the engine to remove it from the vehicle.
  76. Remove the torque converter (A), the O-ring (B), and the dowel pins (C).
  77. Inspect the drive plate, and replace it if it is damaged (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

Scheme 256

Scheme 256: Drive Plate Removal and Installation
  1. Remove the transmission assembly (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__transmission-removal) ).
  2. Remove the drive plate (A) and the washer (B) from the engine.
  3. Install the drive plate and the washer on the engine crankshaft, and tighten the eight bolts in a crisscross pattern in at least two steps.
  4. Install the transmission assembly (see «TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__transmission-installation) ).

Transmission Installation

Special Tools Required

  1. Hood Prop Bar 07AAZ-SZNA100
  2. Engine Support Hanger, A and Reds AAR-T1256*
  3. Subframe Adapter VSB02C000016*
  4. Engine Hanger Balance Bar VSB02C000019*
  5. Engine Hanger Adapter Set VSB02C000031 *

*: Available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857.

Note. Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.

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  1. If you did not clean the ATF cooler after removing the transmission, and you are installing an overhauled or remanufactured transmission, clean the ATF cooler (see «ATF COOLER CLEANING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-cooler-cleaning) ), failure to do this can cause a repeat transmission failure.
  2. Install a new O-ring (A) on the torque converter (B), then install the torque converter on the mainshaft (C). NOTE: Make sure the torque converter is fully engaged on the mainshaft, the stator shaft, and the ATF pump drive gear. Failure to do so will result in severe transmission or engine damage.
  3. Install the 14x20 mm dowel pin (D) and the 10x20 mm dowel pin (E) in the torque converter housing.
  4. Place the transmission on the transmission jack, and raise it to the engine level.
  5. Attach the transmission to the engine, and install the lower transmission housing mounting bolts. Front side Rear side
  6. Connect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector (A), and install the CKP sensor cover (B).
  7. Install the front engine mount bracket (A) with new bolts.
  8. Install the harness clamp bracket (B) with the bolt, and install the harness clamp (C).
  9. Install a new set ring (A) on the intermediate shaft (B).
  10. Clean the areas where the intermediate shaft contacts the transmission (differential) with solvent, and dry with compressed air. Apply ATF to the intermediate shaft splines (C), then install the intermediate shaft, be sure not to allow dust or other foreign particles to enter the transmission. NOTE: Insert the intermediate shaft carefully to prevent damaging the oil seal (D).
  11. Install a new set ring (A) on the left driveshaft (B).
  12. Clean the areas where the left driveshaft contacts the transmission (differential) with solvent, and dry with compressed air. Then install the left driveshaft, be sure not to allow dust or other foreign particles to enter the transmission. Turn the steering knuckle fully outward, and slide the driveshaft into the differential until you feel its set ring fully engages the side gear. NOTE: Insert the left driveshaft carefully to prevent damaging the oil seal (C).
  13. Apply the recommended grease to the right driveshaft inboard joint splines (see «FRONT DRIVESHAFT INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/axle-shafts/#drivelineaxle__front-driveshaft-installation) ).
  14. Slide the right driveshaft over the intermediate shaft splines until you feel the driveshaft fully engages the intermediate shaft set ring.
  15. Set the subframe adapter (VSB02C000016) to the front subframe by looping the strap (A) over the front of the front subframe, then secure the strap with the stop (B), then tighten the wing nut (C).
  16. Raise the front subframe up to the body, then loosely install new front subframe mounting bolts (A), the front stiffener mounting bolts (B), and new rear stiffener mounting bolts (C).
  17. Align the front subframe with the subframe alignment pin (see «SUBFRAME REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exterior-body-panels/#frame) ).
  18. Remove the jack and the subframe adapter.
  19. Install the lower transmission mount bolts (A) and the transmission ground terminal bracket (B).
  20. Install the rear engine mount bolts.
  21. Turn the power steering fluid line clamp bracket (A) to seat on the rear engine mount bracket (B), and secure the bracket on the rear engine mount bracket.
  22. Attach the torque converter to the drive plate (A) with eight bolts (B). Rotate the crankshaft pulley as necessary to tighten the bolt to half of the specified torque, then to the final torque, in a crisscross pattern. After tightening the last bolt, check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
  23. Install the torque converter cover (C).
  24. Connect the power steering fluid hose (A) to the line (B), and secure the hose with its hose clamp (C).
  25. Connect the PSP switch connector.
  26. Install the dowel pin (A) in the transmission, and install the transfer assembly (B) on the transmission.
  27. Connect the breather hose (A) over the breather pipe (B) with facing the dot mark (C) to the rear side of the vehicle, and install the breather hose to the clamp (D) at the dot mark (E).
  28. Install the No. 1 propeller shaft (A) to the transfer companion flange (B) by aligning the reference marks (C). Make sure you use new mounting bolts.
  29. Install exhaust pipe A (see «EXHAUST PIPE AND MUFFLER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system__exhaust-pipe-and-muffler-replacement) ).
  30. Install the front subframe stiffener with new bolts.
  31. Install the lower arm ball joints (A) to the knuckles (B) with new castle nuts (C), and install the lock pins (D).
  32. Install new nuts (E) to the stabilizer link ball joint pins (F). Insert a hex wrench (G) in the top of the ball joint pins, and tighten the nuts to the specified torque.
  33. Install the tie-rod end ball joints (H) to the knuckles with new nuts (I), and install new cotter pins (J).
  34. With electronically controlled power steering system (ECPS): Connect the ECPS valve motor connector (A).
  35. With active damper system: Connect the front suspension stroke sensor connector (A) on both lower arms, and install the harness clamps (B) on the front subframe.
  36. Connect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector (A) and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector (B), then install the harness clamps (C).
  37. Connect the transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) connector (A), then install the harness clamp (B).
  38. Connect the ATF temperature sensor connector (A), then install the harness clamps (B).
  39. Install the upper transmission housing mounting bolts.
  40. Connect the front engine mount (A) and the front engine mount bracket (B) with a new bolt (C).
  41. Install the front engine mount stop (D) and the clamp bracket (E) with new nuts.
  42. Connect the vacuum hose (F) to the vacuum pipe (G).
  43. Remove the engine support hanger, the engine support hanger adapters, and the engine balance bar, and install the service caps to the cowl cover.
  44. Install the connector bracket (A) to the front cylinder head.
  45. Install the engine mount control solenoid valve bracket (A) to the rear cylinder head.
  46. Connect the ATF cooler hoses (A) to the ATF cooler line (B) and the ATF filter (C), then secure the hoses with the clips (D) (see «ATF COOLER HOSE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  47. Connect the transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) connector (A) and the transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) connector (B).
  48. Install the harness cover bracket (A), and install the harness clamp (B).
  49. Install the bolt (A) securing the harness cover (B), and install the harness clamp (C).
  50. Connect these connectors: A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector (D) A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector (E) A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector (F) A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve D connector (G) Transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) connector (H) Transmission fluid pressure switch E (6th clutch) connector (I) Line pressure switch connector (J) Transmission range switch connector (K)
  51. Install the harness clamps (A).
  52. Connect these connectors: Shift solenoid valve A connector (B) Shift solenoid valve B connector (C) Shift solenoid valve C connector (D) Line pressure solenoid valve A connector (E)
  53. Install the bolt (A) securing the harness cover (B).
  54. Install the shift cable bracket (A).
  55. Apply molybdenum grease to the hole in the bushing (A) in the shift cable end (B).
  56. Attach the shift cable end to the control lever (C), then insert the control pin (D) into the control lever hole through the shift cable end, and secure the control pin with the spring clip (E).
  57. Connect the transmission breather hose (A) to the breather pipe (B).
  58. Install the clamp bracket (C), and install the harness clamps (D).
  59. Install the bolt (A) securing the harness cover (B).
  60. Install the transfer breather box bracket (A), and install the breather hose (B) to the clamp (C) at the dot mark (D).
  61. Install the starter (A) with a new gasket (B). Connect the S terminal connector (C) and the positive starter cable (D), and install the vacuum pipe (E) to the clamp (F).
  62. Install the ATF dipstick.
  63. Install the power steering pump outlet line (A) with a new O-ring (B) to the power steering pump, and install the hose clamp bolt (C).
  64. Remove the steering wheel holder tool, then connect the steering joint (A) and the steering gearbox pinion shaft (B) while aligning the reference marks (C). Tighten the steering joint bolts.
  65. Install the steering joint cover (D).
  66. Install the battery base (A).
  67. Install the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (A).
  68. Install the battery heat shield (A).
  69. Install the intake air duct (A). NOTE: When tightening the screw of the hose clamp (B), align the edge of the hose clamp (C) with the painted mark (D).
  70. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  71. Install the front bulkhead cover (see «FRONT BULKHEAD COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__front-bulkhead-cover-replacement) ).
  72. Refill the transmission with ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ).
  73. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  74. Install the engine cover (see step 57 on «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-installation) ).
  75. Remove the hood prop bar, then reattach the hood support strut on the pivot bolt (see step 2 on «HOOD SUPPORT STRUT REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exterior-body-panels/#hood) ).
  76. Install the front wheels.
  77. Install the front splash shield (A) and the engine undercover (B).
  78. Refill the power steering fluid reservoir with fluid to the upper level line, and bleed air from the system (see «FLUID CHECK/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/manual-power-steering/#hydraulic-power-steering-components__fluid-checkreplacement) ).
  79. Set the parking brake. Start the engine, and shift the transmission through all positions three times. Check the shift lever operation, the A/T gear position indicator operation, and the shift cable adjustment.
  80. Start the engine in P or N, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  81. Check the ATF level (see «ATF LEVEL CHECK»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-level-check) ).
  82. Check the front wheel alignment (see «WHEEL ALIGNMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/wheel-alignment/#front-and-rear-suspension-inspection__wheel-alignment) ).
  83. Road test the vehicle (see «ROAD TEST»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

ATF Cooler Cleaning

Special Tools Required

  1. ATF Cooler Cleaner GHTTTCF6H*
  2. Magnetic Nonbypass Spin-On Filter GTHGNBP2* *: Available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857

Before installing an overhauled or remanufactured automatic transmission, you must thoroughly clean the ATF cooler to prevent system contamination. Failure to do so could cause a repeat automatic transmission failure.

The cleaning procedure involves heated ATF delivered under high pressure (100 psi). Check the security of all hoses and connections. Always wear safety glasses or a face shield, along with gloves and protective clothing. If you get ATF in your eyes or on your skin, rinse with water immediately.

WARNINGImproper use of the ATF cooler cleaner can result in burns and other serious injuries. Always wear eye protection and protective clothing, and follow this procedure.

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Scheme 308
  1. Check the fluid in the cooler cleaner tank. (The fluid level should be 4.5 inches from the top of the filler neck.) Adjust the level if needed; do not overfill. Use only recommended ATF; do not use any additives.
  2. Plug the cooler cleaner into a 110 V grounded electrical outlet. NOTE: Make sure the outlet has no other appliances (light fixtures, drop lights, extension cords) plugged into it. Also, never plug the cooler cleaner into an extension cord or drop light; you could damage the unit.
  3. Flip the HEAT toggle switch to ON; the green indicator above the toggle switch comes on. Wait 1 hour for the cooler cleaner to reach its operating temperature. (The cooler cleaner is ready to use when the temperature gauge reads 140°F to 150°F.) NOTE: If the red indicator above the HEAT toggle switch comes on, the fluid level in the tank is too low for the tank heater to work (see step 1 of this procedure).
  4. Select the appropriate pair of fittings, and attach them to the radiator, to the hoses, or to the banjo bolts for flow through the ATF cooler cleaner.
  5. Connect the red hose to the cooler outlet line (the line that normally goes to the external filter on the transmission).
  6. Connect the blue hose to the cooler inlet line.
  7. Connect a shop air hose (regulated to 100 to 125 psi) to the air purge valve. NOTE: The quick-connect fitting has a one-way check valve to keep ATF from entering your shop's air system. Do not remove or replace the fitting. Attach the coupler provided with the cooler cleaner to your shop air line if your coupler is not compatible.
  8. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON; the green indicator above the toggle switch comes on. Let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is running, open and close the air purge valve periodically to cause agitation and improve the cleaning process. Always open the valve slowly. At the end of the 5-minute cleaning period, leave the air purge valve open. NOTE: While the pump is running with the air purge valve open, it is normal to see vapor coming from the filler/breather tube vents.
  9. With the air purge valve open, flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF; the green indicator goes off. Leave the air purge valve open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines and hoses of residual ATF, then close the valve.
  10. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler. Now connect the red hose to the cooler inlet line.
  11. Now connect the blue hose to the cooler outlet line.
  12. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is running, open and close the air purge valve periodically. Always open the valve slowly. At the end of the 5-minute cleaning period, leave the air purge valve open. NOTE: While the pump is running with the air purge valve open, it is normal to see vapor coming from the filler/breather tube vents.
  13. With the air purge valve open, flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF. Leave the air purge valve open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines and hoses of residual ATF, then close the valve.
  14. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler lines.
  15. Connect the red and blue hoses to each other.
  16. Disconnect the shop air from the air purge valve. Disconnect and stow the coupler if used.
  17. Disconnect and stow the fittings from the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines.
  18. Unplug the cooler cleaner from the 110 V outlet.

Tool Maintenance

Follow these instructions to keep the ATF cooler cleaner working properly

Scheme 309

Scheme 309
  1. Replace the two magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters after every 20 hours of use, based on the hour meter, or when you notice a restriction in the ATF flow.
  2. Check the level and condition of the fluid in the tank before each use.
  3. Replace the ATF in the tank when it looks dark or dirty.

Scheme 310

Scheme 310: Exploded View

Note. When installing the hose clamps, make sure they do not interfere with the surrounding parts.

  1. Install the ATF cooler hoses over the ATF cooler lines with the clips at the appropriate points in reference to the following list. Align the paint mark (K) facing the rear of the vehicle, and align the paint mark (L) facing up. Point Distance from Hose End to Clip (M) Hose End Contact Point A 2-4 mm (0.08-0.16 in) Bulge B C 6-8 mm (0.24-0.31 in) Bulge D E F G H 6-8 mm (0.24-0.31 in) ATF filter housing from 2 mm (0.08 in) I 6-8 mm (0.24-0.31 in) ATF filter housing J 6-8 mm (0.24-0.31 in) Bulge
  2. Align the paint mark on the ATF cooler hose end (N) with the paint mark (O) on the ATF filter holder.
  3. Secure the ATF cooler hose with the clamps (P) at the paint lines (Q).
  4. Refill the transmission with ATF to the proper level (see «ATF LEVEL CHECK»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-level-check) ).

Scheme 311

Scheme 311: ATF Cooler Replacement
  1. Remove the front bumper (see «FRONT BUMPER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exterior-body-panels/#bumpers__front-bumper-removalinstallation) ).
  2. Remove the ATF cooler mounting bolts (A), and disconnect the ATF cooler hoses (B), then replace the ATF cooler (C).
  3. Connect the ATF cooler hoses (see «ATF COOLER HOSE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  4. Install the ATF cooler.
  5. Install the front bumper (see «FRONT BUMPER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exterior-body-panels/#bumpers__front-bumper-removalinstallation) ).
  6. Check the ATF level (see «ATF LEVEL CHECK»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-level-check) ).

ATF Filter Replacement

Note. The ATF filter is not a scheduled maintenance item. Replace the filter only if it is leaking, or contaminated, or when the transmission is being overhauled or replaced with a remanufactured unit.

Scheme 312

Scheme 312: ATF Filter Replacement

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Scheme 314
  1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, and make sure it is securely supported.
  2. Remove the engine under cover (A) and the front splash shield (B).
  3. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the ATF.
  4. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B).
  5. Remove the harness clamp (A) from the ATF filter holder (B).
  6. Disconnect the ATF cooler hoses (C) from the ATF filter (D).
  7. Remove the ATF filter holder, and remove the ATF filter.
  8. Install a new ATF filter, and secure it with its holder and bolt.
  9. Connect the ATF cooler hose (see «ATF COOLER HOSE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  10. Install the harness clamp to the ATF filter holder.
  11. Install the front splash shield and the engine under cover.
  12. Refill the transmission with ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ).

Scheme 315

Scheme 315: Shift Lever Removal

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Scheme 320
  1. Move the shift lever to R.
  2. Remove the shift lever knob (see «SHIFT LEVER KNOB REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-knob-replacement) ).
  3. Remove the A/T shift panel (see step 2 on A/T SHIFT PANEL REPLACEMENT ).
  4. Release the lock tab (A) using a screwdriver, and remove the A/T gear position indicator (B).
  5. Remove the center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
  6. Remove the nut securing the shift cable end.
  7. Unlock the retainer lock (A).
  8. Rotate the socket holder retainer (A) counterclockwise (B) until it stops, and push the retainer lock (C) into the socket holder retainer to lock the retainer.
  9. Slide the socket holder (A) away from the bracket as shown to remove the shift cable (B) from the shift cable bracket (C). Do not remove the shift cable by pulling the shift cable guide (D).
  10. Disconnect the shift lever 6P connector (A), and remove the shift lever 6P connector from the shift lever bracket base (B).
  11. Remove the shift lever mounting bolts (C), then remove the shift lever assembly (D).

Scheme 321

Scheme 321: Shift Lever Installation

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Scheme 331
  1. Install the shift lever assembly (A).
  2. Connect the shift lever 6P connector (B).
  3. Install the shift lever 6P connector on the shift lever bracket base (C).
  4. Push the shift cable (A) until it stops, then release it. Pull the shift cable back one step from the P position so that the shift position is in R. Do not hold the shift cable guide (B) to adjust the shift cable.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode, and check that the R position indicator comes on.
  6. Place the shift lever in P, and turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  7. Place the shift lever in R; the lock pin (A) must be in the position of the arrowed mark (B), then insert a 6.0 mm (0.236 in) pin (C) into the positioning hole (D) on the shift lever positioning guide, and into the positioning hole on the shift lever bracket. Use only a 6.0 mm (0.236 in) pin with no burrs.
  8. Align the shift cable slot (A) between the socket holder (B) and the socket holder retainer (C) with the opening (D) in the shift cable bracket (E), then slide the holder into the bracket while installing the shift cable end (F) over the mounting stud (G) by aligning its square hole with the square fitting (H) at the bottom of the stud. Do not install the shift cable by holding the shift cable guide (I). NOTE: When the socket holder is installed in the shift cable bracket, the retainer lock is unhinged and releases the holder retainer lock, then the holder retainer returns under spring force to secure the shift cable.
  9. Push the retainer lock (A) fully to lock the socket holder retainer (B), and make sure that the retainer lock fits into the hinged-joint (C). If the retainer lock does not fit with the edge of the hinged-joint, rotate the holder retainer counterclockwise while pushing the retainer lock until it locks.
  10. Make sure the shift cable end (A) is properly installed on the mounting stud (B). If the cable end is out of position with the mounting stud, remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket, then reinstall the cable end over the mounting stud before reinstalling the shift cable to the shift cable bracket. Do not install the shift cable end on the mounting stud with the shift cable installed on the shift cable bracket. If the shift cable end does not ride at the bottom of the mounting stud, rotate the stud to align the square fitting with the hole. Properly installed: Cable end rides at the bottom of the mounting stud. Improperly installed: Cable end out of position with the mounting stud. Cable end out of alignment with the mounting stud.
  11. Install and tighten the nut (A) on the shift cable end.
  12. Remove the 6.0 mm (0.236 in) pin (B) that was installed to hold the shift lever.
  13. Install the center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
  14. Route the harnesses on the A/T shift panel (A), and install the A/T gear position indicator (B) in the A/T shift panel.
  15. Install the A/T shift panel (see step 8 on A/T SHIFT PANEL REPLACEMENT ).
  16. Install the shift lever knob (see «SHIFT LEVER KNOB REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-knob-replacement) ).
  17. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Move the shift lever to each position, and check that the A/T gear position indicator follows the transmission range switch.
  18. Shift the shift lever to P, and check that the shift lock works properly. Push the shift lock release, and check that the shift lever releases, and also check that the shift lever locks when it is shifted back to P. If equipped, check that the key does not come out in any other position other than P.

Shift Lever Knob Replacement

Note. Make sure not to get any silicone grease on the terminal part of the connectors and switches, especially if you have silicone grease on your hands or gloves.

Scheme 332

Scheme 332: Shift Lever Knob Replacement

Scheme 333

Scheme 333
  1. Grasp the shift lever boot ring, and slip it out of the shift lever knob.
  2. Wrap the end of a flat-tipped screwdriver with tape, pry the shift lever knob cover locks (A), and remove the shift lever knob cover (B).
  3. Remove the screws (C), and remove the shift lever knob (D).
  4. Apply silicone grease to the top (E) of the shift lever rod.
  5. Install a new shift lever knob on the shift lever, and secure it with new screws.
  6. Install the shift lever knob cover on the shift lever knob.
  7. Slide the shift lever boot ring over the shift lever knob until it snaps on.

Shift Lever Disassembly/Reassembly

Note. Make sure not to get any silicone grease on the terminal part of the connectors and switches, especially if you have silicone grease on your hands or gloves.

Scheme 334

Scheme 334: Shift Lever Disassembly/Reassembly

Scheme 335

Scheme 335: A/T Shift Panel Replacement

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Scheme 340
  1. Remove the shift lever knob (see «SHIFT LEVER KNOB REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-knob-replacement) ).
  2. Apply protective tape (A) to the center console panel (B) along the side edge of the A/T shift panel (C). Pry up on the edge of the A/T shift panel with a flat-tipped screwdriver wrapped with protective tape to release the hooks (D). Then remove the A/T shift panel.
  3. Release the lock tab (A) using a screwdriver, and remove the A/T gear position indicator (B).
  4. Release the lock tabs (A) on the shift lever boot using a screwdriver.
  5. Replace the A/T shift panel (A).
  6. Install the shift lever boot (B) on the A/T shift panel.
  7. Route the harnesses on the A/T shift panel (A), and install the A/T gear position indicator (B) in the A/T shift panel.
  8. Install the A/T shift panel (A) on the center console panel (B).
  9. Install the shift lever knob (see «SHIFT LEVER KNOB REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-knob-replacement) ).

Scheme 341

Scheme 341: Shift Lever Boot Replacement

Scheme 342

Scheme 342
  1. Remove the shift lever knob (see «SHIFT LEVER KNOB REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-knob-replacement) ).
  2. Remove the A/T shift panel (see step 2 on A/T SHIFT PANEL REPLACEMENT ).
  3. Release the lock tabs (A) on the shift lever boot using a screw driver.
  4. Replace the shift lever boot (A).
  5. Install the shift lever boot on the A/T shift panel (B).
  6. Install the A/T shift panel (see step 8 on A/T SHIFT PANEL REPLACEMENT ).
  7. Install the shift lever knob (see «SHIFT LEVER KNOB REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-knob-replacement) ).

Scheme 343

Scheme 343: Shift Cable Replacement

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Scheme 352
  1. Move the shift lever to R.
  2. Remove the shift lever knob (see «SHIFT LEVER KNOB REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-knob-replacement) ).
  3. Remove the A/T shift panel (see step 2 on A/T SHIFT PANEL REPLACEMENT ).
  4. Release the lock tab (A) using a screwdriver, and remove the A/T gear position indicator (B).
  5. Remove the center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
  6. Remove the nut (A) securing the shift cable end (B).
  7. Unlock the retainer lock (A).
  8. Rotate the socket holder retainer (A) counterclockwise (B) until it stops, and push the retainer lock (C) into the socket holder retainer to lock the retainer.
  9. Slide the socket holder (A) away from the bracket as shown in illustration to remove the shift cable (B) from the shift cable bracket (C). Do not remove the shift cable by pulling the shift cable guide (D).
  10. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  11. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  12. Remove the intake air duct (see step 8 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  13. Remove the battery heat shield (see step 9 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  14. Remove the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 10 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  15. Remove the battery base (see step 11 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  16. Remove the spring clip (A) and the control pin (B), then separate the shift cable end (C) from the control lever (D).
  17. Remove the nuts (A) securing the shift cable bracket (B).
  18. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block both rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported.
  19. Remove the nuts securing the shift cable bracket (A).
  20. Remove the shift cable grommet (B), and pull out the shift cable (C).
  21. Insert a new shift cable through the grommet hole (D), and install the grommet in its hole. Do not bend the shift cable excessively.
  22. Install the shift cable bracket.
  23. Install the shift cable bracket (A).
  24. Attach the shift cable end (A) to the control lever (B), then insert the control pin (C) into the control lever hole through the shift cable end, and secure the control pin with the spring clip (D).
  25. Install the battery base (see step 66 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  26. Install the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 67 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  27. Install the battery heat shield (see step 68 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  28. Install the intake air duct (see step 69 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  29. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  30. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  31. Adjust the shift cable on the shift lever (see «SHIFT CABLE ADJUSTMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

Scheme 353

Scheme 353: Shift Cable Adjustment

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Scheme 367
  1. Move the shift lever to R.
  2. Remove the shift lever knob (see «SHIFT LEVER KNOB REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-knob-replacement) ).
  3. Remove the A/T shift panel (see step 2 on A/T SHIFT PANEL REPLACEMENT ).
  4. Release the lock tab (A) using a screwdriver, and remove the A/T gear position indicator (B).
  5. Remove the center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
  6. Remove the nut (A) securing the shift cable end (B).
  7. Unlock the retainer lock (A).
  8. Rotate the socket holder retainer (A) counterclockwise (B) until it stops, and push the retainer lock (C) into the socket holder retainer to lock the retainer.
  9. Slide the socket holder (A) away from the bracket as shown in illustration to remove the shift cable (B) from the shift cable bracket (C). Do not remove the shift cable by pulling the shift cable guide (D).
  10. Push the shift cable (A) until it stops, then release it. Pull the shift cable back one step so that the shift position is in R. Do not hold the shift cable guide (B) to adjust the shift cable.
  11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode, and check that the R position indicator comes on.
  12. Place the shift lever in P, and turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  13. Place the shift lever in R; the lock pin (A) must be in the position of the arrowed mark (B), then insert a 6.0 mm (0.236 in) pin (C) into the positioning hole (D) on the shift lever positioning guide, and into the positioning hole on the shift lever bracket. Use only a 6.0 mm (0.236 in) pin with no burrs.
  14. Align the shift cable slot (A) between the socket holder (B) and the socket holder retainer (C) with the opening (D) in the shift cable bracket (E), then slide the holder into the bracket while installing the shift cable end (F) over the mounting stud (G) by aligning its square hole with the square fitting (H) at the bottom of the stud. Do not install the shift cable by holding the shift cable guide (I). NOTE: When the socket holder is installed in the shift cable bracket, the retainer lock is unhinged and releases the holder retainer lock, then the holder retainer returns under spring force to secure the shift cable.
  15. Push the retainer lock (A) fully to lock the socket holder retainer (B), and make sure that the retainer lock fits into the hinged-joint (C). If the retainer lock does not fit with the edge of the hinged-joint, rotate the holder retainer counterclockwise while pushing the retainer lock until it locks.
  16. Make sure the shift cable end (A) is properly installed on the mounting stud (B). If the cable end is out of position with the mounting stud, remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket, then reinstall the cable end over the mounting stud before reinstalling the shift cable to the shift cable bracket. Do not install the shift cable end on the mounting stud with the shift cable installed on the shift cable bracket. If the shift cable end does not ride at the bottom of the mounting stud, rotate the stud to align the square fitting with the hole. Properly installed: Cable end rides at the bottom of the mounting stud. Improperly installed: Cable end out of position with the mounting stud. Cable end out of alignment with the mounting stud.
  17. Install and tighten the nut (A) on the shift cable end.
  18. Remove the 6.0 mm (0.236 in) pin (B) that was installed to hold the shift lever.
  19. Install the center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
  20. Route the harnesses on the A/T shift panel (A), and install the A/T gear position indicator (B) in the A/T shift panel.
  21. Install the A/T shift panel (see step 8 on A/T SHIFT PANEL REPLACEMENT ).
  22. Install the shift lever knob (see «SHIFT LEVER KNOB REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-knob-replacement) ).
  23. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Move the shift lever to each position, and check that the A/T gear position indicator follows the transmission range switch.
  24. Shift the shift lever to P, and check that the shift lock works properly. Push the shift lock release, and check that the shift lever releases, and also check that the shift lever locks when it is shifted back to P. If equipped, check that the key does not come out in any other position other than P.

Scheme 368

Scheme 368: Component Location Index

Scheme 369

Scheme 369: Circuit Diagram

Scheme 370

Scheme 370: Transmission Range Switch Test

Scheme 371

Scheme 371
  1. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  2. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  3. Remove the intake air duct (see step 8 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  4. Remove the battery heat shield (see step 9 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  5. Remove the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 10 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  6. Remove the battery base (see step 11 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  7. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
  8. Check for continuity between the terminals at the transmission range switch connector. There should be continuity between the terminals in the following table for each transmission range switch position. Transmission Range Switch Connector
  9. The transmission range switch test is finished if the test results are OK. Reinstall all removed components. If there is no continuity between any terminals, check the transmission range switch installation. If the switch installation is OK, replace the switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  10. Install the battery base (see step 66 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  11. Install the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 67 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  12. Install the battery heat shield (see step 68 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  13. Install the intake air duct (see step 69 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  14. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  15. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).

Scheme 372

Scheme 372: Transmission Range Switch Replacement

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Scheme 380
  1. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  2. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  3. Remove the intake air duct (see step 8 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  4. Remove the battery heat shield (see step 9 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  5. Remove the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 10 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  6. Remove the battery base (see step 11 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
  7. Remove the spring clip (A) and the control pin (B), then separate the shift cable end (C) from the control lever (D).
  8. Check the bushing (E) in the shift cable end for a proper fit and wear. If the bushing is loose or worn, replace the shift cable (see «SHIFT CABLE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  9. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
  10. Remove the nuts (A) securing the shift cable bracket (B).
  11. Remove the transmission range switch.
  12. Turn the control lever fully counterclockwise to the P position. Turn the control lever back two click-stopped positions so that the selector control shaft is in the N position.
  13. Set a new transmission range switch (A) to the N position. Align the cutouts (B) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (C) on the transmission range switch, then put a 2.0 mm (0.079 in) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold the transmission range switch in the N position. NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.079 in) feeler gauge blade or equivalent to hold the transmission range switch in the N position.
  14. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.079 in) blade (C).
  15. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position. Do not move the transmission range switch when tightening the bolts. Then remove the feeler gauge.
  16. Check the connectors for corrosion, dirt, or oil, and clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector securely.
  17. Install the shift cable bracket (A).
  18. Apply molybdenum grease to the hole in the bushing (A) in the shift cable end (B).
  19. Attach the shift cable end to the control lever (C), then insert the control pin (D) into the control lever hole through the shift cable end, and secure the control pin with the spring clip (E).
  20. Install the battery base (see step 66 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  21. Install the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box (see step 67 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  22. Install the battery heat shield (see step 68 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  23. Install the intake air duct (see step 69 on TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
  24. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system) ).
  25. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
  26. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Move the shift lever through all positions, and verify the transmission range switch matches with the A/T gear position indicator.
  27. Check that the engine starts in P and N, and does not start in any other shift lever position.
  28. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R.
  29. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow all four wheels to rotate freely. Then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation.

Paddle Shifter + (Upshift Switch) Circuit Troubleshooting

SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations (see COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX ) and the precautions and procedures (see PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ) before doing repair or service.

Scheme 381

Scheme 381: Paddle Shifter + (Upshift Switch) Circuit Troubleshooting

Scheme 382

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Scheme 387
  1. Remove the steering wheel (see «STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system__steering-wheel-removal) ).
  2. Check for continuity between cable reel connector C terminals No. 12 and No. 15 when pressing the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) and when the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) is released. Is there continuity when pressing the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) and no continuity when the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) is released? YES -Go to step 5 . NO -Go to step 3.
  3. Disconnect the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) connector.
  4. Check for continuity between paddle shifter + (upshift switch) connector terminals No. 3 and No. 4 when pressing the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) and when the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) is released. Is there continuity when pressing the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) and no continuity when the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) is released? YES -Replace the cable reel subharness. NO -Replace the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) (see «PADDLE SHIFTER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__paddle-shifter-replacement) ).
  5. Remove the cable reel (see «CABLE REEL REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/airbag/#srs-supplemental-restraint-system) ).
  6. Check for continuity between cable reel connector A terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 7. NO -Repair an open in the wire between cable reel connector A terminal No. 2 and body ground (G405), or repair poor body ground (G405).
  7. Check for continuity between cable reel connector A terminal No. 15 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in wire between cable reel connector A terminal No. 15 and PCM connector terminal A36. NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  9. Measure the voltage between cable reel connector A terminals No. 2 and No. 15. Is there battery voltage? YES -Replace the cable reel (see «CABLE REEL REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/airbag/#srs-supplemental-restraint-system) ). NO -Go to step 10.
  10. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  11. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  12. Disconnect PCM connector A (49P).
  13. Connect cable reel connector A terminal No. 15 to body ground with a jumper wire.
  14. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A36 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminal A36. If the connection is OK, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ) and recheck. NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A36 and cable reel connector A.

Paddle Shifter - (Downshift Switch) Circuit Troubleshooting

SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations (see COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX ) and the precautions and procedures (see PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ) before doing repair or service.

Scheme 388

Scheme 388: Paddle Shifter - (Downshift Switch) Circuit Troubleshooting

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Scheme 394

Scheme 394
  1. Remove the steering wheel (see «STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system__steering-wheel-removal) ).
  2. Check for continuity between cable reel connector C terminals No. 8 and No. 17 when pressing the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) and when the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) is released. Is there continuity when pressing the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) and no continuity when the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) is released? YES -Go to step 5 . NO -Go to step 3.
  3. Disconnect the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) connector.
  4. Check for continuity between paddle shifter - (downshift switch) connector terminals No. 3 and No. 4 when pressing the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) and when the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) is released. Is there continuity when pressing the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) and no continuity when the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) is released? YES -Replace the cable reel subharness. NO -Replace the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) (see «PADDLE SHIFTER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__paddle-shifter-replacement) ).
  5. Remove the cable reel (see «CABLE REEL REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/airbag/#srs-supplemental-restraint-system) ).
  6. Check for continuity between cable reel connector A terminal No. 5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 7. NO -Repair an open in the wire between cable reel connector A terminal No. 5 and body ground (G402), or repair poor body ground (G402).
  7. Check for continuity between cable reel connector A terminal No. 17 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between cable reel connector A terminal No. 17 and PCM connector terminal A37. NO -Go to step 8.
  8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  9. Measure the voltage between cable reel connector A terminals No. 5 and No. 17. Is there battery voltage? YES -Replace the cable reel (see «CABLE REEL REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/airbag/#srs-supplemental-restraint-system) ). NO -Go to step 10.
  10. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  11. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  12. Disconnect PCM connector A (49P).
  13. Connect cable reel connector A terminal No. 17 to body ground with a jumper wire.
  14. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A37 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminal A37. If the connection is OK, substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ) and recheck. NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A37 and cable reel connector A.

Paddle Shifter Illumination Circuit Troubleshooting

SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations (see COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX ) and the precautions and procedures (see PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ) before doing repair or service.

Scheme 395

Scheme 395: Paddle Shifter Illumination Circuit Troubleshooting

Scheme 396

Scheme 396

Scheme 397

Scheme 397
  1. Remove the driver's airbag (see «DRIVER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/airbag/#srs-supplemental-restraint-system__drivers-airbag-replacement) ).
  2. Disconnect the paddle shifter connector.
  3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode, and turn the combination light switch to the SMALL (PARKING) position.
  4. Measure the voltage between paddle shifter connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES -Go to step 8 . NO -Go to step 5.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode, and turn the combination light switch to the OFF position.
  6. Check the No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES -Repair an open in the wire between paddle shifter connector terminal No. 1 and the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box. NO -Go to step 7.
  7. Check for continuity between paddle shifter connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between paddle shifter connector terminal No. 1 and the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box. NO -Install a new No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box, then go to step 4 .
  8. Remove the gauge control module (see «GAUGE CONTROL MODULE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#gauges__gauge-control-module-replacement) ).
  9. Check for continuity between paddle shifter connector terminal No. 2 and gauge control module connector A (32P) terminal No. 21. Is there continuity? YES -Check the illumination control circuit in the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see «SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#gauges__self-diagnostic-function) ). If the test results are OK, replace the paddle shifter (see «PADDLE SHIFTER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__paddle-shifter-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between paddle shifter connector terminal No. 2 and the gauge control module.

Paddle Shifter Replacement

SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations (see COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX ) and the precautions and procedures (see PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ) before doing repair or service.

Scheme 398

Scheme 398: Paddle Shifter Replacement

Scheme 399

Scheme 399

Scheme 400

Scheme 400
  1. Remove the steering wheel (see «STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system__steering-wheel-removal) ).
  2. Remove the four screws (A) securing the steering wheel rear cover (B).
  3. Pull the snap-fit portion (C) up carefully, then remove the steering wheel rear cover.
  4. Remove the paddle shifter connector (A) from the clamp bracket (B), and disconnect the paddle shifter connector.
  5. Remove the paddle shifter + (upshift switch) (A) or the paddle shifter - (downshift switch) (B), then replace it.
  6. Route the harness and connect the paddle shifter connector securely, and install the connector to the clamp bracket.
  7. Install the steering wheel rear cover.
  8. Install the steering wheel (see «STEERING WHEEL INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system__steering-wheel-installation) ).

A/T Gear Position Indicator Replacement

Note. The A/T gear position indicator, the park pin switch, and the shift lock solenoid harness are not available separately. Replace the A/T gear position indicator, the park pin switch, and the shift lock solenoid harness as a set.

Scheme 401

Scheme 401: A/T Gear Position Indicator Replacement

Scheme 402

Scheme 402
  1. Remove the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  2. Remove the shift lock solenoid, and disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (see «SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lock-solenoid-replacement) ).
  3. Remove the harness wire ties (A).
  4. Remove the park pin switch (B), and replace the A/T gear position indicator/park pin switch/shift lock solenoid harness assembly (C).
  5. Connect the shift lock solenoid connector, and install the shift lock solenoid in the shift lever (see «SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lock-solenoid-replacement) ).
  6. Route the harnesses as shown in illustration. Take the slack out of the harnesses, and secure the harnesses with the harness wire ties (A).
  7. Install the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

Scheme 403

Scheme 403: Component Location Index

Scheme 404

Scheme 404: Circuit Diagram

Shift Lock System Circuit Troubleshooting

Note. Check for A/T DTCs. If any DTCs are present, troubleshoot those first.

Scheme 405

Scheme 405: Shift Lock System Circuit Troubleshooting

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Scheme 412
  1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
  3. Select Shift Lock Solenoid Test in the Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift lock solenoid operates with the HDS. Does the shift lock solenoid work properly? YES -Go to step 16 . NO -Go to step 4.
  4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  5. Remove the center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
  6. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (see «SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lock-solenoid-replacement) ).
  7. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  8. Measure the voltage between shift lock solenoid connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES -Go to step 9. NO -Check for a blown No. 12 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. If the fuse is OK, repair an open in the wire between shift lock solenoid connector terminal No. 1 and the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
  9. With the shift lever in P, press the brake pedal. Do not press the accelerator pedal.
  10. Measure the voltage between shift lock solenoid connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 while pressing the brake pedal. Is there battery voltage? YES -Go to step 11. NO -Go to step 12 .
  11. Release the brake pedal, and measure the voltage between shift lock solenoid connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. The shift lever must be in P. Is there battery voltage? YES -Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A2 and the shift lock solenoid connector. NO -Check the shift lock mechanism. If the mechanism is OK, replace the shift lock solenoid (see «SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lock-solenoid-replacement) ).
  12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  13. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  14. Disconnect PCM connector A (49P).
  15. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A2 and shift lock solenoid connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES -Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), and recheck. If the symptom goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A2 and the shift lock solenoid connector.
  16. Monitor the Brake Switch in the Data List with the HDS, and press the brake pedal. Is the Brake Switch ON? YES -Go to step 21 . NO -If the brake lights come on, go to step 17. If the brake lights do not work, repair faulty brake light circuit.
  17. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  18. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  19. Disconnect PCM connector A (49P).
  20. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal A8 and body ground while pressing the brake pedal and when the brake pedal is released. Is there battery voltage while pressing the brake pedal and about 0 V when the pedal is released? YES -Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), and recheck. If the symptom goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A8 and the brake pedal position switch.
  21. Monitor the A/T P Switch in the Data List with the HDS with the shift lever in P. Is the A/T P Switch ON? YES -Go to step 31 . NO -Go to step 22.
  22. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  23. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
  24. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
  25. Connect a jumper wire between transmission range switch connector terminal No. 7 and body ground.
  26. Check the ATPP switch signal with the HDS. Is the ATPP switch on? YES -Replace the transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). NO -Go to step 27.
  27. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
  28. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
  29. Disconnect PCM connector A (49P).
  30. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A16 and transmission range switch connector terminal No. 7. Is there continuity? YES -Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), and recheck. If the symptom goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A16 and the transmission range switch connector.
  31. Check APP Sensor A in the Data List with the HDS. Do not press the accelerator pedal. Is the APP Sensor (%) opening 5 % or more, or is APP Sensor A (V) 1.16 V or higher? YES -Check the APP Sensor (see «APP SENSOR SIGNAL INSPECTION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/engine-control-systems/#electronic-throttle-control-system__app-sensor-signal-inspection) ). NO -Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-update) ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__substituting-the-pcm) ), and recheck. If the symptom goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__pcm-replacement) ).

Scheme 413

Scheme 413: Shift Lock Solenoid Test
  1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/communication-devices/#communication-systems-f-can-k-line__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
  3. Select the Shift Lock Solenoid Test in the Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift lock solenoid operates with the HDS.
  4. Check that the shift lever can be moved out of P when the Shift Lock Solenoid is ON. Move the shift lever back to P, and check that it locks when the Shift Lock Solenoid is OFF.
  5. Check that the shift lock releases when the shift lock release is pushed, and check that it locks when the shift lock release is released.
  6. If the shift lock solenoid does not work properly, go to the «SHIFT LOCK SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lock-system-circuit-troubleshooting) (see ).

Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement

Note. Make sure not to get any silicone grease on the terminal part of the connectors and switches, especially if you have silicone grease on your hands or gloves.

Scheme 414

Scheme 414: Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement

Scheme 415

Scheme 415
  1. Remove the shift lever knob (see «SHIFT LEVER KNOB REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-knob-replacement) ).
  2. Remove the center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
  3. Remove the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  4. Release the lock tabs retaining the shift lock solenoid using thin-bladed screwdrivers.
  5. Insert a 6.0 mm (0.236 in) pin (A), and push the shift lock solenoid (B) out.
  6. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (C), and replace the shift lock solenoid.
  7. Apply silicone grease to the tip (D) of the shift lock stop and the solenoid plunger hole (E).
  8. Connect the shift lock solenoid connector.
  9. Install the shift lock solenoid by aligning the joint of the shift lock solenoid plunger with the tip of the shift lock stop, then push the shift lock solenoid into the shift lever securely.
  10. Install the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  11. Install the center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
  12. Install the shift lever knob (see «SHIFT LEVER KNOB REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-knob-replacement) ).

Shift Lock Stop/Shift Lock Stop Cushion Replacement

Note. Make sure not to get any silicone grease on the terminal part of the connectors and switches, especially if you have silicone grease on your hands or gloves.

Scheme 416

Scheme 416: Shift Lock Stop/Shift Lock Stop Cushion Replacement
  1. Remove the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  2. Remove the shift lock solenoid, and disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (see «SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lock-solenoid-replacement) ).
  3. Remove the shift lock stop (A) and the stop cushion (B) as a set.
  4. Apply silicone grease to the pin on the shift lever bracket, and install a new shift lock stop over the pin.
  5. Connect the shift lock solenoid connector, and install the shift lock solenoid in the shift lever (see «SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lock-solenoid-replacement) ).
  6. Install the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

Scheme 417

Scheme 417: Shift Lock Release and Release Spring Replacement

Scheme 418

Scheme 418

Scheme 419

Scheme 419
  1. Remove the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  2. Release the lock (A) of the shift lock release (B), then remove the shift lock release.
  3. Remove the release spring (A) from the shift lock release (B).
  4. Replace the shift lock release or the release spring.
  5. Install the shift lock release spring in the shift lock release.
  6. Install the shift lock release on the shift lever.
  7. Make sure that the release spring end (A) is installed in the shift lock release (B), and the hooked end (C) of the release spring is on the shift lever bracket as shown in illustration.
  8. Install the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

Park Pin Switch Replacement

Note. The park pin switch, the A/T gear position indicator, and the shift lock solenoid harness are not available separately. Replace the park pin switch, the A/T gear position indicator, and the shift lock solenoid harness as a set.

Scheme 420

Scheme 420: Park Pin Switch Replacement

Scheme 421

Scheme 421
  1. Remove the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  2. Remove the shift lock solenoid, and disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (see «SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lock-solenoid-replacement) ).
  3. Remove the harness wire ties (A).
  4. Remove the park pin switch (B), and replace the park pin switch/A/T gear position indicator/shift lock solenoid harness assembly (C).
  5. Connect the shift lock solenoid connector, and install the shift lock solenoid in the shift lever (see «SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lock-solenoid-replacement) ).
  6. Route the harnesses as shown in illustration. Take the slack out of the harnesses, and secure the harnesses with the harness wire ties (A).
  7. Install the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

Scheme 422

Scheme 422: Exploded View

Scheme 423

Scheme 423

Scheme 424

Scheme 424

Special Tools Required

Mainshaft Holder Set 07PAB-0010001

Note. Refer to the EXPLODED VIEW as needed during the following procedure.

Scheme 425

Scheme 425

Scheme 426

Scheme 426

Scheme 427

Scheme 427

Scheme 428

Scheme 428

Scheme 429

Scheme 429

Scheme 430

Scheme 430

Scheme 431

Scheme 431

Scheme 432

Scheme 432

Scheme 433

Scheme 433

Scheme 434

Scheme 434

Scheme 435

Scheme 435

Scheme 436

Scheme 436

Scheme 437

Scheme 437

Scheme 438

Scheme 438

Scheme 439

Scheme 439

Scheme 440

Scheme 440

Scheme 441

Scheme 441

Scheme 442

Scheme 442

Scheme 443

Scheme 443

Scheme 444

Scheme 444

Scheme 445

Scheme 445

Scheme 446

Scheme 446

Scheme 447

Scheme 447

Scheme 448

Scheme 448

Scheme 449

Scheme 449

Scheme 450

Scheme 450

Scheme 451

Scheme 451

Scheme 452

Scheme 452

Scheme 453

Scheme 453
  1. Remove the ATF dipstick (A), then remove the dipstick tube assembly (B) with the O-rings.
  2. Remove the transmission range switch (A).
  3. Pry the lock tab of the lock washer (A) on the control lever (B), then remove the bolt, the lock washer, and the control lever.
  4. Remove the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (A) and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (B) with the O-rings.
  5. Remove the ATF temperature sensor (A) with the O-ring.
  6. Remove the ATF outlet line banjo bolt (A) with the sealing washers, and remove the ATF outlet line (B).
  7. Remove the ATF filter holder (C) and the ATF inlet line banjo bolt (D) with the sealing washers, and remove the ATF inlet line/ATF hose/ATF filter (E).
  8. Remove transmission hanger A.
  9. Remove the ATF filter bracket (B), and remove the third shaft end cover (C), the mainshaft end cover (D), and the end covers (E) (two) with the O-rings.
  10. Remove transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) with the sealing washer.
  11. Remove transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) with the sealing washer.
  12. Remove transmission hanger B.
  13. Remove transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) (A) with the sealing washer.
  14. Remove shift solenoid valve C (B) with the O-rings.
  15. Remove the secondary valve body (A). Remove the ATF pipes (B) with the O-rings, and the gasket (C). NOTE: Do not disassemble the secondary valve body. If any problem occurs, replace the assembly.
  16. Install the mainshaft holder onto the mainshaft.
  17. Using a chisel, cut the lock tab (A) of the locknut (B) securing the mainshaft and the third shaft locknuts. NOTE: Keep all of the chiseled particles out of the transmission. The illustration shows the mainshaft locknut.
  18. Remove the locknuts (A) from the mainshaft (B) and the third shaft (C). NOTE: The third shaft locknut has left-hand threads.
  19. Pry the lock washers (D), and remove them. NOTE: Keep all of the particles out of the transmission.
  20. Remove the transmission housing mounting bolts (10x1.25 mm bolt (A), 8 x 1.25 mm bolt (B)) and transmission hanger C.
  21. While expanding the snap ring of the countershaft bearing with snap ring pliers, lift the transmission housing.
  22. Release the snap ring pliers, and remove the transmission housing (A), the two dowel pins (B), and the gasket (C).
  23. Remove ATF joint pipes A and B with the O-rings.
  24. Remove the ATF strainer (A) with the O-ring.
  25. Remove the 10 x 70 mm ATF joint pipe (B) and the ATF lubrication pipe (C).
  26. Remove the mainshaft holder from the mainshaft.
  27. Pry the lock tab of the lock washer (A) on the shift fork (B), then remove the bolt and the lock washer.
  28. Remove the reverse gear (A), the reverse selector hub (B), the shift fork (C), and the baffle plate (D) together.
  29. Remove the mainshaft subassembly (A), the countershaft subassembly (B), the secondary shaft subassembly (C), and the idler gear shaft (D) together, and remove the needle bearing (E) from the torque converter housing.
  30. Remove the third shaft (A).
  31. Remove the parking holder (B).
  32. Remove the detent arm (A), the detent arm shaft (B), and the detent arm spring (C).
  33. Remove the selector control shaft (A).
  34. Remove the differential assembly (B).
  35. Remove the transfer output shaft (C) with the thrust shim.
  36. Remove the oil catch plate (D), the 2nd air check valve (E), and the 5th air check valve (F).
  37. Remove the cooler retainer cap (A).
  38. Remove the 3rd air check valve (A), the 6th air check valve (B), the stator shaft support (C), the stator shaft (D), the stator shaft stop (E), and the dowel pins (F) (two).
  39. Remove the manual valve body (A) (seven bolts), the dowel pins (B) (two), the manual separator plate (C), and the check balls (D) (two). Do not let the check balls fall out, and do not use a magnet to remove the check balls, it may magnetize them. NOTE: Do not disassemble the manual valve body. If any problem occurs, replace the assembly.
  40. Remove the regulator valve body (E) (eight bolts), the dowel pins (F) (two), and the regulator separator plate (G). NOTE: Do not disassemble the regulator valve body. If any problem occurs, replace the assembly.
  41. Remove the 4th/reverse air check valve (A) and the main valve body (B) (eight bolts). NOTE: Do not disassemble the main valve body. If any problem occurs, replace the assembly.
  42. Remove the ATF pump driven gear shaft (C), then remove the ATF pump driven gear (D) and the ATF pump drive gear (E).
  43. Remove the dowel pins (F) (two) and the main separator plate (G).
  44. Remove the ATF magnet (H), clean it, then reinstall it in the torque converter housing.
  45. Clean the inlet opening (A) of the ATF strainer (B) thoroughly with compressed air, then check that it is good condition and that the inlet opening is not clogged.
  46. Check the ATF strainer for clogs, debris, or damage. If the strainer is clogged or damaged, replace it.

Scheme 454

Scheme 454: ATF Pump Inspection

Scheme 455

Scheme 455

Scheme 456

Scheme 456
  1. Lubricate the ATF pump drive gear (A), the ATF pump driven gear (B), and the ATF pump driven gear shaft (C) with ATF, then install them in the main valve body (D). Install the ATF pump driven gear with its grooved and chamfered side facing up.
  2. Measure the side clearance of the ATF pump drive gear (A) and the ATF pump driven gear (B). ATF Pump Gears Side (Radial) Clearance Standard (New): ATF Pump Drive Gear 0.210-0.265 mm (0.009-0.010 in) ATF Pump Driven Gear 0.070-0.125 mm (0.003-0.004 in)
  3. Remove the ATF pump driven gear shaft. Measure the thrust clearance between the ATF pump drive gear (A) and the main valve body (B), and between the ATF pump driven gear (C) and the main valve body using a straight edge (D) and a feeler gauge (E). ATF Pump Drive/Driven Gear Thrust (Axial) Clearance Standard (New): 0.04-0.07 mm (0.002-0.002 in) Service Limit: 0.07 mm (0.002 in)
  4. If the measurements are out of the standards, replace the main valve body assembly.

Scheme 457

Scheme 457: Reverse Idler Gear Removal/Installation
  1. Remove the reverse idler gear assembly (A) from the transmission housing.
  2. Install the reverse idler gear assembly in the transmission Housing. Tighten the bolts in the numbered sequence shown in illustration.

Mainshaft Bearing Removal

Special Tools Required

  1. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
  2. Seal Driver Attachment, 80 mm I.D. 07VAD-P8A010A

Scheme 458

Scheme 458
  1. Remove the reverse idler gear assembly (see «REVERSE IDLER GEAR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  2. To remove the mainshaft bearing, expand the snap ring using snap ring pliers, then push the bearing out using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 80 mm I.D. seal driver attachment. Do not remove the snap ring unless it is necessary to clean the groove in the transmission housing.

Mainshaft Bearing Installation

Special Tools Required

  1. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
  2. Seal Driver Attachment, 80 mm I.D. 07VAD-P8A010A

Scheme 459

Scheme 459

Scheme 460

Scheme 460
  1. Install the mainshaft bearing (A) in the direction shown in illustration.
  2. Expand the snap ring using snap ring pliers, and insert the bearing part-way into the transmission housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 80 mm I.D. seal driver attachment.
  3. Release the snap ring pliers, then push the bearing down into the transmission housing until the snap ring snaps in place around it.
  4. After installing the bearing, check that the snap ring (A) is seated in the bearing and the housing groove, and that the snap ring end gap (B) is 0-7 mm (0-0.28 in).
  5. Install the reverse idler gear assembly (see «REVERSE IDLER GEAR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

Third Shaft Bearing Removal

Special Tools Required

  1. Oil Seal Driver Attachment, 71.5 mm 07GAD-SE00100
  2. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000

Scheme 461

Scheme 461
  1. Remove the reverse idler gear assembly (see «REVERSE IDLER GEAR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  2. To remove the third shaft bearing, expand the snap ring using snap ring pliers, then push the bearing out using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 71.5 mm oil seal driver attachment. Do not remove the snap ring unless it is necessary to clean the groove in the transmission housing.

Third Shaft Bearing Installation

Special Tools Required

  1. Oil Seal Driver Attachment, 71.5 mm 07GAD-SE00100
  2. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000

Scheme 462

Scheme 462

Scheme 463

Scheme 463
  1. Install the third shaft bearing (A) in the direction shown in illustration.
  2. Expand the snap ring using snap ring pliers, and insert the bearing part-way into the transmission housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 71.5 mm oil seal driver attachment.
  3. Release the snap ring pliers, then push the bearing down into the transmission housing until the snap ring snaps in place around it.
  4. After installing the bearing, check that the snap ring (A) is seated in the bearing and the housing groove, and that the snap ring end gap (B) is 0-7 mm (0-0.28 in).
  5. Install the reverse idler gear assembly (see «REVERSE IDLER GEAR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

Idler Gear Shaft Bearing Replacement

Special Tools Required

  1. Bearing Driver Attachment, 37 x 40 mm 07746-0010200
  2. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
  3. Slide Hammer 07936-371020A
  4. Remover Handle 07936-3710100
  5. Bearing Remover Shaft Set, 22 mm 070MC-MFR0100

Scheme 464

Scheme 464

Scheme 465

Scheme 465

Scheme 466

Scheme 466
  1. Heating the transmission housing to about 212°F (100°C) using a heat gun (A). Do not heat the transmission housing more than 212°F (100°C).
  2. Remove the idler gear shaft bearing from the transmission housing using the 22 mm bearing remover shaft, the remover handle, and the slide hammer.
  3. Install a new bearing until it bottoms in the transmission housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 37 x 40 mm bearing driver attachment.

Selector Control Shaft Bearing Replacement

Special Tools Required

  1. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
  2. Bearing Remover Shaft Set, 15 mm 07936-KC10500
  3. Slide Hammer 07936-371020A
  4. Bearing Driver Attachment, 28 x 30 mm 07946-1870100

Scheme 467

Scheme 467

Scheme 468

Scheme 468
  1. Remove the selector control shaft bearing from the transmission housing using the 15 mm bearing remover shaft and the slide hammer.
  2. Install a new bearing until it bottoms in the transmission housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 28 x 30 mm bearing driver attachment.

Selector Control Shaft Oil Seal Replacement

Special Tools Required

  1. Attachment, 22 x 24 mm 07746-001A800
  2. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000

Scheme 469

Scheme 469

Scheme 470

Scheme 470
  1. Remove the oil seal from the transmission housing.
  2. Install a new oil seal (A) in the transmission housing to a depth (B) of 0.3-1.0 mm (0.012-0.039 in) below the transmission housing surface (C) using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 22 x 24 mm attachment.

Mainshaft Bearing and Oil Seal Replacement

Special Tools Required

  1. Adjustable Bearing Puller, 25-40 mm 07736-A01000B
  2. Bearing Driver Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
  3. Bearing Driver Attachment, 72 x 75 mm 07746-0010600
  4. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000

Scheme 471

Scheme 471

Scheme 472

Scheme 472

Scheme 473

Scheme 473

Scheme 474

Scheme 474
  1. Remove the oil seal from the torque converter housing.
  2. Remove the mainshaft bearing using the 25-40 mm adjustable bearing puller and a commercially available 3/8"-16 slide hammer (A).
  3. Install a new bearing until it bottoms in the torque converter housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 62 x 68 mm bearing driver attachment.
  4. Install a new oil seal flush with the torque converter housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the, 72 x 75 mm bearing driver attachment. NOTE: Do not drive the oil seal into the torque converter housing until it bottoms out, it will block the fluid return passage and cause transmission damage.

Countershaft Bearing Replacement

Special Tools Required

  1. Bearing Driver Attachment, 72 x 75 mm 07746-0010600
  2. Adjustable Bearing Puller, 25-40 mm 07736-A01000B
  3. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000

Scheme 475

Scheme 475

Scheme 476

Scheme 476

Scheme 477

Scheme 477
  1. Remove the countershaft bearing from the torque converter housing using the 25-40 mm adjustable bearing puller and a commercially available 3/8"-16 slide hammer (A).
  2. Check the ATF guide plate (A), and replace it if it is damaged.
  3. Install a new bearing (B) in the direction shown in illustration.
  4. Drive the bearing (A) in the torque converter housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 72x75 mm bearing driver attachment; install the bearing outer notch-cut (B) to a depth (C) of 0-0.14 mm (0-0.0055 in) below the torque converter housing surface (D).

Secondary Shaft Bearing Replacement

Special Tools Required

  1. Adjustable Bearing Puller, 45-75 mm 07YAC-0010100
  2. Bearing Driver Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
  3. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000

Scheme 478

Scheme 478

Scheme 479

Scheme 479

Scheme 480

Scheme 480

Scheme 481

Scheme 481

Scheme 482

Scheme 482
  1. Remove the secondary shaft bearing from the torque converter housing using the 45-75 mm adjustable bearing puller and a commercially available 3/8"-16 slide hammer (A).
  2. Cover the tip of the 1st clutch ATF feed pipe with a shop rag. Apply air pressure to the ATF feed pipe hole (A) of the 1st clutch hydraulic circuit, and remove the ATF guide collar (B), the 28.6 x 40.8 x 13 mm secondary shaft bearing (C), and the ATF feed pipe assembly (D) from the transmission housing.
  3. Install a new O-ring (A) on the ATF feed pipe assembly (B), then install the ATF feed pipe assembly in the torque converter housing by aligning the finger (C) with the groove (D).
  4. Install the 28.6 x 40.8 x 13 mm bearing (A) into the torque converter housing.
  5. Install new O-rings (B) on the ATF guide collar (C), then install the guide collar in the torque converter housing by aligning the finger (D) with the groove (E).
  6. Install the bearing until it bottoms in the direction shown in illustration in the torque converter housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 62 x 68 mm bearing driver attachment.

Third Shaft Bearing Replacement

Special Tools Required

  1. Adjustable Bearing Puller, 25-40 mm 07736-A01000B
  2. Bearing Driver Attachment, 52 x 55 mm 07746-0010400
  3. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000

Scheme 483

Scheme 483

Scheme 484

Scheme 484

Scheme 485

Scheme 485
  1. Remove the third shaft bearing from the torque converter housing using the 25-40 mm adjustable bearing puller and a commercially available 3/8"-16 slide hammer (A).
  2. Check the ATF guide plate (A), and replace it if it is damaged.
  3. Install a new bearing (B) in the torque converter housing.
  4. Drive the bearing (A) into the torque converter housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 52 x 55 mm bearing driver attachment; install the bearing to a depth (B)of 0-0.07 mm (0-0.0012 in) below the torque converter housing surface (C).

Special Tools Required

  1. Adjustable Bearing Puller, 25-40 mm 07736-A01000B
  2. Attachment, 52 x 55 mm 07746-0010400
  3. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000

Scheme 486

Scheme 486

Scheme 487

Scheme 487

Scheme 488

Scheme 488
  1. Remove the idler gear shaft bearing from the torque converter housing using the 25-40 mm adjustable bearing puller and a commercially available 3/8"-16 slide hammer (A).
  2. Check the ATF guide plate (A), and replace it if it is damaged.
  3. Install a new bearing (B) in the torque converter housing.
  4. Drive the bearing until it bottoms into the torque converter housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 52 x 55 mm bearing driver attachment.

Special Tools Required

  1. Bearing Driver Attachment, 32 x 35 mm 07746-0010100
  2. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
  3. Slide Hammer 07936-371020A
  4. Bearing Remover Shaft Set, 15 mm 07936-KC10500

Scheme 489

Scheme 489

Scheme 490

Scheme 490
  1. Remove the selector control shaft bearing from the torque converter housing using the 15 mm bearing remover shaft and the slide hammer.
  2. Install a new bearing until it bottoms out in the torque converter housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 32 x 35 mm bearing driver attachment.

Scheme 491

Scheme 491: Exploded View

Note. Refer to the EXPLODED VIEW as needed during the following procedure.

Scheme 492

Scheme 492

Scheme 493

Scheme 493

Scheme 494

Scheme 494

Scheme 495

Scheme 495
  1. Remove the 42 x 63.5 x 3.5 mm thrust needle bearing (A), 3rd gear (B), the 42 x 49 x 23 mm needle bearing (C), and the 47 x 64 x 3 mm thrust needle bearing (D) from the mainshaft (E).
  2. Remove the set ring (F) and the 32 x 40 x 23 mm needle bearing (G).
  3. Place 4th gear (A) on press bases (B), and place a spacer (C) between the mainshaft (D) and the press to prevent damaging the mainshaft.
  4. Remove the 3rd gear collar (A), the 3rd/6th clutch (B), 6th gear (C), and 4th gear (D) using a press.
  5. Remove the O-rings (A) from the mainshaft (B).
  6. Remove the sealing rings (C) from the mainshaft.
  7. Inspect the bearings for galling and rough movement.
  8. Check the shaft bearing surfaces for scoring and excessive wear, and check the shaft splines for excessive wear and damage.
  9. Inspect 6th gear for wear and damage, and inspect the 6th gear bearing for wear and rough rotation.
  10. Replace the 6th gear if the gear or the bearing is worn or damaged.

Mainshaft Reassembly

Special Tools Required

  1. Driver Handle, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
  2. Bearing Driver Attachment, 35 mm I.D. 07746-0030400

Scheme 496

Scheme 496

Scheme 497

Scheme 497

Scheme 498

Scheme 498

Scheme 499

Scheme 499

Scheme 500

Scheme 500

Scheme 501

Scheme 501
  1. Install new sealing rings (A).
  2. Install the 32 x 40 x 23 mm needle bearing (B) and the set ring (C).
  3. Slide 4th gear (D) over the mainshaft (E) in the direction shown in illustration.
  4. Place 4th gear (A) on press bases (B), and place a spacer (C) between the mainshaft (D) and the press to prevent damaging the mainshaft.
  5. Install 4th gear using a press.
  6. Install 6th gear (A) over the mainshaft (B), then press it into place using the 40 mm driver handle and the press.
  7. Wrap the shaft splines with electrical tape to prevent O-ring damage, install new O-rings (A) on the mainshaft (B), then remove the tape. NOTE: Lubricate the O-rings with ATF before installing them.
  8. Install the 3rd/6th clutch (C).
  9. Install the 3rd gear collar (A) over the mainshaft (B), then press it into place using the 40 mm I.D. driver handle, the 35 mm I.D. bearing driver attachment, and the press.
  10. Install the 47 x 64 x 3 mm thrust needle bearing (A), the 42 x 49 x 23 mm needle bearing (B), 3rd gear (C), and the 42 x 63.5 x 3.5 mm needle bearing (D).

Scheme 502

Scheme 502: Exploded View

Note. Refer to the EXPLODED VIEW as needed during the following procedure.

Scheme 503

Scheme 503

Scheme 504

Scheme 504

Scheme 505

Scheme 505
  1. Secure the final drive gear part of the countershaft in a bench vise with wood blocks, loosen the lock bolt (A), and remove it. The lock bolt has left-hand threads. NOTE: After this procedure, remove wood chips that may be stuck to the gear.
  2. Place the park gear (A) on press bases (B), and place a spacer (C) between the countershaft (D) and the press to prevent damaging the countershaft.
  3. Remove the ball bearing (A), 2nd gear (B), the 42.5 mm thrust shim (C), the 5th gear collar (D), the 42.5 x 52.5 x 2.5 mm thrust washer (E), 5th gear (F), 1st gear (G), the 53 x 57 x 20 mm needle bearing (H), and the park gear (I) using a press.
  4. Inspect the bearing for galling and rough movement.
  5. Check the shaft bearing surfaces for scoring and excessive wear, and check the shaft splines for excessive wear and damage.
  6. Check the countershaft 2nd gear axial clearance and the 5th gear axial clearance (see «COUNTERSHAFT 2ND GEAR AND 5TH GEAR AXIAL CLEARANCE INSPECTION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__countershaft-2nd-gear-and-5th-gear) ), and check the 1st gear one-way clutch (see «1ST GEAR ONE-WAY CLUTCH INSPECTION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

Countershaft 2nd Gear and 5th Gear Axial Clearance Inspection

Special Tools Required

Driver Handle, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100

Scheme 506

Scheme 506: Countershaft 2nd Gear and 5th Gear Axial Clearance Inspection

Scheme 507

Scheme 507

Scheme 508

Scheme 508

Scheme 509

Scheme 509

Scheme 510

Scheme 510

Scheme 511

Scheme 511
  1. Slide the park gear (A) over the countershaft (B).
  2. Place the park gear (A) on press bases (B), and place a spacer (C) between the countershaft (D) and the press to prevent damaging the countershaft.
  3. Install the park gear using a press.
  4. install the 53 x 57 x 20 mm needle bearing (A), 1st gear (B), 5th gear (C), the 42.5 x 52.5 x 2.5 mm thrust washer (D), the 5th gear collar (E), the 42.5 mm thrust shim (F), and 2nd gear (G) on the countershaft (H). Install 2nd gear and 5th gear in the direction shown in illustration.
  5. Install the ball bearing (A) over the countershaft (B), then press it into place using the 40 mm I.D. driver handle and the press.
  6. Secure the final drive gear part of the countershaft in a bench vise with wood blocks, install the old lock bolt (A), and tighten it to 125 N.m (12.7 kgf.m, 92 lbf.ft). The lock bolt has left-hand threads. NOTE: After this procedure, remove wood chips that may be stuck to the gear.
  7. Measure the clearance between the 5th gear collar (A) and the 42.5 mm thrust shim (B) with a feeler gauge (C) in at least three places. Use the average as the actual clearance. Standard: 0.04-0.10 mm (0.002-0.003 in)
  8. If the clearance is out of the standard, remove the 42.5 mm thrust shim and measure its thickness.
  9. Select and install a new 42.5 mm thrust shim, then recheck the clearance. THRUST SHIM, 42.5 MM No. Thickness A 1.82 mm (0.0717 in) B 1.86 mm (0.0732 in) C 1.90 mm (0.0748 in) D 1.94 mm (0.0764 in) E 1.98 mm (0.0780 in) F 2.02 mm (0.0795 in) G 2.06 mm (0.0811 in) H 2.10 mm (0.0827 in) I 2.14 mm (0.0843 in) J 2.18 mm (0.0858 in) K 2.22 mm (0.0874 in) L 2.26 mm (0.0890 in)

Scheme 512

Scheme 512: 1st Gear One-Way Clutch Inspection

Scheme 513

Scheme 513
  1. Install the 53 x 57 x 20 mm needle bearing (A) and 1st gear (B) on the park gear (C).
  2. Hold the park gear (A), and turn 1st gear (B) in the direction shown in illustration to be sure it turns freely. Also make sure 1st gear locks in the opposite direction.
  3. If any problem occurs on the 1st gear one-way clutch, replace 1st gear. The 1st gear one-way clutch is not available separately from 1st gear.

Countershaft Reassembly

Special Tools Required

Driver Handle, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100

Scheme 514

Scheme 514: Countershaft Reassembly

Scheme 515

Scheme 515

Scheme 516

Scheme 516

Scheme 517

Scheme 517

Scheme 518

Scheme 518
  1. Slide the park gear (A) over the countershaft (B).
  2. Place the park gear (A) on press bases (B), and place a spacer (C) between the countershaft (D) and the press to prevent damaging the countershaft.
  3. Install the park gear using a press.
  4. Install the 53 x 57 x 20 mm needle bearing (A), 1st gear (B), 5th gear (C), the 42.5 x 52.5 x 2.5 mm thrust washer (D), the 5th gear collar (E), the selected 42.5 mm thrust shim (F), and 2nd gear (G) on the countershaft (H). Install 2nd gear and 5th gear in the direction shown in illustration.
  5. Install the ball bearing (A) over the countershaft (B), then press it into place using the 40 mm driver handle and the press.
  6. Secure the final drive gear part of the countershaft in a bench vise with wood blocks, install a new lock bolt (A), and tighten it to 125 N.m (12.7 kgf.m, 92 lbf.ft). The lock bolt has left-hand threads. NOTE: After this procedure, remove wood chips that may be stuck to the gear.

Scheme 519

Scheme 519: Exploded View

Note. Refer to the EXPLODED VIEW as needed during the following procedure.

Scheme 520

Scheme 520

Scheme 521

Scheme 521

Scheme 522

Scheme 522

Scheme 523

Scheme 523
  1. Remove the sealing rings (A).
  2. Remove the 32 mm snap ring (B), and remove the 1st clutch (C) and O-rings (D).
  3. Remove the 37 x 49 x 3.4 mm thrust washer (E), the 37 x 50 x 2.5 mm thrust needle bearing (F), 1st gear (G), the 32 x 38 x 34 mm needle bearing (H), the 37 x 52 x 2 mm thrust washer (I), and the 38 x 54 x 3.5 mm thrust needle bearing (J).
  4. Secure the idler gear (A) on the secondary shaft (B) in a bench vise with wood blocks, loosen the lock bolt (C), and remove it. NOTE: After this procedure, remove wood chips that may be stuck to the gear.
  5. Place the idler gear (A) on press bases (B), and place a spacer (C) between the secondary shaft (D) and the press to prevent damaging the secondary shaft.
  6. Remove the ball bearing (A), the 38 x 64 x 3.5 mm thrust needle bearing (B), 2nd gear (C), the 38 x 44 x 22.5 mm needle bearing (D), the 39 x 57 x 2.5 mm thrust needle bearing (E), the 2nd gear collar (F), the 2nd/5th clutch (G), the O-rings (H), the 5th gear collar (I), the 49 x 66 x 3 mm thrust needle bearing (J), 5th gear (K), the 45 x 50 x 25 mm needle bearing (L), the 49 x 66 x 3 mm thrust needle bearing (M), and the idler gear (N) using a press.
  7. Inspect the bearings for galling and rough movement.
  8. Check the shaft bearing surfaces for scoring and excessive wear, and check the shaft splines for excessive wear and damage.
  9. Check the secondary shaft 2nd gear and 5th gear axial clearance (see «SECONDARY SHAFT 2ND GEAR AND 5TH GEAR AXIAL CLEARANCE INSPECTION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__secondary-shaft-2nd-gear-and-5th) ), and check the secondary shaft installation height (see «SECONDARY SHAFT INSTALLATION HEIGHT INSPECTION/ADJUSTMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

Secondary Shaft 2nd Gear and 5th Gear Axial Clearance Inspection

Special Tools Required

Driver Handle, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100

Scheme 524

Scheme 524: Secondary Shaft 2nd Gear and 5th Gear Axial Clearance Inspection

Scheme 525

Scheme 525

Scheme 526

Scheme 526

Scheme 527

Scheme 527

Scheme 528

Scheme 528

Scheme 529

Scheme 529

Scheme 530

Scheme 530

Scheme 531

Scheme 531

Scheme 532

Scheme 532
  1. Slide the idler gear (A) over the secondary shaft (B) in the direction shown in illustration.
  2. Place the idler gear (A) on press bases (B), and place a spacer (C) between the secondary shaft (D) and the press to prevent damaging the secondary shaft.
  3. Install the idler gear using a press.
  4. Install the 49 x 66 x 3 mm thrust needle bearing (A), the 45 x 50 x 25 mm needle bearing (B), 5th gear (C), the 49 x 66 x 3 mm thrust needle bearing (D), and the 5th gear collar (E) on the secondary shaft (F).
  5. Press the 5th gear collar into place using the 40 mm I.D. driver handle and the press.
  6. Install the 2nd/5th clutch (A) and the 2nd gear collar (B) on the secondary shaft (C).
  7. Install the ball bearing (A) over the secondary shaft (B), then press it into place using the 40 mm I.D. driver handle and the press.
  8. Secure the idler gear (A) on the secondary shaft (B) in a bench vise with wood blocks, install the old lock bolt (C), and tighten it to 78 N.m (8.0 kgf.m, 58 lbf.ft). NOTE: After this procedure, remove wood chips that may be stuck to the gear.
  9. Measure the clearance between the 2nd gear collar (A) and the ball bearing (B) with a feeler gauge (C) in at least three places. Use the average as the actual clearance. Standard: 0.05-0.12 mm (0.002-0.004 in)
  10. If the clearance is out of the standard, remove the 2nd gear collar and measure its height.
  11. Select and install a new 2nd gear collar, then recheck the clearance. 2ND GEAR COLLAR No. Height A 32.89 mm (1.2949 in) B 32.94 mm (1.2968 in) C 32.99 mm (1.2988 in) D 33.04 mm (1.3008 in) E 33.09 mm (1.3028 in) F 33.14 mm (1.3047 in) G 33.19 mm (1.3067 in) H 33.24 mm (1.3087 in)

Secondary Shaft Reassembly

Special Tools Required

Driver Handle, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100

Scheme 533

Scheme 533: Secondary Shaft Reassembly

Scheme 534

Scheme 534

Scheme 535

Scheme 535

Scheme 536

Scheme 536

Scheme 537

Scheme 537

Scheme 538

Scheme 538

Scheme 539

Scheme 539

Scheme 540

Scheme 540
  1. Slide the idler gear (A) over the secondary shaft (B) in the direction shown in illustration.
  2. Place the idler gear (A) on press bases (B), and place a spacer (C) between the secondary shaft (D) and the press to prevent damaging the secondary shaft.
  3. Install the idler gear using a press.
  4. Install the 49 x 66 x 3 mm thrust needle bearing (A), the 45 x 50 x 25 mm needle bearing (B), 5th gear (C), the 49 x 66 x 3 mm thrust needle bearing (D), and the 5th gear collar (E) on the secondary shaft (F).
  5. Press the 5th gear collar into place using the 40 mm I.D. driver handle and the press.
  6. Wrap the shaft splines with electrical tape to prevent O-ring damage, install new O-rings (A) on the secondary shaft (B), then remove the tape.
  7. Install the 2nd/5th clutch (C), the selected 2nd gear collar (D), the 39 x 57 x 2.5 mm thrust needle bearing (E), the 38 x 44 x 22.5 mm needle bearing (F), 2nd gear (G), and the 38 x 64 x 3.5 mm thrust needle bearing (H).
  8. Install the ball bearing (A) over the secondary shaft (B), then press it into place using the 40 mm I.D. driver handle and the press.
  9. Secure the idler gear (A) on the secondary shaft (B) in a bench vise with wood blocks, install a new lock bolt (C), and tighten it to 78 N.m (8.0 kgf.m, 58 lbf.ft). NOTE: After this procedure, remove wood chips that may be stuck to the gear.
  10. Install the 38 x 54 x 3.5 mm thrust needle bearing (A), the 37 x 52 x 2 mm mm thrust washer (B), the 32 x 38 x 34 needle bearing (C), 1st gear (D), the 37 x 50 x 2.5 mm thrust needle bearing (E), and the 37 x 49 x 3.4 mm thrust washer (F) on the secondary shaft (G).
  11. Wrap the shaft splines with electrical tape, and install new O-rings (H) in the O-ring grooves, then remove the tape.
  12. Install the 1st clutch (I) on the secondary shaft, and secure the 1st clutch with the 32 mm snap ring (J).
  13. Install new sealing rings (K).

Scheme 541

Scheme 541: Secondary Shaft Installation Height Inspection/Adjustment

Scheme 542

Scheme 542

Scheme 543

Scheme 543

Scheme 544

Scheme 544
  1. Install the thrust needle bearing (A) in the torque converter housing (B) in the direction shown in illustration, and install the secondary shaft assembly (C).
  2. Install a new gasket (A) on the torque converter housing. Secondary Shaft Cutaway View D
  3. Measure the height (B) of the secondary shaft installation between the surface (C) of the gasket and the top of the ball bearing outer race (D), then note the measurement.
  4. While compressing the 89 mm thrust shim (A) using snap ring pliers, remove the 89 mm thrust shim from the transmission housing, and measure its thickness.
  5. Calculate the thickness of the 89 mm thrust shim using the formula. Formula: 89 mm Thrust Shim Thickness = Secondary Shaft Installation Height Standard -Measurement Secondary Shaft Installation Height Standard: 259.10-259.19 mm (10.2008-10.2043 in)
  6. Select an 89 mm thrust shim from the following table. THRUST SHIM, 89 MM No. Thickness A 0.85 mm (0.0335 in) B 0.92 mm (0.0362 in) C 0.99 mm (0.0390 in) D 1.06 mm (0.0417 in) E 1.13 mm (0.0445 in) F 1.20 mm (0.0472 in) G 1.27 mm (0.0500 in) H 1.34 mm (0.0528 in) I 1.41 mm (0.0555 in) J 1.48 mm (0.0583 in) K 1.55 mm (0.0610 in) L 1.62 mm (0.0638 in) M 1.69 mm (0.0665 in) N 1.76 mm (0.0693 in) O 1.83 mm (0.0720 in) P 1.90 mm (0.0748 in) Q 1.97 mm (0.0776 in) R 2.04 mm (0.0803 in) S 2.11 mm (0.0831 in) T 2.18 mm (0.0858 in)
  7. Install the thrust shim in the transmission housing.

Scheme 545

Scheme 545: Exploded View

Note. Refer to the EXPLODED VIEW as needed during the following procedure.

Scheme 546

Scheme 546

Scheme 547

Scheme 547

Scheme 548

Scheme 548
  1. Remove the reverse gear (A), the reverse selector (B), the 35 x 41 x 32 mm needle bearing (C), and the reverse gear collar (D).
  2. Remove the sealing rings (E), the snap ring (F), the 4th clutch (G), and the O-rings (H).
  3. Install a commercially available bearing separator (A) on the tapered part (B) of 6th gear (C). Place a spacer (D) between the third shaft (E) and the press to prevent damaging the third shaft.
  4. Remove the reverse selector hub (A), 6th gear (B), and the 37 x 42 x 25 mm needle bearings (C) using a press.
  5. Remove the snap ring (D), the cotter retainer (E), and the 36 mm cotters (F), and remove the 4th gear washer (G), the 49 x 66 x 3 mm thrust needle bearing (H), 4th gear (I), the 45 x 50 x 25 mm needle bearing (J), and the 49 x 66 x 3 mm thrust needle bearing (K) from the third shaft (L).
  6. Inspect the bearings for galling and rough movement.
  7. Check the shaft bearing surfaces for scoring and excessive wear, and check the shaft splines for excessive wear and damage.
  8. Check the third shaft 6th gear axial clearance (see «THIRD SHAFT 6TH GEAR AXIAL CLEARANCE INSPECTION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__third-shaft-6th-gear-axial-clearance) ).

Third Shaft 6th Gear Axial Clearance Inspection

Special Tools Required

  1. Driver Handle, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
  2. Bearing Driver Attachment, 30 mm 07746-0030300

Scheme 549

Scheme 549

Scheme 550

Scheme 550

Scheme 551

Scheme 551

Scheme 552

Scheme 552
  1. Install the 49 x 66 x 3 mm thrust needle bearing (A), the 45 x 50 x 25 mm needle bearing (B), 4th gear (C), the 49 x 66 x 3 mm thrust needle bearing (D), and the 4th gear washer (E), and install the 36 mm cotters (F), the cotter retainer (G), and the snap ring (H) on the third shaft (I). Install the 4th gear washer by aligning the fingers (J) with the grooves (K), and in the direction shown in illustration.
  2. Install the 37 x 42 x 25 mm needle bearings (L) and 6th gear (M) on the third shaft.
  3. Apply ATF to the shaft splines of the reverse selector hub contact area, then slide the reverse selector hub (A) over the third shaft (B), then press it into place using the 40 mm I.D. driver handle, the 30 mm bearing driver attachment, and a press.
  4. Measure the clearance between 6th gear (A) and the reverse selector hub (B) with a feeler gauge (C) in at least three places. Use the average as the actual clearance. Standard: 0.005-0.050 mm (0.001-0.001 in)
  5. If the clearance is out of the standard, remove the 4th gear washer and measure its thickness.
  6. Select and install a new 4th gear washer, then recheck the clearance. 4TH GEAR WASHER No. Thickness (t) A 8.515 mm (0.33524 in) B 8.540 mm (0.33622 in) C 8.565 mm (0.33720 in) D 8.590 mm (0.33819 in) E 8.615 mm (0.33917 in) F 8.640 mm (0.34016 in)

Third Shaft Reassembly

Special Tools Required

  1. Driver Handle, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
  2. Bearing Driver Attachment, 30 mm 07746-0030300

Scheme 553

Scheme 553

Scheme 554

Scheme 554

Scheme 555

Scheme 555
  1. Install the 49 x 66 x 3 mm thrust needle bearing (A), the 45 x 50 x 25 mm needle bearing (B), 4th gear (C), the 49 x 66 x 3 mm thrust needle bearing (D), and the selected 4th gear washer (E), and install the 36 mm cotters (F), the cotter retainer (G), and the snap ring (H) on the third shaft (I). Install the 4th gear washer by aligning the fingers (J) with the grooves (K), and in the direction shown in illustration.
  2. Install the 37 x 42 x 25 mm needle bearings (L) and 6th gear (M) on the third shaft.
  3. Apply ATF to the shaft splines of the reverse selector hub contact area, then slide the reverse selector hub (A) over the third shaft (B), then press it into place using the 40 mm I.D. driver handle, the 30 mm bearing driver attachment, and a press.
  4. Install the reverse gear collar (A), the 35 x 41 x 32 mm needle bearing (B), the reverse selector (C), and the reverse gear (D) on the third shaft (E).
  5. Wrap the shaft splines with electrical tape, and install new O-rings (F) in the 4th clutch O-ring grooves, then remove the tape.
  6. Install the 4th clutch (G) on the third shaft, and secure the 4th clutch with the 35 mm snap ring (H).
  7. Install new sealing rings (I).

Scheme 556

Scheme 556: Exploded View

Note. Refer to the EXPLODED VIEW as needed during the following procedure.

Scheme 557

Scheme 557

Scheme 558

Scheme 558
  1. Remove the 41.5 mm washer (A) and the 27.5 x 41 x 2.5 mm thrust needle bearing (B).
  2. Remove the snap ring (C), the cotter retainer (D), and the 32.5 mm cotters (E) from the idler gear shaft (F).
  3. Place the idler gear (A) on press bases (B), and place a spacer (C) between the idler gear shaft (D) and the press to prevent damaging the idler gear shaft.
  4. Remove the idler gear using a press.
  5. Inspect the bearings for galling and rough movement.
  6. Check the shaft bearing surfaces for scoring and excessive wear.
  7. Check the idler gear shaft installation height (see «IDLER GEAR SHAFT INSTALLATION HEIGHT INSPECTION/ADJUSTMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

Scheme 559

Scheme 559: Idler Gear Shaft Reassembly

Scheme 560

Scheme 560

Scheme 561

Scheme 561
  1. Install the idler gear (A) over the idler gear shaft (B).
  2. Place the idler gear (A) on press bases (B), and place a spacer (C) between the idler gear shaft (D) and the press to prevent damaging the idler gear shaft.
  3. Install the idler gear using a press.
  4. Install the 32.5 mm cotter (A), the cotter retainer (B), and the snap ring (C) on the idler gear shaft (D).
  5. Install the 27.5 x 41 x 2.5 mm thrust needle bearing (E) and the 41.5 mm washer (F).

Scheme 562

Scheme 562: Idler Gear Shaft Installation Height Inspection/Adjustment

Scheme 563

Scheme 563
  1. Install the idler gear shaft (A) in the torque converter housing, and install the 27.5 x 41 x 2.5 mm thrust needle bearing (B) and the 41.5 mm washer (C) on the idler gear shaft. Idler Gear Shaft Installation Height: Standard: 116.24-116.30 mm (4.5764-4.5787 in) Idler Gear Shaft Cutaway View
  2. Install a new gasket (D) on the torque converter housing.
  3. Measure the installation height (E) of the idler gear shaft between the surface (F) of the gasket and the surface (G) of the 41.5 mm washer.
  4. If the measurement is out of the standard, remove the 41.5 mm washer and measure its thickness.
  5. Select and install a new 41.5 mm washer, then recheck the installation height. WASHER, 41.5 MM No. Thickness A 1.26 mm (0.0496 in) B 1.30 mm (0.0512 in) C 1.34 mm (0.0528 in) D 1.38 mm (0.0543 in) E 1.42 mm (0.0559 in) F 1.46 mm (0.0575 in) G 1.50 mm (0.0591 in) H 1.54 mm (0.0606 in) I 1.58 mm (0.0622 in) J 1.62 mm (0.0638 in) K 1.66 mm (0.0654 in) L 1.70 mm (0.0669 in) M 1.74 mm (0.0685 in) N 1.78 mm (0.0701 in) O 1.82 mm (0.0717 in) P 1.86 mm (0.0732 in) Q 1.90 mm (0.0748 in) R 1.94 mm (0.0764 in) S 1.98 mm (0.0780 in) T 2.02 mm (0.0795 in) U 2.06 mm (0.0811 in)

Clutch Clearance Inspection

Special Tools Required

Clutch Compressor Attachment 07ZAE-PRP0100

Scheme 564

Scheme 564: Clutch Clearance Inspection

Scheme 565

Scheme 565
  1. Set a dial indicator (A) on the clutch end-plate (B).
  2. Zero the dial indicator with the clutch end-plate lifted up to the snap ring (C).
  3. Release the clutch end-plate to lower it, then put the clutch compressor attachment on the end-plate (A).
  4. Press the clutch compressor attachment down with 147.1 N (15.00 kgf, 33.07 lbf) (B) using a force gauge or equivalent, and read the dial indicator (C).
  5. The dial indicator reads the clearance (D) between the clutch end-plate and the top disc (E). Take measurements in at least three places, and use the average as the actual clearance. Clearance Between Clutch End-Plate and Top Disc Standard: 1st Clutch: 1.50-1.70 mm (0.0591-0.0669 in) 2nd Clutch: 1.25-1.45 mm (0.0492-0.0571 in) 3rd Clutch: 1.25-1.45 mm (0.0492-0.0571 in) 4th Clutch: 1.50-1.70 mm (0.0591-0.0669 in) 5th Clutch: 1.25-1.45 mm (0.0492-0.0571 in) 6th Clutch: 1.25-1.45 mm (0.0492-0.0571 in)
  6. If the measurement is out of the standard, replace the clutch assembly.

Transmission Reassembly

Special Tools Required

Mainshaft Holder Set 07PAB-0010001

Note. Refer to the EXPLODED VIEW in the Transmission Disassembly as needed during the following procedure. Apply a light coat of clean ATF on all tubes, O-rings, and moving parts before reassembly.

Scheme 566

Scheme 566: Transmission Reassembly

Scheme 567

Scheme 567

Scheme 568

Scheme 568

Scheme 569

Scheme 569

Scheme 570

Scheme 570

Scheme 571

Scheme 571

Scheme 572

Scheme 572

Scheme 573

Scheme 573

Scheme 574

Scheme 574

Scheme 575

Scheme 575

Scheme 576

Scheme 576

Scheme 577

Scheme 577

Scheme 578

Scheme 578

Scheme 579

Scheme 579

Scheme 580

Scheme 580

Scheme 581

Scheme 581

Scheme 582

Scheme 582

Scheme 583

Scheme 583

Scheme 584

Scheme 584

Scheme 585

Scheme 585

Scheme 586

Scheme 586

Scheme 587

Scheme 587

Scheme 588

Scheme 588

Scheme 589

Scheme 589

Scheme 590

Scheme 590

Scheme 591

Scheme 591

Scheme 592

Scheme 592

Scheme 593

Scheme 593

Scheme 594

Scheme 594

Scheme 595

Scheme 595

Scheme 596

Scheme 596

Scheme 597

Scheme 597

Scheme 598

Scheme 598

Scheme 599

Scheme 599
  1. Make sure that the ATF magnet (A) is cleaned and installed in the torque converter housing. Clean and install the ATF magnet, if necessary.
  2. Install the main separator plate (B) and the two dowel pins (C) on the torque converter housing.
  3. Install the ATF pump drive gear (D), the ATF pump driven gear (E), and the ATF pump driven gear shaft (F). Install the ATF pump driven gear with its grooved and chamfered side facing down.
  4. Install the main valve body (G) (eight bolts).
  5. Install the 4th/reverse air check valve (H).
  6. Make sure the ATF pump drive gear (A) rotates smoothly in the normal operating direction, and the ATF pump driven gear shaft (B) moves smoothly in the axial and normal operating direction.
  7. If the ATF pump drive gear and ATF pump driven gear shaft do not move smoothly, loosen the main valve body bolts. Realign the ATF pump driven gear shaft, and retighten the bolts to the specified torques, then recheck. Failure to align the ATF pump driven gear shaft correctly will result in a seized ATF pump drive gear or ATF pump driven gear shaft.
  8. Install the two check balls (A) in the main valve body.
  9. Install the regulator separator plate (B) and the two dowel pins (C) on the main valve body, and install the regulator valve body (D) (eight bolts).
  10. Install the manual separator plate (E) and the two dowel pins (F) on the main valve body, and install the manual valve body (G) (seven bolts).
  11. Install the two dowel pins (A) on the main valve body.
  12. Install the stator shaft (B) with new O-rings (three) (C), and install the stator shaft support (D) (four bolts).
  13. Install the 3rd air check valve (E) and the 6th air check valve (F).
  14. Install the stator shaft stop (G) in the torque converter housing.
  15. Install the cooler retainer cap (A).
  16. Install the 2nd air check valve (A), the 5th air check valve (B), and the oil catch plate (C).
  17. Install the transfer output shaft (D) in the torque converter housing, and install the thrust shim (E) on the top of the transfer output shaft.
  18. Install the differential assembly (F) in the torque converter housing.
  19. Install the selector control shaft (G).
  20. Align the control lever pin (A) with the manual valve guide (B).
  21. Hook the detent spring (A) to the detent arm (B) and the selector control shaft (C), then install the detent arm and the detent arm shaft (D) into the torque converter housing.
  22. Install the parking holder (A).
  23. Install the third shaft (B) into the main valve body.
  24. Assemble the mainshaft, the countershaft, the secondary shaft, and the idler gear shaft.
  25. Install the thrust needle bearing (A) on the secondary shaft bearing in the torque converter housing.
  26. Join the mainshaft subassembly (B), the countershaft subassembly (C), the secondary shaft subassembly (D), and the idler gear shaft subassembly (E) together, and install them in the torque converter housing. Install the 27.5 x 41 x 2.5 mm thrust needle bearing (F) and the 41.5 mm washer (G) on the top of the idler gear shaft.
  27. Turn the shift fork shaft (A) so the large chamfered hole is facing the fork bolt hole of the shift fork.
  28. Install the baffle plate (B), the shift fork (C), the reverse selector hub (D), and the reverse gear (E) together.
  29. Secure the shift fork (A) to the shift fork shaft with the lock bolt and a new lock washer (B), then bend the lock tab of the lock washer against the bolt head.
  30. Install the lubrication pipe (A) and the 10x70 mm ATF joint pipe (B) into the regulator valve body (C).
  31. Install the ATF strainer (D) with a new O-ring (E).
  32. Install new O-rings (C) (four) on ATF joint pipes A and B, and install the joint pipes into the manual valve body (D) and the torque converter housing (E).
  33. Install the two dowel pins (A) and a new gasket (B) on the torque converter housing (C).
  34. Place the transmission housing (D) on the torque converter housing.
  35. Wrap a screwdriver tip with tape to prevent damaging the reverse idler gear teeth. Engage the reverse idler gear with the reverse gears by rotating the idler gear using a screwdriver.
  36. While expanding the snap ring of the countershaft bearing using snap ring pliers, install the transmission housing onto the bearing part-way. Then release snap ring pliers, and push down on the transmission housing until it bottoms and snap ring snaps into place on the countershaft bearing snap ring groove.
  37. Install the transmission housing mounting bolts along with transmission hanger C, and tighten the bolts in at least two steps in a criss-cross pattern to the specified torques.
  38. Install the mainshaft holder onto the mainshaft.
  39. Install the control lever (A) over the selector control shaft (B). Secure the control lever with a new lock washer (C) and the bolt, then bend the lock tab of the lock washer against the bolt head.
  40. Shift the transmission in the P position by rotating the control lever. Do not use the control shaft to adjust the shift position. If the selector control shaft tips are squeezed together, it will cause a faulty signal or position due to play between the control shaft and the transmission range switch.
  41. Install the old lock washers (A) with the marked side (B) up over the mainshaft (C) and the third shaft (D), and apply ATF to surfaces of the old lock washers and the old locknuts (E).
  42. Install the old locknuts, and tighten them to seat the lock washers to the specified torques, then remove the old locknuts and the old lock washers. NOTE: The third shaft locknut has left-hand threads.
  43. Install new locknuts and new lock washers, and tighten them to the specified torques, then stake the locknuts into the shafts to a depth (A) of 0.7-1.3 mm (0.028-0.051 in) using a 3.5 mm punch (B). NOTE: Do not rotate the locknuts in the reverse direction after the locknuts are seated to the lock washers. The third shaft locknut has left-hand threads.
  44. Install transmission hanger A.
  45. Install a new O-ring (B) on the mainshaft end cover (C), and install the mainshaft end cover. Install a new O-ring (D) on the third shaft end cover (E), and install the third shaft end cover with the ATF filter bracket (F).
  46. Install new O-rings (G) on the end covers (H), and install the end covers.
  47. Apply ATF to new O-rings (A), and install the O-rings over the ATF pipes (B). Then install the ATF pipes with the filter ends (C) facing the secondary valve body (D) into the transmission. NOTE: There are 11 ATF pipes. Do not drop the ATF pipes into the transmission. If an ATF pipe is dropped into the transmission, the transmission will need to be disassembled.
  48. Install a new gasket (E) on the transmission housing.
  49. Install the secondary valve body while aligning the ATF pipes with the pipe holes on the secondary valve body, and secure the secondary valve body with the bolts.
  50. Install new O-rings (A) on shift solenoid valve C (B), and install shift solenoid valve C.
  51. Install transmission fluid pressure switch C (4th clutch) (C) with a new sealing washer (D). Tighten the switch by gripping the metal part, not the plastic part.
  52. Install transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) with a new sealing washer (C). Tighten the switch by gripping the metal part, not the plastic part.
  53. Install transmission fluid pressure switch D (5th clutch) with a new sealing washer (E). Tighten the switch by gripping the metal part, not the plastic part.
  54. Install transmission hanger B.
  55. Install the ATF outlet line (A), and secure it with the banjo bolt (B) and new sealing washers (C), then secure the ATF outlet line with the bracket bolt.
  56. Install the ATF inlet line/ATF hose/ATF filter (D), and secure it with the banjo bolt (E) and new sealing washers (F), then secure the ATF inlet line with the bracket bolt.
  57. Put the ATF filter (G) on the ATF filter bracket (H), and secure it with the ATF filter holder (I) and the bolt.
  58. Install a new O-ring (A) on the ATF temperature sensor (B), and install the ATF temperature sensor.
  59. Install a new O-ring (A) on the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (B), and install the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor.
  60. Install a new O-ring (C) on the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (D), and install the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor.
  61. Shift the transmission into the N position by rotating the control lever from the P position. Do not use the control shaft to adjust the shift position. If the selector control shaft tips are squeezed together, it will cause a faulty signal or position due to play between the control shaft and the transmission range switch.
  62. Align the cutouts (A) on the rotary-frame with the N positioning cutouts (B) on the transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.079 in) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold the switch in the N position. NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.079 in) blade or equivalent to hold the switch in the N position.
  63. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft while holding it in the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.079 in) blade (B).
  64. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position. Do not move the transmission range switch when tightening the bolts. Remove the feeler gauge.
  65. Install the ATF dipstick guide tubes (A) with new O-rings (B).
  66. Install the ATF dipstick in the guide tube.

Scheme 600

Scheme 600: Component Location Index

Scheme 601

Scheme 601: Backlash Inspection
  1. Remove the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear from the differential carrier (see «DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER, FINAL DRIVEN GEAR, AND TRANSFER DRIVE GEAR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__differential-carrier-final-driven-gear-and) ).
  2. Install both axles into the differential assembly (A) and place the axles on V-blocks (B).
  3. Measure the backlash of the pinion gears (C) with a dial indicator (D). Standard (New): 0.05-0.15 mm (0.0020-0.0059 in)
  4. If the backlash is out of the standard, replace the differential assembly.
  5. Install the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear on the differential carrier (see «DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER, FINAL DRIVEN GEAR, AND TRANSFER DRIVE GEAR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__differential-carrier-final-driven-gear-and) ).

Differential Carrier, Final Driven Gear, and Transfer Drive Gear Replacement

Note. Inspect and adjust the bearing preload whenever the differential carrier is replaced.

Scheme 602

Scheme 602: Differential Carrier, Final Driven Gear, and Transfer Drive Gear Replacement
  1. Remove the final driven gear (A) and the transfer drive gear (B) from the differential carrier (C). NOTE: The final driven gear bolts have left-hand threads.
  2. Install the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear on the differential carrier in the direction shown in illustration.
  3. Install the bolts through the differential carrier to the transfer drive gear.
  4. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque in a crisscross pattern in at least two steps.

Carrier Bearing Replacement

Special Tools Required

Installer Attachment, 45 x 55 mm 07MAD-PR90100

Note. The carrier bearing and the carrier bearing outer race should be replaced as a set. Inspect and adjust the carrier bearing preload whenever the bearing is replaced. Check the bearing for wear and rough rotation. If the bearing is OK, removal is not necessary.

Scheme 603

Scheme 603: Carrier Bearing Replacement

Scheme 604

Scheme 604
  1. Remove the carrier bearing (A) using a commercially available bearing puller (B), a bearing separator (C), and a spacer (D).
  2. Install a new carrier bearing until it bottoms using the 45 x 55 mm installer attachment and a press.

Oil Seal Replacement

Special Tools Required

  1. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
  2. Oil Seal Driver Attachment 07JAD-PH80101
  3. Oil Seal Driver Attachment, 60 mm 07LAD-SM40100

Scheme 605

Scheme 605

Scheme 606

Scheme 606

Scheme 607

Scheme 607

Scheme 608

Scheme 608
  1. Remove the oil seal from the transmission housing.
  2. Remove the oil seal from the torque converter housing.
  3. Install a new oil seal flush with the transmission housing using the 15 x 135L drive handle and the 60 mm oil seal driver attachment.
  4. Install a new oil seal flush with the torque converter housing using the 15 x 135L drive handle and the 58 mm oil seal driver attachment.

Carrier Bearing Outer Race Replacement

Special Tools Required

  1. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
  2. Attachment, 83 mm 07HAD-SG00100

Note. Replace the carrier bearing with a new one whenever the bearing outer race is replaced. Do not use the 85 mm thrust shim on the torque converter housing side. Adjust the preload after replacing the bearing and the outer race. Coat all parts with ATF during installation.

Scheme 609

Scheme 609

Scheme 610

Scheme 610

Scheme 611

Scheme 611

Scheme 612

Scheme 612

Scheme 613

Scheme 613
  1. Remove the bearing outer race (A), the spacer (B), and the 85 mm thrust shim (C) from the transmission housing (D) by heating the transmission housing to about 212°F (100°C) with a heat gun (E). Do not heat the transmission housing more than 212°F(100°C).
  2. Install the 85 mm thrust shim (A) in the transmission housing (B).
  3. Install the spacer (C) by aligning the tab (D) with the groove (E), and install the bearing outer race (F) in the transmission housing.
  4. Drive the outer race securely into the transmission housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 83 mm attachment so there is no clearance between the outer race, the spacer, the 85 mm thrust shim, and the transmission housing.
  5. Remove the bearing outer race (A) and the spacer (B) from the torque converter housing (C).
  6. Install the spacer by aligning the tab (D) with the groove (E), and install a new bearing outer race in the torque converter housing.
  7. Drive the bearing outer race securely in the torque converter housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 83 mm attachment.

Carrier bearing Preload Inspection

Special Tools Required

  1. Attachment, 83 mm 07HAD-SG00100
  2. Preload Inspection Tool 070AJ-0020101
  3. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000

Note. If the transmission housing, the torque converter housing, the differential carrier, the tapered roller bearing, the bearing outer race, or the thrust shim were replaced, the bearing preload must be adjusted.

Scheme 614

Scheme 614

Scheme 615

Scheme 615

Scheme 616

Scheme 616

Scheme 617

Scheme 617

Scheme 618

Scheme 618
  1. Remove the bearing outer race (A), the spacer (B), and the 85 mm thrust shim (C) from the transmission housing (D) by heating the transmission housing to about 212°F (100°C) with a heat gun (E). Do not heat the transmission housing more than 212°F(100°C). NOTE: Let the transmission housing cool to room temperature before adjusting the bearing preload.
  2. Replace the tapered roller bearing when the bearing outer race is to be replaced.
  3. Do not use an 85 mm shim on the torque converter housing side.
  4. Install the 85 mm thrust shim (A) in the transmission housing (B). If you install a new 85 mm thrust shim, use the same thickness shim as the old one.
  5. Install the spacer (C) by aligning the tab (D) with the groove (E), and install the bearing outer race (F) in the transmission housing.
  6. Drive the bearing outer race securely in the transmission housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 83 mm attachment so there is no clearance between the bearing outer race, the spacer, the 85 mm thrust shim, and the transmission housing.
  7. Install the differential assembly (B) in the torque converter housing (C), and install a new gasket (D) and the two dowel pins (E) on the torque converter housing.
  8. Install the transmission housing (F), and install the mounting bolts (30 bolts) with transmission hanger A, then tighten the bolts.
  9. Rotate the differential assembly in both directions to seat the bearings.
  10. Measure the starting torque of the differential assembly with the preload inspection tool, a torque wrench (A), and a socket (B). Measure the starting torque at normal room temperature in both directions. Standard New bearings: 3.9-5.6 N.m (40-57 kgf.cm, 35-50 lbf.in) Reused bearings: 3.6-5.3 N.m (37-54 kgf.cm, 32-47 lbf.in)
  11. If the measurement is out of the standard, remove the 85 mm thrust shim and measure its thickness.
  12. Select a new 85 mm thrust shim. To increase the starting torque, increase thickness of the 85 mm thrust shim. To decrease the starting torque, decrease the thickness of the 85 mm thrust shim. Changing the 85 mm shim to the next size will increase or decrease the starting torque about 0.5- 0.6 N.m (5.10-6.12 kgf.cm, 3.8-4.5 lbf.in). THRUST SHIM, 85 MM No. Thickness A 1.350 mm (0.05315 in) B 1.375 mm (0.05413 in) C 1.400 mm (0.05512 in) D 1.425 mm (0.05610 in) E 1.450 mm (0.05709 in) F 1.475 mm (0.05807 in) G 1.500 mm (0.05906 in) H 1.525 mm (0.06004 in) I 1.550 mm (0.06102 in) J 1.575 mm (0.06201 in) K 1.600 mm (0.06299 in) L 1.625 mm (0.06398 in) M 1.650 mm (0.06496 in) N 1.675 mm (0.06594 in) O 1.700 mm (0.06693 in) P 1.725 mm (0.06791 in) Q 1.750 mm (0.06890 in) R 1.775 mm (0.06988 in) S 1.800 mm (0.07087 in) T 1.825 mm (0.07185 in) U 1.850 mm (0.07283 in) V 1.875 mm (0.07382 in) W 1.900 mm (0.07480 in) X 1.925 mm (0.07579 in) Y 1.950 mm (0.07677 in) AA 2.000 mm (0.07874 in) AB 2.025 mm (0.07972 in) AC 2.050 mm (0.08071 in) AD 2.075 mm (0.08169 in) AE 2.100 mm (0.08268 in) AF 2.125 mm (0.08366 in) AG 2.150 mm (0.08465 in) AH 2.175 mm (0.08563 in) AI 2.200 mm (0.08661 in) AJ 2.225 mm (0.08760 in) AK 2.250 mm (0.08858 in) AL 2.275 mm (0.08957 in) AM 2.300 mm (0.09055 in) AN 2.325 mm (0.09154 in) AO 2.350 mm (0.09252 in) AP 1.250 mm (0.04921 in) AQ 1.275 mm (0.05020 in) AR 1.300 mm (0.05118 in) AS 1.325 mm (0.05217 in)
  13. Install a new thrust shim, then recheck the starting torque.

Scheme 619

Scheme 619: Component Location Index

Transfer Output Shaft Bearing Replacement

Special Tools Required

Driver Handle, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100

Scheme 620

Scheme 620: Transfer Output Shaft Bearing Replacement

Scheme 621

Scheme 621
  1. Remove the transfer output shaft bearing (A) with a commercially available puller (B), a bearing separator (C), and a spacer (D). Place a spacer between the transfer output shaft and the puller to prevent damaging the transfer output shaft.
  2. Install a new bearing (A) until it bottoms on the transfer output shaft using the 40 mm I.D. driver handle and a press.

Special Tools Required

  1. Oil Seal Driver Attachment, 65 mm 07JAD-SH3010A
  2. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000

Scheme 622

Scheme 622

Scheme 623

Scheme 623
  1. Remove the oil seal from the torque converter housing.
  2. Install a new oil seal flush with the torque converter housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 65 mm oil seal driver attachment.

Transmission Housing Bearing Replacement

Special Tools Required

  1. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
  2. Oil Seal Driver, 66 mm 07947-3710200

Scheme 624

Scheme 624

Scheme 625

Scheme 625

Scheme 626

Scheme 626
  1. Remove the transfer output shaft bearing (A) from the transmission housing (B) by heating the transmission housing to about 212°F (100°C) with a heat gun (C). Do not heat the transmission housing more than 212°F(100°C).
  2. Install a new bearing in the transmission housing in the direction shown in illustration.
  3. Drive a new bearing until it bottoms in the transmission housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 66 mm oil seal driver.

Transfer Output Shaft Installation Height Inspection/Adjustment

Note. If the transfer output shaft, the transfer output shaft bearing, the transmission housing bearing, the transmission housing, or the torque converter housing were replaced, adjust the transfer output shaft installation height with the 28.5 mm thrust shim.

Scheme 627

Scheme 627: Transfer Output Shaft Installation Height Inspection/Adjustment

Scheme 628

Scheme 628
  1. Install the transfer output shaft (A) in the torque converter housing, and install the 28.5 mm thrust shim (B) on the top of the shaft. If you install a new 28.5 mm thrust shim, use the same thickness shim as the old one. Standard: 47.26-47.30 mm (1.8606-1.8622 in) Transfer Output Shaft Cutaway View
  2. Install a new gasket (C) on the torque converter housing.
  3. Measure the height (D) of the transfer output shaft installation between the surface (E) of the gasket and the top (F) of the 28.5 mm thrust shim in at least three places. Use the average as the actual height.
  4. If the measurement is out of the standard, remove the 28.5 mm thrust shim and measure its thickness.
  5. Select and install a new thrust shim, then recheck the installation height. THRUST SHIM, 28.5 MM No. Thickness A 1.82 mm (0.0717 in) B 1.84 mm (0.0724 in) C 1.86 mm (0.0732 in) D 1.88 mm (0.0740 in) E 1.90 mm (0.0748 in) F 1.92 mm (0.0756 in) G 1.94 mm (0.0764 in) H 1.96 mm (0.0772 in) I 1.98 mm (0.0780 in) J 2.00 mm (0.0787 in) K 2.02 mm (0.0795 in) L 2.04 mm (0.0803 in) M 2.06 mm (0.0811 in) N 2.08 mm (0.0819 in) O 2.10 mm (0.0827 in) P 2.12 mm (0.0835 in) Q 2.14 mm (0.0843 in) R 2.16 mm (0.0850 in) S 2.18 mm (0.0858 in) T 2.20 mm (0.0866 in) U 2.22 mm (0.0874 in) V 2.24 mm (0.0882 in) W 2.26 mm (0.0890 in) X 2.28 mm (0.0898 in) Y 2.30 mm (0.0906 in) Z 2.32 mm (0.0913 in) AA 2.34 mm (0.0921 in) AB 1.78 mm (0.0701 in) AC 1.80 mm (0.0709 in)

Scheme 629

Scheme 629: Component Location Index

Scheme 630

Scheme 630: Transfer Assembly Fluid Replacement

Scheme 631

Scheme 631
  1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
  2. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off.
  3. Raise the vehicle on a lift, and make sure it is securely supported.
  4. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the transfer fluid (hypoid gear oil).
  5. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B).
  6. Remove the filler plug (A) and the sealing washer (B).
  7. Refill the transfer assembly with the recommended fluid (hypoid gear oil) through the filler hole (C) until the fluid flows out. Use an SAE 90 viscosity hypoid gear oil, API classified GL4 or GL5 only. Viscosity: SAE 90: Above 0°F (-18°C) Transfer Fluid (Hypoid Gear Oil) Capacity: 0.43 L (0.45 US qt) at fluid change 0.45 L (0.48 US qt) at overhaul
  8. Install the filler plug with a new sealing washer.

Scheme 632

Scheme 632: Transfer Gear Backlash Measurement

Scheme 633

Scheme 633
  1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, and make sure it is supported securely.
  2. Shift the transmission into N.
  3. Make reference marks (A) across the No. 1 propeller shaft (B) and the transfer companion flange (C).
  4. Separate the No. 1 propeller shaft from the transfer companion flange.
  5. Set a dial indicator (A) on the transfer companion flange (B); position the dial indicator tip (C) on the direct extension of the bolt hole center (D).
  6. Measure the transfer gear backlash. Standard: 0.06-0.16 mm (0.0024-0.0063 in)
  7. If the transfer gear backlash is out of the standard, replace the transfer assembly.

Total Starting Torque Measurement

Note. To prevent damaging the transfer housing, always use wood blocks or equivalent materials between the transfer housing and the vise.

Scheme 634

Scheme 634: Total Starting Torque Measurement
  1. Remove the transfer assembly (see «TRANSFER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  2. Secure the transfer housing (A) in a bench vise (B) with wood blocks.
  3. Rotate the companion flange several turns to seat the tapered roller bearings.
  4. Measure the total starting torque at the companion flange (C) with a torque wrench (D) and a socket (E). Standard: 2.64-4.23 N.m (26.9-43.1 kgf.cm, 23.3-37.4 lbf.in)
  5. If the total starting torque is out of the standard, replace the transfer assembly.

Fluid Leak Check

  1. Check for fluid leaks between the mating faces of the transfer assembly and the transmission.
  2. If there is leak, remove the transfer cover, then replace the transfer cover oil seal and the O-ring (see «TRANSFER COVER OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__transfer-cover-oil-seal-replacement) ).
  3. Check for fluid leaks between the transfer companion flange and the transfer oil seal.
  4. If there is leak, replace the transfer oil seal and the O-ring (see «TRANSFER OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__transfer-oil-seal-replacement) ). Do not replace the oil seal with the transfer assembly on the transmission.

Scheme 635

Scheme 635: Transfer Assembly Removal

Scheme 636

Scheme 636

Scheme 637

Scheme 637

Scheme 638

Scheme 638

Scheme 639

Scheme 639

Scheme 640

Scheme 640
  1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, and make sure it is supported securely.
  2. Shift the transmission into N.
  3. Remove the engine undercover.
  4. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
  5. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B).
  6. Remove the front subframe stiffener.
  7. Remove exhaust pipe A (see «EXHAUST PIPE AND MUFFLER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system__exhaust-pipe-and-muffler-replacement) ).
  8. Remove the bolt securing the transfer breather hose bracket (A), and disconnect the breather hose (B) from the breather pipe (C) on the transfer assembly.
  9. Make reference marks (A) across the No. 1 propeller shaft (B) and the transfer companion flange (C).
  10. Separate the No. 1 propeller shaft from the transfer companion flange.
  11. Remove the transfer assembly from the transmission.

Scheme 641

Scheme 641: Transfer Assembly Installation

Scheme 642

Scheme 642

Scheme 643

Scheme 643

Scheme 644

Scheme 644

Scheme 645

Scheme 645
  1. Clean the areas where the transfer assembly contacts the transmission with solvent, and dry with compressed air. Then apply ATF to the contact area.
  2. Install the dowel pin (A) in the transmission, and install the transfer assembly (B) on the transmission.
  3. Install the No. 1 propeller shaft (A) to the transfer companion flange (B) by aligning the reference marks (C). Make sure you use new mounting bolts.
  4. Install the transfer breather hose bracket (A) on the transfer assembly, and connect the breather hose (B) over the breather pipe (C) with facing the dot mark (D) to the rear side of the vehicle.
  5. Install exhaust pipe A (see «EXHAUST PIPE AND MUFFLER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mechanical/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system__exhaust-pipe-and-muffler-replacement) ).
  6. Install the front subframe stiffener with new mounting bolts.
  7. Refill the transfer assembly with transfer fluid (hypoid gear oil), if necessary (see «TRANSFER ASSEMBLY FLUID REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  8. Refill the transmission with ATF (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ).
  9. Install the engine undercover.

Transfer Oil Seal Replacement

Special Tools Required

  1. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
  2. Oil Seal Driver Attachment, 65 mm 07JAD-SH3010A
  3. Flange Holder 07XAB-0010101

Note. To prevent damaging the transfer housing, always use wood blocks or equivalent materials between the transfer housing and a bench vise.

Scheme 646

Scheme 646

Scheme 647

Scheme 647

Scheme 648

Scheme 648

Scheme 649

Scheme 649

Scheme 650

Scheme 650

Scheme 651

Scheme 651

Scheme 652

Scheme 652

Scheme 653

Scheme 653

Scheme 654

Scheme 654

Scheme 655

Scheme 655

Scheme 656

Scheme 656

Scheme 657

Scheme 657

Scheme 658

Scheme 658
  1. Remove the transfer assembly (see «TRANSFER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  2. Remove the transfer cover (A) from the transfer housing (B).
  3. Remove the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft assembly (C).
  4. Remove the O-ring (D) from the transfer cover.
  5. Drain the transfer fluid (hypoid gear oil) from the transfer housing.
  6. Using a chisel, cut the lock tab (A) on the locknut (B).
  7. Secure the transfer housing (A) in a bench vise (B) with wood blocks.
  8. Install the flange holder on the companion flange, then loosen the locknut.
  9. Remove the flange holder.
  10. Remove the locknut (A), the conical spring washer (B), the back-up ring (C), the O-ring (D), and the companion flange (E) from the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) (F).
  11. Remove the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) (A) from the transfer housing (B), then remove the thrust washer (C) and the transfer spacer (D) from the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear).
  12. Remove the oil seal (A) from the transfer housing (B).
  13. Install a new oil seal flush with the transfer housing using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 65 mm oil seal driver attachment.
  14. Install the thrust washer (A) and a new transfer spacer (B) on the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) (C) in the direction shown illustration, and install them in the transfer housing (D).
  15. Coat the threads of the locknut and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) with transfer fluid (hypoid gear oil).
  16. Install the companion flange (A). Coat a new O-ring (B) with transfer fluid (hypoid gear oil), then install the O-ring, the back-up ring (C), a new conical spring washer (D), and a new locknut (E) on the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) (F). Install the conical spring washer in the direction shown in illustration.
  17. Secure the transfer housing (A) in a bench vise (B) with wood blocks.
  18. Install the flange holder on the companion flange.
  19. Tighten the locknut while measuring the starting torque of the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) so the starting torque is within 1.15-1.71 N.m (11.7-17.4 kgf.cm, 10.18-15.14 lbf.in). Tighten the locknut to the lower torque specification, then check the starting torque. If the starting torque is low, increase the torque on the locknut until the starting torque is acceptable. Tightening Torque: 108-294 N.m (11.0-30.0 kgf.m, 80-217 lbf.ft) Starting Torque: 1.115-1.71 N.m (11.7-17.4 kgf.cm, 10.18-15.14 lbf.in) NOTE: Rotate the companion flange several turns to seat the tapered roller bearings, then measure the starting torque. If the starting torque exceeds 1.71 N.m (17.4 kgf.cm, 15.14 lbf.in), replace the transfer spacer and reassemble the parts. Do not adjust the torque with the locknut loose. If the tightening torque exceeds 294 N.m (30.0 kgf.m, 217 lbf.ft), replace the transfer spacer and reassemble the parts.
  20. Remove the flange holder.
  21. Stake the locknut into the shaft to a depth (A) at least: 0.7 mm (0.028 in) using a 3.5 mm punch (B). Be careful not to make a crack on the locknut when staking.
  22. Install the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft assembly (A) in the transfer housing (B).
  23. Install a new O-ring (C) on the transfer cover (D), then install the transfer cover on the transfer housing.
  24. Remove the filler plug (A), then refill the transfer assembly with transfer fluid (hypoid gear oil). Use an SAE 90 viscosity hypoid gear oil, API classified GL4 or GL5 only. Viscosity: SAE 90: Above 0°F (-18°C) Transfer Fluid (Hypoid Gear Oil) Capacity: 0.45 L (0.48 US qt)
  25. Install the filler plug with a new sealing washer (B).
  26. Check the transfer gear backlash and the total starting torque (see «TRANSFER GEAR BACKLASH MEASUREMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  27. Install the transfer assembly (see «TRANSFER ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

Transfer Cover Oil Seal Replacement

Special Tools Required

  1. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
  2. Oil Seal Driver Attachment, 65 mm 07JAD-SH3010A

Scheme 659

Scheme 659

Scheme 660

Scheme 660

Scheme 661

Scheme 661

Scheme 662

Scheme 662

Scheme 663

Scheme 663
  1. Remove the transfer assembly (see «TRANSFER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
  2. Remove the transfer cover (A) from the transfer housing (B), then remove the O-ring (C) from the transfer cover.
  3. Remove the oil seal (A) from the transfer cover.
  4. Drain the transfer fluid (hypoid gear oil) from the transfer housing.
  5. Install a new oil seal (A) in the transfer cover (B) to a height (C) of 0-1 mm (0-0.04 in) above the transfer cover surface using the 15 x 135L driver handle and the 65 mm oil seal driver attachment.
  6. Install a new O-ring (A) on the transfer cover (B), then install the transfer cover on the transfer housing (C).
  7. Remove the filler plug (A), then refill the transfer assembly with transfer fluid (hypoid gear oil). Use an SAE 90 viscosity hypoid gear oil, API classified GL4 or GL5 only. Viscosity: SAE 90: Above 0°F (-18°C) Transfer Fluid (Hypoid Gear Oil) Capacity: 0.45 L (0.48 US qt)
  8. Install the filler plug with a new sealing washer (B).
  9. Install the transfer assembly (see «TRANSFER ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

See also:
DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
SUBSTITUTING THE PCM
DTC U0300: PGM-FI SYSTEM AND A/T SYSTEM PROGRAM VERSION MISMATCH
THE COMMUNICATION LINE CHECK
THE INDICATOR DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
APP SENSOR SIGNAL INSPECTION
IF THE MIL DID NOT STAY ON
THROTTLE BODY TEST
THROTTLE BODY REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
VTEC ROCKER ARM TEST
FUEL PRESSURE TEST
DTC P062F: PCM INTERNAL CONTROL MODULE KEEP ALIVE MEMORY (KAM) ERROR
PCM UPDATE
PCM REPLACEMENT
CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX
DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC U0104: F-CAN A MALFUNCTION (PCM-ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL (ACC) UNIT)
DTC U0122: F-CAN A MALFUNCTION (PCM-VSA MODULATOR-CONTROL UNIT)
DTC U0155: F-CAN A MALFUNCTION (PCM-GAUGE CONTROL MODULE)
AIR CLEANER ELEMENT INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT
BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
MAINTENANCE MINDER™
ENGINE REMOVAL
FRONT FENDER TRIM REPLACEMENT
REAR DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
FLUID CHECK/REPLACEMENT
FRONT BULKHEAD COVER REPLACEMENT
STEERING GEARBOX REMOVAL
HUB BEARING UNIT REPLACEMENT
EXHAUST PIPE AND MUFFLER REPLACEMENT
FRONT DRIVESHAFT INSTALLATION
SUBFRAME REPLACEMENT
ENGINE INSTALLATION
HOOD SUPPORT STRUT REPLACEMENT
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
FRONT BUMPER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX
STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL
DRIVER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT
GAUGE CONTROL MODULE REPLACEMENT
SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION
STEERING WHEEL INSTALLATION
DTC'S TROUBLESHOOTING
P062F
P0705
P0706
P0711
P0712
P0713
P0716
P0717
P0722
P0729
P0731
P0732
P0733
P0734
P0735
P0741
P0746
P0747
P0751
P0752
P0756
P0757
P0761
P0762
P0776
P0777
P0796
P0797
P0812
P0842
P0843
P0847
P0848
P084C
P0872
P0873
P0877
P0878
P0962
P0963
P0966
P0967
P0970
P0971
P0973
P0974
P0976
P0977
P0979
P0980
P0989
P0990
P16C0
P1717
P177A
P2714
P2720
P2721
P2821
P2826
P2827
U0029
U0104
U0122
U0155
PADDLE SHIFTER + (UPSHIFT SWITCH) CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
PADDLE SHIFTER - (DOWNSHIFT SWITCH) CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
SHIFT LOCK SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
PRESSURE TEST
ATF REPLACEMENT
ATF LEVEL CHECK
ATF COOLER CLEANING
TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION
SHIFT LEVER KNOB REPLACEMENT
PADDLE SHIFTER REPLACEMENT
SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID REPLACEMENT
COUNTERSHAFT 2ND GEAR AND 5TH GEAR AXIAL CLEARANCE INSPECTION
SECONDARY SHAFT 2ND GEAR AND 5TH GEAR AXIAL CLEARANCE INSPECTION
THIRD SHAFT 6TH GEAR AXIAL CLEARANCE INSPECTION
DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER, FINAL DRIVEN GEAR, AND TRANSFER DRIVE GEAR REPLACEMENT
TRANSFER COVER OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT
TRANSFER OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT