Starting System Acura TL IV

Scheme 1

Symptom Troubleshooting Index

Without Keyless Access System

TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

With Keyless Access System

TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

Scheme 2

Scheme 3

Scheme 4

Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting

Special Tools Required

Alternator, Regulator, Battery&Starter tester OTC3131

Available through the Acura Tool and Equipment

Program 888-424-6857

Without Keyless Access System

Note. Air temperature must be within 59-100°F (15-38°C) during this procedure After the inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM) Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating The battery must be in good condition and fully charged

Scheme 5

Scheme 6

1. Remove the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) )
2. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery&starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing
3. Do the BATTERY TEST Does the display indicate GOOD or GOOD, LOW CHARGE? YES -The battery is OK Charge the battery if necessary, then go to step 4 NO -If the display indicates BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest If the display indicates CHARGE&RETEST, charge the battery, then retest
4. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 on «GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/auxiliary-emission-control-systems/#fuel-and-emissions-systems) )
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II)
6. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the PCM If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) )
7. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS
8. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in N or P, turn the ignition switch to START (III) to crank the engine NOTE: The auto-start function cranks the engine until it starts, or for 15 seconds if the engine does not start Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -The starting system is OK Go to step 16 NO -Go to step 9
9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0)
10. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion Then try cranking the engine again Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem The starting system is OK Go to step 16 NO -Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 11 If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 14 If the starter does not disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key after 15 seconds, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following Starter solenoid and switch malfunction Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
11. Make sure the shift lever is in N or P, then disconnect the connector (A) from the starter S terminal Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal Does the starter crank the engine? YES -Go to step 12 NO -Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), then repair or replace (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) ) it as necessary
12. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit NOTE: After the problem in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 16 A blown STS (7 5 A) fuse in the auxiliary under-dash fuse holder located below the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box A blown No 8 (7 5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box Check for an open or short in the WHT wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the under-hood fuse/relay box Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the PCM Check for an open or short in the BRN wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2 Check for an open or short in the WHT wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between the starter cut relay 2 and the starter Check for an open or short in the YEL wire, LT GRN wire, and connectors between the ignition switch and the PCM Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the PCM, the starter cut relay 1, and the starter cut relay 2 Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2 Check for an open or short in the PNK wire, BLU/WHT wire, and connectors between the starter cut relay 1, the starter cut relay 2, and the transmission range switch Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and body ground (G101) Check for a faulty ignition switch (see «TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/steering-column-switches/#ignition-switch) ) Check for a faulty transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ) Check for a faulty starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2 (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/body-electrical/#relays__power-relay-test) ).
13. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery. NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing
14. Do the STARTING TEST Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8 0 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 375 A? YES -Go to step 15 NO -Replace the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), or remove and disassemble it (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and check for these problems Drag in the starter armature Short in the armature winding Excessive drag in the engine Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in the starter brushes Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear Faulty overrunning clutch
15. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage Replace any damaged parts
16. Select PCM reset (see «IF THE MIL DID NOT STAY ON»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/auxiliary-emission-control-systems/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__if-the-mil-did-not-stay) ) in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS
17. Install the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) )

With Keyless Access System

Special Tools Required

Alternator, Regulator, Battery&Starter tester OTC3131 Available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857

Note. Air temperature must be within 59-100°F (15-38°C) during this procedure After the inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM) Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating The battery must be in good condition and fully charged

Scheme 7

Scheme 8

Scheme 9

Scheme 10

1. Remove the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) )
2. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery&starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing
3. Do the BATTERY TEST Does the display indicate GOOD or GOOD, LOW CHARGE? YES -The battery is OK Charge the battery if necessary, then go to step 4 NO -If the display indicates BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest If the display indicates CHARGE&RETEST, charge the battery, then retest
4. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 on «GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/auxiliary-emission-control-systems/#fuel-and-emissions-systems) )
5. Press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode
6. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the PCM If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) )
7. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS
8. Set the parking brake, then with the clutch pedal pressed (M/T model) or the shifter in N or P (A/T model), and press the brake pedal and press the start/stop button to select the engine START mode to crank the engine NOTE: The auto-start function cranks the engine until it starts, or for 15 seconds if the engine does not start Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -The starting system is OK Go to step 17 NO -Go to step 9
9. Press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode
10. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion Then try cranking the engine again Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem The starting system is OK Go to step 17 NO -Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 11 If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 15 If the starter does not disengage from the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or the torque converter ring gear (A/T model) when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following: Starter solenoid and switch malfunction Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch Damaged flywheel ring gear or torque converter ring gear
11. Make sure the shift lever is in neutral (M/T model) or N or P (A/T model), then disconnect the connector (A) from the starter S terminal Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal Does the starter crank the engine? YES -Go to step 12 (M/T model), or step 13 (A/T model) NO -Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), then repair or replace it as necessary M/T model (see «M/T Model»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) ) A/T model (see «A/T Model»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) )
12. M/T model: Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit NOTE: After the problem in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 17 A blown No 8 (7 5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box Check for an open or short in the WHT wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1, the power control unit, and the under-hood fuse/relay box Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the PCM Check for an open or short in the BRN wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2 Check for an open or short in the WHT wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between the starter cut relay 2 and the starter Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the power control unit and the PCM Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the PCM, the starter cut relay 1 Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between the power control unit, the starter cut relay 2, the clutch pedal position switch A, and the ECM. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the starter cut relay 1 and body ground (G301) Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the starter cut cut relay 1 and the +B cut relay Check for an open or short in the GRY wire and connectors between the starter cut cut relay 2 and the +B cut relay Check for a faulty clutch pedal position switch A (see «Clutch Pedal Position Switch A Test»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) ) Check for faulty +B cut relay (see «HIGH MOUNT BRAKE LIGHT REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exterior-lights/#exterior-lights) )
13. A/T model: Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit NOTE: After the problem in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 17 A blown No 8 (7 5 A) fuse and No 13 (15 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box Check for an open or short in the WHT wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1, the power control unit, and the under-hood fuse/relay box Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the PCM Check for an open or short in the BRN wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2 Check for an open or short in the WHT wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between the starter cut relay 2 and the starter Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the power control unit and the PCM Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the PCM, the starter cut relay 1, and the starter cut relay 2 Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2 Check for an open or short in the PNK wire, BLU/WHT wire, and connectors between the starter cut relay 1, the starter cut relay 2, and the transmission range switch Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and body ground (G101) Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the power control unit, the brake pedal position switch, and the PCM Check for an open or short in the RED wire and connectors between the brake pedal position switch and the under-hood fuse/relay box Check for a faulty transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ) Check for a faulty starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2 (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/body-electrical/#relays__power-relay-test) ) Check for faulty brake pedal position switch (see «HIGH MOUNT BRAKE LIGHT REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exterior-lights/#exterior-lights) )
14. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery and starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery. NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing
15. Do the STARTING TEST Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V (M/T model), 8.0 V (A/T model) and is the current draw less than or equal to 380 A (M/T model) 375 A (A/T model)? YES -Go to step 16 NO -Replace the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), or remove and disassemble it: M/T model (see «M/T Model»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) ) A/T model (see «A/T Model»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) ) and check for these problems Drag in the starter armature Short in the armature winding Excessive drag in the engine Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in the starter brushes Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear Faulty overrunning clutch
16. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) the torque converter ring gear (A/T model) for damage Replace any damaged parts
17. Select PCM reset (see «ECM/PCM RESET»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/auxiliary-emission-control-systems/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__ecmpcm-reset) ) in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS
18. Install the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) )

M/T Model

1. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch A connector (A).
2. Remove the clutch pedal position switch A (B).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch pedal position switch A (see «Clutch Pedal Position Switch A Replacement»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) ) If OK, install the clutch pedal position switch A and adjust the pedal height (see Clutch Pedal, Clutch Pedal Position Switch A, and Clutch Pedal Position under CLUTCH

Scheme 11

1. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch A connector (A).
2. Loosen the locknut (B), then remove the clutch pedal position switch A (C).
3. Install the clutch pedal position switch A and adjust the pedal height (see Clutch Pedal, Clutch Pedal Position Switch A, and Clutch Pedal Position under CLUTCH

Scheme 12

Scheme 13

1. Remove the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) )
2. Do the battery terminal disconnection procedure (see «BATTERY TERMINAL DISCONNECTION AND RECONNECTION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/body-electrical/#battery) )
3. Remove the air intake duct splash separator (see step 4 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) )
4. Remove the harness clamps (A), then disconnect the positive starter cable (B), the motor wire (C), and the S terminal connector (D)
5. Check the hold-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the armature housing (ground) There should be continuity If there is continuity, go to step 6 If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid
6. Check the pull-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the M terminal There should be continuity If there is continuity, the solenoid is OK If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid
7. Install the wire and the connector in the reverse order of removal
8. Do the battery terminal reconnection procedure (see «BATTERY TERMINAL DISCONNECTION AND RECONNECTION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/body-electrical/#battery) )
9. Install the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) )

Scheme 14

Scheme 15

Scheme 16

Scheme 17

1. Remove the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) )
2. Remove the starter (see «Starter Removal and Installation»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) )
3. Clamp the starter firmly in a vise
4. Disconnect the motor wire from the M terminal
5. Make the connections for this test using the thickest (gauge) wire possible (preferably the same gauge as used on the vehicle) NOTE: To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 5 seconds
6. Connect the battery as shown Make sure you disconnect the starter motor wire from the M terminal If the starter pinion moves out, it is working properly
7. Disconnect the battery from the M terminal If the pinion does not retract, the hold-in coil of the solenoid is working properly
8. Disconnect the battery from the starter body as shown If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working properly
9. Reconnect the motor wire to the M terminal
10. Connect the starter to the battery as shown, and confirm that the motor runs
11. If the electric current meets the specification when the battery voltage is at 11 5 V, the starter is working properly Specification Electric Current: 80 A (M/T model)/ 90 A (A/T model) or less
12. Install the starter (see «Installation»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) )
13. Install the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) )

Scheme 18

Scheme 19

1. Remove the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) )
2. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/body-electrical/#battery) )
3. Remove the battery base (see step 7 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) )
4. Remove the air intake duct splash separator (see step 4 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) )
5. Remove the harness clamp (A)
6. Disconnect the positive starter cable (B) and the S terminal connector (C)
7. Remove the upper radiator hose bracket (D) and the dipstick (E)
8. Remove the two bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter

Scheme 20

Scheme 21

1. Install the starter, then tighten the mounting bolts (A) NOTE: Always use a new gasket (A/T model)
2. A/T model: Install the upper radiator hose bracket (B) and the dipstick (C)
3. Connect the positive starter cable (D) and the S terminal connector (E) Make sure the crimped side of the ring terminal faces away from the starter when you connect it
4. Install the harness clamp (F)
5. Install the air intake duct splash separator (see step 63 on «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation__engine-installation) )
6. Install the battery base (see step 60 on «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation__engine-installation) )
7. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/body-electrical/#battery) )
8. Start the engine to make sure the starter works properly
9. Install the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) )

Scheme 22

Brush Holder Removal

Note. Refer to Exploded View Of Starter if needed during this procedure.

Scheme 23

Scheme 24

Scheme 25

Scheme 26

Scheme 27

Scheme 28

Scheme 29

Scheme 30

Scheme 31

Scheme 32

Scheme 33

Scheme 34

1. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) )
2. Disconnect the motor wire from M terminal (see step 4 on «STARTER SOLENOID TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and remove the end cover
3. Remove the brush holder (A) Armature Inspection and Test
4. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet If there is wear or damage, replace the armature
5. Check the commutator (A) surface If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 8, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B)
6. Check the commutator diameter with a digital caliper or dial type caliper. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature Commutator Diameter Standard (New) 28.0-28.1 mm (1.102-1.106 in) Service Limit 27.5 mm (1.08 in)
7. Measure the commutator (A) runout If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature Commutator Runout Standard (New) 0 02 mm (0 001 in) max Service Limit 0 05 mm (0 002 in)
8. Use a digital caliper or dial type caliper to check the mica depth (A) If the mica depth is below the service limit, replace the armature Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New) 0.4-0.5 mm (0.16-0.20 in) Service Limit 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
9. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the segments of the commutator If there is an open circuit between any segments, replace the armature
10. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B) Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core If the blade is attracted to the core while the core is turned, the armature is shorted Replace the armature
11. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and the armature shaft (C) If there is continuity, replace the armature Overrunning Clutch Inspection Starter Brush Inspection
12. Remove the brush holder cap (A) then remove the brushes (B)
13. Measure the brush length If it is shorter than the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly Brush Length Standard (New) 15.8-16.2 mm (0.62-0.64 in) Service Limit 11.0 mm (0.43 in) Starter Brush Holder Test
14. Check for continuity between the brushes (A) and brushes (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly.
15. Slide the overrunning clutch along the shaft. Replace it if it does not slide smoothly.
16. Rotate the overrunning clutch (A) both ways. If it does not lock in either direction, or it locks in both directions, replace it
17. If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly, the gear is not available separately Check the condition of the flysheel ring gear to see if the teeth are damaged
18. Install the armature in the housing
19. Set the brushes with the brush spring in the brush holder (A).
20. Place the brush holder assembly on the armature, then move the brush holder down to the armature NOTE: Keep the brush holder on the armature so the brushes do not come out of the brush holder
21. Install the end cover (A) to retain the brush holder (B).
22. Install the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) )

Scheme 35

Brush Holder Removal

Note. Refer to Exploded View Of Starter if needed during this procedure.

Scheme 36

Scheme 37

Scheme 38

Scheme 39

Scheme 40

Scheme 41

Scheme 42

Scheme 43

Scheme 44

Scheme 45

Scheme 46

Scheme 47

1. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) )
2. Disconnect the motor wire from M terminal (see step 4 on «STARTER SOLENOID TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and remove the end cover
3. Pry back each brush spring with a screwdriver, then position the brush on the brush holder about halfway out of its holder Release the spring to hold it in place
4. Remove the brush holder assembly (A) Armature Inspection and Test
5. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet If there is wear or damage, replace the armature
6. Check the commutator (A) surface If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 8, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B)
7. Check the commutator diameter If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature Commutator Diameter Standard (New) 28 9-29 0 mm (1 138-1 142 in) Service Limit 28 0 mm (1 102 in)
8. Measure the commutator (A) runout If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature Commutator Runout Standard (New) 0 02 mm (0 0008 in) max Service Limit 0 05 mm (0 002 in)
9. Use a digital caliper or dial type caliper to check the mica depth (A) If the mica is is below the service limit, replace the armature Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New) 0 50-0 90 mm (0 020-0 035 in) Service Limit 0 20 mm (0 008 in)
10. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the segments of the commutator If there is an open circuit between any segments, replace the armature
11. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B) Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates while the core is turned, the armature is shorted Replace the armature
12. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and the armature shaft (C) If there is continuity, replace the armature Overrunning Clutch Inspection
13. Measure the brush length If it is shorter than the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly Brush Length Standard (New) 15.0-16.0 mm (0 59-0.63 in) Service Limit 9 0 mm (0.35 in)
14. Check for continuity between the (+) brush holders (A) and the (-) brush holders (B) If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly
15. Insert the brush (A) into the brush holder, and bring the brush into contact with the commutator, then attach a spring scale (B) to the spring (C) Measure the spring tension at the moment the spring lifts off the brush If it is not within the standard, replace the brush holder assembly Spring Tension Standard (New) 22.26-27.26 N (2 27-2 78 kgf, 5.00-6.13 lbf)
16. Check the planetary gears (A) and the internal ring gear (B) Replace them if they are worn or damaged
17. Slide the overrunning clutch (A) along the shaft Replace it if it does not slide smoothly
18. Hold the overrunning clutch (A), and turn the drive gear (B) in the direction shown to make sure it turns freely Also make sure the drive gear locks in the opposite direction If it does not lock, replace the overrunning clutch assembly
19. If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly, the gear is not available separately Check the condition of the torque converter ring gear Replace it if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged
20. Pry back each brush spring with a screwdriver, then position the brush on the brush holder about halfway out of its holder Release the spring to hold it in place NOTE: To seat the new brushes Slip a strip of # 500 or # 600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and the each brush, and smoothly turn the armature The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator
21. Install the armature housing (A) and the armature (B) by aligning the slotted point (C) to the projection (D)
22. Install the brush holder assembly Next pry back each brush spring again, and push each brush down until it seats against the commutator, then release the spring against the end of the brush
23. Install the end cover to retain the brush holder
24. Install the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/starter/#starting-system) )

See also:
• GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
• POWER RELAY TEST
• BATTERY TEST
• TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST
• TEST
• ENGINE DOES NOT START WITH THE IMMOBILIZER KEY
• FUEL PRESSURE TEST
• FUEL LINE INSPECTION
• THROTTLE BODY TEST
• ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION
• ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION
• GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
• SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
• THE ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START WITH KEYLESS ACCESS
• HIGH MOUNT BRAKE LIGHT REPLACEMENT
• ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT
• DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
• IF THE MIL DID NOT STAY ON
• ECM/PCM RESET
• ENGINE REMOVAL
• ENGINE INSTALLATION
• STARTER SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
• STARTER OVERHAUL