Scheme 1
Symptom Troubleshooting Index
| Symptom | Diagnostic procedure | Also check for |
|---|---|---|
| Engine does not start (does not crank) | Check for loose battery terminals or connections. Test the battery for a low charge (see BATTERY TEST ). Check the starter (see STARTER SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ). Check starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2 (see POWER RELAY TEST ). Check the transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST ). Check the ignition switch or wire (see TEST ). | Poor ground at G1, G2, G101, G102 |
| Engine cranks, but does not start | Check for PGM-FI DTCs. Check the fuel pressure (see FUEL PRESSURE TEST ). Check for a plugged or damaged fuel line (see FUEL LINE INSPECTION ). Check for a plugged fuel filter (see FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR REPLACEMENT ). Check the throttle body (see THROTTLE BODY TEST ). Check for low engine compression (see ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION ). Check for a damaged or broken timing belt. | |
| Engine is hard to start | Check for PGM-FI DTCs. Check the fuel pressure (see FUEL PRESSURE TEST ). Check for a plugged or damaged fuel line (see FUEL LINE INSPECTION ). Check for a plugged fuel filter (see FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR REPLACEMENT ). | |
| Engine cranks slowly | Check for loose battery terminals or connections. Test the battery for a low charge (see BATTERY TEST ). Check the starter for binding (see STARTER OVERHAUL ). Check for excessive drag in the engine. | |
| Multi-information display warning CHECK STARTING SYSTEM | Check for PGM-FI DTCs (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). |
SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX
Scheme 2
Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting
Note. Air temperature must be between 59 and 100°F (15 and 38°C) during this procedure. After this inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from functioning. The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
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- Remove the battery trim (see step 2 under «UPPER FENDER TRIM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__upper-fender-trim-replacement) ).
- Hook up the following equipment: Ammeter, 0-400 A Voltmeter, 0-20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt)
- Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 under «HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM)»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/auxiliary-emission-control-systems/#fuel-and-emissions-systems) ).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
- Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in the N or P position, turn the ignition switch to START (III). Did the starter crank the engine normally? YES -The starting system is OK. Go to step 12 . NO -Go to step 6.
- Check the battery condition. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again. Did the starter crank the engine? YES -Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 12 . NO -Check these items: If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 7. If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 9 . If the starter does not disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter or remove it, and check for the following: Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
- Make sure the shift lever is in the N or P position, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire from the starter solenoid S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal. Did the starter crank the engine? YES -Go to step 8. NO -Remove the starter, and repair or replace it as necessary.
- Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit: NOTE: After the open circuit or high resistance in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 12 . The WHT wire and connectors between the auxiliary under-dash relay holder and the under-hood fuse/relay box. The RED wire and connectors between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the auxiliary under-dash relay holder. The RED wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter. The ignition switch (see «TEST»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/ignition-switchsteering-lock/#ignition-switch__test) ). The transmission range switch and connector (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2 (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/body-electrical/#relays__power-relay-test) ).
- While cranking the engine, check the cranking voltage and the current draw. Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 7.7 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 400 A? YES -Go to step 10. NO -Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following: Drag in the starter armature Shorted armature winding Excessive drag in the engine
- Check the engine speed while cranking the engine. Is the engine speed above 100 rpm? YES -Go to step 11. NO -Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check the following until you find the problem: Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in the starter brushes Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear Faulty drive gear clutch
- Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
- Select PCM reset (see «PCM RESET»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/auxiliary-emission-control-systems/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__pcm-reset) ) to cancel ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
- Reinstall the battery trim (see step 2 under «UPPER FENDER TRIM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__upper-fender-trim-replacement) ).
Scheme 5
- Make sure you have anti-theft codes for the audio system and navigation system. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.
- Remove the battery trim (see step 2 under «UPPER FENDER TRIM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__upper-fender-trim-replacement) ).
- Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
- Disconnect the starter cable (A), BLK/WHT wire (B), and motor cable (C).
- Check the hold-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the armature housing (ground) (D). There should be continuity. If there is continuity, go to step 6. If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid.
- Check the pull-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the M terminal. There should be continuity. If there is continuity, the solenoid is OK. If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid.
- Reconnect the starter cable, BLK/WHT wire, and motor cable.
- Connect the negative cable to the battery.
- Install the battery trim (see step 2 under «UPPER FENDER TRIM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__upper-fender-trim-replacement) ).
- Do the steering column position memorization procedure (see «STEERING COLUMN POSITION MEMORIZATION»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system-electronic-power-steering-system__steering-column-position-memorization) ).
- Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system and the navigation system.
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- Disconnect the wire from the M terminal.
- Make a connection for this test using the thickest (gauge) wire possible (preferably the same gauge as used on the vehicle). NOTE: To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds.
- Connect the battery as shown. Make sure you disconnect the starter motor wire from the solenoid. If the starter pinion moves out, it is working properly.
- Disconnect the battery from the M terminal. If the pinion does not retract, the hold-in coil of the solenoid is working properly.
- Disconnect the battery from the starter body. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working properly.
- Firmly clamp the starter in a vise.
- Reconnect the wire to the M terminal.
- Connect the starter to the battery as shown in the diagram, and check that the motor turns and keeps rotating.
- If the electric current meets the specification when the battery voltage is at 11 V, the starter is working properly. Specification Electric Current: 90 A or less
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- Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system and navigation system. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.
- Remove the battery trim (see step 2 under «UPPER FENDER TRIM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__upper-fender-trim-replacement) ).
- Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
- Remove the engine cover.
- Remove the vacuum hose (A) and transmission dipstick (B).
- Remove the harness clamp (A).
- Disconnect the starter cable (B) from the B terminal, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (C) from the S terminal.
- Remove the two bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter.
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- Install the starter (A) using a new gasket (B), then install the harness clamp (C), and connect the B terminal (D) and BLK/WHT wire (E). Make sure the crimped side of the B terminal faces away from the starter when you connect it.
- Install the vacuum hose (A) and transmission dipstick (B).
- Install the engine cover.
- Connect the negative cable to the battery.
- Install the battery trim (see step 2 under «UPPER FENDER TRIM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__upper-fender-trim-replacement) ).
- Start the engine to make sure the starter works properly.
- Do the steering column position memorization procedure (see «STEERING COLUMN POSITION MEMORIZATION»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system-electronic-power-steering-system__steering-column-position-memorization) ).
- Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system and the navigation system.
Scheme 16
Brush Holder Removal
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- Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/starter/#starting-system) ).
- Disconnect the wire from the M terminal, and remove the end cover.
- Place a plastic pipe with an outside diameter of 29.4 mm (1.16 in.) on the armature.
- Move the brush holder (A) up to the pipe (B) while holding the pipe so the brushes do not pop out from the holder. Armature Inspection and Test
- Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure.
- Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
- Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 8, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).
- Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is out of the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (New): 29.3-29.5 mm (1.154-1.161 in.) Service Limit: 28.8 mm (1.134 in.)
- Measure the commutator (A) runout. If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Runout Standard (New): 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.1 mm (0.004 in.)
- Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C) between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or V-shaped (D). Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New): 0.40-0.50 mm (0.016-0.020 in.) Service Limit: 0.20 mm (0.008 in.)
- Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is an open circuit between any segments, replace the armature.
- Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attached to the core or vibrates while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
- Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and the armature shaft (C). If there is continuity, replace the armature. Starter Brush Inspection
- Measure the brush length (A). If it is shorter than the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Length Standard (New): 7.7-8.0 mm (0.30-0.31 in.) Service Limit: 0.9 mm (0.04 in.) Starter Brush Holder Test
- Check for continuity between the (+) brush (A) and (-) brush (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. Planetary Gear Inspection
- Check the planetary gears (A) and ring gear (B). Replace them if they are worn or damaged. Overrunning Clutch Inspection
- Slide the overrunning clutch along the shaft. Replace it if it does not slide smoothly.
- Rotate the overrunning clutch (A) in both directions. It should lock and move upward in one direction and rotate smoothly in the other direction. If it does not lock in either direction, or if it locks both directions, then replace it.
- If the starter drive gear (B) is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. Check the condition of the idler gear and drive plate ring gear to see if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged. Starter Reassembly
- Install the armature into the housing.
- Place the brush holder assembly on the armature, then move the brush holder (A) down to the armature.
- Install the end cover to retain the brush holder.
See also:
• BATTERY TEST
• POWER RELAY TEST
• TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST
• TEST
• FUEL PRESSURE TEST
• FUEL LINE INSPECTION
• FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR REPLACEMENT
• THROTTLE BODY TEST
• ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION
• GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
• UPPER FENDER TRIM REPLACEMENT
• PCM RESET
• STEERING COLUMN POSITION MEMORIZATION
• STARTER SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
• STARTER OVERHAUL